Putian is popular again. This time, about Balenciaga's most popular shoe model, Triple S, in 2017.
Triple S
That's the thing. A foreign consumer discovered that the shoe was Made in Italy, and now it says Made in China. Later, the official said that the manufacturer of Triple S had moved from Italy to Putian, China because it could produce a lighter Triple S, which triggered a series of reports.
Everyone emphasized a problem, the price of the shoe is still US$850.
Yi Yang Qianxi Wearing Triple S, quickly put away my fan face
There is news that this incident has caused heated discussion in the industry, and an excerpt from "A industry insider said that Balenciaga's move may have a certain negative impact on consumers' desire to buy."
is a little surprised. It turns out that today, people still think that China's manufacturing is a black spot? I still naively thought this belonged to the old past.
I talked to several professionals and tried to present the truth about making in China now.
Triple S
"Dongguan's footwear manufacturing industry is the world's top!"
said this and was Cheng Hanqiang, the founder of HAMS, a brand that focuses on shoes. "Maybe in the future, shoes all over the world will be made in Dongguan and Putian."
I think Cheng Hanqiang is a Taiwanese with a strong sense of national cultural mission, which can be seen from his name. His family has operated a shoe factory in Dongguan for 15 years and has cooperated with many international big brands. In 2015, he chose to start a business, which created a brand HAMS with national culture as the core.
HAMS
"Dongguan's footwear manufacturing industry is the world's top. Now, Putian is also good. When mass production is needed, many people will choose to go to Putian."
He seems very confident about the level of China's manufacturing industry. He thinks that most Chinese people know that international big brands are made in China, or are manufactured in factories in Vietnam and Cambodia. "We are not biased against Chinese manufacturing, but against Chinese brands."
HAMS
Based on this, he emphasizes national culture every season when doing HAMS. He said that he hopes to use Chinese culture, Chinese design, and Chinese production to slowly affect consumers' cognition.
Of course, it is undeniable that brands like him that have not started for a long time cannot have such strong R&D capabilities in terms of technology and capital, but he feels that his advantages lie in the manufacturing capabilities of the family factory and his own design characteristics, and will emphasize the shape of the foot suitable for Chinese: "The shallower arch, the higher foot top, and the insole are also used with space memory foam, which is more suitable for Chinese people in design."
HAMS
In addition to making in China, he also recognizes Chinese companies, such as Anta. Anta started its business in Fujian and has strong manufacturing capabilities. It acquired FILA and has developed rapidly. The latest news is that Anta's market value exceeds 100 billion. "Now, Chinese brands and the Chinese market are in a reshuffle stage, although local consumers do not have high recognition of local brands," said Cheng Hanqiang.
"We do ODM for Vera Wang!"
Cai Zhonghan, chief brand officer of Guangdong Mingrui Group, was surprised to hear him talk about his cooperation with international brands such as Vera Wang at the dinner table. You can't write it casually on the dining table, but the parts you can write are enough to have a sense of superiority in manufacturing.
I asked him which international brands he worked with, and he replied to a lot of my names—David's Bridal, Vera Wang, David Tutera, Adriana Alier, Teri Jon, ROSA CLARA, Pronovias.
The most conspicuous ones are Vera Wang, which everyone loves, and the famous Spanish wedding brand Pronovias.
Ministry of Via ODM Vera Wang
What is ODM? Simply put, it is all about design and manufacturing. Mingrui produces 10,000 or 20,000 Vera Wang wedding dresses every year, and the brand will give them a small design concept, and then they will design and produce them.
Mingrui is an old enterprise. The predecessor Chaowei Factory was established in 1955 and renamed Mingrui in 1993. It can be seen that Chaowei is a major feature of the enterprise.As early as the late 1970s and early 1980s, Mingrui began to process famous foreign brands, and its manufacturing level was very strong.
Minrui ODM Vera Wang
I asked Cai Zhonghan, what is Mingrui’s biggest advantage in production? He believes it is quality control, "the quality control of wedding dresses is more difficult."
Is the same brand made in China worse than the origin? I asked Teacher Wang Zhuo about this question. He is the founder of Xinzhi Lixing, former full-time vice president of the China Clothing Association, deputy director of the China Clothing Industry Economics Research Institute, and an absolutely senior professional in the clothing industry.
He popularized the general situation of international brands processing in China: "International brands are relatively common in China, especially ready-to-wear brands and sports brands, such as Nike, Adidas, ZARA, UNIQLO, etc. Light luxury or luxury categories, such as COACH and Burberry, have begun to establish their own processing plants in China.
Foreign mid-range brands have also processed very large amounts in China, such as GANT, Brooks Brothers, etc. Especially American fashion brands, Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY, Ralph Lauren, etc. China is their main production place."
Burberry 2017 Autumn and Winter Release
Wang Zhuo believes that China's clothing processing level, in addition to the traditional European manufacturing powerhouses France and Italy, is medium to upper level all over the world. With the reform and opening up, China's manufacturing level has gradually improved, objectively speaking, it is no less than the level of Eastern Europe and Western Europe , and must be better than the level of South Asia, reaching the level of European second-rate manufacturing countries. In the international industry, made in China is not shameful and can be trusted.
COACH1949's 2018 spring and summer release
However, in terms of luxury goods, the same brand of Chinese and manufacturing from origin cannot be generalized.
"Some products that boast manufacturing processes will have exclusive factories and exclusive manufacturing processes, such as Bottega Veneta. Those who emphasize special crafts are better in Italy, which is also a requirement for brand marketing. There are also brands like Loro Piana, and some products that emphasize special craftsmanship manufacturing are indeed better in Italy."
Bottega Veneta 2018 Spring and Summer Release
Generally speaking, consumers generally believe that Italian manufacturing is better than Chinese manufacturing, which is not necessarily correct. The general level of Italian manufacturing is still good, but it is also divided into regions, such as the northern region. Especially companies that insist on manual manufacturing and use high-quality and sophisticated machines, and have many years of processing experience, are basically small factories and small workshops, with their unique features. However, the design level of the Naples region in southern Italy may be relatively high, but it is difficult to make a conclusion on how much higher the manufacturing level is than that of China. ”
Loro Piana
So, if he buys clothes himself, he basically won’t care which one is made. But as mentioned above, some products emphasize special craftsmanship and top-grade fabrics exclusive to certain regions, and their origin may be better than those made in China.
"Generally speaking, Chinese manufacturing will not be bad either."
designers are high-ranking, but manufacturing is low?
I am design control, but within the brand category, I am not only design theory.
has always been seriously underestimated in manufacturing and processing. It seems to represent only mechanical and cheap labor, and it seems to be in creating value. How much role has it been. The workers in the manufacturing industry in China generally have a low status. Even in some clothing factories, their wages are higher than those in white-collar workers in second- and third-tier cities. We always say that the manufacturing industry in Europe is excellent, but don’t forget that the social status of their manufacturing practitioners is much better. This is a mutually promoting process.
We are so passionate about words such as craftsmanship and craftsmanship, but it only relates to some advanced and rare skills, and will never be associated with textile factory workers. In fact, it is particularly suitable for grassroots personnel in the manufacturing industry, but it lacks the guidance of such values from oneself to the external environment.
Bottega Veneta released
In addition to simply sewing fabrics into clothes, China has a strong strength in processing links, such as the process of handicrafts, such as Suzhou Zhenhu embroidery.I remember that my teacher Gong Jianpei took us to a printing and dyeing factory in Nantong . The tie-dyeing process in Nantong is very strong. I saw some kimonos there, and the orders are placed by Japanese brands. "Huayi" is responsible for the "fish roe knot" craftsmanship, which is quite exquisite. Teacher Gong said that in the field of tie dyeing, the tie-tiring process is very powerful in China, and the dyeing process is very powerful in Japan.
So you see, in fact, in all aspects of manufacturing, domestic products have not lost track, and some are still ahead of the curve.
As consumers, when we really spend thousands or tens of thousands of dollars, and when we see made in China, what do you really feel?
Triple S
There is another thought. The major changes in the media in recent years have caused the decline of media in the clothing industry, and I have experienced this process as a former practitioner. Will new media pay attention to the industry now?
is rare.
Because all practitioners now passively or actively need to pursue reading volume, pure industrial content cannot support good-looking numbers. In recent years, in the clothing industry, the new generation of designers have a lack of understanding of the industrial chain than before. They lack channels for understanding, and are too lazy to find relevant content and do not pay attention to it. I think this is also one of the reasons why designer brands find it difficult to control costs. As for the general public, even less knowledge about production that is real and relevant to themselves is needed.
From the industry to consumers, we still lack the importance and basic understanding of production, let alone respect.
Of course, China's manufacturing is not only good, so if you buy counterfeit and shoddy products, you have to come to the message area to scold me. There must be bad things. I can only say that the overall improvement is very obvious. Made in China should not be a black spot.
If China's design power is sincerely combined with these industrial powers, perhaps Chinese brands and Chinese manufacturing will reach a new level.
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