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Today's Wuxi is a bustling city with rows of high-rise buildings and roads extending in all directions. But did you know that back to sixty or seventy years ago, the city center of Wuxi was crisscrossed by river networks, still looking like a typical Jiangnan water town. Let's listen to the past stories told by three old Wuxi people...
(Early Wuxi City Master Plan from Wuxi CPPCC)
Chongning Road in Wuxi City used to be a river, named Liujian River. From east to west on the river, there are Xinmiao Bridge (nearby the Jinkui County Town God's Temple, the north bank is called Xiaoheshang), Xieqiao (the river bank is called Xieqiaoxia), Shigu Bridge, Dongni Bridge (the south bank is called Shiguheshang, and the north bank is called Daheshang), and Fengguang Bridge. Regarding the old residences of the Qin family, there are the Qin family's Gongbao Shangshudi on the Shigu River, the Qin family's Zhangqing hall on the small river, and the Qin family's Chengzhi hall, Qin's Baoren hall, Qin Huaihai temple (Baoyitang) and Qin Zhuoru house (Shaoxiu hall, today's former residence of Qin Bangxian) on the big river.
At the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, Yanhe (Dunxuan Gong), the grandson of Wei Zhen, the first ancestor of the Qin family in Xishan, moved to Xuanwenli on the south bank of the Liujian River in the city and became the first ancestor of the Qin family on the river. Kui (Gong Zhongzhai), the eldest son of Sun Qinxu (Xiu Jinggong), was "proficient in learning". He passed the Jinshi title in the fourth year of Tomorrow Shun (1460) and was appointed as the political envoy to Youbu in Jiangxi Province. The two brothers Fu and Zhongfu were called "Gongbao Shangshudi Jiahui Hall" in the imperial edict. At the same time, they built the first residence on the opposite bank of the river, facing the city street in the west and Shiguhe in the south. "Ningshou Hall" was built to the west of "Tingxiu Hall" for the retirement of their parents.
(The old house of the Qin family in Wuxi, picture from Weibo "Qin Baoyu Hall")
With the imperial examination, the family ushered in prosperity, and the Qin family settlement gradually formed along the Liujian River, which was known as Qin on the River in history. "Hongxu Hall" is the residence of Qin Huai (Cun Chi Gong) on the river. Behind the hall, there are many Taihu stones on Jinkui Mountain (in the wild garden). Hundred-year-old Polygonum multiflorum vines climb and peonies are planted in the flower fence. It is the residence of Sun Qin Yao (Shun Feng Gong) and his descendants Qin Kuan (Tai Qing Gong) and Qin Dezao (Hai Weng Gong). "Shaoxiu Hall", "Jixitang" and "Baoyitang" were built in the west of the house, and "Peiyuan Hall" was built in the east of the house, all of which were the residences of Qin Liang (Hongzhou Gong); Qin Zhuoru, the descendant of "Shaoxiutang", rebuilt a new house, and "Jixitang" was marked as "The House of Documents" because he and Zhongzhai Gong compiled the city records one after another. , "Baoyitang" was merged into the Huaihai Ancestral Temple; "Peiyuantang" and its descendants have lived for generations...
Liujian River is now not known to many people. Chongning Road, built by filling the river, is now the "Political and Legal Street" in the east, and is famous for the former residence of Qin Bangxian in the west. The Qinhuaihai Temple is still there, and although the relocated Zhangqing Hall is not as glorious as the original house, it can still be visited, paid homage and reminisced by the Qin clan members and tourists.
(Chongning Road Wenyuanfang)
So, what is "Arrow River"? This starts with the city of Wuxi. The city of Wuxi originally had a turtle-back shape. The Grand Canal passed through the city from north to south, dividing the city into two parts: the west one was still called Wuxi County , and the east one was analyzed as Jingui County in the fourth year of Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1726). The small county town of Wuxi has two county offices, the one to the west is called Laoxianqian and the one to the east is called Xinxianqian. In addition to the two county governments, there are also two corresponding Town God's Temples. There is a Wuxi County Town God's Temple in front of the old county, called Laomiao, and there is a Jingui County Town God's Temple in front of Xinxian, called Xinmiao.
This grand canal that passes through the city is called the Zhihe River. Because the city wall is shaped like a turtle's back, the east wall is bow-shaped, and the Zhihe River is like a string on a bow, so it is also called the Xianhe River. This straight river has a long history and can be traced back to the Northern Song Dynasty (when the river was filled to build the Second Zhongshan Road in 1958, several ancient coins were discovered in the soil excavated to a depth of 2 meters, namely "Zhenghe Tongbao" and "Xuanhe Tongbao"). A small river perpendicular to the string river, like an arrow shot from the string, is called an arrow river.
(Picture via@All the way to Xihang)
There are 13 bridges on this straight river. From north to south, they are Beishuiguan Bridge, Yingxiang Bridge, Cangqiao (Yifeng Bridge), Xinshi Bridge, Dashiqiao, Sanfeng Bridge, Zhongshi Bridge, Huanxi Bridge, Heping Bridge, Nanshi Bridge, Convenience Bridge, Dusen Bridge and Nanshuiguan Bridge.
The first bridge, Beishuiguan Bridge, and the thirteenth bridge, Nanshuiguan Bridge, are both smaller and are stone arch bridges. There are two water gates under the bridge, which go straight into the bottom of the river. In the event of an enemy situation, the water gates will be closed tightly, and soldiers will be stationed on the shore inside the pass.
The second bridge on the Zhihe River from north to south is the "Yingxiang Bridge" built in the early years of the Republic of China. It is also called "Yinyang Bridge" by local people. Legend has it that the Yang family under the flagpole in Wuxi City was very prominent at that time. There were already officials in the court in the late Qing Dynasty. During the Beiyang Government in the early years of the Republic of China, some members of the Yang family held important positions in the Ministry of Finance. One night, all the "hands" (i.e. porters) on the Shengxiang Bridge were called to Yang's house. Several large barges docked at the dock in front of Yang's house on the Zhihe River. Two of these workers carried small wooden boxes from the boat into the house from the alley. Although the box was small, it was quite heavy. When it was almost finished after carrying it for most of the night, the wooden box of one of the people was broken by the rope, and one of the wooden boxes fell to the ground, and the white flowers were thrown to the ground. Only then did the workers realize that they had been transported all night by "Yuan Datou". Afterwards, the Yang family paid those "footworkers" heavily, and soon built a solid reinforced concrete bridge on the river diagonally opposite the academy lane under the flagpole. There were cement guardrails on the side of the bridge, and it was named "Yingxiang Bridge", but the nearby residents secretly only called it "Yinyang Bridge".
(Picture via@all the way to Xihang)
The third bridge is Cangqiao. In the Ming Dynasty, military grain was stored in Yifeng warehouse to the north of Cangqiao, so it was named Cangqiao.
The fourth bridge, Xinshi Bridge, was a wooden bridge when it was first built in the first year of the Republic of China. It was later converted into a cement bridge when Fuxing Road was built.
The fifth Dashi Bridge is also an ancient bridge. During the Revolution of 1911, the "Ancient Guanyin Hall" on the bridge was demolished and rebuilt into a cement bridge. The county is bounded by it. To the south of Dashiqiao, the upper pond is on the west bank and the lower pond is on the east bank. To the north of Dashiqiao, the upper pond is on the east bank and the lower pond is on the west bank.
(Picture via@All the way to Xixing)
The sixth bridge is an ordinary wooden bridge that facilitates pedestrians from Erxiatang to Sanhuang Street, but it is famous and ranks first among many bridges. Anyone who has tasted Wuxi's famous specialty "Sanfeng Bridge" Sauce Pork Ribs will talk about the Sanfeng Bridge, but little is known about Shenyu Meat Shop, which was built in the early years of the Republic of China and is located near the Erxiatang bridge.
The seventh bridge is the Zhongshi Bridge, which was shown on the map of Wuxi County as early as the Hongzhi period in the Ming Dynasty. It is one of the earliest stone arch bridges in Wuxi.
There are also two wooden bridges. One is from the entrance of Huanxi Lane to the other side, named "Huanxi Bridge", and the other is the "Peace Bridge" from Erxiatang Chengxian Bridge to the entrance of Shilangzhong Lane on the other side. They were both built in 1938.
The tenth bridge is the Nanshi Ancient Bridge. During the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, another bridge was built on the Zhihe River. It was a bridge to facilitate pedestrians crossing the river at the South Gate. It was named "Convenience Bridge". This bridge was built between Nanshi Bridge and Nanshuiguan Bridge. It was also called "Zhihe Bridge". This was the eleventh bridge. The above bridges were all demolished one after another when the river was filled before 1958.
(Picture via@all the way to Xihang)
Not far from the Convenience Bridge, a temple called "Xiao Nanhai" was built on a high pier by the river near the Nancheng Gate. In order to facilitate people to enter the temple gate, a small stone bridge was built between the Convenience Bridge and the Nanshuiguan Bridge. It was specially built for monks to walk, so it was named "Duseng Bridge", also called "Xiao Nanhai Bridge". When the south gate city wall was demolished in 1950, Xiaonanhai Temple was completely demolished and moved to the "Yuantouzhu" next to Guangfu Temple , and it is still called "Xiaonanhai".
In the small city of Wuxi, the Xian River bifurcates into several Gong Rivers and Arrow Rivers. There are nearly 40 small rivers . According to Mr. Sun Bingqing's research, there are 58 small bridges of various types on these rivers, and there are as many as 70 cast beams. They are:
Licheng River (Gong River) is the first tributary of the Zhihe River to the east. It leaves the iron bridge from the Yingshan River, goes eastward, follows the city to the south, crosses the convenience bridge, and merges with the Zhihe River. There are also Shuyuan Bridge (Xinqiao), Xinmin Bridge, Huade Bridge, Dongshuiguan Bridge, and Xiaonanhai Bridge (Duseng Bridge) on the river. In 1954, the river was filled and demolished.
The Bow River is divided into nine east-west Arrow Rivers from south to north.Among them, Sanjian River (Ranjing River + Xinkai River) has Ranjing Bridge and Chengxian Bridge, which were filled in and demolished in 1953; Sijian River has Fangsheng Bridge, which was filled in and demolished in 1954; Wujian River (Donghebang) has Jinshi Bridge, which was filled in and demolished in 1957; Liujian River was filled in in 1956. Demolish the bridge; Qijian River, there are Jiangjun Bridge, Chengxian Bridge (Shenxian Bridge) on the river, and the bridges were demolished in 1954; Bajian River, there are Kebao Bridge, Ying Bridge, Hanxiu Bridge (Hanxiu Bridge) on the river, and Huanxiu Bridge (Huanxiu Bridge) and Qingshi Bridge on the revetment river. The bridge was demolished in 1958.
Canghe River (Cangqian New River) is the second branch of the Zhihe River heading east. It leaves Shengxiang Bridge, goes east and turns north to Gonghe River. There are also Xinglong Bridge (Qinglong Bridge) and Lihuangni Bridge (Fengyi Bridge) on the river. In 1953, the river was filled and the bridges were demolished.
There are three bridges built on "Qunuma" in the city park . The south stone bridge is called "Hanbi Bridge", the north stone bridge is called "Zhenyi Bridge", and the stone bridge behind Tonggeng Hall is called "Yihong Bridge" ("Sanqu Bridge", this bridge disappeared a few years ago).
(City Park)
In addition, the Zhihe River branches off into several tributaries to the west:
The first branch flows out of Taiding Bridge (Taiping Bridge), and goes west to Xihetou River (Kudu) and merges with Liulang River. There are also Yudai Bridge (Kudu Bridge) and Huangshi Bridge on the river. In 1958, the river was filled and the bridges were demolished.
The second branch flows out of Huqiao, and goes to the west to Huqiao River. It divides into two channels after Zhucong Bridge. One goes to the south to Yinghe River. There are Zhouqiao, Poqiao and Yingqiao on the river. It turns west and flows into the Yudai River in front of Laoxian County. There is Yudai Bridge on the river. (Zhouqiao, Zhouqiao), Miaoqiao; the westbound one is called Huilong River, with Huilong Bridge on the river, and the southbound Liulang River. Bridges are formed on the river in an orderly manner. The southbound turn turns and joins the Yudai River in the east. From 1950 to 1958, the river was filled in sections and the bridges were demolished.
The third branch flows out of the Otter Bridge, and goes west to the Sanhuang Street River Hou Xixi, Hehuadang, and Qian Xixi, and then turns south and crosses the Ruihong Bridge to enter the Shudai River. There are also Xiaohongni Bridge (East Bridge), Big Hongni Bridge (West Bridge), Maozi Bridge (Moozhu Bridge), Yingxi Bridge, Shexue Bridge, and Stone Bridge on the river. From 1950 to 1956, the river was filled in sections and the bridges were demolished. The fourth branch of
flows out of Hongqiao and goes to the Xiudai River in the west. There are also Xuexue Bridge, Tafang Bridge, Yan Bridge, Huangshi Bridge and Xishuiguan Bridge on the river. It leaves Xishuiguan and enters the Huancheng River and Liangxi River. In 1956, the river was filled and the bridge was demolished.
Since the Liulang River was first filled in in 1950, and the Bajian River and other rivers were finally filled in in 1958, there is no longer a river or bridge in the old city of Wuxi except for the city park.
(The Victory Gate on Zhongshan Road in 1964. In the past, the city of Wuxi was identified as the Victory Gate).
I think of the rivers in the city back then. Due to the year-round regulation of Taihu Lake and the canal water system, the water flow has strong self-purification capabilities. In addition, the water pollution is light, the river water is clear all year round, and the river is rich in fish, shrimp, snails (called "Snails" by Wuxi people) and other aquatic animal resources. You can get something by fishing in the river at ordinary times or by setting up a net during the rainy season. Eels also appear in the Yangtze River during the flood season. It is common for residents of Zhenhe families in the city to wash rice, wash vegetables, and wash clothes in the river, and then carry the river water back to add alum and drink it. Now when I recall the scene from that time, I still have endless memories.
(Text: Qin Zhaoxiang, Qin Yan, Yu Zhuliang; published in Jiangnan Evening News, with some deletions)
