If you don't eat the fish, you will eat the carp in the river. For happy events in life such as bridal chamber flowers and candles and the inscription on the gold medal list, the sweet and sour carp in the shape of "leap over the dragon gate" is a must-have at the Shandong banque

If you don't eat the fish, you will eat the carp of the river. During happy events such as bridal chamber flowers and candles and gold medal inscriptions, the "leap over dragon gate" shaped sweet and sour carp is a must-have dish at the Shandong banquet.

"Jinan Prefectural Chronicles " has long recorded that "carps from the Yellow River and crabs from Nanyang are included in recipes". According to historical data, Yellow River carp has become a famous food more than 3,000 years ago. Sweet and sour carp originated in Luokou, Jinan, and later spread to Shanxi, Henan and other places.

Deng Junqiu, senior cook of Yanxitang , was interviewed by reporters. Photo by Li Mingrui

"The mouth is open, the gills are open, the fins are open, and the belly is open." Sikai is the gold standard for testing the shape of sweet and sour carp. Deng Junqiu, a senior cook at Yanxitang, said that the most difficult aspects of this dish are to create the auspicious shape of the carp leaping through the dragon gate, and to prepare a thick sauce with moderate sweetness and sourness.

Walk into the Qushuiting neighborhood with the most old Jinan style, where "every house has spring water and every house has weeping willows." As a representative restaurant in the glorious period of Shandong cuisine, Yanxitang, an old Shandong cuisine restaurant founded in 1932, is hidden in Jinju Lane in the neighborhood.

Deng Junqiu fished out the red-tailed Yellow River carp that had been lean for a week from the spring pond. Photo by Li Xin

"Using Yellow River carp as food material, it is deep-fried and then drizzled with juice. The fish is charred on the outside and tender on the inside, with a sweet and sour taste and a slightly salty taste." Deng Junqiu said that in order to remove the muddy smell from the Yellow River carp, Each fish must be kept lean in the Yongyuan Spring Pool in the courtyard for about a week before being put into the pot.

Remove the fishing line, make seven knives on the top and eight knives on the bottom, "as the saying goes 'seven up and eight down'". Photo by Li Xin

Fishing in the spring pond, scraping the fish scales, removing the internal organs, pulling out the fishing line, and making seven cuts on the top and eight cuts on the bottom. "As the saying goes, 'seven up and eight down', it is as deep as the backbone of the fish, so that the effect of the carp jumping over the dragon's gate can be achieved." Deng Junqiu introduced while skillfully operating on the chopping board.

Use your hands to break the carp's skeleton to the required arc for the shape. Photo by Li Xin

The carp skeleton is wrapped in batter that is as silky as good cheese. After the oil was 70% hot, Deng Junqiu pulled the carp's tail and belly with both hands to shape it in the oil pan. "There are spots of oil on your hands, but you can't let it go as soon as it's hot. You have to hold on until it's basically set before you can use the iron chopsticks to support it."

After the oil was 70% hot, Deng Junqiu pulled the carp's tail with both hands. Put the belly in the pan and let it set in the oil pan. Photo by Li Xin

"It must be fried thoroughly so that it can be charred and crispy on the outside." Deng Junqiu said that when the fish is golden brown, take it out, shape it on a plate, and finally top it with a thick mixture of minced garlic, vinegar, sugar, and corn starch. Juice, fragrant. "This dish also has four blessings. The ear blessing is the sizzling sound when the hot sauce is poured on the fish; the eye blessing is the auspicious shape; the mouth blessing is the moderate sweet and sour taste; and the stomach blessing is the carp's high protein content and human digestion. High absorption rate. "

Carp is set in the oil pan. Photo by Li Xin

After about 25 minutes, the fish head and tail were raised high, with a unique shape, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, sweet and sour carp. Behind this is Deng Junqiu’s 40 years of experience in Shandong cuisine. A day of study and inheritance.

"My mother said that I grew up in the big bamboo basket used to serve steamed buns in Yanxitang." Deng Junqiu said that after many ups and downs, he has persisted until now. Over the years, diners have become friends and want to work here until they can no longer work.

Take the fish out when it is golden brown, shape it on a plate, and finally top it with a thick sauce mixed with minced garlic, vinegar, sugar, and corn starch in proportion. The aroma is fragrant. Photo by Li Xin

In 1990, Deng Junqiu officially became a disciple of Cui Yiqing, a master of Shandong cuisine. Deng Junqiu, who came from a professional background, has always kept in mind his master's teachings, which is to put people first when cooking. From selecting materials to cutting skills, from making soup to frying, from cold dishes to hot stoves, no corners are cut.

After entering the 21st century, calls for revitalizing Shandong cuisine have been heard. Deng Junqiu believes that people currently pursue taste bud stimulation and fast food too much, which is harmful to health. Shandong cuisine used to be a palace cuisine, with exquisite selection of ingredients, decent atmosphere, peace and health. Most banquets in northern China are based on Shandong cuisine. Shandong cuisine is also using central kitchen to prepare dishes to speed up the preparation time to adapt to the pace of modern life.

For happy events in life such as bridal chamber flowers and candles and being named on the gold medal list, the sweet and sour carp in the shape of "leap over the dragon gate" is a must-order dish at the Shandong banquet, which means jumping into the dragon gate. Photo by Li Xin

In the evening, in Jinju Alley, three or five diners have already arrived at the store according to their reservations. First, grab a watermelon from Yongyuan Spring to cool off, chat with Master Deng, and wait for the delicious food. "This kind of life is very Jinan." said the old diners of Yanxitang.

(China News Network Author: China News Service reporter Li Xin)