Beibu Gulf : Rice Noodle Shop by the Sea
is in Shengtang Village, Weizhou Island, Beihai. His eyes crossed the rows of benches. Looking out, you can see the two words "snail noodles" on the shop opposite, and the word "snail" is covered by the dense branches and leaves of Banyan tree . Banyan trees have been around for decades. At this location, not only one banyan tree has been planted, but the violent degree of the sea breeze determines the age of the tree.
Sister Huang sat in front of the cashier of snail noodle store, a little bored. The yellow wind warning has already stopped passenger ships between Beihai and Weizhou Island , with few tourists. Sister Huang is from Shengtang Village and speaks Hakka dialect. Their ancestors were the Hakka people at the junction of Fujian, Guangdong. After the sea ban was opened during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, they followed French missionaries to the island to reclaim wasteland, which has continued to this day.
On November 1, Sister Huang and her relatives who returned to the island went to visit the graves. They went to the east coast of Weizhou Island to repair the graves and offer flowers. "There is a special boat to pick them up to visit the graves because there are too many people," said Sister Huang.
Fishing Port of Weizhou Island
Sister Huang returned to the island this year. The salary of employees on the island's store is generally 4,000 to 5,000 yuan a month. The same job in Beihai, with a salary of two or three thousand yuan, which is half the loss, because the island is "expensive". The ingredients used in the snail noodle shop where Sister Huang is located, except for the conch used for making soup and the Pipi shrimp used as side dishes, are all shipped from the sea. Sister Huang hardly eats snail noodles. She drinks porridge for breakfast, and her taste is similar to that of Cantonese cuisine. But the sour and sour power of snail noodles has swept across the north and south in recent years. At this time, a local from Beihai entered the store and said in vernacular, "If you want a bowl of snail noodles, you must be super spicy."
Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop is located in Nanwan Street, Weizhou Island, and may be the southernmost rice noodle shop in Guangxi. The south windows can see the sea. At night, the fishing boats flashed with red and green lights, docked in the bay, waiting for the strong wind to pass. The tide was early these days, and many people followed the exposed sea route to Zhuziling to catch the sea. Crocodile Mountain half-huns the bay. There is Standaring Island in the southeast, but there is no restaurant on the island. From autumn to spring, Brzewallows will appear on the sea, spewing beautiful water splashes.
The owner of Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop in Weizhou Island Lin Binyang (right) and his brother Lin Junyang (left) The "Xiaolin" in the
Mi Noodle Shop refers more to the younger brother Lin Binyang. My brother Lin Junyang came to Weizhou Island to serve as a soldier and stayed on the island after he was discharged from the army. My younger brother Lin Binyang came to the island from his hometown of Luzhai, Liuzhou, and opened a rice noodle shop. My younger brother is the chef of the main spoon. On the restaurant list, the top of the list is Liuzhou snail noodle , then Guilin rice noodle , Laoyou noodles , and pig's feet noodles... In 2013, when it opened, snail noodle was not well known to the residents and tourists on the island. The customer would say that the powder is so smelly, but he also wanted to eat it when pinching his nose. Some customers said not to sour bamboo shoots. Kobayashi said, OK. But it was released. Ask the guest, is it still smelly? The guest said it was no longer smelly. "You see, this is the psychological effect."
On Weizhou Island, Kobayashi soaks sour bamboo shoots in mineral water. He would think of the sour bamboo shoots soaked in mountain spring water in the countryside of Luzhai . In my hometown, almost every family makes sour bamboo shoots, and they call sour bamboo shoots "shopper fruit". Kobayashi Liuzhou accent Mandarin , the precise expression can only be expressed in dialect. For example, when he talks about frying pan, fried , , and fried pork feet, he uses the word "cat" (sound), which means "bulge". They are all fried, but the degree of "cat" of these three ingredients is different, and the softness and hardness are not the same, which needs to be grasped by the chef. Kobayashi Rice Noodle Shop is like a miniature beach rice noodle museum. This includes almost most of the types of Guangxi rice noodles . This means that Kobayashi needs to make more preparations every morning. In the morning, his father and brother were helping to fry char siu and in a pan. My wife and sister-in-law were serving various noodles. The whole family started the day in a busy day.
Early in the morning, a child who was in school came to eat noodles, and he ordered char snail noodles. There are many combinations in the store. There are many immigrants and tourists on the island, which require numerous flavors.
The Seventh Brother from Beihai is doing scientific research on the island. He comes to eat noodles almost every day, which is "simple and convenient". He loves snail noodles, old friends noodles, and pig's feet noodles the most. In the coastal areas of Guangxi, the rice noodles with more local characteristics are pork leech noodles.Brother Qi said that pig's feet can supplement the nutrition for a day, especially foot strength. People who are lying on the sea have very important feet. Only by having good feet can they avoid rheumatism and stand firm on the beaches and decks where winds are surging.
On November 8, when the triennial Mazu Festival on Weizhou Island arrived, there were fewer outsiders on the island, and more local villagers participated and watched. On the last night of Mazu Day, in front of the Tianhou Palace, everyone walked barefoot on the charcoal fire to drive away evil spirits and seek blessings, which was amazing. I asked the people who were watching this scene together, how did they do it? Others said that people at sea were walking barefoot on the deck all year round, and a thick layer of calluses appeared on the soles of their feet. But I still feel incredible when I saw the barefoot board passing by with my own eyes. I thought of foot strength.
Weizhou Island Mazu Festival, the lion dance team came to Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop Photo/ Southern People Weekly Reporter Wei Yi
Mazu Festival's strength is a test of physical strength. I was woken up by the sound of firecrackers and gongs and drums outside the hotel window at 3 a.m. The islanders gathered at 1 a.m. and started the Mazu outing at 3 a.m. The villagers of dozens of villages walked in different performances, and did not end until 11 a.m. The whole process exceeded 22 hours. The strong winds at level 59 of
html are more displayed on the sea surface and have weakened a lot when they blow onto the island. Kobayashi did not close the store and he felt that it was nothing. The crowd walking on the island didn't seem to worry either. The weather forecast is strong winds and heavy rains, but it does not seem like this, but the weather has become colder. By 11 o'clock on November 8, when the islanders completed their last stop tour under the fireworks of " Drops of Water Danping " under the sky, they were still as energetic as at 3 o'clock in the morning, and their expressions were almost unchanged.The owner of Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop in Weizhou Island, Lin Binyang and his wife, from the rear mirror of the electric car, you can see their Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop in the afternoon when there are few customers. Xiaolin asked me, do you know how much is the most expensive vegetable I have ever eaten? 15 yuan. In 2014, due to the historical record-breaking super typhoon of 17, the Weizhou Island was damaged, tens of thousands of people were affected, countless trees were lifted, ships were suspended, water and power were cut off on the island, and supplies were short of supplies. That was the hardest time on the island to spend all these years. Many islanders recall it like nightmare.
Adding vegetables to Kobayashi Rice Noodle Shop is 5 yuan, which is more than twice as high as outside the island. Prices, rents and labor are all high. The epidemic has made business difficult, but Kobayashi is willing to persevere. He loves food and has a talent for cooking. He thought about innovation, such as developing a seafood powder. He was interested in shrimp that fishermen could continue to supply, but the final design concept had not yet been formed and "the time had not come."
occasionally returns to Liuzhou, and Xiaolin will go and sautify noodles. He likes rice noodles in his bones. He will eat rice noodles he made himself. "Some rice noodle shop owners don't eat the food in their own shop. Why do you think?" Snail noodles pay attention to soup base. When he had supper with his family, the snail bone soup in the pot was already being cooked. He used small stone snail , which tasted better than field snail . Snails need to be transported from outside the island. He also tried to raise some snails in the deserted fields on the island. "Spread into the paddy fields and you will spread." The island is full of deserted fields.
There is no sight of the wind blowing rice waves here. Kobayashi asked his son where the rice came from, and his son said that the rice came from the pot. He thought about having the opportunity to take his children back to his hometown and rural areas to see rice, which was the original form of rice noodles.
Vanilla Island Crocodile Mountain
Agricultural practitioners are very few here. In previous years, when there were sugar factories on the island, farmers would grow sugarcane. The sugar factory is gone and bananas are grown, but the purchase price of bananas is too low, and the Shanghai wind is difficult to predict. The strong wind can make the entire island of banana trees fall, and few people plant bananas. Bananas were fed to chickens and called banana chickens, which became a dish. There used to be sea pig on the island, and grew up eating shrimps, crabs and fish on the beach. In order to protect the environment, pigs are no longer available to the beach. Even the right to raise chickens is reserved only by the strong demands of residents.
pork is shipped from outside the island. There are not many shops selling pork leech flour on the island. "The cost is too high, and we don't make money by selling pig's feet powder. It's basically a plain book," said Lin Junyang. He is in charge of the store's finances. Every day, Lin Binyang prepares about 20 pig's feet for the store and wears braised with lemongrass .When eating rice noodles, pulling lemongrass out of the crispy pork feet skin makes it feel indescribable to "heal".
If you use a rice noodle to represent Kobayashi rice noodle shop, I think it is pig's feet and snail noodles. The two brothers Kobayashi are from Liuzhou, and their wives are both natives from Weizhou Island. This rice noodles combines Liuzhou and Beihai flavors. Lin Junyang's wife is chatty. She remembered that the customers who came to the store within a few days knew what powder they ate at each table. "The foreign population drives spicy food, but locals don't eat spicy food." She said, "When I was a child, I ate pho noodles, put some pork liver, lean meat, vegetables and green onions, and add soybeans to make soup base." Lin Binyang, the owner of Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop in Weizhou Island, delivered takeout
Xiaolin Rice Noodle Shop, was the earliest store on the island to make snail noodles. Now there are more than a dozen more snail noodles stores on the island. Kobayashi thinks that it is a store opened by people from Liuzhou, so he cares about it. "It's really only locals who know what authentic taste is, it takes time." He believes that he has no competitors in making snail noodles on the island. He doesn't eat bags of snail noodles, and he feels that there is no concept of time. In his own noodle shop, he will change the concentration of the soup base according to the temperature and temperature of the weather. The weather is hotter and the weather is thicker. The pink has the atmosphere of four seasons. The event of
Mazu Festival continues, and Kobayashi hung lettuce and red envelopes at the door of the rice noodle shop. Dragon and Lion Dance team will come to grab the green and red envelopes. According to custom, you need to pay the Dragon Lion team, and this money will become the funding of Mazu Temple. Kobayashi said that she could not see such a scene during the Chinese New Year, nor could she see it in her hometown. He liked this scene, which reminded him of the past, just like a Liuzhou native came to the island and ate his snail noodles, saying that he remembered the taste of his childhood. "Remembering the taste of childhood" - it has almost become the highest standard for measuring the taste of a rice noodle shop.
Sister Huang, who returned to Weizhou Island, also recalled the past to me in her snail noodle shop. She would talk about the main means of transportation on the island when she was a child, which was a ox cart. She would talk about marrying to Dongxing . She has been in Dongxing for many years and started eating rice noodles there.
Huajie Chicken Noodle Shop in Dongxing, Guangxi
is in Dongxing, Fangchenggang, and the most famous rice noodle shop is Vietnamese chicken noodles. The most famous sells Vietnamese chicken noodles are Huajie Chicken Noodle Shop and Sanjie Chicken Noodle Shop. Chicken powder comes from Vietnam, and Vietnamese people also eat pork trotter powder. The exchanges on the border allow food culture to blend with each other. Due to the epidemic, the port in Dongxing has been closed for almost two years. Huajie Chicken Noodle Shop has Vietnamese employees. She went back to Vietnam for the New Year last year and has not been able to come yet. The rice noodles in Sanjie Chicken Noodle Shop was originally supplied by a rice noodles factory in Vietnam. In the past, suppliers traveled to and from Beilun River several times a day. Now, they can only use local rice noodles.
The owner of the Dongxing Sanjie Chicken Noodle Shop in Guangxi
Sanjie is optimistic and thinks that you make less money now, "What about making more money next year?" On the top floor of the hotel on the Dongxing border, you can see the vast mountains and seas on the Vietnam side. In the evening, wisps of smoke even rose on the southern bank of Beilun River. The owner and the clerk have never visited the top floor to see the view in the convenience store downstairs of the hotel. They think that it is better to have a better business and don’t have time to see the scenery. "It's two days to do business," the boss felt that it was still acceptable. On the same street, those stores selling mahogany and Vietnamese goods, "do business for one day in twenty days."
Dongxing Guomen in Guangxi, and in the distance is Vietnam
Nanning : Two thousand old friends' orders
In Nanning, the food business is much better done. There are many people coming from south to north here, and Nanning people are full of enthusiasm for eating. The rice noodle restaurant may have the largest variety in the country. Every meal is changed to eat different rice noodles, and it will not be repeated for a week. This is not an exaggeration. In other words, it is a great thing to be famous for rice noodle in Nanning, because there are too many rice noodle shops.
Laoyou Noodle Shop opened by Xie Beiquan is on Youai Road in Nanning, and everyone calls her Sister Beiquan. "Post-60s" Sister Bei Quan looks like an rock star, dyed purple hair, tied four ear piercings, and wore two earrings. Buy a dozen white chef clothes and throw them away if they are too dirty to wash them clean. I wake up every morning, wash my hair and blow my hair, and don’t want my hair to lie flat.Her husband went to open the door at 5 a.m., and she arrived at the store at 7:30 and cooked the noodles until 4:30 p.m. She cooked all the noodles in the store alone. During this period, you can eat or drink porridge while standing, as breakfast or lunch, and you cannot do it in one go, and you can score multiple times. She wore camouflage pants, like a quick meal during a marching . It was clean everywhere here, and every time after cooking the flour, a worker helped her wash the pot. The three pots in front of her did not have a fire on the surface. She could not tolerate black pot crumbs floating on the old friend's powder. If there were, she would pick them out one by one. When the flour is produced, she will carefully wipe off the oil from the edge of the bowl. Some customers said, don't wipe it. She said, please respect me, I cook delicious food, not just a bowl of powder that fills my stomach. The guest said that she saw her cooking powder as a work of art. She felt that's it.
Nanning, Sister Beiquan is cooking Laoyou Powder
On this November, Sister Beiquan is closing. When Sister Beiquan put her "artwork" on the flour stage, the person who bought rice noodles appeared half an hour later.
"You two, I want to criticize me." Sister Beiquan suppressed her anger, "After ordering, you left, and the powder was made."
"When I bought the ticket, I said, put it here after cooking, and I will come back to eat." The customer said impatiently.
"This bowl of old friend beef noodles has become eight taels. It is no longer a delicious food, do you understand?"
"I have to pay for it, you have to pay me, if you can't eat it, you will throw it away."
"Do you have to pay for it? You have to respect food, respect chefs, and respect all employees, it is not what you have to pay for it!"
Beiquan sister quarreled with the customer, and the voice became louder and louder. Then, her two apprentices came to the store. Sister Beiquan said that it would be nice to come early and you can see me quarrel with the guests. My apprentice came to find Sister Beiquan because she wanted to open a new store, but there was a senior brother and sister who had already opened an old friend's noodle shop, and my apprentice wanted to hear her opinions. My apprentice said, I run a Yulin Raw Material Noodle Shop. Sister Beiquan felt that this was acceptable. As long as you don’t open a Laoyou Noodle Shop, there will be no direct conflict. Sister Beiquan is following the rules and requires her apprentices to follow the rules, believing that this is the principle of being a human being. The word "old friend" of old friend powder is one of the origins of the word "old friend" is that this bowl of noodles is cooked for sick old friends. Sour bamboo shoots, chili peppers, fermented black beans and garlic rice are fried together to form the basic flavor of "old friends". Add raw ingredients and ingredients, and use bone soup to cook powder, which is full of "pot-air". This approach determines that it is almost difficult for Laoyou powder to make bagged powder. This is a bowl of fans that emphasize "on the scene". "I always ask customers not to look at their phones. It is best to eat old friends' fans within 5 minutes," said Sister Beiquan.
has been an old friend fan for many years. Sister Beiquan didn’t think about teaching others to be an old friend fan, but her first apprentice said that people will always retire and leave. Do you want your skills to be lost? After hearing this, Sister Beiquan felt it made sense. She started to accept apprentices, and now she has 11 apprentices, like a football team.
Nanning, the ballroom dance
Beiquanjie’s store is open from 7 am to 4 pm, but if there are too many customers, it will be a little later. No matter how busy she is, she will do all her old friends and fans by herself. This is an extremely rare sight in Chinese rice noodle shops. She is more like the ultimate requirement of a Japanese professional for himself. I told her about the documentary " Sushi God ". She said she knew and asked, is the old man still making sushi? She admires craftsmen.
She likes Anita Mui . She feels that she still goes on stage when she is most difficult. She likes people who work hard. "Will I fall to my job?" she asked herself more than once. She said she loved this old friend's career, and if there was such a day, she would have no regrets.
She didn't cry when she said this, but she cried two thousand orders. Because when you come to her store to eat noodles, you often wait for more than half an hour. The store can pay first to place an order, and you will have a priority opportunity next time. Many customers who are good at this old friend's fan will order in advance, but many people often order but don't come to eat. There have been more than 2,000 orders that have been paid for over the years. "This (order) is more important than anything else. If you lose your husband, you can't lose this."
Every morning, Sister Beiquan brings the box containing the order to the store and then takes it back tonight.Sister Beiquan has several WeChat messages, each with thousands of friends, in order to facilitate communication with customers, but she will not read them until after get off work. One night, a customer sent her a WeChat message saying that there was a list, could she find it? Sister Beiquan looked for it, but she couldn't find it. The customer sent a "smiling with his mouth" expression and said, "I went to eat today, thank you for keeping the order for so many years."
Beiquan Sister and two thousand old friends' fans orders Photo/Southern People Weekly reporter Wei Yi
Beiquan Sister said that if she decides to retire, she will call the customers who place the order one by one year in advance and urge them to come and eat noodles. She also told her husband that if something unexpected happened, she would have to handle these orders well. She thinks integrity is the most important. She is like an old friend who is a big sister in the world, and she will definitely do what she says.
If you want to stand firm in the world of rice noodles, you must have strength and characteristics. Someone wants to learn to be an old friend from Sister Beiquan and ask, can I do exactly the same as you? "I will not accept him as an apprentice for a person who asks such a question. It is impossible to be the same. Everyone has different experiences, so how can the things they make be the same? Everyone will put the same things differently, and there is no need to be the same."
Sister Beiquan has been herself. "Do you care whether I look ugly or not, whether I am frowned or not, you are here to eat quality." She dyed hair of different colors and tried many colors. She said she wanted to try green recently and she didn't care what others said.
She thinks she "does not care" about other people's opinions because she has seen the world and has such confidence. She has been engaged in catering for many years, and she worked in a night market more than ten years ago. There are all kinds of people in the night market. She has seen someone fighting with a steel pipe and a big chopping knife. Blood splattered on her clothes, and she had to take the guests to the hospital. "Anything that happens in the store must be taken care of."
she dared to criticize customers. "In my store, the customer is not God. I sell quality, not services. If you want to buy services, go to Haidilao ." She regards respect for food as an inviolable rule. When you get to her shop, you have to abide by her rules. She hung up a big sign on the flour table with a notice: "This store does not accept urgent orders or urge orders (refund the money directly because quality is more important than quantity. When you wait until you are full of resentment, any food is tasteless and cannot be amazing). This is also a kind of respect for both parties. Please understand a chef craftsman's persistence in food. In the face of food, you and I need patience. During the chef's production process, the chef will not respond to your consultation."
Beiquan Sister is a focused person and cannot be disturbed when making flour. Disturbate, refund the money. Complaint, refund the money. Speak loudly and refund the money. When she does things, she likes to do it in one go, "When she was a child, she was like this when she was painting at the beach."
is one thing that is easy to do every day, but it is not easy to do it every day. She did this almost every day. Over the years, she has only taken the high-speed train with her family to Guilin for three days, and when it rains, she "can't even see the nose of Elephant Trunk Hill ."
When Sister Beiquan wants to rest, she will post a notice at the door and will also inform her on WeChat. The clerk had one person to rest, and the whole shop rested. The last two days off, one was because an employee in the store wanted to have a wedding banquet, and one was because of Sister Beiquan’s husband’s 57th birthday. She will definitely not work on her rest days. This is her rule.
Beiquan sister’s rules never break. There was an exception this year.
This is a day off. The apprentice suddenly called her and said she wanted to come to the store to check it out. She said, "Master is resting today, you don't understand." The apprentice brought the newly acquired apprentice to the store door, so the master had to come back and open the door to train them. At this time, someone pushed the old mother in a wheelchair in and said that there were fans of old friends?
Beiquan sister said she had rested today and had not prepared bone soup. She would come again next time. The visitor said that if you can boil the powder in water, just eat it. Sister Beiquan said this is not OK, I will have a chance next time. The visitor said that there might be no chance next time. My mother was seriously ill and flew from Beijing to Nanning and flew back to Beijing in the afternoon.
Beiquan sister broke the example and started to make bone soup. She told the visitor that you don't have to pay. The visitor insisted on paying.Sister Beiquan said, don’t pay the bowl your mother ate, I’ll treat it. Halfway through the meal, Sister Beiquan saw him coming to the front desk to get tissues and wipe his tears. After eating the noodles, they went to the airport and returned to Beijing. Sister Beiquan received a WeChat message: "Hello Sister Beiquan, I am the one who brought my mother from Beijing. Thank you for making an exception for making an old friend's powder for her while resting in the store. It has been a 30-year-old case. From preparing ingredients now to bringing many apprentices, I have made a bowl of powder in my busy schedule, which has made me filial and made this cold world of money feel humane. Thank you for the powder you gave. I believe that more elderly people will continue their life journey with the good mood you have obtained from your heart. You also include me for your apprentices. One lesson. "
" Modern society is so fast, will anyone still use food to make a bowl of ordinary noodles?" Sister Beiquan sat at the table after closing, a little sad, and she quickly lifted up, "I don't regret it, I have a sense of accomplishment. Being an old friend fan has made my life's career reach its peak." Behind her, there are several "must-eat list" brands posted by Dianping.com . Every year, there are only more than ten Nanning restaurants that can be on the list. Another famous Nanning Laoyou Noodle Shop on the "Must Eat List" is Shuji Noodle Shop. Shuji Noodle Shop on Qixing Road is now open 24 hours a day, and the store doesn’t even have a door because it doesn’t have to close. I came here to eat noodles at 5 a.m. and still had to queue up, and people who were all night and early wanted to wake up through a bowl of noodles. Opposite Shuji Noodle Shop is Nanning First People's Hospital. Walking next to it, you will be the lively Zhongshan Road . This is a must-visit place for tourists to visit Nanning for a night snack, and Nanning people like to visit Jianzheng Road Night Market.
Nanning Zhongshan Road Food Street
On Jianzheng Road, Zhang Ke and her partner Liang Chenrui have a midnight snack here. Next to it is a famous rolled noodle shop. Liang Chenrui is from Heshan, Liuzhou and likes snail noodles. She has worked in Xi'an for many years. She and Zhang Ke jointly opened a snail noodle shop in Xi'an, using Nezha as the logo, named "Suhu Dabang", and made bags of snail noodles, which were packaged in cartoon illustration style. At that time, this was a novel packaging. Nowadays, cartoon illustration-style bagged snail noodles have almost become the standard.
Zhang Ke hosted a travel program on the radio in his spare time called "Traveling by One Person". She likes traveling, and she regards bags of snail noodles as a travel companion. At the end of 2019, she and her friends traveled to Japan. When she was spending the winter solstice in Kyoto, it was a snail noodle banquet. And when they returned to China, the epidemic broke out in Wuhan. They found ways to deliver bags of snail noodles to Wuhan and around them. During the epidemic, bagged snail noodles became famous and even spread overseas. Their micro-store is very small, but they also ship snail noodles to all parts of the world through sea transportation.
This year, the epidemic in Xi'an has been repeated, and their snail noodle shop can no longer hold on, so they had to close the store. "Fortunately, there are bagged snail noodles." This has allowed them to maintain a little interest in participating in the snail noodles industry.
Liuzhou: Snail noodle can be without noodles
In order to find delicious snail noodles, Zhang Ke and Liang Chenrui have visited too many snail noodle shops in Liuzhou. But the first Liuzhou rice noodle shop that Zhang Ke recommended me to eat was selling a kind of dry noodles , not snail noodles. This store is in the alley and is really inconspicuous. The notice of opening a new store is not written on paper, but is written directly on the wall with a pen. This noodle shop only sells one type of noodles, and it has been sold for 20 years and has not closed the store. Zhang Ke may appreciate this "stubborn" spirit, which makes this store a "miracle". The amount of noodles in Liuzhou snail shops is very large, and you can eat too much "one or two". I often hear customers ask for it - "less noodles, more vegetables", and some even don't even want noodles, just vegetables. At this dry rice noodle shop, many customers think this is the store with the least noodles in Liuzhou. On the top of the minced noodles, the "Dry Fruit Maxim" is written conspicuously: "You can't greedy for too much delicious food. If you have too much, you will feel tired of it, and if you have less, you will feel aftertaste. When you are still too short to be full, you will linger in the taste here. This is our goal to achieve together." The dry Fruit soup is posted: "This store is open for normal business during the Chinese New Year."
Many rice noodle shops in Liuzhou are open in such an inconspicuous place.Find Ajiao snail noodles in Liuzi Community, as if you find Freddy's rib shop on the streets of " House of Cards " in " House of Cards ". The store has a relaxing and casual atmosphere everywhere. The owner of Ajiao snail noodle shop in Liuzi Community is called Qin Shenjiao and her family,
Ajiao snail noodle. The storefront is their own house. It was already the hour of midnight snacks, and most of the people came were young people. "Brother, what kind of food do you want?" "My sister, do you want Zi Su?" Qin Shenjiao greeted guests in Liuzhou dialect, as if in his own living room.
snail noodles usually require some vegetables to be added, even visually, they can neutralize the overly rich colors. The taste will also be a little more fresh. At night, there are only cauliflower. During the day, there are various vegetables to choose from.
At around 8 o'clock in the morning, Qin Shenjiao's son bought vegetables and picked them in the kitchen. My cousin who just arrived here to help was setting up tables and chairs outside, waiting for the guests to arrive. Qin Shenjiao is frying pork lungs and taro Meng. This is the characteristic of her family. Taro Meng is in some other places in Guangxi, also known as taro seedlings, which can be made into sauerkraut.
is approaching noon, and there are more people in the store. Qin Shenjiao was too busy at first. This is an open place. Some residents in the community were wearing pajamas and pushing a stroller to the kitchen to collect unused vegetable roots. I asked, what is this for? Answer, raise chickens. When there are many people, the pajama neighbor turns into a temporary clerk and goes into the kitchen to help add various marinade soup to the bowl. It looks like a community activity center.
Qin Shenjiao would talk to his friends here, and some people would pass through the store directly because they lived at the back of the store. There are even advertising spaces on the wall, which are installed by advertisers because there is traffic here.
A retired female zinc product factory worker talked about pensions to Qin Shenjiao, which is an eternal topic for the elderly. Qin Shenjiao paid for pension insurance many years ago, and she started receiving her pension when she was 55 years old. "Thanks to pay the pension insurance." When I first received my pension, it was more than 1,300 yuan a month, but now it is less than 2,000 yuan a month. "A little more every month, it's considered less in Liuzhou, which is better than nothing."
Liuzhou, diners outside Ajiao snail noodle shop
Liuzim community across the street, is the brightly lit Poly Commercial Plaza. "There used to be a factory in the zinc product factory." Qin Shenjiao told me. This reminds me of " Twenty-Four City Notes " by Jia Zhangke , and also the photos I saw in , Liuzhou Industrial Museum. The picture in the lower left corner of the huge group photo in the museum is illustrated: "From March 18 to 31, 1978, the National Science Conference was grandly held in Beijing. In his important speech at the conference, Deng Xiaoping reiterated the basic Marxist view that 'Science and technology are productivity'. At this conference, Liuzhou Zinc Products Factory was rated as a national advanced science and technology collective." This can illustrate the past of the zinc product factory. In one of the museums, furniture and electrical appliances from the 1970s and 1980s are displayed, like the space of the past. The tour guide took a group of college students to visit. The tour guide asked, does anyone know what "three turns and one sound" is? Only one student answered "electric fan..."
Liuzhou
In the 1980s, when he paid attention to "three turns and one sound" (watches, bicycles, sewing machines and radio), Qin Shenjiao came to Liuzhou from the rural areas of Luzhai to get married and have children. Qin Shenjiao's husband is a worker in a zinc product factory and does very tiring work. "Wearing a mask to shovel coal, his whole body is very sloppy and no one can see clearly." He bought out his seniority in in 2008 and was laid off. "My husband has more than 30 years of working experience and has made up more than 50,000 yuan, and the maximum is 70,000 to 80,000 yuan."
's husband passed away a few years ago. "Lung cancer, I'll be gone after a year of discovery." Qin Shenjiao said that he didn't rely on him. When she first came to Liuzhou, she could enter the factory through the indicators, but she didn't want to. She didn't think working in the factory made her envious. She opened a grocery store and sold paper, candles, incense, and other debris. The business is pretty good. In the 1990s, she bought a house in a zinc product factory. At that time, "I can't take out a few thousand dollars for zinc products, because of this grocery store.
's business is very smooth, and she has some extra money on hand, so she fell in love with gambling. At that time, she asked someone to visit the grocery store, took a minibus that came to pick up people, and went to gamble on baccarat.
This house in Liuzi Community was once a mahjong hall opened by Qin Shenjiao. "I used to bet indiscriminately and played cards every day - it was useless, but in the end I lost." Qin Shenjiao said, "I have been opening a mahjong hall for seven or eight years, and I lost a lot of money." With the money from my husband's treatment, my family owed a lot of debts in those years.
At that time, many of Qin Shenjiao's friends went to work in the distant United States, doing housekeeping or working in confinement centers, and their income was good. "We have a man here who goes to work in the United States. He seems to be on the construction site. He has about 20,000 or 30,000 yuan a month. After working for a few years, he brought back million yuan."
, in order to pay back the money, he came back again, and Qin Shenjiao also wanted to work in the United States. She went to the US Consulate in Guangzhou to visa, but failed. I had to change to another way of "starting again". She thought of snail noodles.
Qin Shenjiao once sold snail noodles in the vegetable market. More specifically, it was originally selling spicy hot pot and snails. Others say, why not use snail soup to cook noodles? She thought it was OK, so she started making snail noodles. This is like a saying of the origin of snail noodles - in the night market in the 1970s and 1980s, someone mixed snail soup with dried rice noodles, which tasted good, so there was snail noodles. Snail noodles originated in the Liuzhou Night Market after reform and opening up , which is a product of modern industrial city life. Even if the time is so short, it is difficult to verify the exact origin of snail noodles. It can be imagined that the origin of rice noodles that are often thousands of years old is difficult to convince. All of them are just saying, or it may not be something to worry about. "It was done smoothly at that time. Vegetables were only a few cents per pound, and beef tripe and pig lungs were cheap, and the cost was low. I went to buy it in three rounds." The store in the vegetable market was not built because of the demolition, and she returned to Liuzhen Community.
She changed the house in Liuzhen Community to a snail noodle shop and started over here. She likes to cook, but does not do it according to ready-made standards. "I never look at how others make snail noodles." She is good at making sweet and sour pork feet, so she moved the method to snail noodles. Her snail noodles have a sweet taste, which is different from any snail noodles in Liuzhou. This snail noodle shop opened in 2017 was first partnered with Qin Shenjiao and his friends, but later his friend felt that he was too tired and stopped doing it. She now works with her son and cousin from Luzhai. The three of them are working together. Cooking snail noodles requires standing for a long time. Qin Shenjiao has lumbar disc herniation . Many times, she is wearing a waist to protect her.
"Do you have fried eggs?" asked the guest.
"It's nothing at this time." Qin Shenjiao said.
fried eggs are a classic combination of Liuzhou snail noodles. Although snail noodles do not have meat, a bowl of snail noodles looks like a base, and you can add various things to it according to your needs. In Liuzhou, many people do not just eat a bowl of snail noodles, but will add duck feet, chicken feet, tofu soak, pig lungs, pig feet, pig skin, etc. Just like within a certain range, there is still room for yourself to participate in secondary creation. I remembered the photos Zhang Ke showed me. Their customers made various "new products" of various styles according to their tastes. I remembered Sister Beiquan again. There is no vegetable to add in the old friend's noodles in her shop. She thinks this will destroy the "old friend's taste", and she will not provide coriander. The same is true. Only the powder that has the upper hand can be called old friend's noodles. Perhaps because of the rich base, snail noodles, you don’t care about adding things to affect the taste. No matter how you add it, you can’t overestimate the snail noodles.
Because of its sweet and sour taste, the sour bamboo shoots of Ajiao snail noodles are not that strong. Moreover, because of adding dark soy sauce, sour bamboo shoots appear not as common as yellow-white, but reddish-brown in the bowl of Ajiao snail noodles. "A few days ago, someone came to eat from Shanghai by plane. A customer came to Nanning and took the high-speed train. He bought fifty bowls back." Qin Shenjiao took out the dried rice noodles used to make snail noodles and showed me the rice noodles were not completely dry, and even had heat, which was different from the common dried rice noodles we had.
The streets of Liuzhou are full of locally produced micro electric vehicles
in Liuzhou. It is not easy to gain a place in the snail noodle world. Everyone is working hard to form their own style.Some specially choose harder dry noodles, some put real snails on the noodles, and some have small bowl sets made of dry and boiled noodles. Outside Liuzhou, it is difficult to feel such a rich situation, and more people can only satisfy their cravings by bagged snail noodles.
is in other places. Now, when meeting Guangxi people, snail noodles often start the topic, just like in the past, using "Guilin's mountains and rivers are the best in the world" to bring the distance closer.
Qin Shenjiao had never eaten bags of snail noodles. She thought that those ingredients could contain the snail soup needed for snail noodles. "There are so many snail noodle shops in Liuzhou, so you don't need to eat this. If I want to eat it, I will cook it myself."
Guilin: The rice noodles that were once the best in the world
Su Hongling is a director of the Guilin Rice Noodle Association. She has participated in many discussions on the topic of "How to get out of Guilin Rice Noodle". Over the years, Guilin rice noodles have been overwhelmed by Liuzhou snail noodles. Regarding the development of her own rice noodle shop, Su Hongling feels that many of her ideas are not yet mature. She won't even consider joining a franchise store. She hopes that after the epidemic is over, her family will open more stores. She doesn't reject it if there are other options that are suitable, but there is currently no. "I'm worried that after others do it, they will love it as much as we do, and will focus all their attention on it. We should cherish the reputation passed down by several generations." Su Hongling said.
is different from other Guilin rice noodle shops, and Su Hongling carries multiple pressures. Her rice noodle shop as the inheritor is "Youyixuan". She pointed to the "Guangxi time-honored brand" brand on the wall, "Our family of rice noodle shops in Guilin have this brand."
Guilin Youyixuan Rice Noodle Shop, Su Hongling and her mother Li Cuiyu
Su Hongling went in and out of Youyixuan Rice Noodle Shop, busy inside and out. I was chatting with Su Hongling's mother Li Cuiyu in the store. Suddenly there was a power outage, and news came from outside the door that the transformer on this street would not be repaired until evening. This is one of the most prosperous areas in Guilin, with many shops. Next to it is Guilin Middle School, behind it is Lequn Caishi and Guilin Medical College.
It seemed as if the movie was about to begin, and the lights went out. Li Cuiyu has acted in movies, or rather, she has served as a stand-in for Cheng Yuling. Cheng Yuling is the heroine in the movie adapted from Bai Xianyong's novel "The Legend of the Flower Bridge". The Rongji rice fans in the film once bloomed at Huaqiaotou outside the Shuidong Gate of Guilin. At that time, the Youyixuan Rice Noodle Shop was at the intersection of Lequn Road, Guilin, with tiled houses and wooden doors, and shops in the Cross Street were mostly like this. The director came to find a stand-in for the Mi Fan, and Li Cuiyu took a waiter to go there. Bai Xianyong returned to Guilin and once asked him to eat the horse meat rice noodles from Youyixuan. Su Hongling has sent it twice. Bai Xianyong is an important disseminator of Guilin rice noodles at the cultural level. Because of his writing, Guilin rice noodles have become a classic image in classic novels, which is something that other rice noodles are incomparable.
"It is my father who sells rice noodles next to the flower bridge." Li Cuiyu's father is Li Bingqing, and he founded Youyixuan in 1932. Li Bingqing's father, Li Shaolin, used to sell rice noodles with loads of rice noodles and brine. He carried two baskets and sold them all the way. My son felt that it was so hard, so he opened a store. With Youyixuan, it means "a new store." "At that time, horse meat rice noodles were filled with small bowls, and customers often ate them for more than ten or twenty bowls. My dad said that some people threw the bowl into the river next to the store in order to calculate the money less." Li Cuiyu said.
Li Cuiyu started working in a rice noodle shop with her mother Hong Shunying in 1988. My daughter Su Hongling and Li Cuiyu have also been in a rice noodle shop for many years. "In Lequn Vegetable Market, everyone knows grandma, she has a good relationship with everyone, and everyone calls her grandma."
In 1958, after the public-private partnership, Hong Shunying joined Guilin Food Service Company. Youyixuan's brand is still preserved. Hong Shunying also worked for Youyixuan, Xinzhong and Weixiangguan, making brine and side dishes. This group of senior practitioners of Guilin rice noodles have maintained Guilin rice noodles for decades. "My mother has been working in these restaurants for a long time. After she retired at the age of 60, she hired her to go back and make them. She has been working until she is in her 80s. If she stops doing them, the taste of these restaurants will gradually decrease and in the end it can't be done."
Li Cuiyu is 76 years old. She is still concerned about the store. If she needs it, she will come to the store early to make soup and mix with brine.For work in the morning, get up at 4 o'clock and arrive at the store at 5 o'clock. There are four types of Guilin rice noodles in the
store - horse meat noodles, braised vegetable noodles, beef brisket noodles, and original soup noodles. Horse meat noodles are the signature brand and the process is the most complicated. You need to have a vision when choosing a horse. How much meat and bones can a horse produce? Only experienced people can see accurately, but not many people can gain such experience and opportunities. Nowadays, Su Hongling's husband often goes to choose a horse, which is a physical and intellectual job. Su Hongling's husband got up in the morning to make soup and brine, and then sold powder tickets at the cashier. His interest is not in the rice noodle shop. He only came to the shop to help after he retired from the army. He likes art. There are his wood carvings in the store, and the chairs are also made by him, with irregular backrests. The words "Youyixuan" were written by his comrades-in-arms, who once played movies in the army.
"Guilin rice noodles are not easy to make. Many people look at the price but not the quality. Rice noodles in the city center are 50 cents more expensive, so those who come to eat them have their opinions." Su Hongling's husband said.
Before the epidemic, pork rose from more than a dozen to more than thirty yuan. "The price of meat can rise, but the price of rice noodles cannot rise, so you can't make money, but you still have to persevere. There is no way, it's very worrying." Su Hongling said.
As a tourist city, Guilin has a huge impact on store business. Before the epidemic, Youyixuan used to be a 24-hour store, but now it is closed at 3 a.m., which is too late, but there are not many customers, and the long queues are rare. Another rice noodle shop next to Youyixuan has reduced its storefront by half. "First of all, you have to survive." It's almost lunch time, and Sister Cao came to the store and wanted to have a bowl of rice noodle before going home for dinner. Because the night before, a friend asked her to have dinner and she didn't get any rice noodles. She said she must have had rice noodles before having lunch today. Sister Cao later went to Guilin to work in 2000. When she was a child, in the 1970s and 1980s, her grandparents worked in Guilin. During the holidays, she came here on a three-hour long-distance bus and ate Youyixuan rice noodles. Many people have stories like this. I have been eating since kindergarten until my grandson comes to the store to eat. This is the meaning of the old store.
Guilin Youyixuan. When the power outage, the customer used candlelight to dine
. "This brand was passed on to my dad for decades, and my dad had been making it for decades. Some elderly people have been eating it in our store for decades and recognize this brand. The old people are used to eating it, and they can eat it. For example, this pot of brine should be 40 kilograms of pork and 40 kilograms of beef. If there is a difference, the taste will be wrong." In Li Cuiyu's opinion, quality, hygiene, and attitude must be done, which is not easy. "So why am I so old and I still have to come to the store?" For so many years, Li Cuiyu has hardly had a rest, let alone travel, "It's not a question." The inheritance of
is a problem. Li Cuiyu's family has eight brothers and sisters, and she ranks third. They all opened a store, but they were too tired and only she persisted. The same is true when it comes to my daughter's generation, and in the end it is my daughter who keeps doing it. "She is quite confident and persistent," Li Cuiyu commented on her daughter. "This business is not so small. If you want to continue, you need some perseverance. Get up at four or five o'clock during the day and go back at ninety o'clock in the evening. I told her that the brand passed down by the old man should be carried forward."
Su Hongling and her sister are also helping. When she was too tired, she told her sister that the store contract expired, so let’s not do it. My sister felt that this brand had not been passed on to me, so I was sorry for my ancestors.
Su Hongling's son is now studying with his grandmother. Li Cuiyu will teach her grandson step by step, such as mixing brine. Is this salty and light enough? How deep does this pot need to be fried? Is it suitable? The grandson is willing to do the work of inheritance. This is a rare thing for the younger generation. Family businesses all over the world face the problem of how to inherit them. Time is the hardest to deal with.
Guilin Gunanmen
In Guilin, many rice noodle shops cannot see it. Not only rice noodle shops, but also other old shops. "When my grandfather opened a store, he had a good relationship with his neighbors," said Su Hongling. At that time, near Youyixuan, there were Zhang Yong's release shop, Doudai Pills Sauerkraut Shop, and Tianzhong Wonton Shop. These are all time-honored brands in Guilin.The Youyixuan Rice Noodle Shop, which was formerly
, sells rice noodles downstairs, lives upstairs, and raises two pigs in the backyard. When I woke up in the morning, "Grandpa went upstairs, took a whip and asked the child to get up." Su Hongling said, "My uncle likes to play basketball. The Cultural Palace used to be a light court. My uncle forgot to eat when playing basketball, and the food was dumped when he went home. I won't dare to do it next time."
Su Hongling had to ask her uncle about many things. When I was slaughtering horses, there were horse blood sausages. My uncle would come to the store to have a bowl of horse meat rice noodles, fresh sausages, and two glasses of wine to sit for most of the day. She chatted with her uncle and talked about the past. For example, "Wind-blowing sauce and horse-drawn oil", this is a classic description of Guilin rice noodles. The dishes placed on rice noodles should be cut thinly and there should be oil, but not too much. Only when the taste is just right.
Because of household registration, many children in the family returned to Guilin from other places. Su Hongling's niece came back from Liuzhou and came to Guilin to eat her own rice noodles. "Take off her mask and smell it, ah, this is homesickness." She ate snail noodles in Liuzhou and thought snail noodles were very good. Now many people know about snail noodles.
Nowadays, some Guilin rice noodle shops also sell snail noodles. Bags of snail noodles have become an internet celebrity product and a huge industry. Many stores in Guilin have bagged Guilin rice noodles sold, and tourists will take them away as souvenirs, but compared with the sales of bagged snail noodles, there is a big gap.
Su Hongling said she would consider the tastes of young people. Nowadays, young people like to have spicy and heavy tastes. "We may change it. For example, in the past, it was chili powder, but now there are oil chili and chopped peppers."
is already dinner time, and Guilin people like to gather friends, and they are crowded in restaurants like oil tea shops with local characteristics. "Guilin people still know how to eat, and restaurants that do local business are okay. Guilin has rich products, and there are things from the north and the south. Culture is also inclusive." Shi Tou, a Guilin native who runs a restaurant in Beijing, said, "In Guilin dishes, you can find the shadow of Hunan cuisine, the shadow of Guangdong cuisine, and the shadow of Hakka cuisine. Pingle's brewed dishes come from Hakka cuisine."
Tourists taking selfies in front of Elephant Trunk Mountain
Many Guilin rice noodle shops introduce Guilin rice noodle, and will talk about the source when Qin Shihuang sent troops to repair the Lingqu. Shi Tou felt that this was almost legendary and unreliable. The stone who studied history felt that since the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, there was more rice in the south and needed to be stored and used quickly, and the change in productivity was the reason. Among the various rice noodles in Guangxi, Guilin rice noodles are the longest, and Guilin rice noodles are the earliest known people, although Guangxi Tian and others went to China to open Guilin rice noodles restaurants.
Even if Guilin rice noodles do not have the "credit" of Qin Shihuang, Lingqu has the "credit" of Qin Shihuang. The excavation of Lingqu communicates with the Pearl River and the Yangtze River water system, giving people more possibilities for communication, food and culture, and rice noodles are among them.
Beijing: Food is the most important thing for people
I returned to Beijing. Within one day, I ate snail noodles on Dawang Road, Laoyou noodles in Sanlitun, and Guilin rice noodles on Shenlu Street, as if I had repeated a rice noodle journey in Guangxi.
88 Noodle Shop on Dawang Road, the supervisor Wei Jie is from Hechi, Guangxi. She has worked in Liuzhou for many years and is as strict as her boss. She took me to the kitchen to see the soup ingredients being cooked to show the real ingredients. The dessert combination here is also quite authentic. I ordered black and white jelly and remembered Liuzhou. In Guangxi, there is often a famous sugar water shop near a famous rice noodle shop. Near the Shuji Laoyou Noodle Shop in Nanning, there is Xiantian Pavilion. Not far from the Fengzhang snail noodle shop in Liuzhou, there is Yao Ji Douhua. After eating old friend’s noodles, eat red bean paste, and after eating snail noodles, eat a bowl of tofu, or corn candy water. These stores constitute the neighborhood community ecology. Not only eating, but also interpersonal networks.
The dark rice noodle shop is in the garden of Sanlitun. The design of the store makes people feel like they are in the Mediterranean Sea. Cantonese songs bring people back to the scene in southern Guangxi. This rice noodle shop, which mainly consists of old friends fans, is the owner of actor Huang Jue, who is from Nanning. The star effect will increase the attention of the store.The word "black" makes people smile. In Nanning vernacular slang, this means the same as the common term for a visiting team player in a Workers' Stadium not far from this store. The dried rice noodles used in the store are the situation faced by most Guangxi rice noodles stores in Beijing. Many rice noodles that originally used wet flour have to be replaced by dry powder soaking it in wet. In Guangxi, wet flour is supplied by rice noodles factories. In Beijing, such conditions are difficult to meet, and the cost of making one's own home is too high. Because the dried rice noodles used from the beginning of snail noodles naturally have no problem. Of course, even in Nanning, some old friends are using dry rice noodles for innovation. Everyone is beginning to pay more and more attention to the freshness brought by rice noodles, which is the key to attracting people.
Guilin rice noodle is one of the many Guangxi dishes in Dangui Renjia Restaurants on Shenlu Street. The restaurant owner Zhang Kairen is from Yongfu, Guilin. He opened a store next to the China Art Museum in 1996. The boss expanded his business before the epidemic. The two-story restaurant seemed empty at night, and the monthly rent of tens of thousands of yuan was shocking. When I was eating Guilin rice noodles, I saw a guest next to me eating snail noodles, and another couple ate duck foot screw pot, both of which were Liuzhou style. The flavor of Liuzhou is everywhere.
I took a car to the Gaoli Camp in Shunyi to find the stone cafeteria. When I arrived, I found that the store door was closed. I called the store and learned that there was another store in Hengtong International Innovation Park in Jiuxianqiao. I ate Guilin rice noodles from the stone canteen in a black container-looking store. I was the only guest throughout the afternoon.
Stone in the Stone Canteen Photo/Southern People Weekly Reporter Liang Chen
The boss Shi Tou is called Shi Yongqiang, and everyone calls him Shi Tou. Shitou has moved the store to several places. The store was originally in Wangjing, and then moved from Wangjing to Sanlitun. He stayed in the Sanlitun Yuchang for several years. Due to the epidemic and demolition, it became a food city dominated by takeout. Shitou felt that it was no longer suitable for him, so he decided to move out. Originally, he and his friends planned to open a new store near Dazhong Temple. The countdown in his circle of friends showed this expectation, but it failed in the end. He and his partners have differences on the concept of opening a store. Shi Tou looked for a new store location.
He took a fancy to the shop next to the Gaoli Camp Market in Shunyi. Before the epidemic, there were big episodes here every week. "In Guilin dialect, shout "Stop making trouble." The traffic of the market will reach an astonishing 100,000, and it is the largest market in the north of Beijing. Shi Tou originally thought that he could live a very comfortable life just by relying on this big show.
But the epidemic has come, and the traffic brought by Daji has disappeared. The Gaoliying store has few passenger flows, and now it has become a "production workshop". It has made soup and marinade side dishes and brought it to the Hengtong International Innovation Park store for secondary processing. Because the food production in the park is restricted by the venue.
Stone is a food observer and thinker. He was once a university teacher and had his own attitude and insights into food and the world.
"Why did snail noodles surpass Guilin rice noodles and become the more popular rice noodles in Beijing?" I asked Shitou. On Dianping, Beijing’s Dianping website, there is even a special ranking of snail noodles, and other rice noodles are included in the “rice noodles”, as if rice noodles have been divided into “rice noodles” and “snail noodles”.
Shi Tou gave his own analysis: "The taste memory points of Guilin rice noodles are not obvious enough, they will be very thick and complex, but compared with snail noodles, it is not so exciting, so people can't remember it at once." Shi Tou quoted Chen Xiaoqing's evaluation of Guilin rice noodles - Guilin rice noodles like symphony, "When you appreciate the symphony, you must calm your heart and listen."
"Single flavor - stink or spicy taste can easily catch people's taste points." Shi Tou also mentioned the popular Xinjiang fried rice noodles in Beijing. "Single sense of paeon is like a saxophone, which grabs your ears and mobilizes your senses."
This may have a lot to do with the pressure people are under in big cities. "Because when people are under pressure at work, they have to find an outlet, some want to drink coffee, some want to smoke, some want to dance, and some want to eat heavy-taste... On the other hand, people are more anxious after eating heavy-salted foods, which is like a vicious cycle."In Shitou's opinion, adding too many condiments, which stimulates people's emotions when they are eaten, can relieve people's emotions, but cannot fundamentally solve the problem. He cited the example of Jin Yong's martial arts novel - Duan Yu absorbed other people's internal strength and used "Yijing Jin" to transform into his own things. Jiumozhi used "Little Wuxiang Gong", although he could also play that move, he eventually harmed himself.
stone displays braised beef Photo/Southern People Weekly reporter Liang Chen
stone has good writing skills and logical ability. He graduated from the History Department of Southwest University, but taught computer graphic design at Guilin University of Technology. He started making private dishes when he was in Guilin. He was obsessed with food. "I grew up in a restaurant. "Shitou's mother is almost eighty. Everyone calls her Master Qin. When she was young, she went to an old Guilin restaurant and worked as an apprentice. She has been a chef in the unit canteen for decades and often hosts a banquet of dozens of tables.
's mother came to Beijing for a while and ate Guilin rice noodles made by her son. After returning to Guilin, she felt that many Guilin rice noodles were not delicious.
's Shitou emphasized ingredients and focused on restoring the original flavor of the food. He felt that this was the same as traditional Chinese medicine. For example, making brine, Guilin rice noodle shops said that they had tricks, but each person had their own taste, "Who is more authentic? It's nothing more than the pre-flavor, after-flavor and aftertaste. "Traditional Chinese medicine talks about the principle of "the king, minister and the envoy", and the same is true for spice matching. "The first thing you eat is the king's flavor, star anise cinnamon bark leaves, which is more of the flavor. Grass fruit and cloves are seasonings, and the prescription is pepper, which makes the aftertaste and aftertaste more prominent. "
Shitou believes that Guilin rice noodles should not overemphasize the secret of brine or not, and he thinks it doesn't make much sense. "I think it's better to emphasize that you have carried forward a cultural tradition. When eating a bowl of rice noodles, it should not be just food, but rather represent a culture and a way to maintain emotions. "
" The taste buds of my mother's generation have been opened and I know what delicious food is. Even in Guilin, there is a gap in the perception of the good taste of rice noodles. "This is part of the reason why Shi Tou is confused in Guilin. He made private dishes and found that the raw materials were becoming more and more difficult to understand. He saw that Beijing had the practice of building an organic farm, so he came to Beijing and lived there for almost ten years.
Shi Tou is making Guilin rice noodles Photo/Southern People Weekly reporter Liang Chen's emotions related to people in food are the importance of stones. For example, he would make farmers fried eggs. He would talk about grandfather. During the Anti-Japanese War, when the Japanese army fought to Guilin, his grandfather shook the alarm on Duxiu Peak. He would miss his grandfather. In the past, when he went home during the holidays, the old man took out the eggs from the chicken coop, picked the peppers and tomatoes he had planted in the yard, and stir-fried them simply, and it would be delicious. The Duxiu Peak mentioned in
stones was in the Guilin Royal City, where there were layers of history. In the Ming Dynasty, this was the Jingjiang Palace, and Xu Xiake asked to enter The city climbed Duxiu Peak but failed to get it. During the Republic of China, it was Sun Yat-sen's Northern Expedition Base Camp. Now, this is the campus of Guangxi Normal University.
Guangxi rice noodles and food, like many traditions in Guangxi, have the expectation of integrating into the world, like the unwilling people in the world, hoping to get changes.
In the Guilin Royal City, the stone carvings on each city gate are related to the Guilin top scorer and second-place scorer in the history of the imperial examination. In the 15th year of the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Jianxun from Guilin entered Beijing to participate in the palace examination. He wrote in his policy theory: "Those who hear the food are the heaven of the people. It is used to meditate, to defend it, and to supplement it with silkworms. It is used to transform itself into Yuanyuan. "What Zhang Jianxun's palace examination policy theory wants to express is that everyone must live for food, but who has seriously thought about the profound truths in eating? Zhang Jianxun wrote about the thoughts on "food". His policy theory moved Emperor Guangxu. With this policy theory that later generations called "food is the most important thing" he became the top scholar of that year.
Beijing has entered winter, and people who are busy for "food" are shuttled through various spaces in the city, and it has been endless. At this time, 132 years have passed since the policy theory "food is the most important thing" was born.
article / Southern People Weekly reporter Wei Yi Photo / Southern People Weekly reporter Dashi (except for signature)
