引言
The people regard food as the heaven, and eating has always been a matter of great importance to the Chinese. With the continuous development of history, food and cooking technology has also been continuously improved. In the Song Dynasty, the economy was prosperous, the products were abundant, and the transportation was convenient. , The catering industry reached a peak, the Northern Song Dynasty Kaifeng House " collects the treasures of the four seas, all belong to the city, the peculiar smell of Huihuan District, is in 庖厨", which fully demonstrates the prosperous scene of the catering industry in the Song Dynasty, rich products The superb cooking skills made Song people's mouths more and more difficult, and the picky of diners also forced the taste of ingredients to meet the general requirements of the public. The two fell in love with each other and jointly promoted the flourishing development of the catering industry in the Song Dynasty
宋朝’s food culture has developed rapidly and is very characteristic
- The development of agriculture is the prerequisite for the prosperity of the diet in the Song Dynasty. Reclamation is Yongye ", which greatly increased the enthusiasm of farmers to work. In the second year of Taoism (996), the country's arable land area was more than 3.12 million hectares, and by the fifth year of Tianxi (1021), this number increased To more than 5.24 million hectares, "Song History" says: " Guzhipin Seven, one is millet, two is rice, three is wheat, four is millet, five is 穄, six is sun, and seven is miscellaneous " also reflects the variety of food crops in the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the emergence of new tools such as plows and rice paddies and the promotion of Champa rice. These measures all contributed to the substantial increase in crop yields and contributed to the diet of the Song Dynasty. The development of culture laid the material foundation
Song dynasty farmer working scene
- The characteristics of Song Dynasty food culture
The biggest difference of Song Dynasty food culture compared with the previous generation is three The popularity of the meal system. Before the Song Dynasty, Chinese people generally had a two-meal system. Thanks to the development of the Song Dynasty commodity economy and the abolition of the curfew policy, people’s living time was greatly extended. The three-meal system was accepted by more and more people in the Southern Song Dynasty. Yao Mian said in "Jianjingtuyuanshu" that "maybe the old store should be opened newly, three meals a day should fill the hungry" is proof of this.
Another major feature is the meal, in the early Tang Dynasty In the society, the divided meal system is popular. People sit on the floor and eat at a single table. In the Song Dynasty, with the improvement of Song Dynasty cooking skills and the popularization of high tables and chairs, Song people became more and more accustomed to shared meals. The complete form of various dishes stimulates people’s appetite. This way of eating has dominated the mainstream in the Song Dynasty and has been spread to this day.
宋朝的合饭制
Song Dynasty people value it very much. Food freshness and hygiene
The popularity of the three-meal system and the co-meal system makes Song people have a better understanding of the freshness and hygiene standards of food A more stringent requirement
Song people’s pursuit of fresh food is very fanatical. This phenomenon is recorded in the "Meng Liang Lu". Every year in the early summer, a vegetable called eggplant is sold on the market every year. A pair of coins worth more than a dozen coins, in order to be able to eat fresh eggplant, the dignitaries in the city have increased the price to buy, " is not worth it, only to enjoy the new ear "
Song Dynasty food is already very good Pay attention to the season. It is the general consensus of the Song people to use the freshest ingredients of the season. For example, puffer fish
Su Dongpo was conquered by this delicious ingredient. He wrote "蒌波斯满地芦芽Short, it is the time when the puffer fish wants to go up ", it is the most suitable season for catching puffer fish --- late spring, after the Spring Festival every year, Jiangyin, Jiangsu is the first place to catch puffer fish. Selling one thousand wen, by February, the price of puffer fish dropped to one hundred wen. After only a dozen days, the price difference between the two was ten times, indicating that the principle of freshness determining market value also applies to the Song Dynasty
Southern Song Dynasty power minister Jia Sidao likes to eat bream. His subordinates specially built a large boat. Thousands of fish can be raised in the boat. The water from outside the boat is continuously filled into the boat by mechanical devices to keep the bream fish. Active, so that the bream will not die due to lack of oxygen in the ship, and then transported to Lin'an for Jia Sidao to enjoy. Although this local tyrant style method is very extravagant, it is not worth promoting, but from itWe can see to what extent the Song people’s pursuit of fresh ingredients has reached
鳊鱼
The catering industry in the Song Dynasty attaches great importance to the hygiene of food, in the dining environment and the hygiene of the employees. The cleaning of eating utensils and other aspects are very well done
The dining environment of the Song Dynasty Metropolis Hotel is very elegant. There are many garden-style restaurants in Kaifeng City in the Northern Song Dynasty. There are pavilions and pavilions, planting flowers and plants, and some houses. Fishing windows, ponds, painting boats and other ancillary landscapes are like a natural world in the city. The environment is extremely comfortable. After the Southern Song court moved to Lin'an, someone built a hotel similar to the "Fanlou" in Kaifeng by the West Lake, named " "Fengle Tower", you can enjoy the beautiful scenery of West Lake when you climb the building, "Chunyou Lin'an Zhi" says " According to the meeting of the West Lake, a chain of thousands of peaks, a vast expanse of green, Liuting Huawu, between the hurdles of the calendar, and you can travel around the boat, 棹Oodi sings, often downstairs, in order to visit the most ", such a wonderful dining environment, modern five-star hotels are no more than that
Song Dynasty even has a special meal for the government and large families The four departments and six bureaus are collectively referred to as the four divisions and six bureaus. The four divisions are the account design division, the tea and wine division, the kitchen division, and the table and pan division. The six divisions are the fruit bureau, the preserves bureau, the vegetable and vegetable bureau, the oil candle bureau, the aroma medicine bureau, and the arrangement bureau. , From the name of the six bureaus, you can roughly guess what they do. Among them, the scheduling bureau is responsible for the placement, cleaning, decoration and flower arrangement of the restaurant tables and chairs. It can be seen that the sanitation service of the catering industry at that time has been It’s quite professional.
Not only big restaurants pay attention to hygiene, but the street vendors also pay attention to personal hygiene. According to "Tokyo Dream Hualu", the people who sell food in Kaifeng " in the Northern Song Dynasty sell fresh dishes.合器", in the Shanghetu on Qingming Festival, you can also see vendors dressed in white clothes and carrying clean white porcelain jars selling along the street. Song Wang Mingqing recorded the situation of a tea stall next to Fanlou: 很潇洒Clean, all of the same product, utensils, chairs and tables, they are all in good condition, so selling tea is extremely high , an ordinary tea stand is so delicate, you don’t have to worry about food safety if you want to eat in the Song Dynasty
Now的开封樊楼
Songren's method of storing food
In order to ensure the freshness and hygiene of food to the greatest extent, Songren adopts many methods of storing food, mainly divided into two types
- 鲜制型
The most common storage method is cellar storage. This storage method is easy to operate, has a large capacity, and is suitable for storing grain and vegetable food. It is the most traditional storage method in ancient China, and it was also in the Song Dynasty. No exception, "追家 During the good harvest, there are all cellars and food "
and cold storage, my country's cold storage technology can be traced back to the pre-Qin period. "Zhou Li·Ling Ren" records: " Ling Ren, palm ice... offering sacrifices to the ice. "Bingjian is a kind of bronze ware used to refrigerate food. In the Song Dynasty, refrigeration technology has been further developed. People use natural ice and snow or low-temperature well water for refrigeration. Every summer, live fish in Suzhou area use ice. Stored in blocks of cold storage, "Wu Junzhi" says: " Everyone started to store ice, but they were raised on ice, and the fish was unbeaten. "
Like ice, snow also has the function of low-temperature refrigeration, and it is generally used. To refrigerate fruits, such as green plums, water chestnuts, loquats, grapes, oranges, etc., Su Shi said "拉雪水沉藏果不坏", ice and snow are used to store food for a longer period of time, if it is For short-term storage, you can also use the well water. At that time, someone hung the fruit that could not be eaten the first day in the well, and used the low temperature of the well water and the relatively closed environment in the well for temporary storage. The next day, it will not deteriorate if it is taken out
Modern fruit preservation is very convenient
Su Shi recorded a method of storing cherries with moso bamboo in "Gewu Rough Talk", he made holes in moso bamboo, then put the cherries in, and opened the hole Seal it and wait until the summer to take it out before eating. This is to store food in a sealed way. In addition, use paper, mud and other materials to seal bowls, jars, cans and other utensils, which is also a common seal.The method, similar to the sealing method, is to apply wax to keep the fruit fresh by sealing the wax. According to "Shilin Guangji", " grapes are wrapped in wax paper, placed in a jar, and then sealed with wax. Dry ", the fresh-keeping effect is even better than the sealing of the utensil
The Song Dynasty commonly used storage method is also the mixing method, which uses the method of two kinds of ingredients to maintain the taste of the ingredients, and the fruits are well known to modern people. In fact, it was widely used as early as the Song Dynasty. For example, mixing hot oranges and cold mung beans,
neutralizes the gas emitted by the two to achieve the purpose of long-term preservation. The mixing method is also Applicable to vegetables, Su Shi said in "Ge Wu Cu Tan" "Winter melon is built-in eggplant, until spring is not bad ", " 研 must菜自入豆腐不生虫", examples of this abound. It also proves from the side that the people of the Song Dynasty had a lot of brainpower in eating and drinking.
The people of the Song Dynasty also used lime powder and sand to store food. The eggplants and fruits picked in summer were fully wrapped in lime powder, and they could still be used in winter. For eating, chestnuts and tea leaves buried in dry sand can prolong the shelf life, probably by using the alkalinity of lime powder and the temperature control characteristics of sand to preserve food
Fresh food preservation in Song Dynasty, not only has various methods, but also Certain technical content, one is to focus on sterilization. According to records, when people in Song Dynasty store eggplants, they should choose a new urn that has never left water and sundries, and put it in the sun for three to five days together with the rice leaves that wrap the eggplant. It is to sterilize and dehumidify, avoid the breeding of microorganisms, and affect the preservation of eggplant. The second is to choose food and pick out unqualified ingredients. When storing oranges, " will be picked out if it is slightly damaged, otherwise it will invade Damage nearby person ", pick out damaged citrus to avoid corruption and affect other citrus, which fully meets the requirements of modern fruit preservation, which reflects the scientific nature of Song Dynasty preservation technology
Damaged orange
- Drying type
Not all food can be kept fresh, sometimes in order to ensure the taste and hygiene of the ingredients, Song people also use many drying methods, which can be avoided Food waste can also give the ingredients a special flavor.
The most common drying method is to heat by the sun and high temperature. Xianju County, Taizhou City, Zhejiang Province has a history of producing shiitake mushrooms
Local People dried the mushrooms and transported them to other places for sale. "Bacteria": " has been used as a tribute for decades, and the mountain lily has been sold at a good price. The dried mushrooms are sold at a rate of ." The weight is greatly reduced, which can maintain the original flavor and is convenient for transportation, which brings great economic benefits to the locals
Not only vegetables, but meat can also be dried and sold. The most famous one is Wuchang’s "light fish". This name does not mean freshwater fish, but refers to dried fish. This dried fish is very popular and even sold. In Jiangxi, the local " Jixiang without dried fish is not Shengli ", the price of dried fish has skyrocketed. The Huangzhou government charges heavy taxes on dried fish. Mingdao Magazine records "黄州税物every If you have three fish boats, you will not worry about your profit in one day. ", it can be seen that the profit of the dried fish industry is huge.
In the Song Dynasty, many fruits were also made and dried. There are many shops selling dried fruits in Lin'an. There are lychees, fragrant pears, Beijing dates, Miyun persimmons, peaches and so on. When Gao Zong Zhaogou visited Zhang Jun’s mansion, Zhang Jun presented more than ten kinds of dried fruits. Even the emperor loved to eat dried fruits. It shows that the popularity of dried fruit at that time was not inferior to that of fresh fruit
果干
Then there is pickling, which is caused by the action of salt, sugar and other substances in the food. Microbial fermentation inhibits the activities of bacteria and enzymes and achieves the purpose of long-term preservation of food. This practice can give food a special flavor, so it is also welcomed by the people of the Song Dynasty.
There are many ways to pickle, which can be divided into Sugar pickled, salted, sauce pickled, garlic pickled, plum pickled, etc. For example, the melon pickled from Zhaozhou, Hebei, is pickled with garlic, ginger and other powders. Recorded in "Qingbo Bizhi" "Zhaozhou melon, famous since the past. Melon is small, sweet and crisp ", becoming a famous local specialty
In addition to vegetables, melons and fruits, meat is also suitable for marinating, lamb, venison and other meats are washed and then salted to taste, or Supplemented with white vinegar, Sichuan pepper, or supplemented with horse celery and red beans, cooked at high temperature and exposed to the sun, you can get delicious dried meat. The puffer fish mentioned above can be made into dried fish. These meats can be marinated. Different seasonings are added according to the tastes of the diners, the flavor is unique, clean and hygienic, and has a long shelf life. It is very suitable for storing food.
There is also a more common practice is to make the food, which can be divided according to the raw and cooked raw materials. For raw and cooked glutinous rice, it is roughly the same as the modern glutinous rice production method. The glutinous rice product was a common delicacy in the Song Dynasty. There were many vendors on the streets of Lin'an in the Southern Song Dynasty selling glutinous crab, glutinous trotters, and geese. "Zhongzhulu" even records the practice of drunk eggplant, which shows how much Song people love drunk products
The drying technology of Song Dynasty has been greatly improved compared with the previous generations. Take the production of preserved candied fruit as an example, before the Song Dynasty The preserved preserved meat is usually selected in spring and autumn because the summer is too hot, the meat is perishable, the temperature in winter is too low, and the seasoning is not easy to taste, but in the Song Dynasty, people improved the preserved preserved craftsmanship, and the Wu family in Pujiang once invented summer cured meat Method, expanded the season of dried preserved food
肉腐
Although there are many types of drying methods, they have some common features. The shelf life of dried ingredients will be greatly prolonged and they are stronger. The anti-corruption property makes long-term preservation of meat possible, ensuring the market supply of meat products throughout the year. Although dried products will lose some water, the nutrition of the ingredients will not disappear, and the effect of seasoning Dried products will present a distinctive flavor, expand the audience of the food, and make the Song Dynasty diet more diversified
Summary
The Song Dynasty food preservation methods are diverse, and the level of craftsmanship is better than that of the previous generation. Many methods have been used today. These methods ensure the quality and hygiene of food, slow down the speed of food corruption, and enable food to reach more places through the developed transportation network in the Song Dynasty, which indirectly promoted the development of the commodity economy in the Song Dynasty. Development, the processed food has more flavor, enriched the content of the dietary life of the Song Dynasty, and left a lot of valuable heritage for the food culture of our country
