In the distant ancient times recorded in the Classic of Mountains and Seas, the magic in romantic stories reflected the authority of natural forces. In the long years when the people did not have control over their own destiny, the mountains and seas had both the "benefits of fis

In the distant ancient times described in " Classic of Mountains and Seas ", the magic in romantic stories reflects the authority of natural forces. In the long years when the people did not have control over their own destiny, the mountains and seas had both the "benefits of fishing and salt" and the difficulties of being far away from the edge. 190 years ago, Tao Shu, a pioneer of modern reform, climbed to the cloud platform to launch a reform that would reverse the situation with votes and salt. He once prayed to the sky and sea for divine blessing: "The sun rises in the east, and the saints rise in the east. All things prosper and maintain. "The King of Hundred Grains" comes from Laozi: "The reason why Jianghai is the King of Hundred Grains is because he is good at it." This "good deed" refers to Kunlun. , the rivers flowing the East China Sea also means that the food and clothing of ordinary people must always be placed in an important position.

"Food is the first priority for the people". There is a song "Fengyang Song" in the monograph " Haizhou Five Palaces ". It is based on a special folk singing concept and records a scene in Banpu, the "salt capital of Huaibei" a hundred years ago. The song "Food List". When readers look at the word "food list", they will think of Yuan Mei, a writer who is proficient in gourmet food. His " Suiyuan Food List " can be called a classic of food culture.

[Fengyang Song] is the most representative minor tune tune of Haizhou folk music. It is only similar to [ Fengyang Flower Drum ], which says "there is a shortage of nine years in ten years". They are both folk tunes [dressing up] Taiwan] variant. Yangzhou Qingqu is from the same family as Haizhou's five major palace tunes, and the versions of the popular tunes are similar. But what is surprising is that the "Dressing Table" aria of Yangzhou is always replaced by "Fengyang Song" in Haizhou. The so-called "double head" is a form of melody structure, which is to repeatedly use a tune to sing the same song in consecutive sections. text. The most typical one is "Meng Jiangnu" which is popular all over the world. In addition to "Meng Jiangnu", there are four "key" songs that have a complete narrative of Haizhou's survival, "Fengyang Song" accounts for two, and "Gluttonous Lady" has 25 paragraphs and more than 150 sentences. , only it is completely a local creation of Haizhou.

This song [Fengyang Song] was originally passed down by Mr. Zheng Xiaomei, a senior composer from Banpu, and some say it was composed by him. Zheng Xiaomei is considered a "literary" among music friends. She is versatile and plays the pipa well. Zhu Keyi, a blind artist in Zhongyun, worshiped him as his teacher. This song was sung by Zhu Keyi. It has become the representative traditional repertoire of Haeju's five major palace tunes.

Haeju folk proverb: Wear in Haeju and eat in Banpo. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, there were many dignified officials and gentry in Haizhou city, and Banpu was a gathering place for salt merchants. Huaiyang catering spread rapidly with the prosperity of the salt industry, with shops lined up in rows, and many salt merchants even hired chefs to compete for the limelight. Ordinary citizens are also infected. However, the vast majority of the working people are living in poverty and struggling to survive. Only an everlasting fire continues. This piece has an unexpected angle and adopts the unique humorous and ironic form of singing, creating the role of "Gluttonous Lady". Due to her parents' arrangement, she was married to a useless and scoundrel "disliked by all", and she tasted the bitterness of the abyss of suffering for women in the old society. The "greedy" of the Greedy Lady is not an ordinary "greedy", but vividly reflects the unquenchable yearning for a better life among women at the bottom of the old society. This song uses the traditional method of December songs to vividly express the seasonal snacks and meal customs of the four seasons in Banpo, Haeju. Take a look at the rich delicacies described in this singing "Banpu Food List".

Try the staple food first: at that time, it was customary to eat mainly pasta. Baked pancakes and pot helmets, because the local area is rich in soybean oil, there are many fried delicacies: oil buns, oil dumplings, oil steamed buns, oil tongs, oil rice dumplings, oil twists, oil Xuan cakes, dry-fried dumplings, fried glutinous rice dumplings , even fried dough sticks are no longer a problem. Fried pork ribs are also included in the menu. Noodles and snacks include Maoer dumplings and Sanxian dumplings. The chicken noodle soup should be small and wide, or the egg noodle should be runny. ham rice dumplings should be "returned" to be eaten hot. I also like white rice. The most beautiful thing is to have a cage of crab soup dumplings and a bowl of chicken porridge.

Another dish: There are many varieties of cold dishes, including Banpu sausage. Seasoning is inseparable from shrimps, pickled raw shrimps, shrimps mixed with shepherd's purse, green peas and shrimps, shrimp oil mixed with peppers, cold shrimps blanched with toon, and shrimp roe tofu, which are not easy to eat now. . The most colorful ones are the Baoying salted duck eggs with two circles of gold and jade. There are also blanched jellyfish, cold-boiled white meat, and the taste of liverwurst is very strange, especially for those who like the old nest pig. Braised pork is generally considered to be fat, has a bad taste and cannot be eaten, but liver sausage is particularly fragrant when braised.

Vegetables, probably because the aunt usually eats so much that her face is like a vegetable, so she doesn’t eat much. What is unforgettable is Haizhou’s specialties cold vegetables , as well as leek sprouts and day lily braised tofu puffs. There is also the favorite dish of Jiangnan people, stir-fried winter bamboo shoots with mustard greens. Although gluten is not present, it creates a sweet and sour taste in a unique way.

Banpo cuisine pays attention to the ingredients used. The local crucian carp is called swordfish . Although it is a home-cooked dish and is not unusual, it must be killed alive. It has to "stretch its gills and shake its scales" and jump a few times when it is put into the pot. There are not many delicacies from the mountains and seas, but "relying on the sea and eating from the sea", we are still proud of the seafood. During Qingming Festival in March, copper crabs and prawns are most in season. That’s the “specialty” of seafood that can’t be missed. Copper crabs and prawns, the most authentic ones are steamed. We also invite sea cucumber, tendons, scallops, jiaji fish as side dishes, and add a plate of hot Chinese toon for decoration. When stewing old hen soup, in addition to using ham to enhance the flavor, you also add mussels .

Banpo cuisine pays attention to cooking heat and techniques. It is said that Yi Yin, the "Cooking Sage" of Xia and Shang Dynasties, lived in seclusion in Guanyun , Guanyin, in his later years. Yilu, Dayi and Xiaoyi mountains are all named after this saint. Although no specific famous dishes of his cooking skills have survived, there are indeed many good chefs in Haizhou. Especially good at handling seafood. Those who are "good at" often have unique techniques. For example, when cooking scallops, you need to cook them with radish skin, and when you cook elbow meat, you need to use charcoal fire. When cooking long fish, in addition to learning the masterpiece of Huai'an , you can also cook long fish Ma'anqiao. "Ma'anqiao" refers to knife skills, while " fire " refers to the control of heat. The hot pot is stir-fried quickly, and it must be completed on a high fire with a height of one foot. There is also a Ningbo dish: "Dried yellow croaker and pork", which I am afraid was brought here by Sun En. The word "㸆" is mistakenly recorded as the word "roasted", which is a mistake.

Stir-fried dishes are very skillful. Stir-fried pork, stir-fried chicken, stir-fried chicken feathers, stir-fried shrimps, stir-fried razor clams each have their own unique features. The so-called "chicken feather" is a small piece of tender meat from the chicken tail. Because the feather grows on it, it is the most tender piece of meat in the whole body. The materials are not easy to obtain, and the heat is also very particular. Stir-fried razor clams and fried shrimps are difficult to master in terms of color, flavor and flavor.

Mr. Yao Xianglin recorded twenty-six cooking methods in "Banpu Spring and Autumn": frying, frying, simmering, boiling, braising and stewing; baking, soaking, soaking, fumigating, steaming, and sour sauce. In Xiaoqu, the "simmering" method is often used, and "stewed yellow fish belly with crab roe" should be recommended as one of the best. People in Haizhou like to stew fish slowly. It has a rich flavor. There is a dialect word for it called "boil". The delicious taste of boiled fish is hard to come by these days. The scientific name of Gaji fish is sea bream, including red sea bream and black sea bream. The body is tall and flat on the sides, more than fifty centimeters long. The meat is tender and delicious, and is regarded as the "crown of sea fish". Due to the destruction of the natural marine environment, there are fewer and fewer offshore areas. Nowadays, you can sometimes pick up its seedlings among small miscellaneous fish. Gaji fish is often sliced ​​into fillets and stir-fried, but the unique way of eating it in Haeju is to cook it patiently and slowly. If you eat sea cucumber, it is often cooked with meatballs .

When you go to Banpu, you can’t help but try the locally ground tofu. The most distinctive one is "Wang Tofu". This dish is rarely heard of in other places. Only Wang Zengqi talks about it in his nostalgia for his hometown Gaoyou. The technique of "woof" is not easy to master. Southern tofu After being processed by knife skills, it is first fried in lard oil, then thickened and stewed over low heat. It is smooth but not greasy, tender and rich in flavor, very subtle. Banpu tastes heavy in oil and sugar, like eggs. I like to eat swollen eggs. When eating rice cakes, they should also be soaked in lard and add more sugar. Rock sugar must also be used when grilling pig's trotters. "Soaking" is also a way of eating. Noodle rolls soaked in hoof and tripe soup are not chicken tripe, but pig's trotters. Like Xi'an Mutton Soup Mo , eat it in instant noodles rolls. The big pig head must be smoked whole to achieve the effect of sticking to the mouth but not rotting. There is also an old duck, also whole. They are all sacrificial customs left over from sacrifices. Nowadays, Doudan is attracting tourists from all over the world. It was only in the 1980s that a few restaurants began to try it. It was only after the liberation that people started to make brands for dog meat and jelly.

The banquets in Banpu and Guanyun are like soup and water. Hoof tripe soup, old hen soup, if you are tired of eating, have a bowl of mustard soup. The most beautiful thing is the Shaguang Fish Soup. Shaguang fish is a specialty of the Yellow Sea waters. It is mostly produced at the junction of saltwater and freshwater, and is especially widely distributed along the coast of Lianyungang. Sand light fish is also a local name. Its genus is Goby, which feeds on shrimps, so its meat is tender and tastes particularly delicious. Shaguang fish soup is the most natural milk soup. It is as thick as milk, fresh but not fishy. Shaguangyu is also known as Dilong and Tianlang. It once won the Jiangsu Culinary Gold Award for its leading soup. There is a folk saying that "October Shaguang Races Sheep Soup". If you choose any dish that can be called the "Master of Cooking", this dish should be the first choice, and it can be called "the best soup in the world."