The afterglow of today's " Datong Restaurant " is still echoing in the hearts of the older generation of provincial, Hong Kong and Macao people, although it has bid farewell to the vast number of diners more than 80 years after its birth.
recalls its glorious journey here.
There are actually many restaurants called " Datong ", which have store accounts in Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Beijing, but the story is even more tortuous in Guangzhou. Therefore, the "Datong Restaurant" mentioned here is about the "Datong Restaurant" at No. 432 Changti Road, Guangzhou.
is located between Changti Road, and Xihao Erma Road (called "Xihaokou" in Guangzhou) and there is a cinema called "Guangzhou Cinema". The building was invested by Lianhua Film Real Estate Company. The original design height is flush with the adjacent " Aiqun Building " (the "Aiqun Building" building is 18 stories high and was the tallest building in Guangzhou from 1937 to 1976), and combines entertainment and food.
Unfortunately, the Japanese invasion of China has approached Guangzhou. Therefore, the shareholders of Lianhua Film Real Estate Company decided to stop starting up immediately when the building where the "Guangzhou Cinema" is built to the seventh floor frame, and all the above floors will be used by others except for the first and second floors as cinemas for their own use.
Guangzhou Cinema is located in Xihaokou, Longkou, Guangzhou. The original building height is flush with the "Aiqun Building". Due to Japan's invasion of Guangzhou, construction has been suspended from construction to the seventh floor.
That year was 1938 (the Zhanjiang , which was called " Guangzhou Bay " when Gazai army occupied in September, and occupied Guangzhou in October). Japanese businessman Nakazawa Qinli obtained properties on all levels with the power of Gazai army , and operated a restaurant business under the account of "Guangzhou Park" (having nothing to do with the "Guangzhou Park" in Dongzha, Dongzha, Guangzhou).
is a restaurant run by the invaders after all, and with a few katanas, how can it act as a scene in Guangzhou, which is known as "food in Guangzhou"? Therefore, there are very few Chinese people visiting. Even though Nakazawa's personal rituals try his best to promote Sino-Japanese friendship, the "Guangzhou Garden Restaurant" has always been neglected.
On October 20, 1938, Japanese Noda troops invaded Zengcheng, Guangzhou, and ruins were everywhere. The picture comes from the Internet
1942. A kidnapping case made Nakazawa's kinship like " eating shit and eating beans ".
The reason is that Mr. Feng Jiansheng, the shopkeeper who was running a "Datong Restaurant" in Hong Kong at that time, returned to his hometown to visit his relatives (originally from Xiaolan, Zhongshan). He was kidnapped by local bandits when he passed by Panyu (now Panyu District, Guangzhou). Although there was , Guangzhou-Kowloon Railway , it took time to go back and forth and raise ransom. In an emergency, Mr. Feng Jiansheng decided to ask his colleagues in Guangzhou for help.
This matter was discovered by Zhongze’s personal rituals, so Mr. Feng Jiansheng was rescued through the relationship between the Gazai and the traitor.
This matter was originally finished.
The bloody thing is that Nakaze personally helped Mr. Feng Jiansheng to help Mr. Feng Jiansheng have another conspiracy:
first forced Mr. Feng Jiansheng to accept the business of "Guangzhou Garden Restaurant" at a high price as his "benefactor".
Mr. Feng Jiansheng didn't know that it was a plan, so he relied on his experience in running "Datong Restaurant" in Hong Kong to renovate the "Guangzhou Garden Restaurant" and changed the name of "Datong Restaurant". As the business changed to Chinese, the business was booming.
, and then declares that "selling the table but not the stock" and forcibly occupy shares.
Zhongze’s personal relationship saw that the business of “Datong Restaurant” was booming, so he entrusted Mr. Feng Jian to manage the “Guangzhou Garden Restaurant” instead of transferring the shares. Therefore, "Datong Restaurant" should have his shares. Unfortunately, Guangzhou was still occupied by Gazai at that time. Mr. Feng Jiansheng knew it was difficult to deal with it, so he had to give up some of the shares, so that Zhongze's personal liquor could enjoy the benefits without investing a penny.
1945 On August 15, Japan declared unconditional surrender, and Nakazawa's personal relied all shares unconditionally. This was originally a happy event that excited Mr. Feng Jiansheng.
, who didn't know that the problem came from the fact that Nakaze Qinli once "has been" in obtaining shares of "Datong Restaurant", which is nominally a shareholder of "Datong Restaurant". Although this shareholder's identity is disgusting.
and later, the "Corruption and Injury" officials of the Republic of China government regarded "Datong Restaurant" as an enemy property and confiscated and auctioned without caring about the situation.
At that time, a counselor suggested that Mr. Feng Jiansheng appeal to the (Guangzhou) City Enemy and Puppet Management Bureau, but Mr. Feng Jiansheng saw through the world and finally gave up the "Datong Restaurant" business in Guangzhou with tears in his eyes and returned to Hong Kong to continue his catering business in Hong Kong.
The matter on the other side has just ended, and the matter on the other side has come one after another!
At that time, Mr. Tan Jienan, who was known as the "Teahouse King", saw that the newspaper had a notice on auctioning the enemy's property, so he went to the enemy's pseudo-property management bureau to register and vote.
episode happened to be a coincidence. In the enemy and pseudo-property management bureau, I met Mr. Liu Jiawei, the secretary of the director of the management bureau.
After the two of them chatted, they knew that Liu Jiawei actually had a relative relationship and origin with Mr. Tan Jienan.
Liu Jiawei's wife Chen Qianxia originally happened to be Tan Jienan's cousin. Mr. Tan Jienan's first job from Dafu Township, Nanhai (now Nanhai District, Foshan City) to the provincial capital (Guangzhou) was working as a sack (apprentice) in the "Pingxiang Tea House" opened by Chen Qianxia's father (Liu Jiawei's father-in-law).
Tan Liu and the other two had a great conversation and set up a seamless "Banking Office" for the successful bidding for "Datong Restaurant".
In advance, through Liu Jiawei's confidant Lin Jiyong to Zhang Fakui to find out the truth and found that Zhang Fakui's wife was not interested in "Datong Restaurant" and supported this auction (there are some bloody plots, which are simply not to be distracted). At the same time, under the arrangement of Liu Jiawei, several "people in the surrounding area" were inserted at the auction just in case. The auction of
happened as expected and then became a branch.
At the auction, Lianhua Pictures Real Estate Company recommended Mr. Mai Su, the restaurant manager on the 11th floor of "Aiqun Building", to invest. The price of Mr. Mai Su is close to Mr. Tan Jienan's starting price, and the auction price is constantly raising. In the end, Mr. Tan Jienan won the "Datong Restaurant" for a price of 500 yuan, that is, 100,500 ,000 ,000 .
At this point, another new catering industry expert has opened the curtain for taking over "Datong Restaurant".
Guangzhou "Datong Restaurant" is on the Guangzhou Cinema
Here I will briefly talk about Mr. Tan Jienan's background.
Mr. Tan Jienan was born in a teahouse (tea house). At that time, there were two major catering industries in Guangzhou. One was the "drink" that operated the restaurant business and the other was the "tea house" that operated the teahouse. The two were "well water does not interfere with the river water" - the two industries operated independently. Mr. Tan Jienan held teahouses and restaurants in Guangzhou at that time, " Taotaoju ", "Yunlai Pavilion", "Swallows", "Six Kingdoms", "Qi Miaozhai" and "Jinling".
It is this famous Mr. Tan Jienan who took the lead in implementing the system of combining teahouses and restaurants in the same venue in "Taotaoju". Although this system was boycotted by the industry, after the fourteenth year of the Anti-Japanese War, the system of merger of teahouses and restaurants was gradually accepted by the industry. This is the contribution of Mr. Tan Jienan.
This is also the reason why Mr. Tan Jienan is recognized by the industry as the "King of Teahouses".
Another contribution must be mentioned, which is Mr. Chen Fuchou, who is recognized as the "Qiankun Bag" in the industry. In order to establish his diet kingdom (four major restaurants), he broke the previous system of "everyone is in charge of each method, each is scraped with a wok" and designed a system of positions (waiting wok, chopping board, and stewing) and ingredients (you can see steaming, stewing, stir-frying, sautéing, and baking) to make the operation of the Cantonese kitchen like flowing water and double the efficiency.
Now, Mr. Tan Jienan perfectly combines the above systems and can open the store and operate it easily.
Here, I looked closely and saw that the system was available and the platform for cooking skills was available. The rest was to see how the chef with dragon-slaying skills performed on the stage.
Simplely speaking, with a complete kitchen system and food display platform, as long as you create a signature dish with unique characteristics, it is the chef's duty.
What is the signature dish used for?
I want to add historical information here.
As around 1940, there were already many restaurants in Changdi area in Guangzhou. At that time, a restaurant (the name has been forgotten) was good at "raw fried crispy chicken" and became a delicacy that was unique.
The production of this delicacy is not complicated. It is to marinate the chicken with five-spice powder and salt, then apply maltose to the chicken skin and then fry it crispy and fry it.
However, it is simple to say, but it is quite difficult to actually operate. The most important thing is that the chicken skin is maintained for a short time after being fried crispy and is often criticized by diners.
At that time, Mr. Tan Jienan had a Mai Bing master who had figured out a method of "frying crispy chicken" - it was to use boiled white brine to cook and taste the chicken in advance, pick up the chicken and apply maltose on the skin and hang it up to dry the skin. Just drizzle with hot oil during meals, and Crispy chicken can be easily fried - the skin is crispy, red in color, and smooth in meat.
The crispy effect of this method is longer than the previous method, so it is immediately more popular with diners and becomes the signature dish of "Datong Restaurant" (later becoming a classic dish of Cantonese cuisine), called "Datong Crispy Chicken".
It is said that Chang Kaishen and other officials of the Republic of China also visited Guangzhou when they retreated, and their fame greatly increased, making "Datong Restaurant" a new Cantonese restaurant that represents the achievements of Guangzhou catering after the "Four Great Restaurants".
952, "Datong Restaurant" was transformed into a public-private joint venture through socialism.
The picture shows the advertisement of "Datong Restaurant" on "Chinese Famous Recipes·Guangdong Chapter"
1 In August 984, "Datong Restaurant" was a company under the Guangzhou Food Service Company and operated in cooperation with Hong Kong Fumao Co., Ltd., becoming a joint venture in Guangzhou.
Speaking of this, we have to mention "Datong Egg Tart".
As mentioned earlier, Mr. Tan Jienan himself was born in a "tea house", and when he was operating "Taotaoju", he took the lead in integrating "tea house" and "drink" into "restaurant (the collective name of restaurant and tea house)". Therefore, although "Datong" is called a restaurant, in addition to operating a restaurant and banquet, it also has a tea market (three teas and two restaurants). In other words, you can eat or have snacks when you go to "Datong Restaurant" (this system will be extended until graduation).
In order to rejuvenate the "Datong Restaurant", Hong Kong Fumao Co., Ltd. has another group of chefs (called "Hong Kong vocational" at the time), including "Hong Kong vocational kitchen chef), "Hong Kong vocational dim sum chef", "Hong Kong vocational roasted chef" and other chefs who remain in the job. Among
, the most praised "Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" is that they made a hot, crisp, soft and fragrant "egg tart".
Speaking of "egg tarts", it was the first creation of a cake maker in Guangzhou, originally called "Lingnan Egg Tarts". It is made of lard and numeral powder to make "puff pastry", roll it thinly and then roll it into an oval slice, then put it into an oval iron cup, inject egg liquid and then put it into the cooked food. The feature is the egg smooth and crispy skin, which is deeply loved by Guangzhou people.
However, the problem is that Guangzhou cake masters are too conservative and have not improved the production process of "egg tarts" for decades, resulting in the production process of "egg tarts" that they pioneered has stagnated.
Recipe before the graduation of "Datong Restaurant"
"Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" has carried out three reforms to "egg tarts".
The first is to switch the lard used for making "puff pastry" with butter.
This is not to say that lard is not good, but lard is sticky. Guangzhou people say that they are slow to act, which is also the same. Therefore, the effect of layering the lemon is slightly inferior, so that the products often end up with a relatively hard and brittle texture.
Here I will explain what "spicy" is.
"Crispy" is a manifestation of food texture and an upgraded version of the food texture of "crunchy". The so-called "brittle" refers to the texture manifestation of the broken block when it touches. "Shrimp" is a texture manifestation of the blocky cracking and scattering.
Cooking food depends on this subtle difference.
In addition, in addition to being a texture evaluation term, "cooked" also represents the cherry balls and products that have achieved crispy effects in "dssert kitchen" (tea house). This is a common sense matter, just reader understands it.
get back to the point. Butter is not sticky and is one of the signs that distinguish Western cakes from Chinese cakes. Chinese people like to eat lard, while Western people like to eat butter. The biggest advantage of butter is that it condenses in a convergent state under low temperature environments and does not crack, providing a good body for the layering of the lemon. Lard condenses in a low-temperature environment, cracks and easily binds to the clump.
Now it seems that the "Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" sticks to the secret of making the pastry for "egg tarts", and the dim sum chef who stayed there still does not understand the principle.
Making "egg tart" pastry is an independent studio. Only the "Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" knows how much rice flour is added to the amount of butter. Even if the recipe is slightly leaked, what the dim sum chef who stayed there would never have expected was that the "Hong Kong Dim sum chef" actually used low-temperature kneading to make a pastry cucumber ball. That is, always keep the butter solidified and kneaded with the bacon, so that the layering effect of the bacon is better.
The second is to add "egg replenishment liquid".
Egg liquid and pastry will consume water and collapse when it is prepared. In the past, listens naturally and does not take any measures. The "Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" has added a process, which is to make the "egg tart" according to the original process, and then immediately replenish the egg liquid and continue to be prepared, so that the egg paste in the "egg tart" looks full. Therefore, the crispy and smooth texture of the "egg tart" can be perfectly expressed.
The third is to sell it now.
"Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" only sells the instantly made "egg tarts" when the most diners are expected. Because the "Hong Kong Dim Sum Chef" understands that the texture of crisp and crisp is the "enemy" of smooth texture, crisp and crisp are more watery, while smooth is less watery. "Egg Tart" is a food that combines crispy and smoothness. If you hesitate, the moisture of the egg paste will be sucked away by the paste. The crispy texture of the paste will become tough, and the tender and smooth texture of the egg paste will become dry.
With the perfect cooperation of these three reforms, "Datong Egg Tart" has become a must-eat snack for patrons. To this day, the older generation of Guangzhou people still talk about it continuously and remember it in their hearts.
At the end of 2006 (if you remember correctly, it may have officially announced the completion of the delivery matter in 2016) The history of "Datong Restaurant" finally came to an end, completing its glorious historical mission, and its food will be remembered by Guangzhou people forever.
