Editor's note:
This group of articles is a follow-up record of the collection of royal essays "Northern Grains". The author focuses on more than ten kinds of grains in the north. These grains are all grains in the north with typical living conditions, well-known to the world, and have a unique cultural background. Based on his years of experience and experience in the north, the author reveals the life scene of symbiosis, coexistence and coexistence between man and grain.
014 Serve with rice
In rural areas in the north, they generally do not cook much, but the side dishes are quite rich. No matter which meal is morning, no matter which meal is morning, noon and evening, side dishes are indispensable. Northerners call this side dish a rice dish, which means that there are rice and vegetables to eat, which is not monotonous, but also tastes delicious.
serves rice, so it becomes synonymous with side dishes.
Eat corn rice, stir-fried balls, pot crucian carrots, slurry noodles, etc. The rice includes stir-fried pickles, pickled carrot strips, cold spinach shredded vermicelli, stir-fried chili rings, stir-fried potato shreds, stir-fried leeks, and a small pot of balsamic vinegar. Some people may not move a single chopstick when they serve the meal, but they must also prepare it. This meal is not eaten for the next meal.
sausage noodles made from wheat noodles , steamed buns, pancakes, even pork leg stew, drinking water soup, etc., you must prepare meals to varying degrees. Some people only have steamed buns and a bowl of sauce soup, but there are two or three kinds of rice, and they are also delicious.
When you have a meal, the simple meal will taste more and have a sense of ritual. People eat one or two bites of rice and then one bite of rice, which makes them look delicious. For example, when eating noodles with sauerkraut, the housewife will intentionally add less salt to the sauerkraut. The eater will add salt, vinegar, oil and hot chili according to the taste. The food will be smooth and peaceful.
In the past, the rice was single, and northerners only picked up a few chopsticks, which was called "dan chopsticks", which means that it is enough to pick up a little less. Nowadays, there are many varieties of rice, and the name of chopsticks is gone forever.
02eating
e eating meets people's qualities, and also show human nature, and even more showing human destiny. The north is different from the south, so the eating habits of the two places are also different. Northerners have always eaten large pieces of meat and drank wine, while southerners have exquisite and diverse dishes and a combination of meat and vegetables. For example, drinking, there is also the saying that Siberian tiger cannot beat Northwest wolf , and the Northwest wolf cannot beat the little sheep in the south.
The eating habits of northerners are mostly fast, direct and comfortable. They are the same dish or bowl of rice. If they are eaten in different places, they will have different situations. For example, if a person who comes back from working, he brings him a bowl of pickled cabbage noodles. He can finish it in one breath. You can't figure out whether he has finished eating or drinking it. People who work hard and work hard are also used to eating, and they can't slow down no matter what. If you go to a meal with a wedding or a stewed vegetables and , it will be completely different when eating. At this time, people no longer talk about crops, but instead have a solemn expression and look like they are in a big event. No wonder, whether it is a popular or a funeral, although it is a major event for a certain family, the invited people are relatives and friends, so they have to keep their face. Not only that, I also have to give up my seat to the elders and pick up food for the children. I have to work hard for a while before eating. Their eating style is much more elegant and calm.
The eating behavior at the dinner table at home depends on the season. For example, during the busy farming season, you have to eat breakfast quickly. If you slow down, the elderly will leave a sentence: the sun will not wait for anyone, and after that, they will take the farm tools out. The young man quickly put the last few mouthfuls of food into his mouth, got up and ran out. If it is during the slack season, children or young people eat quickly, they will be criticized by the elders: there is no urgent matter, eat the steamed buns and drink the soup, so that they will not be in vain to plant crops and eat so much hardship.
If you have life in the ground, you will be anxious when you eat; if you don’t have life in the ground, you will be slow when you eat.
The inflection and humility of northerners can be seen from the appearance of eating.
034eat a meal
The synonyms for northerners to treat guests, in addition to this, there are "come to eat, come and eat in one go", etc. Whether it is an invitation in person or asking someone to send a message, it means treating guests. If it is a treat at home, it is a big deal. The person who initiated it is ready and the invitee must solemnly come to the appointment.Usually, the invitee should bring toon , oolongtou and other timely wild vegetables, or tea, eggs, etc., and should not go empty-handed.
Most of the dishes you treat to eat are stewed pork , stir-fried chicken, braised fish, steamed stewed pork , braised tofu , scrambled eggs, braised meatballs and other meat dishes. Vegetarian dishes include braised eggplant , fried beans , stir-fried cucumbers, stir-fried cabbage, etc. Pigs and chickens are raised by themselves, and vegetables are grown by themselves, and they are ready to use and are endless.
There are also outsiders who are catching up with the family eating. They were originally talking about the matter, but the owner quickly stuffed a bowl of rice into the man's hand and signaled to eat first and then talk about the matter. If that person is here to ask for an explanation, for example, the child in this family breaks his glass, or the cattle and sheep in this family eats his crops, but the people have stuffed the bowls into his hands, and after eating one bowl, he can't speak anyway, so he gets up and leaves after a few words of greetings.
makes delicious food, and bringing a bowl to relatives, widowed elderly people, or elders, is also a kind of "eat a meal". The ones that were brought were stewed pork, stewed lamb , fried oil cakes, fried bacon, etc. In the past, these were the best meat and vegetables in the northern countryside. They didn’t eat much, but they had to make more food whenever they had eaten, and try to let those in need eat a bowl. The meat and vegetables I brought over will be put down with the bowls. Some people will eat them in several meals, and after eating, they will wash the dishes and send them back.
years ago, I killed a pig and stewed a large pot, and asked the whole village to eat it. This situation is called eating pig-killing vegetable . No matter who kills the New Year pig, the villagers do not make dinner and will be invited to have a meal without exception. This is the largest "eating" of "eat a meal". Today is at your house and tomorrow is at his house. We will be happy with it.
04 greedy
What is the most greedy in the north?
Shaanxi people are greedy for sauerkraut noodles, mutton soy steamed buns, Roujiamo , gourd head, buckwheat noodles husk , sauerkraut fish , guokui, Shaanxi Liangpi , etc. Sauce Noodles are home-cooked meals, so I don’t get tired of eating them all in the morning, noon and evening. Lamb soaked buns and roujiamo are the favorite foods of Shaanxi people. They are not convenient to make at home. If you don’t go out for a meal every two days, you will feel uncomfortable all over.
Gansu people are greedy for slurry, beef noodle , 香港 , 香港 , 香港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港 港The tastes of Gansu people are divided by Lanzhou. People east of Lanzhou like pasta, which is basically the same as those of Shaanxi; people south like spicy food, which is similar to Sichuan; people west have more complex tastes, including Qinghai, Ningxia and Xinjiang. The terrain of Gansu is long, and the food will be filled with wind from all sides, which will change accordingly.
Xinjiang people What you craving is mix noodles ( lamb skewers ), grilled lamb kebabs , pilaf, naan, hand-grabbed meat, grilled buns, oil tower , etc. Xinjiang food still maintains its nomadic characteristics today, and many foods can still be operated manually with the help of natural terrain. In this way, not only does the form have a unique taste, but the taste is also very different from the food in other provinces. Xinjiang is a typical immigrant area. Sometimes ten people sit at a table and eat at a time. Only after asking, they find out that they come from seven or eight provinces, and there are sayings of the second generation of Xinjiang and the third generation of Xinjiang. People from other places to Xinjiang must first pass the dietary quarrel, ranging from three to five years to one or two years. They must always be suggested, influenced and led by Xinjiang Food , and first become imitators of taste and eating methods, and then develop eating habits.
05 Fire is laughing
When I was a child, I helped my mother add fire to the stove in front of the stove. My mother was busy in front of the stove. She would occasionally stop and say to me, listen, the fire is laughing. I turned my ears and heard the flames in the stove whistling, and they were very rhythmic, really like laughter. My mother has heard too much, reminding me that it is just for me to listen, and saying that it is a good omen for me to laugh. When I hear the laughter of fire, I will definitely be able to read well. I don’t like to listen to others asking me to study hard, but I can listen to my mother’s words and increase my confidence.
In fact, fire laughter is the sound that comes from the burning flames rising because the temperature in the stove is too high and there is no convection air, so it makes a natural sound.Even so, Fire doesn't laugh often. Sometimes, it suddenly starts, sending a series of beautiful sounds into people's ears, making people feel excited. If it is in a ventilated place or in the wild, the fire will not laugh. Some people say that fire only smiles at people who often surround the stove. Undoubtedly, housewives are the ones who hear the most laughs at fire.
日本站有片, there are many sayings in rural northern China, and they are all related to cooking and eating. There was a daughter of a family who had never heard the fire laugh. The day before her marriage, the villagers then discussed, some were blessed and some were worried. My mother said unhappily, it was just a sound of fire, so there were no such words. Unexpectedly, my daughter came back crying three days after getting married because her husband was domestically violent as soon as she got married, and her daughter's marriage ended like that. Later, when my daughter was cooking, she often heard Huo Xiao. Not only her, but even her mother was also nervous. I wonder if Huo Xiao is lucky or bad?
06 4 years old, the city where I live had an epidemic and was at home statically without any trouble, so I wrote the "Northwest of the World" series, which consisted of eleven articles. Because I have eaten juice since I was a child, all my writings are memory details, but I was awakened this time. A food contains many cultures, and the methods of making and eating them are different in different places, so the memory of slurry is closely related to personal preferences. The articles written by the shui do not force the right to speak, nor do they guide others to educate them. People often say that ten miles of customs are different. If another person writes about slurry, it is another kind of experience and expression. So I will write it for now. Please read it for now. If you discuss more interesting things about slurry, you will be lucky.
I thought that the end of writing the slurry water, but I didn't expect that by writing the slurry water, the northern grains were drawn out, so I took advantage of the slurry time to write down one kind of slurry food after another, and finally wrote this "Northern grains". The previous film "Food is Heaven" describes 80 kinds of food in Xinjiang, including history, region and ethnic group. I once wanted to write about the past and present of each kind of food. The scope of this film is only a radius of one hundred miles, which is my rural memory when I was a child. There are a lot of miscellaneous grains. I will write about what I have eaten and familiar with, and I will not write about what I have not eaten and unfamiliar with. I vaguely remembered a saying by Borges : Write less what you want to write, write more of what you can write. Borges is a blind man, but when I saw his words, I felt that he watched many people say this, expressing a simple and calm wisdom.
royal family:
Currently serving in Xinjiang Writers Association , and is a member of Chinese Writers Association . It has published collections of essays, novels, novels, etc. He has won the Chinese People's Liberation Army Literature and Art Award, the Tianshan Literature and Art Award, the Sanmao Prose Award, the , the Lin Yutang Prose Award, and the Chinese Literature and Media Award. Some works are translated into English, French, Japanese, Korean, Russian, German and other texts and are published overseas.
