Earlier, from day to evening, in the alleys of Niujie, Ma Qibo’s long cry was heard: "Sweet and sour soybean juice is cooked and cooked." , Widely welcomed by residents. Guo Degang's cross talk also introduced it: to identify who is a Beijinger, he poured a bowl of soy juice on one of them. After swallowing it, the host asked if there was a focal circle? Don't ask, this is a Beijinger who didn't run.
is a local snack in old Beijing, soy bean juice is naturally loved by old Beijingers. When I was young, I had to pass through Ciqikou on the way to work. There was a famous "Jinxin Soybean Juice Shop" in Nine Cities south of the road, and customers were always there. At that time, after get off work, the young man had to play a few times to "knock the three", and everyone agreed that the loser would ask for soybean juice. Master Lu, Master Wang and I are always winners, and we often drank victory bean juice. However, the rule stipulates that only soy juice should be used, and the burnt rings, pickles, and biscuits are not included. On the day of
, after we were seated as the winner, we were presented with a bowl of steaming soy juice. Looking around, diners are all drinking soy juice and eating coke rings and pickles. I also wanted to buy some at my own expense, but was stopped by the client: "Let's just drink the soy juice naked. You can't break the rules..." "Tuck, how can this hold me? There is no coke circle. It won't affect my combat effectiveness at all." Drinking naked has the benefits of drinking naked, and the taste is stronger. Come on, I just picked up the bowl and slid around, drinking while wandering. I sucked and dried three bowls in a row, wiped my mouth, and said goodbye. That energy is refreshing. Our feat made the neighboring diners stunned...Z2z
Da Huizhong, a folklore expert who is over eighty years old, has a lot of research on Beijing snacks. Da Lao said that when it comes to Beijing snacks, bean juice is the first choice. There was an old saying in the past, you can’t drink soybean juice, you are not a Beijinger! Soy juice has a strange smell, you say it is sour, and it also has a rotten taste. Outsiders don’t understand that it smells so unpleasant, why do these individuals still have a taste for drinking? There is a joke that a Shandongese asked for a bowl of soy juice at a small stall in Beijing. He picked up the bowl and took a sip and then vomited. He told the stall owner that the shopkeeper should stop selling it. You are rotten. The stall owner said, soy bean juice is sour, I won't sell it if it's not sour! This is actually a regional difference. Shandong people grind soybeans into soy milk, which they call soybean juice, and when they arrive in Beijing, they use the fermented mung bean slurry to call it soybean juice.
To talk about soybean juice, it has a history of more than 1,400 years. It originated in the Liao and Song dynasties. In fact, soybean juice is originally made from mung bean starch and leftovers of vermicelli, that is, the water and residue of the soup that has precipitated. Slowly a kind of food sold on the street has been formed. When I was a child, I heard a shout from the stall: "Soybean juice is boiling, pickled vegetables are white." (meaning for nothing). Those guys who rely on hard work to support their families sit on long benches and ask for a bowl of soy juice, pickles and pickles out of their nests to eat and drink. This is a meal. To this day, there are still many customers at Jinxin Soybean Juice Store in the North Gate of Temple of Heaven and Niujie Baoji Soybean Juice Store.
The traditional Peking opera "The Story of Bean Juice" tells the story of "the golden jade slave beats the lover". It is said that the beggar helped Jin Song and his daughter to save his son Mo Ji with soybean juice on a heavy snowy day. After Mo Ji rejected the Jin father and daughter after high school, he pushed his wife Jin Yunu into the Yangtze River and was rescued by another senior official. For the righteous daughter. When Mo Ji paid his respects to his boss, Jin Yunu beat her husband with a club. This play happened to also advertise for Douzhier.
has an introduction on the wall of the old Ciqikou Douzhier Store: Douzhi has a long history. It is said that it was a popular food as early as the Liao and Song Dynasties. In the eighteenth year of Qianlong (1753), someone went to the hall and said that recently a new bean juice has been sent to inspect whether it is clean and drinkable. If there is nothing unclean, there are two or three bean juice craftsmen from Yunbu Fenbu. The imperial dining room is on duty. Thus, the folk bean juice became Gongyan's royal meal. Old Beijing’s famous traditional flavor snack bean juice, with green color, rich juice, sour and slightly sweet, is Beijing’s unique flavor of winter and spring liquid snacks. Especially the old Beijingers have a special preference for it. It is said in "Song of Yandu Small Foods" that the dross can be used as porridge, and the flavor of old pulp is thin and thick. All men and women sit together, each with a mouthful of salt.
Among the hundreds of kinds of snacks in old Beijing, soybean juice is second to none. People regard drinking soybean juice as a kind of enjoyment. In fact, no matter who drank the first sip of soybean juice when he was a child, the swill-like smell would make it difficult to swallow. But the children often drink with the adults, and the feeling is different. Later, there is nothing that is not addictive. Soybean juice is so wonderful. Insiders of
said that making soy juice is a kung fu job, and it must be fermentedPut the later soy juice into a pot with water and boil, add the fermented soy juice to a boil, keep it warm with a low heat, so that the front and back of the spoon must not be pushed in one direction. The boiled soy juice should be eaten and served as you please. Regardless of its shame, it has been loved by Beijingers over the years. The reason is that it is very rich in protein, vitamin C, crude fiber, and has the effects of dispelling heat, clearing away heat, warming yang, strengthening the spleen, appetizing, detoxifying, and removing dryness.
Drinking bean juice must be served with extremely finely chopped pickles. The water lump marinated in the old salty soup must be cut into thin pieces, mixed with chili oil, and fried golden coke rings, to have a unique flavor. Since the bean juice was served on the emperor's table, over time, it became the preference of the emperor's imperial concubine. They found that after eating greasy and fat food, drinking a bowl of hot soybean juice is so comfortable, and it can fight fire, eliminate food, moisturize dryness, and detoxify, and can also produce a different kind of food that cannot be brought. The taste is even called the indispensable "natal food" by the Manchus. According to legend, when Emperor Xianfeng's Zi Palace returned to Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi rushed from Chengde to Beijing anxiously, and immediately spread the imperial restaurant to serve soybean juice when she arrived in the Forbidden City. The queen mother urgently needs to defeat the fire, and soy juice is the best food for eliminating fire.
In the early years, there was a strange phenomenon in drinking soybean juice. It was not shameful that people in suits and leather shoes, long robes and mandarins and a bare-backed driver sat on a board to drink soybean juice. At that time, regardless of whoever drank soy juice together, he could be rich and poor. It seems that the bean juice is indeed an interesting product that is both elegant and popular. Source of
Beijing Daily Client | Author Liu Lianliang
Editor: Zhang Peng
Process Editor Tai Shaofeng
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