"I never knew what kind of rice dishes, we only have Sichuan dishes". This is the comment of many netizens after the publication of the spicy survey "Heaven Drops "Rong Cai", Sichuanese people are confused, Chengdu people are even more confused, this title actually originated from Chongqing". spicy community also interviewed the famous Sichuan cuisine master Zhang Zhongyou , industry associations, Sichuan cuisine museum and so on.
Zhang Zhongyou: It is not wise to split Sichuan cuisine and it is not good for the promotion and development
"The big tree of Sichuan cuisine has existed for thousands of years. I do not advocate the term'Rongcai' to split Sichuan cuisine, which is very unwise." Regarding the "Rongcai" controversy, Sichuan cuisine master Zhang Zhongyou told the editor of Mala Community that he has been in the catering industry for 60 years. In Chengdu and other Sichuan cities, from official to private, I have never heard of the term "Rongcai".
In Zhang Zhongyou's view, Sichuan cuisine has a wide range of influence, profound historical background and wide social recognition. On June 16 this year, Sichuan cuisine was selected as the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage representative items. "Independent small cuisine is not good for Sichuan cuisine." Zhang Zhongyou said.
Master of Sichuan cuisine Zhang Zhongyou
"The significance of Sichuan cuisine is not limited to cuisine, it is also an important pillar industry in Sichuan." Zhang Zhongyou believes that this industry is very large, driving all chains in the industrial chain, upstream agricultural and sideline product breeding industry, midstream catering and food processing, downstream retail, tourism, culture, health care and other products, and even derived products. The Sichuan kitchen training industry, etc., these industries are linked and promoted to jointly promote the development and growth of the Sichuan cuisine industry, and at the same time create many employment opportunities for the society, which is of great significance.
At the same time, the acceptance of Sichuan cuisine outside Sichuan and overseas is quite high. The Sichuan Provincial People’s Government also attaches great importance to “going out of Sichuan cuisine”, because the going out of Sichuan cuisine brings more than just a dish of dishes to the outside world. There are ingredients, technicians, culture, etc., and the effect of food in driving tourism is very obvious.So development is a virtuous circle.
So what is facing Sichuan cuisine now? Zhang Zhongyou said that Sichuan cuisine certainly has its own limitations and some problems. Sichuan cuisine also needs to be developed and improved. However, the division of Sichuan cuisine by independent small cuisines is definitely not the development and promotion of Sichuan cuisine. The development of Sichuan cuisine is not a grandstanding concept, but a pragmatic concept. , Start from Sichuan cuisine itself. Sichuan cuisine is originally a very fusion cuisine, and it has been advancing continuously, absorbing the strengths of various families, and now there is the development and growth of Sichuan cuisine. The independent small cuisine is contrary to the open and inclusive temperament and philosophy of Sichuan cuisine. It is closed and internally circulated. Will it still be Sichuan cuisine? "Sichuan cuisine and Sichuan people are made by tolerance."
As for the entry on Rongcai, Zhang Zhongyou believes that although Xiaoyu can't make a big wave, and only a few people with ulterior motives are clamoring, the entry of "Rongcai" should be banned and the public should be given correct guidance and not let one fabricate it. The entry to mislead the public to recognize a non-existent "Rongcai".
Character brief introduction: Zhang Zhongyou, Chinese cooking master, won the China Cooking Master Lifetime Achievement Award; Sichuan Cuisine Master in Sichuan Province; former head chef of the Chinese delegation at the United Nations Headquarters; served as head chef in Sichuan restaurants in Japan and Germany; once won Award for Outstanding Contribution to the Inheritance of Skills in China’s Catering Industry in the 40 Years of Reform and Opening-up; Award for Outstanding Contribution to Inheritance of Sichuan Cuisine Classics in Sichuan Province.
Industry Association: Tolerance is the core of the development of Sichuan cuisine, grandstanding is not innovation
"As a native of Chengdu, and has worked in the industry for so many years, I have never heard of Chengdu cuisine." Gong Yongze, chairman of the trade association and chairman of jingongweiye, said that whether it is official or private, whether it is in the whole province or in Chengdu, only one dish is recognized: Sichuan cuisine.
Gong Yongze said that the people of Sichuan are tolerant and optimistic, and Sichuanese are also good at inclusiveness. Although they have their own distinctive personality that has been formed over the past millennia, they are also inclusive. It is the tolerant character of Sichuan cuisine that combines the strengths of all families and a hundred dishes. .Engaging in small cuisines like "Rong Cai" is tantamount to painting the ground as a prison and cutting off development.
"But it must be explained that this is a misunderstanding. We Chengdu people absolutely did not engage in "Rong Cai". This requires the media to publicize and revoke the entry of "Rong Cai" on the Encyclopedia platform in order to see and hear." Gong Yongze I believe that it is impossible for Sichuan cuisine to stop its development. It is always developing, but tolerance is the core of Sichuan cuisine development. Grandstanding and unconventional can only attract attention. Using bad methods to obtain traffic is not innovation and development.
The relevant person in charge of the Chengdu Sichuan Cuisine Museum also accepted an interview with the editors of Mala Community. They said that the word "Rongcai" has never appeared in all the books and other materials they have collected so far.
Spicy short comment: Sichuan cuisine is a cultural concept
Sichuan cuisine itself is a cultural concept, not an administrative division concept. Narrow regional sentiment is not conducive to the development of an industry.
The entries on the major encyclopedia platforms of "Rongcai" appear to be a new word on the surface, but in fact, after in-depth understanding, such "freshness" does not have any positive meaning for the development of Sichuan cuisine. On the contrary, it is Is hurting this industry.
The narrowness of the individual, the narrowness of the region, and the desires of private individuals have created the non-existent term "Rongcai" to mislead the public and create opposition and division. It is a huge obstacle to the development of an industry.
(Midnight, Xu Minhui)
Related links:
2, Chengdu netizens ask: What is "Rongcai"? Is there official recognition?
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