From this bowl of “rotten meat noodles” from the old Peking in the Republic of China, you can taste Beijing’s century-old history of the rise and fall of life.
Everyone has to have a little hobby, or give yourself something from time to time Children are rewarded, so that the life can be lived in a good way.
Zhang Dai of the Ming Dynasty also said: "People have no hobbies and cannot be friends, because they are not affectionate." Of course, the "hobbies" he said are very particular, and his friends usually have them. "Renminbi players" of various preferences.
Although "we can't imagine the happiness of the rich", even if there is no money, you can "happiness", so those "happiness" that can be bought without spending a lot of money are called " Happy for the poor".
During the Republic of China, people began to have higher expectations for life, but they were stretched financially, so some cheap but greedy food, some inexpensive but nice and fun performances, some cheap but good-service leisure places ( Such as teahouses, baths, two meat shops, etc.), these so-called "poor people's music" gradually emerged.
Of course, there are many people who have taken "the happy of the poor" to the extreme, which breaks the boundary between the "poor and the rich" and only highlights the word "le".
Therefore, the cheap and delicious Ermian shop "Hutchison" at the door is also Lu Xun's favorite; if you can sing well, you will naturally be praised by fans from all walks of life. Son", many market snacks, the rich still have to stand with the poor in line to buy.
In fact, all living beings in every era need a bowl of "rotten meat noodles" that can comfort their hearts and fill their stomachs.
And the bowl of "rotten meat noodles" that belongs to us today may be a cup of milk tea, maybe a piece of snail powder, or a lipstick.
A bowl of "rotten meat noodles", tastes the century-old flavor of the old Peking.
Chinese people are most concerned about "food is the sky for the people", and Maslow's hierarchy of needs theory also says "If one person is at the same time Lack of food, safety, love and respect, the demand for food is usually the strongest", so no matter when and where, a bowl of steaming food is considered "just need".
Marinated
"Er Nian Pu" is a small shop selling "meat dishes", usually pork, beef and mutton, chicken and some "water" meat, etc., this counts as one In addition, the cook can also provide a "stir-fried dish" service, that is, guests bring their own ingredients and spend a small amount of money to let the kitchen help to prepare them.
Both "Erminpu" and "Big Tea House" that provide simple meals began in the Qing Dynasty. The word "大" in "Big Tea House" does not mean large scale, but a transliteration of the Manchu pronunciation.
In the Qing Dynasty, Peiping was a political center, with a large influx of scholar-officials, but they did not have the economic strength to migrate their families, so they usually lived in the guild hall. Most of them also have some spare money in their hands, so they become frequent visitors to various entertainment venues such as tea houses and restaurants.
The Qing Dynasty novel "Pin Hua Bao Jian" has a record of Ermianpu:
"I was at an Ermianpu, because I broke up, I would like to help. Guanyuan.”
The author Chen Sen once visited Beijing during the Daoguang period. It can be seen that Ermenpu was very common in that period.
In the Republic of China, with the decline of the Qing Dynasty, the literati class gradually collapsed. Some of the Yemenites of the Manchu people declined. They were no longer generous in their hands. Large entertainment venues were basically unaffordable, while cheap tea houses and Ermenpu, as the only affordable place for people, survived and even thrived.
Coolies also need to make a tooth sacrifice
During the Republic of China, in addition to farmers who made a living from farming and talented people with higher knowledge, ordinary families can only rely on their families to live. Zhuang laborers go out to "work hard" to make a living, so often only the headed men work hard outside.
This kind of job distribution determines the family status of a man who can "work hard", but of course he can't just care about himself outsideHappy eating, after all, there is still a big family waiting for him to buy rice and cook it.
Therefore, it’s a great enjoyment to be able to take the tooth-fighting ceremony outside every other time.
So, this kind of "coolies" can be regarded as regular customers of teahouses and Ermenpu.
In fact, people at that time worked hard all day just to make a "chew the valley". If you can drink a bowl of hot tea and rest your feet, eating some meaty food would be more comfortable.
So, at this time, a very famous "poor people's happy" delicacy-rotten meat noodles appeared.
Quyi historian and folk literary artist Jin Shoushen said in "Life in Old Beijing":
"Er Cun Shop has a kind of Beijing-only food, which is rotten meat noodles. It is shaped like a marinated noodle with a lighter marinade, no meat slices are used, and other ingredients are not very complete, but it has a special flavor."
For a bowl of rotten meat noodles, the big family once ate sad mixed with comfort. The poor eat for enjoyment and hope for tomorrow, while the "Huang Fatty" in Mr. Lao She's "Teahouse" eats face. And triumphant.
Food will be brewed and fermented along with history. In the same bowl of rotten meat noodles, we can taste the century-old history of Peking’s rise and fall, and we can also taste the various emotions of life in the world.
A bowl of “rotten meat noodles” has a small heart, but it is really fragrant.
As a famous writer who loves Peking, Mr. Lao She has vividly restored the details of Peking’s life in many works. He naturally does not Put more descriptions of "rotten meat noodles".
"Rotten Meat Noodles" can almost be regarded as the most impressive food in "Tea House".
"Tea House" Huang Fatty
As soon as the beginning of the article, the "Yellow Fatty" driving an eagle said: "One person, one bowl of rotten meat noodles...with me Huang Fatty No one can fight.”
This is what we often say now: “There is nothing in the world that cannot be solved by a barbecue.”
Mr. Lao She said:
"Thirty-fifty thugs, the people in the tune talk all the time, drink a bowl of tea, eat a bowl of rotten meat noodles, and you can turn the fight into jade."
It can be seen that there is nothing to solve a bowl of rotten noodles No, if there is one, just have another bowl.
Drama "Teahouse"
Manchu's Chang Siye saw the women who wanted to sell their daughters to survive, and said to the teahouse guy: "Li San, call two rotten meat noodles, take them Go outside to eat.”
and want to open a "big factory" to save the country. After seeing this scene, Chang Siye commented that Chang Siye is "a bowl of rotten meat with eyes and heart."
It is true that Chang Siye and "Fatty Huang" rely on a bowl of rotten meat noodles to solve their problems, and their help to others is only a bowl of rotten meat noodles.
Although the status is different, the four masters of Chang Si Ye and Fatty Huang in the book do indeed have similar market minds.
However, Chang Siye's bowl of rotten meat noodles has indeed solved the urgency of the two women.
And this bowl of "rotten meat noodles" is really fragrant.
The guy is picking noodles
"Rotten meat noodles", as the name suggests, there is no whole piece of "good meat" inside, usually with muscles, bones, bones, etc. The ingredients (if you have leftovers such as beef, sheep and donkey meat, you can also use the same), carefully stewed by the chef with spices, and a bowl of noodles is delicious and warm.
Of course, even "rotten meat" will not give much, usually the guy picks a column of thin flat noodles from the hot pot for the guests, first pour a spoonful of old soup, and pour the second When I spooned it with a few pieces of minced meat, it happened to fall on the surface.
This bowl of rotten meat noodles, it is a typical coarse food, the aroma of bone marrow has been simmered and melted in the old soup, eating a bowl of noodles, the soup is thick and hot, it is like opening up the stomach, the whole body Comfortable.
In fact, the best way to make rotten meat noodles is "Ermenpu". Compared with the "big teahouse" selling tea and rice, "Ermenpu" is professional, and even the chefs in many big restaurants are "Erunpu" "'S background.
So don't underestimate Ermianpu, and don't underestimate "rotten meat noodles".
Many times, when people are full, the problem naturally disappears.
Just as Mr. Lao She wrote in "The Biography of Niu Tianci":
"A person can eat noodles, and he can add halogen, and he will live."
一碗“烂肉面” can't hold a good “corner”
People who still think about food, usually also love life, and those who love life, no matter how poor, they need some spiritual entertainment.
Therefore, although life is hard to reach, it did not delay the development of Peking Opera. At the beginning, Peking Opera performances, which belonged to the "poor people's music" with Dagu and other operas, developed into the Republic of China and became a fashion trend.
And the "top stream" in the Peking Opera world has appeared, and fans are coming from all directions, and the way of chasing stars and supporting roles is no less than that of the current "rice circle" girls.
谭鑫培
The actors of the Republic of China are divided into front desk, backstage, martial arts, literary, artistic, economic, etc., by fans They are organized simultaneously or staggered.
The front desk is to give gifts to your idols and plaques, which is equivalent to presenting banners and pennants.
Backstage support. Generally, people who have the ability to communicate with the theater owner, work hard on the order of appearance of the "corner" or the scene, and those who can sing the "big axis" will never "finish the axis". If you find out at the same time If there is a competitor in the segment, then a "hard play" must be arranged for the "corner". This is very similar to the current "rice circle" "removal".
Wu Peng is a group of people who buy the best seats. They shout hello to their "corners" at the most appropriate moments, and "corners" come off the stage. No matter who is behind, stand up and go. The purpose is to create vacancies so that everyone knows who is buying tickets for.
Wen Peng, just like today’s spontaneous advocacy of advocacy. As soon as the tickets for the performance of "Jiaoer" were opened, fans sent to the newspapers various propaganda articles written by themselves, and the performance of "Jiaoer" At the end, fans wrote reviews overnight, and sometimes airmailed them to places where folk arts were flourishing in Shanghai and Tianjin, trying to see the newspapers at the same time. Only then did they see the reputation of "Jiaoer".
It’s difficult to hold art. You need to understand the drama very well, find a suitable repertoire for "Jiaoer", and even adapt the plot lines to highlight the advantages and skills of "Jiaoer", and the economy is very good. Understanding is to "spend money". In fact, all the previous support is inseparable from the economic backing, and the "backup groups" of the "corners" also have "funds" for the fans.
Newspaper publicity
This is a "famous role", but artists who do not sing well have to survive. If no one supports it, it will really lose face. I can only hold myself.
So there was a saying that "rotten meat noodles" was playing.
This means that the actor is afraid that he may not be able to sell his seats when he first arrived, so he invited some poor people to eat a bowl of "poor people's happy" food such as rotten meat noodles. Watching the scene, helping to cheer.
However, these people usually don’t go to the theater very much, and the way of shouting is not very authentic, and they can hear it when they listen to the drama, because the real fans usually like to hum and practice their voices. , So not only know exactly where to shout good, but also the words are full of tune, which is so nice.
So, for this kind of mediocre singing, the artist who spends a small amount of money to "buy fans" is also called "rotten meat noodle".
And everyone gradually understands that if Jiaoer’s skill is not at home, no matter how hard it is to hold it, it will be in vain. The best ending is "a flash in the pan", which is far worse than a bowl of "rotten meat noodles". .
With the end of the Republic of China era, "Er Cunpu" and "Big Tea House" gradually disappeared. When Quyi went through the waves and washed the sand, all that was left was the essence.
Today, Fengyue has become a shadow of the Republic of China, but even this bowl of "rotten meat noodles" from the old Peking of the Republic of China can recall the ups and downs and bitter joy of that era.
Now, people’s entertainment methods and living standards have undergone earth-shaking changes. Perhaps today’s happiness can no longer distinguish between the rich and the poor, and the "music for the poor" has also transformed into "popular music", but the same The thing is, each of us still has to find our own "little luck" in life.
Whether it’s a bowl of rotten meat noodles, or a piece of filet mignon, whether it’s a Beijing review, or an opera ballet, whether it’s a tube of lipstick or a big luxury bag, you always have to find The comfort that suits you can be coffee or garlic.
Only in this way can we still feel "worthy on earth" in a difficult time and in the temporary gloom.
Come on, friends, let’s have a bowl of rotten meat noodles, let’s move on.
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