" Clouds want clothes to be beautiful and beautiful, spring breeze blows on the threshold of Huanong ", this is Li Bai's poem describing Yang Guifei. It’s not uncommon to use flowers to describe the makeup of beautiful women in poems, but using clouds to describe the clothes worn by Concubine Yang is really open-minded, which can not help but make people think: 贵妃着的唐朝女女, What does it look like?
Before the Tang Dynasty, Chinese history experienced three to four hundred years of national integration in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, and even the emperor of the Tang Dynasty had Xianbei blood. Therefore, some people say " Tangrenda has a wild ".
Under the open concept and the influence of Hu people, the Tang Dynasty also formed its unique costume culture. What is the fashion for women in the Tang Dynasty?
Practicing figure
1. Underwear clothes
In ancient times, the word "clothes" is different from today's meaning, "clothing" Refers to the upper garment, and "Shang" refers to the lower garment.
Chinese traditional Hanfu women's clothing, pay attention to "被体深邃" , that is to say, "Tops" and "Shangshang" are connected together, and then you can use different colors of cloth as its Edge to distinguish. Therefore, this clothing is also called "deep clothes."
and Tang Dynasty women's clothing is different, using "two-piece dress", "top" includes undergarment, shirt, half-arm, draped silk, etc., while "down clothes" are mainly skirts. This undergarment is also the main form of dress for women in the Tang Dynasty.
Underwear
1, Underwear
Underwear is a short top, the length is generally from the waist, the longest But the knee. Underwear is generally close-fitting, can be thin or thick, and the cuffs can be wide or narrow. Generally speaking, women who are engaged in more manual labor wear narrow sleeves, while the nobles often use gorgeous wide sleeves in order to highlight their elegance.
Underwear is a top, so it is also an "image display area" created by women in the Tang Dynasty. "The rich daughter of the Red Mansion, the golden thread embroidered Luo Ling", "Purple lined pheasant, yellow post flower on the temple" and other verses, all describe how gorgeous and colorful the feathers were at that time.
It is worth mentioning that there was a 祖领短襦 in the heyday of Tang Dynasty. This is a very rare bold way to wear in Chinese history, and it is also very modern. "Xiangzi" describes it like this: "The chest is like snow and the face is like a flower" . Readers with rich imagination can fill this picture by themselves.
Nine Palace Lady Figure
2, shirt
Shirt is a single garment, which is longer than the skirt, so there are also gowns. statement. shirt is the same as underclothes, there is a difference between narrow sleeves and wide sleeves. Narrow sleeves were popular in the Tang Dynasty, and only dancers had more wide sleeves. In addition, shirts can also be divided into sub-categories such as full chest and head, opposite front, right gusset and big front.
shirts are generally made of silk and silk, so they are lighter and thinner. They are often worn as spring and summer clothes, such as "Who knows me in the east city late, short boots and low hat white banana shirt" , which describes the body of a woman in summer Traveling in the "white banana shirt".
Because they are often worn as outer clothes, shirts have also become a symbol of status in the Tang Dynasty. Like 祖领短襦 in the heyday of Tang Dynasty, the most characteristic of the Tang Dynasty in the shirt is 坦胸瘦袖衣, which fully demonstrates the physical beauty of women in the Tang Dynasty, and can also produce red-headedness. Effect.
Nine Palace Lady Figure
3, half arm
half arm is short sleeve sleeved on the outermost layerThe coat , the length only reaches the waist, is mostly made of denser fabrics, in addition to playing a decorative role, it can also keep out the wind and cold.
4, drape
The so-called drape is a piece of cloth on the shoulders, similar to the function and effect of today’s shawls and scarves . Phi and silk are mostly sewn with silk with patterns printed on them. The colors are rich and there are many ways to match them.
half-arm
5, skirt
The most feminine and colorful clothing, of course, is the skirt. The Tang Dynasty skirt has a high waist and often needs to be tied around the chest. Its hem is arc-shaped, rich in colors and elegant in shape.
There are many styles of Tang Dynasty skirts, among which the most popular and famous one is probably 萝卜衣. When Wu Zetian was a monk in Ganye Temple, he used the love poem "I don't believe me, I shed tears in the past, get a pomegranate skirt out of the box" , which successfully restored Tang Gaozong's love.
And "pomegranate skirt" is a word with very high frequency in Tang Dynasty poems, such as Li Bai's "Moving boat Mulanzhao, wine pomegranate skirt" , Baijuyi's "eyebrow bullying Yangliuye" , Skirt jealous pomegranate flower " and so on. So, why did the pomegranate dress get its name as a popular style for women in the Tang Dynasty?
Chinese people like passionate and unrestrained colors. The so-called "the color of the flower skirt is good", "the red skirt jealously kills the pomegranate flower" , the "pomegranate" in the pomegranate skirt refers to the red color of the pomegranate flower.
Pomegranate skirt
Dyeing is the most critical link in the production of pomegranate skirt. In the Tang Dynasty, the pigments used to dye pomegranate skirts were natural plant dyes. Because they are expensive, the whole pomegranate dress is also expensive.
Therefore, in the Tang Dynasty, the pomegranate dress was the favorite of noble ladies.
In addition to Wu Zetian just mentioned, Concubine Yang also likes to wear a pomegranate dress. Legend has it that Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty invited a hundred officials to a banquet and invited Concubine Yang to perform a dance. However, Concubine Yang refused to appear on the grounds that Baiguan had not bowed down to her. Tang Xuanzong heard this and immediately asked Baiguan to do it, so there was the allusion of "Being down under the pomegranate skirt" .
In addition to the more popular pomegranate skirts, Tang Dynasty women’s dresses also have 间色袖 arranged in different color intervals, 百鸟袖 twisted into threads with various bird feathers, which are thin and transparent. The fabric is woven and embroidered with 花绳衣, 画while painted on the skirt surface, 黄while with floral fragrance and so on.
A variety of Tang skirts
二、胡服
The Tang Dynasty imperial family has "Hu people blood". Tang Gaozu’s mother Dugu, Tang Taizong’s mother Dou, and Tang Gaozong’s mother Changsun were all Hu people.
Therefore, the Li Tang royal family also has a natural sense of closeness to the Hu people's customs and culture. Tang Taizong and Tang Xuanzong both liked Hu dance, and the music and costumes of Hu people were also popular in the Tang court.
Influenced by the royal family, noble women in the Tang Dynasty also rushed to the exotic Hu clothing. Driven by them, Hu Fu quickly became popular in the Tang Dynasty and even spread to the folks, changing the aesthetic trend of society.
In the heyday of Tang Dynasty, wearing Hu clothing became a fashion on the streets of Chang'an, just like playing Hu music, dancing Hu and drinking Hu wine.
A woman wearing a Hu suit
元稹Zeng said: "A woman is a Hu woman who learns from Hu make-up, and she plays into Hu Yinwu and Hu Le." 刘禹锡有Poetry Cloud: "Hu Fu He Wei Liao, Xian Xian Deng Qi Chi."
Among these very exotic Hu clothing, the most influential Tang Dynasty women's clothing is the clothing from Persia, Uyghur, Tubo and other countries. Their shapes are roughly as follows: slim-sleeved robes with small sleeves, hakama pleats, small mouth pants, hoods, leather belts, and leather boots.
3. Men's clothing
For a long period of time in Chinese history, women could not wear men's clothing. One of the classics of Confucianism, "Book of Rites · Nei Ze", not only has "unsuitable clothes for men and women" , it even requires "women must cover their faces when they go out" . It can be seen that the distinction between men and women and the inferiority of men and women are deeply ingrained.
Women wearing menswear
However, in the Tang Dynasty, it became common for women to wear menswear, ranging from queens and princesses down to civic girls, who were happy to dress. Men's. And wearing a tight-fitting robe and trousers with narrow sleeves, dressing yourself up as a Huren, is a street fashion for women in the Tang Dynasty.
This can be proved in the unearthed Tang Dynasty cultural relics and some historical documents. For example, among the unearthed pottery figurines of the Tang Dynasty, there are mostly female figures wearing long robes. In the famous Tang painting "Mrs. Guo Guo's Spring Tour", you can also see the image of a woman wearing a men's round-neck robes on a horse-riding trip.
Mrs. Guo Guo’s Spring Tour (partial)
In the historical literature of the Tang Dynasty, there are countless records of women wearing men's clothing, such as in "Xin Tang Book · Yufu Zhi" Record: "At the time of Zhongzong, the harem wore a hood and husband's boots." "Tang Neidian·Internal Official Shangfu Note" Record: "Queen and Prince Concubine's green socks, plus gold ornaments, when the Yuan Dynasty Or her husband’s clothes and boots."
Why did it seem like an act of prejudice to the world in other dynasties, but it was particularly respected in the Tang Dynasty?
One is derived from the open social atmosphere of the Tang Dynasty.
The Tang Dynasty is one of the rare and relatively open dynasties in Chinese history, and it is also a dynasty where multiple cultures coexist. Especially in terms of the gender concept of men and women, the Tang Dynasty had a more advanced performance compared with other dynasties.
Women in men's wear
For example, the well-known Yang Yuhuan recognized An Lushan as a godson and gave him the story of "washing three" (washing in full moon bath), put it in other The dynasties are simply unimaginable. For example, in the "Lady Guoguo Spring Tour", women traveling on horseback and making public appearances were normal in the Tang Dynasty.
The second is from the influence of strong women such as Wu Zetian.
In the Tang Dynasty, Wu Zetian, the only female emperor in Chinese history, was born. At the end of the Tang Dynasty, there were also powerful women who had the right to interfere in government affairs such as Queen Wei, Princess Taiping, Princess Anle, and Shangguan Wan'er. They also like to wear men's clothing very much. This is not only to declare one's own prestige, but also to show men in the world that women can also rule the world.
Conclusion: Some people say that "the more national, the more world", is used in Tang Dynasty women's clothing, it is not an exaggeration. At a time, traditional Chinese clothing was almost replaced by Western clothing. However, in recent years, the popular elements of Tang Dynasty women's clothing have been inherited and developed in modern clothing. "云想衣花想容", " Unpacking and picking pomegranate skirt " , some fashion, not changed in millennia .
Reference materials: "New Tang Book", "Tang Neidian", "Book of Rites", "Nanxiangzi", "A Brief History of Chinese Clothing" (Huang Shilong)
