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Shepherd's purse
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- Shepherd's vegetarian field -
In the wild vegetable kingdom, shepherd's purse is considered a star. There is no one who doesn't know shepherd's purse. Few people don't like the taste of shepherd's purse, especially literati, such as Wang Zengqi, Zhou Zuoren , Zhang Jie . The love for shepherd's purse has almost become a complex, hiding the taste and experience of childhood. This love permeates their articles and becomes a fermentation agent. People who read the articles have no resistance and are all tempted by the taste of shepherd's purse.
Most people living in the city first understand shepherd's purse through reading the article, and then taste the taste of shepherd's purse. This makes it easy to misunderstand that shepherd's purse is a wild vegetable in spring and can only be eaten when the flowers bloom in spring. No wonder, when it comes to wild vegetables, people will think of spring - wild vegetables are grass that can be eaten. In winter, everything is bleak and the grass in the fields is withered, so how can there be wild vegetables?
But shepherd's purse is just a naughty man. Before the solar term of Xiaoxue has been over, it can't wait to grow out. It grows in the vegetable field, squeezing with green vegetables, radish , spinach, and garlic seedlings. It can be said that it is unconscious and has made good friends.
At this time, shepherd's purse can be seen everywhere in the vegetable field. Walking in the ditch, the shepherd's purse is also stepped on under her feet. The shepherd's purse in the ditch is very wise. It puts the leaves close to the ground (the villagers also call it , ), as if it wants to hide in the soil. It doesn't matter if people walk around on shepherd's purse, and they won't hurt them.
No one can hurt something close to the ground unless it is dug up at the root.
The stems and leaves of shepherd's purse growing in the gutter and facing the sun are rust red, which is quite similar to the color of the soil. It looks old and haggard, but the taste is delicious, so it absorbs enough sunshine. The shepherd's purse, which is squeezed together with the spinach garlic sprouts, looks different, fat and green, and does not look like a wild vegetable. Before sowing the vegetable seeds, the owner put the vegetable field with enough fertilizer. Once the shepherd's purse seeds that flew from somewhere, they would get the same treatment as the vegetable seeds.
Seeds are the secret of nature, waiting for growth in time. For soil, all seeds are seeds, no difference, no difference between home and wild. The so-called home-cooked vegetables are just because people distinguish them.
- Father's vegetable field -
I have heard shepherd's purse call in the vegetable field, as if in my childhood, I heard the calls of my friends from a long way from a distance: Limin, come out to play, come out to play... As long as I hear this sound, I can't stay at home and sneak out while the adults are not paying attention.
There is a ginkgo tree next to the vegetable field. The sun in the afternoon shines on the leaves that have not yet fallen, and it is the last handful of gold coins that the season holds in the palm of your hand.
As soon as I arrived at the vegetable field, my father came over and told me: "Pick it from my own field, don't go to other people's fields."
Although shepherd's purse is wild vegetables, it is inappropriate to squat in other people's vegetable field and dig it with scissors.
Half of the people's vegetable fields in the village are at the entrance of the village, with rows next to each other, without obvious boundaries, so it is easy to make mistakes. I just missed it and regarded other people's vegetable fields as my home.
Strange. When I was a child, I came to pick vegetables every day, but I never missed it.
"Yesterday, Baoyu came to pick ." The father said, "When Baoyu saw that there was a lot of shepherd's purse in my field, he said that her son liked to eat shepherd's purse dumplings , so he took a basket to pick it. I couldn't say anything. In fact, these shepherd's purse are the seeds I sow, so I'll keep it waiting for you to come back to pick it."
Baoyu's house is at the entrance of the village. When my sister-in-law and I entered the vegetable field, she came over and asked us to pick shepherd's purse in her field.
This is how my father is, he has a weak face. If he had a mother, he would definitely say to the truth that shepherd's purse was planted by himself, so he would wait for the children to come back to pick it.
Mother will not talk in a circle, and she doesn’t know how to show mercy to others, which is very offensive. My father followed behind to smooth things over and compensated him.
. My mother didn't buy her father's account at all, saying that her father was turning his elbow outwards when he was looking at someone else.
Every time I go home, I have to listen to my mother’s accusation against her father, of course, I carry my father on my back. As soon as my father appears, my mother stops talking and pretends to say nothing.
At first I argued for my father and advised my mother not to care about it, which even more angered my mother and felt that I was against her. Later I just listened without making any judgments about right and wrong.
Mother needs someone to listen to her, she needs my ears, not my voice.
What my mother said over and over again is what it boils down to: her father is an enemy of her throughout his life. But she couldn't live without her father - only this enemy can stay by her side and take care of her. Her children are just guests of this family. They can't stay for a short period of time and can't be with them day and night.
As long as it doesn’t rain, my father will stay in the vegetable field, which can not only avoid mother’s nagging, but also exercise his muscles and bones. Because of this vegetable field, my father lived a stable life. This sense of ease was given to him by the land, and the crops he planted grew as scheduled.
My father is a fun person and has no hobbies. For his father, he is content as long as he prepares his meal every morning, eats, works in the vegetable field as usual, removes weedings under the sun, plants something, and picks something, and is content.
- The taste of shepherd's purse -
As a star in the wild vegetable industry, shepherd's purse has various ways to eat it. Cut into pieces and make dumplings, make wontons, fried spring rolls, add rice noodles and minced meat to steam the rice dumplings, add tofu and mushrooms to make soup.
If you want to serve a banquet, make a cold dish, mix diced tofu or chopped peanuts, or pick the whole tree into a hot pot and eat it hot.
Shepherd's purse has been picked too much and can be dried. Soak it in the water when eating, put it under the bacon, put it in a steamer, and slowly suck the salty aroma of the bacon in the boiling steam... There are no regulations on the cooking method, it depends entirely on people's taste and interest, either rough, fine, simple, or luxurious, and heavy makeup, which is better than surprise.
I have a friend who goes to the vegetable market to buy fresh shepherd's purse, pick off the yellow leaves, wash, blanch, chop, mix in chopped meat paste, a small amount of minced ginger and salt, and no other seasonings are added. She said that if you put too much seasoning, it will destroy the original fresh fragrance of shepherd's purse. Next is to make dumplings. The dumpling skin was bought in the vegetable market, which saved the cumbersomeness of hand-rolling - she couldn't roll the skin. She is from southern Anhui and has been using rice as the main food since she was a child.
packed hundreds of shepherd's purse dumplings in one go, packed in fresh bags, put them in the refrigerator for freezing. Every weekend thereafter, the shepherd's purse dumplings were her dinner.
Once, she was having a free meal at her and asked her why she likes to eat shepherd's purse dumplings so much. No matter how delicious the food is, she will get tired of eating too much. She paused and said, "I don't know why, it's hard to explain the reason for people's love for a taste."
"It may also be related to an early experience." After a while, she said slowly.
When she was young, she had a long-distance relationship. On weekends, she would take the train to another city to meet her lover. At that time, it was still green train . She got on the bus in the morning and it was dusk when she got off. Her lover was on the platform, facing the sunset, waiting for her, the two of them walked hand in hand, walked out of the station, went to a handmade dumpling shop, bought two shepherd's purse dumplings, and then walked hand in hand, crossed two streets to reach their residence.
Their relationship is not long, only half a year. She remembered that the last time she went to his city was when cherry blossoms were in full bloom. They went to see the cherry blossoms. It was windy that day, and every gust of wind was covered with fragments of cherry blossoms, throwing them in large orders.
"So good, why is it over?" Hearing her quiet narration, it was quite regretful.
"After seeing the cherry blossoms, he was gone." she said. An accident took him away.
She said she never went to that city again, but she retained this habit until she got married, had children, divorced, and the child grew up and went out to study. It was still the case in the past twenty years - eating shepherd's purse dumplings on winter weekends.
I also like to eat shepherd's purse dumplings, but I don't know how to wrap them. My hands are too stupid and I can't learn that clever grasp no matter what.The stuffing is not done well, I don’t know what’s wrong, so I can’t make the deliciousness unique to the shepherd’s purse filling.
All I can do is to go to the wild field to pick shepherd's purse - this is something I like, more than my liking for the taste of shepherd's purse. When I walked into the wilderness where few people came, squatted down, and faced the shepherd's purse that was born close to the ground, the world immediately became quiet.
- The beauty of shepherd's purse -
The seeds of shepherd's purse are beautiful, small and flat, heart-shaped, and the wind shakes and falls into the soil. The seeds that fall into the soil are the color of the soil. No one knows how many shepherd's purse seeds are hidden in the dark soil.
The flowers of shepherd's purse are beautiful, and there is a saying among the people that "the third day of March, shepherd's purse is better than peony". This statement is actually a bit exaggerated. The beauty of shepherd's flower has nothing to do with beauty, but is simple and friendly, and is naive and wild.
The taste of shepherd's purse is of course even more beautiful, and it is not too much to praise it. "Who says that the bitterness of the tea is as sweet as shepherd's purse." This sentence comes from the sentence " Book of Songs ", which is the most classic praise for the taste of shepherd's purse.
Su Dongpo also said that shepherd's purse "although it is not willing to be satisfied with the five flavors, it has the beauty beyond the flavor." When he was demoted to the public, Mr. Dongpo invented a dish called Dongpo Soup. He picked shepherd's purse and radish from the garden in early spring, added rice and cooked it into vegetable porridge. After eating, he picked up a pen and wrote a letter to his friend, "It's so beautiful to eat shepherd's edible today..."
When talking about Dongpo Soup, he thought of the seven-grass porridge in Japan. There are also shepherd's purse and radish in the Qicao porridge, and there are also Baogai grass , Fanluo , Rat roe , wild water celery and syrup (cabbage).
Japanese writer Liu Zongmin wrote about the seven-grass porridge in " Weed Records ": "The seven-grass sprout in autumn, covered with green leaves and crossed the cold winter, which is a symbol of tough character." Therefore, in Japanese customs, seven-grass will be picked on January 7, chopped, and cooked into porridge. January 7 is people's day. People's day is human birthday. On this day, eating seven-grass porridge will be free from illness or disaster for the whole year.
Mr. Liu said that Qicao porridge is also called Qicao shepherd, because shepherd's purse is the crown of Qicao: "The unique taste of Qicao porridge is the taste of shepherd's... In the green and yellow winter, the jagged green leaves can always arouse people's appetite."
I have never eaten Dongpo soup, nor have Qicao porridge, either cook it in a pot in spring. I know all the seven plants in the seven grass porridge. I have always known each other. I can pick them by going to the vegetable field and the river.
Most shepherd's purse after spring has been budged, and the shepherd's purse that has been budged can also be eaten. Remove the stems in the middle and leave its leaves and roots. Even if the leaves of shepherd's purse look scorched, it doesn't matter. They turn green when blanched in boiling water, which is amazing.
In southern Anhui, it rarely snows heavily in winter nowadays. It seems that something is blocking the road, delaying the trip. Often when it is spring, heavy snow appears and falls from the sky. At this time, it is the time when shepherd's purse, chili wis, treasure grass... and mother-in-law keeps bringing out the flowers.
When it blooms, it doesn’t matter if it encounters heavy snow. Don’t be afraid. Just stand in the snow and put the snow on your head like a hat. The snow in spring is gentle and will not turn into ice cubes , turn into swords, hurting them.
No matter how heavy the snow is in spring, it melts overnight. The snow hat of the flowers is gone, turning into water, flowing away, flowing into the stream, flowing into the river. Only the last drop was left, shiny, and I couldn't bear to leave. It hung on the petals, and it was still hanging there when the sun came out.
- END -
Author Profile: Xiang Liming, born in the 1970s, is a natural literature writer. He once lived on the shore of Taiping Lake in southern Anhui and now lives by the Puxi River on the northern foot of Huangshan Mountain. He has carefully observed, photographed and recorded his hometown and natural ecology for a long time, and faced the ecology of people's hearts and spirits. He is deeply loved by readers in the field of life aesthetics. He has published "Linhu: Notes on Photography of Taiping Lake", "Old Time in the Utensils", "A Man's Lake", "A Year in the Mountains", "A Year in the Puxi River", "Living Like a Pumpkin", etc.
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