spirits and bartenders' pictorials Originally published in 2022-07-06
Sogden's first release in 30 years
Pioneer Calvados oak barrels open a new chapter in flavour
Recently, Diageo 's classic single malt whiskey brand The Singleton released the new high-year work of "Fengwei Zhenzang Series" - Sogden 30 years single malt whiskey barrel original wine . This wine is not only the highest vintage of the Sogden "Fengwei Zhenzang Series", but also a rare original barrel strength wine that has been re-ripe for French Calvados oak barrels.
In the past, we have introduced American-style apple brandy (Luo Dayou Column | How to use apple brandy applejack in cocktails?), let’s talk about Calvados Calvados , which is an apple (or pear) produced in specific regions of France, brandy .
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Once replaced Cognac 's status
Many people have a misunderstanding about brandy: they believe that only wine that is fermented and distilled after grapes can be called brandy.
But in fact, the fruit raw materials of brandy are not limited to grapes, apples and pears are also common in brandy. Whenever these two kinds of fruit raw materials are mentioned, we have to mention Calvados (Calvados) .
What is Calvados?
Calvados is a brandy made of apples or pears as raw materials.
In the Normandy region of France, about 7,500 hectares of land are used to grow apples or pears, specifically used to produce this brandy. Although most orchards are concentrated in , , in the neighboring areas, such as Manchester, Ome and other places, you can also see large orchards.
Since it is a brandy from France and the production areas are relatively concentrated, it is not difficult to imagine that Calvados and Cognac, like Yawenyi , also have the saying of origin control naming system (AOC) .
Generally, Calvados has three control of origin naming systems (AOC) , which are used to indicate the geographical area where these apple brandy are located and the brewing techniques used.
Among all kinds of AOCs in Calvados, the more famous one is Aoji area Calvados apple brandy legal production area (AOC Calvados Pays d'Auge).
AOC Calvados Pays d'Auge
accounts for about 1/4 of the total output of Calvados
· Apple can only collect
· It is brewed by the traditional copper distiller
·Composite distillation method.
· After distillation, it must be aged in oak barrel for at least two years.
If the reference proportion is taken, there are more (Aire AOC Calvados) (Aire AOC Calvados) , accounting for 74% of the total output.
Aire AOC Calvados
· Apples and pears come from the Lower Normandy region
· It must be distilled in a column still
· Aged in oak barrels for at least two years
, and the last one is the legal area of pocket-type production - DumVronte Calvados Apple Brandy (Aire AOC Calvados Donfrontais) , accounting for only about 1% of the total output.
Aire AOC Calvados Donfrontaish
· The apples and pears used must be produced from relatively humid granite land in the Dumfurontai area.
· Distilled cider contains at least 30% pear
· It is necessary to use a column still to continuously distillate
· After filling, aged in oak barrels for at least three years
In addition, Calvados can blend ciders and varieties of different vintages to finally form a bottle. Sometimes Calvados marks the year on the wine label, and if you see the words "millésime" on the wine label, it means that the ingredients in the wine version are harvested in a single year.
Calvados
The apple manor that appeared for the production of cider (Cider) can be traced back to around the eighth century AD, but it was not until 1553 that cider distillation began to appear in Normandy.
Because the area used for distilling cider has a rocky coastline in the area - Les Rochers du Calvados, this brandy is also called Calvados (Calvados) .
Since the 17th century, Calvados's fate has been truly tortuous and bizarre.
During the reign of Louis XIV , he not only imposed strict restrictions on apple brandy, but also imposed heavy taxes. At this time, grape brandy, which was not affected by this ban, quickly occupied the market. It was not until the end of 's French Revolution that Apple Brandy was able to breathe a little relieved. Unfortunately, Apple Brandy was no longer a rival to Cognac at this time.
Although it missed the golden period of its initial development, a grape phylloxera disaster that broke out in the late 19th century made cognac a scarce resource. At this time, Calvados was not affected because it did not use grapes as raw materials. At this time, Calvados began to be seen by people and even once became the first choice for brandy, and its popularity became thus opened.
However, the outbreak of in the war with caused a large area of apple orchards in the Normandy area to be destroyed, and at this time people had no time to take care of apple brandy. The country almost monopolized the market for apple brandy, and Calvados' production also stagnated.
It was not time for Calvados to resume production after World War I. Then World II broke out. Normandy, as the strategic core area of the Allies, production of Apple Manor and Calvados was once again frustrated.
But at the same time, because of the need to meet the needs of the frontline, more estates and wineries were established in the Calvados region. After the war, people reorganized the apple orchards and innovated the equipment. Calvados gradually regained its previous vitality and became one of the important spirits in the world today.
Drinking
Calvados can provide surprisingly different flavors, after all, there are over 200 apple varieties and more than 130 different types of pears that can be used to make Calvados.
In addition to the raw materials, different distillation methods have also greatly increased the flavor diversity of Calvados. Typically, single distillation will usually retain more fruity flavor of cider, while double distillation will remove the fruity flavor of apples to get a higher flavor complexity of . Since the distillate is not as strong as it is, the oak barrels have a great impact on Calvados during the aging process.
On the other hand, as the ripening year increases, the taste of leather and spices will gradually appear, bringing complexity and depth to the wine . Therefore, although most people only require two to three years of aging of Calvados, many wine merchants often make it mature in oak barrels longer.
Calvados is usually consumed as an after-meal wine at room temperature, and occasionally a guest appearance as a pre-meal wine. Nowadays, the rise of cocktails, Calvados often appears as a base wine. The way other spirits are tasting also affects Calvados. For example, adding a small amount of water to the wine has gradually become a popular way.
In fact, Calvados has a more traditional way of drinking. In the end, we will return to the "practical level" and let's take a look at what other few-known ways to drink Calvados!
Trou Normand
"Trou Normand" is a traditional way of drinking Calvados during meals. It is generally served between two main dishes in a big meal. It is said that its purpose is to help digest and arouse appetite.
Café-Calva
Café-Calva is a tradition of coffee culture in the 19th century and was once very popular. Café-Calva is a typical civilian drink, often served with espresso . Then people add a small drop of Calvados to their coffee as a substitute for sugar.
Every time I take a sip of coffee, I will use Calvados to "continue" until Calvados uses up. Although this tradition has gradually disappeared now, it can be found in some places occasionally.
Canard
Canard is the way to dip square sugar in a cup of Calvados. After adding sugar to absorb Calvados wine, put it in again. In fact, this method is not only seen in Calvados, but can also be used when drinking coffee. This method is said to be originally intended to make children better adapt to bitter herbs.
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The Independent 2022 French
Best Apple Brandy Calvados
At present, there are about 300 wineries in Normandy that produce this spirit, many of which have a long history and retain traditional craftsmanship, but there are also some new brands, such as Avallen, who hope to change the status quo.
Recently, the British Independent website released the 2022 Best Calvados list. Based on the flavour, depth, cost-effectiveness and other factors, we have recommended ten wines for Apple brandy "newbies" or veteran enthusiasts. Let's enjoy it together! Maybe I really have a chance to drink it in the future...
comprehensive best
Avallen Calvados
Avallen Calvados
0%ABV | 70cl | 9/10 points
Reference price: £34.99
This wine version is described as "environmental apple brandy". Its entire production process, from zero pesticide orchard to labels made of discarded pulp, achieves sustainable development as much as possible. For every bottle of wine sold, the brand will donate to the Bumblebee Conservation Trust charitable foundation and even promise to plant 10,000 flowering plants within three years.
This is an approachable and very delicious apple brandy, featuring 40 different varieties from 300 orchards in the heart of Manche, Normandy, featuring floral, fruity and fresh texture. Bottled in French oak barrels for two years and smells very mature, with a little pepper and cinnamon .
Best Silver Winner
Château du Breuil Calvados Pays d'Auge 15 ans
1%ABV | 70cl | 9/10 minutes
Reference price: £68.25
Open this bottle of wax sealed apple brandy itself has a sense of ritual. The wine won the Silver Award in the World Calvados Awards and the Gold Award in the IWSC International Wine and Spirits Competition. Among the raw wines used to blend, the youngest wine is 15 years old.
wine exudes a fresh and rich fruity aroma, with a significant apple flavor, followed by a little chocolate, cinnamon spice and almonds, with a slightly dry and astringent aftertaste.
Best long aftertaste
Calvados Morin 20 ans Pays d'Auge XO
2%ABV | 70cl | 9/10 points
Reference price: £93.06
Wine style comes from Morin, one of the ancient producers in Normandy, and has been aged for at least 20 years. If this price makes you hesitate, try the 15 and 10 years of the series, about £60.
This XO apple brandy has the charming atmosphere of roasted apples, vanilla , gingerbread and flower clusters, mixed with a little sweetness of fudge, and the afterglow is long and fresh, which is pleasing.
Best quality
Boulard XO Auguste Calvados Pays d'Auge
0%ABV | 70cl | 8/10 points
Reference price: £149.99
Wine style name to brand founder Pierre Auguste pays tribute to him, who established the winery in 1825.
This is a waste, hospitality and indulgence. The surging fruity aroma bursts into the mouth, from apples, candied fruit to almonds, gingerbreads, and a little oak and vanilla embellish them. It tastes mellow and silky like velvet. This wine is delicious from beginning to end and is worth buying at a high price.
Best blended with pears
Calvados Domfrontais Hors d'Age Domaine Pacory
2%ABV | 70cl | 8/10 points
Reference price: £39.95
Family-style business winery Domaine Pacory cultivates about 20 kinds of apples and more than 50 pears. To reflect its orchard terroir, this secondary distilled Calvados is made from a blend of 30% apples and 70% pears.
wine retains a beautiful fruity aroma, with a little sweetness, is based on pears, mixed with butter toast and spices, the quality is excellent and the price is beautiful.
Best drink with ice
Domaine Dupont VSOP Calvados
2%ABV | 70cl | 8/10 minutes
Reference price: £50.45
Dupont family (Dupont) has been producing Calvados and cider since 1887 and owns more than 30 acres of orchards. The winery uses apples produced in chalk soil in the Aoji region. Although they are not big, they have a strong taste. After secondary distillation, they are aged in oak barrels for 2 to 40 years.
This VSOP Calvados has been aged for five years, with a soft, round texture and a light spice flavor. It is mixed with a little leathery flavor in a little cream cake , oak, vanilla and fudge. It is recommended to drink directly at room temperature, adding ice or a drop of water is also very good.
Best bright fruity
Calvados Michel Huard Hors d'Age
0%ABV | 70cl | 8/10 minutes
Reference price: £52.95
wine style is made of original wine of three different years. After ten years of ageing, it has a little pepper in the afterglow.
Take a deep breath, this Calvados seems to be freshly baked apple pie , which combines the flavors of vanilla, almonds, salted caramel, a little trees and green apple , with a spicy and graceful taste.
Best Cocktail Base Wine
Christian Drouin XO Ccalvados Pays d'Auge
0%ABV | 70cl | 7/10 minutes
Reference price: £70
After double distillation by a copper still, it is then aged in Bordeaux barrels, Sherry barrels and cognac barrels. The wine has a bitter and sweet atmosphere.
The ripe apple aroma is intertwined with the flavors of citrus, gingerbread, apricots and raisins, making it perfect for pure drinks, but its beautiful fruity flavor also means that it will perform very well as a cocktail base.
Best pairing cheese
Berneroy VSOP Calvados
0%ABV | 70cl | 7/10 points
Reference price: £33.75
This Calvados in Limousin Oak Barrel (Limousin) Oak) has been aged for 8 years. Compared with the wines of the same age, it has a very eye-catching performance and a stunning fruity flavor.
wine style has the sweetness of roasted apples, intertwined with the flavor of a little wood and butter biscuits, and the taste is oily and full, and it is a treat with blue cheese.
Best value for money
Père Magloire Calvados Pays d'Auge VSOP
0%ABV | 70cl | 7/10 minutes
Reference price: £22.49
This VSOP uses apples from the Aoji region. After two distillations and aged in oak barrels for at least 4 years, then mixed and bottled.
wine has a bright floral fragrance, a light fragrance of roses and jasmine, and combines rich honey, vanilla, hazelnut and butterscotton, which is very cost-effective.
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