Mapo tofu is one of the oldest and most well-known Sichuan dishes.
In the author's mind, except for those rare and precious dishes that have been lost or have been rare, Mapo tofu and twice-cooked pork, Kung Pao chicken, and boiled cabbage are several very representative dishes-twice-cooked pork is the top brand of Sichuan cuisine in the family, Kung Pao Diced chicken is a famous corner from the government, boiled cabbage is the oiran of banquets, and Mapo tofu is the pillar of folk snacks (different from the connotation of snacks we talk about today). They can be called the "Four Famous Dans" of active traditional Sichuan cuisine. Of course, this is just a personal humble opinion. Every Sichuanese and even out-of-town diners who like Sichuan cuisine have their own recognized dishes.
△ "Chen Mapo Tofu" shop recruitment in the 1970s and 1980s
There are many introductions about the origins and methods of Mapo tofu. From 1909 "Chengdu General Survey", "Chen Mapo's Tofu" has been recorded. Since entering the ranks of the famous food stores in Chengdu, we have accumulated a lot of information about Chen Mapo's people and things, Mapo tofu and their flavors and methods. Those who are familiar with them don't need to repeat them. Here are a few uncommon fragments. Sort it out and share with you.
News
to cook Mapo tofu, will you use lard and rice soup
Fu Chongju's "Chengdu General View" is an earlier document that records the name of Chen Mapo, but it does not mention the others. At present, it is known that Feng Jiaji was the one who recorded the location of the shop earlier. He pointed out that the shop was located beside Wanfu Bridge in the "Hundred Poems of Jincheng Zhuzhi Ci" published in 1924. In 1936, Zhou Xun, a native of Guizhou, first explained the selling methods, brief seasonings and prices of Mapo Tofu in "Hibiscus Old Sayings".
Until 1947, Li Jieren, a native of Chengdu, published in more detail the origins, preparation methods and characteristics of Mapo Tofu in the supplement of the "Sichuan Times" "Huayang Guozhi" (Li Jieren also wrote about it in the novel "Dabo" Wonderful creation), and revised into the official manuscript in 1948-"Talking about Chinese People's Clothing, Food, Housing and Transportation".
According to Li Jieren’s records, the original name of the Chen Mapo Tofu Shop was "Chen Xingsheng Rice Shop". Chen Mapo herself was an old lady with a not-so-attractive appearance (in "Da Bo", she said there are pockmarks on her face) Because the tofu was cooked well, the name of the shop was gradually called "Chen Mapo Hotel". The practice at that time was to add minced chili after the vegetables were fried, and then put pork slices, tofu cubes, green onions, and garlic sprouts. "Stir-fry and stir-fry, add salt and water, and cook for a while, so the noodles are covered with spicy red oil. Put a handful of minced pepper on the table."
can be seen from the Mapo tofu in the 1940s. The main ingredients are vegetable oil, ground chili, ground pepper, salt, green onion, garlic sprouts, etc. The procedure is to fry the ingredients first, braise the sauce, then burn the main and auxiliary ingredients, and finally sprinkle the pepper. It is basically the same as the later approach. This description of Li Jieren has also become a basis for the allusions of Mapo tofu today. Later practices have evolved on this basis, but in the end they will never change. What
makes people feel fresh is that in an article in 1948, a different approach was written. In this version, a little minced pork or beef is simmered in lard until it is slightly burnt, then soy sauce, bean paste, garlic or garlic sprouts and a little rice soup are added, and the tofu is cooked for a while. Bring to the hottest point and start the pan, then add red pepper oil and pepper powder on top and serve.
△ "Agricultural Production" records the use of lard and rice soup to cook Mapo Tofu
The author of this article was signed by Zhisheng, and it was published in the publication "Agricultural Production" published in Peking in 1948. There are two obvious differences between this practice—— One is lard and the other is rice soup. The practice of using lard is rare, but adding rice soup is easy to understand and can serve to thicken. This version of Mapo Tofu does have a different flavor, but after the author’s practice, I am not used to it, and it is slightly greasy. , Interested friends can try it.
