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Author Zhao Xinnan
Publishing House Editor, rookie backpacker, has never had the passion of "I must go to XX countries in this life", but only see the scenery you really want to see.
"Taipei is not my home, my hometown has no neon lights. In Lugang, the early morning and dusk of Lugang, people wandering in civilization." When it comes to Lugang, perhaps 90% of people think of Luo Dayou's song "Lugang Town". For many people who have never been there, this song seems to tell people that Lugang is not a prosperous city, but just a quiet harbor.
First arrived in Lugang - especially from a big city like Taipei, you may not be able to adapt to this contrast at once. Because the day here is very quiet, there are almost no people on the street, and the whole town is like a child who is shining in the sun and never gets up, looking at everyone who comes to sightseeing from other places with sleepy eyes.
△Lugang Old Street
However, please don’t underestimate this small town with a strong sense of ancient style. There is a saying in Taiwan that “one mansion, two deer and three scapula”, and “deer” refers to Lugang. In ancient times, Lugang was mainly traded. In the 49th year of Qianlong's reign in the Qing Dynasty (1784), Lugang opened a ferry crossing and flew directly to the Fujiang River in Quanzhou, Fujian. From then on, it opened the golden age of Lugang and once became the second largest town in Taiwan at that time. Although the prosperity is not here, you can still experience the past style of these nostalgic landscapes while strolling around the old neighborhoods.
In today's Taiwan, Lugang cannot be regarded as a tourist town, so few tourist groups come here. Because of this, Lugang welcomes guests who do not like the noise and like to explore humanistic feelings and historical accumulation; on the other hand, everyone who comes to Lugang with such a state of mind will not make a thick guide and mechanically check it one by one, but will walk on the stone roads of Lugang Old Street, next to old houses, and between teahouses and grocery shops with a strong nostalgia, enjoying the surprise that a certain ancient monument suddenly appears in front of you in a casual rhythm.
Speaking of alleys
A small town like Lugang that is hidden and hidden, the most worth experiencing is the winding and even unknown alleys. It completely subconsciously walks through the middle of these alleys, which feels a bit like a hutong tour in Beijing, but you will be more comfortable in Lugang because you won’t see the bustling crowds.
Lugang's most famous alley is Tunru Lane. It is said that this alley has a history of more than 200 years. Because Lugang is located by the sea, in order to resist the strong sea breeze, residents have built the houses very closely, so small alleys like Tunru Lane appeared. For me who visited here for the first time, it was only after many twists and turns that I could see my true face. It is said that the narrowest place in the Breast Touching Lane is only 59cm. It is difficult for two people not to touch each other's body when they pass by. Almost everyone who comes to Lugang must come here to souvenirs, and I cannot avoid the vulgarity. However, I heard that Lugang has a narrower "Gentleman Alley", with the narrowest place being only 47cm, which is difficult for people who are too fat to pass.
In addition to Milu Lane, other things such as Jiuqu Lane, Jinsheng Lane, etc. are all winding and long ancient alleys. You don’t know where you can’t walk to the end. This is like the alleys in old Beijing, or the blank space in Chinese paintings, which won’t let you see it at first sight, but it’s also telling you.
Speaking of temples
Lugang, which is free and easy, has also had an era of cultural heritage and prosperity. In the early years, thanks to its navigation with Quanzhou, it was also called "Little Quanzhou". Even today's Lugang still maintains the architectural style of southern Fujian in the Qing Dynasty. As an important city on the Maritime Silk Road, Quanzhou has the reputation of the "World Religious Art Museum", and the small town of Lugang, which echoes it, not only carries the same language, the same folk customs and similar architectural styles, but also the same religion and beliefs.There are five Longshan Temples in Taiwan, and Lugang Longshan Temple is the best preserved, the best preserved Qing Dynasty building in Taiwan, and now it is a first-class monument in Taiwan.
△Lugang Longshan Temple
In addition to Longshan Temple, Lugang also has a famous temple - Lugang Tianhou Temple. Anyone who understands Taiwanese folk customs knows that Taiwanese believe in Mazu and believe that Mazu can bless peace. It is the highest among the more than 400 Mazu temples in Taiwan. It has a very high status among the various Mazu temples in Taiwan. It is the only statue of Mazu worshipped here, which was welcomed by the Fujian Navy Admiral Jinghai Hou Shi Lang from the Meizhou Tianhou Temple in Putian in the 22nd year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1683), and was welcomed to Taiwan by Shi Lang, the governor of the Fujian Navy, from the Meizhou Tianhou Temple in Putian. It is the only statue of the god from Meizhou in the province. It is called the ancestral god, so it is also known as the ancestral temple.
△Tianhougong
△Tianhougong night view
Speaking of food
Nowadays, Tianhougong has become the most willing place for Lugang people to go to at night, because it gathers all the local snacks in Lugang, such as squid soup, meat balls, noodle paste, meat buns, shrimp balls, flat food, oyster omelettes, raw fried five flavors, noodle tea, almond tea, etc., which can be found here.
△Oyster Orange
And Lugang’s pastries are also very famous. Here I would like to introduce two very famous old stores in Lugang: Zheng Xingzhen Cake Shop and Yuzhenzhai. The former's phoenix eye cake, mung bean cake and beef tongue cake, and the latter's pineapple cake are all famous in Taiwan. Both stores are on Zhongshan Road, and Yuzhenzhai is at the intersection of Laojie. The phoenix eye cake in Zheng Xingzhen cake shop can be tried for free. I personally like strawberries the most; the beef tongue cake is soft and glutinous, different from the crisp and fragrant of Yilan, but it is the best in Taiwan. When it comes to Yuzhenzhai, people are lined up with various pastries, and the time-honored brands are different.
Speaking of traditional
In addition to Lugang’s food, there is the most praised thing here, which is the unique handicrafts. You can tell from Baidu that Lugang is the place with the most traditional craftsmen in Taiwan. With 36 award winners in Taiwan, Lugang occupies 16. For example, Sanyi may be famous for wood carvings, but there are gold carvings, silver carvings, wood carvings, etc. in Lugang. These craftsmen's craftsmanship works attract many foreigners to stop.
There is a Guihua Lane Art Village in Lugang. This is just a very quiet alley in Lugang. Both sides are private exhibition halls of some folk craftsmen, but they are not open together. Each exhibition hall has its own business hours. These artists will make some complimentary crafts by themselves. Visitors can visit freely, buy with similar prices, and watch the production of crafts by themselves, which is a good experience.
Speaking of residence and transportation
Lugang belongs to Changhua County. You can take the MRT from Taipei to Taipei Railway Station and go to Taipei MRT Station to purchase 1,062 buses, NT$350, and a 3.5-hour trip. There is a train station in Changhua County, and there are trains between cities such as Taichung, Tainan, Kaohsiung, etc. in Taiwan, and there is a bus to Lugang in front of the train station.
There are relatively few hotels in Lugang. I recommend a relatively economical hotel: Quanzhong Hotel, which is NT$800 a day (about RMB 160). It looks like the door is not too big, but it is really "a unique world" and has a bit of "alley meaning".
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