▲ Anshun Tianxing Bridge Scenic Area. Photography/Shi Yaochen
-风物君语-
In addition to Maotai, Red Culture and Huangguoshu
What else is there in Zunyi and Anshun?
north of Guiyang , Zunyi guards the Sichuan-Guizhou portal .
Guiyang southwest , Anshun is located in the hinterland of central Guizhou.
As a transportation hub adjacent to the provincial capital, the two cities have completely different temperaments - Zunyi has always been the Sichuan-Guizhou artery and is also the " northern Guizhou granary", which is a must-have for military strategists; Anshun City was an important commercial town in ancient times, with beautiful mountains and rivers, and the scenery is not inferior to that of Jiangnan.
People from other provinces know Guizhou, and most of them start with "a bottle of wine, a room and a tree" .
Although "without Moutai Town , there will be no Moutai" , Moutai has always been much more famous than Zunyi Renhuai's Moutai Town ; in addition to fine wine, people are more interested in Zunyi The impression of always stays at the Zunyi Conference , which is called the "turning point" of .
As for Huangguoshu Waterfall, which is like the Milky Way falling from the sky, it has become known all over the world since Xu Xiake made it famous. In contrast, the Guizhou Anshun where Huangguoshu Waterfall is located always looks gentle, silent, low-key and subtle.
These two cities have distinctive temperaments and can be called the "heroic land" and "gentle town" of Guizhou.
Zunyi, Sichuan and Guizhou are full of grains.
It is no accident that Zunyi can become a famous turning city in history.
▲ Zunyi City terrain overview. Cartography/Paprika
First of all, Zunyi is a towering mountain city. The Dalou Mountain that separates Guizhou and Chongqing is its vigorous hero.
The most dangerous place, Loushanguan, is located in a valley with a length of 430 kilometers. It connects to the municipality Chongqing in the north and the provincial capital Guiyang in the south. It is praised by historians as "Ten thousand peaks reaching into the sky, connecting the middle to the front line". Long before the Red Army's Long March on , it occupied an important position in history.
, When Yang Duan led his troops to pacify Bozhou (today's Zunyi, Guizhou), this place had become an important battlefield. Two of Yang's subordinates, Lou Shan and Liang Guan, were stationed here, and it was called "Loushan Liangguan" was later rumored to be "Loushanguan" , which was the beginning of the place name; Bozhou Yang's continued 7 centuries , and when the counter-rebels became rebels, relying on The last chieftain, Yang Yinglong, who stubbornly resisted the advantage of the terrain, was defeated at Loushanguan Pass in the "Battle of Pingbo" in the Wanli Period. He was finally defeated and died, which sounded the "chieftain system" The death knell.
▲ Hailongtun. Photography/Yang Jian
The Hailongtun that the Yang family relied on was a mountain fortress built by during the Song and Yuan Dynasties to resist the Mongolian cavalry. It echoed the Fishing City in Hezhou (today's Hechuan District of Chongqing). The intention is to rely on the mountainous terrain to "stop riding with steps" . In the end, as Meng Ge died unexpectedly in Diaoyu City, the army detoured eastward and led troops to Xiangyang . This fortress suffered the loss of the country and the family before it could shed blood. The sadness of a hero's twilight years.
Secondly, this Qianbei Xiongcheng still has flowing water lingering , and the winding river is her passionate soft intestine .
On the west side, the "Fine Wine River" flows gurglingly, from Renhuai to Luzhou in Sichuan, with endless water and endless boating; while in the south, the Wujiang basin's Meitan and Fenggang, tens of millions of acres of tea fields are like the blue sea, and everything is green as far as the eye can see. It’s hard to imagine that China’s two oldest drinks actually met in the same place and became famous for a while.
▲ The Red Army crossed Chishui Maotai Ferry for the third time. The red building in the distance is the Monument for the fourth crossing of Chishui. Photography/Li Guiyun
The first thing good water brings is naturally good wine. There are many fine wines in Zunyi. In addition to the famous Moutai, there are also Dongjiu, Xishui Daqu, Zhenjiu, Yaxijiao, etc., all of which are famous as "wine heroes".
Chishui River originates from Yunnan and flows through Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan. Three-quarters of the watershed is hidden in the mountains, with many cliffs and dangerous shoals. It is like a hermit in the mountains who teaches Taoism. Natural, not tainted by human habits. Therefore, the river water is clear and transparent, and the soil in the Chishui River Valley is soft and has large pores. - the "Ren and Du Meridians" are naturally connected! Very useful for filtering water. In addition, the climate is humid, which is conducive to the growth and enrichment of microbial communities during the winemaking process.
Such a favorable environment has made the area along the Chishui River produce fine and famous wines since ancient times. These fine wines have attracted visitors from all over the world and have become the food in their cups. They have also become one of the pillars of Zunyi's development, helping it to secure its second place in Guizhou's economy. Top spot" .
The flat land in the mountains, known as the "Bazi" , has become a rare fertile soil that is conducive to agricultural planting through irrigation by running water. Not only has it achieved the reputation of as the "Granary of Northern Guizhou", but it is also rich in a rather heroic crop - peppers.
Located in Xiazi Town, 433 kilometers east of Zunyi City, the locals have been obsessed with the cultivation of chili peppers since the 1990s, and have even developed a chili pepper wholesale market. From a small shrimp in the world, it has become a He has become the leader in the "spicy world" in the country.
Looking at the legend of Xiazi Town, it can be roughly divided into three generations of inheritance - Guisanhong Farmers Market in the old town was the "originator" in the 1990s, and now there is only one spicy-related condiment shop left; Zhenbei The second generation of "descendants" has been transformed into a local farmer's market; and today's "head" chooses to open in a prominent location next to a highway intersection, equipped with a dedicated cold storage, trading area, office building , and even A small exhibition hall .
There are chili peppers produced in Henan, Shandong, Sichuan, Xinjiang and other places, just like heroes from various factions who heard the news; there are also "foreign masters" from India, South Korea, and Myanmar who gather here specially to gather. Compete. However, the highest unit price has always been the local specialty chili pepper. Unfortunately, the authentic descendant of the "shrimp pie", perhaps because of the master's pretensions, has disappeared from the world - most of the chili peppers now named shrimp are produced in the surrounding areas. counties and towns.
Anshun is both a distant place and a hometown.
Anshun is a "gentle town" that is nostalgic for both tourists from afar and local residents.
▲ Topographic overview of Zunyi City. Cartography/Paprika
is located in the watershed zone of the Wujiang River Basin and the Beipanjiang River Basin. Anshun is a typical karst landform concentration area in the world. The thickness of its carbonate rock reaches the total thickness of sedimentary rocks. More than 70% of is . The surface of the earth has been washed by running water. Whether on the ground or underground, there are strange mountains and rivers with infinite scenery.
To the west of the main scenic spot of Huangguoshu, the Dishuitan Waterfall of Guanling is the highest in the world in terms of height. The waterfall falls layer by layer from Guansoling, with a total height of 4,410 meters, which is six times that of Huangguoshu Waterfall. It is like a white line crossing the sky, draped over the strange peaks, and flowing into the Baling River. There are mighty torrents, and there are villages and located in the mountains. The landscape and the people are like a painting.
▲ Dishuitan Waterfall.Photography/Li Guangrong
The underground Dragon Palace is like a fairy cave. It integrates karst landforms such as caves, waterfalls, stone forests, funnels, and underground rivers. It can be called the masterpiece of karst scenery. Among them, there are more "spiritual medicines", and more than a thousand kinds of natural Chinese herbal plants can be found everywhere, as if they were written by immortals and bequeathed to future generations.
▲ Anshun Tianxing Cave. Photography/Shi Yaochen
Along the Getu River in Ziyun County, Anshun, natural scenery and ethnic customs have reached a symbiosis. There are the wonders of thousands of swallows returning to their nests in the caves, the remains of ancient rivers that record the vicissitudes of life, and the natural shafts that pass through hundreds of meters of rock formations; while the Miao people living along the river are like a paradise. In He'anju, the traditional "Flower Dance Festival" is still lively, and the song of "King Yalu" echoes endlessly among the mountains...
▲ The "Flower Dance Festival" of the Miao people. Photography/Bing Yifu Photo courtesy/Shuai Xuejian
These scenery make Anshun become a "distant place" in the hearts of foreigners, but in the eyes of local people, this small town is their familiar "hometown".
This feeling of hometown is first reflected in the Anshun snacks that countless wanderers love.
▲ Small pot of jelly. Photography/Li Lihong
Anshun was built in the Ming Dynasty and was the fortress of the ancient Yunnan-Guizhou passage. The ancients called it "the throat of Yunnan, the belly of Guizhou, and the lips and teeth of Shu and Guangdong". This geographical location makes Anshun an important commercial port in Guizhou. The prosperity of the economy has also brought about the prosperity of the food culture. The so-called "eat and drink in Anshun, dress in Guiyang" , in Anshun, there is only one best way to get around the city: eat there.
Wrapped roll is a classic cold snack in Anshun. You can see it everywhere when walking around the late-night snack stalls. First, the pink skin is refreshingly cold, and then comes the various crunchy fillings: sour radish, mung bean sprouts, crispy soybeans , paired with the sauce, which is sweet and spicy with a little sour, and it is full of relaxation and pleasure between the lips and teeth. .
▲ wrapped in volume. Photography/Li Gang Huiyun
The fried chicken cake from looks quite like the Guizhou version of "sandwich" - rice and soybeans are first thickened, then pounded together with rice and minced vermicelli. It is made into a slurry, cooled and shaped, filled with fillings, then sealed with slurry and fried in a pan. The deep-fried chicken cake has a crispy golden shell and a snow-white interior. Before eating, it must be topped with the essence of Guizhou cuisine - folded ear root and spicy sauce.
▲ Fried chicken cake. Photography/Li Lihong
It is said that people in Anshun don’t like big dishes, and the casual street snacks lock in modern people who are in a hurry, slowing down and lengthening their days. Stop on the street and talk to the mother-in-law who makes rice noodles and the old man who makes fried chicken and cakes on the street. You will know exactly who is hosting the wedding banquet and which household is building a high-rise building. During the chat, the feeling of hometown spreads.
▲ Anshun night view. Photography/Zhang Lutang
Another kind of nostalgia in the time dimension comes from the recollection of ’s past hometown..
Among the mountains, in the large and small Tunbu , the buildings are mostly made of stone, vaguely bearing the traces of the "Great Migration" - the 14th year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty ( In 1381), Zhu Yuanzhang launched a massive "Turn the North and Conquer the South" battle, from Guizhou to Yunnan, to pacify Yunnan , which lasted no more than a month.
According to "Da Ming Huidian" , after the war, .3 million army conquered the south, and .2 million people were stationed in Guizhou, southwest of Yongzhen. Anshun, which was "the key to Yunnan and Guizhou" , was the centerpiece. heavy. Among the conscripts, those who already had wives would come here with their families to get together; for those who were not yet married, the court would "arrange marriages." Since then, countless forts have become the frontiers of the empire.
▲ One of the old photos of Anshun brought by Philippe Fadan and made into postcards.The photo shows Anshun East Street in the old days. It was probably market day and the streets were full of stalls. Photo courtesy/Du Yingguo
▲ The current appearance of Jiuzhou Town, Xixiu District, Anshun City. Photography/Yin Gang
So far, there is almost only Anshun in Guizhou, which still retains the imprint of this history - in Jiuxi, the Dabao people in the southeastern lower reaches tell the story of their ancestors who followed them more than 600 years ago. It tells the story of Fu Youde, the Ming general who was "number one in terms of merit", who was stationed here; in Tianlong Tunbao, Zhang Zhongxiu, the concubine, handed tea to travelers at the teahouse while explaining the feelings of family and country. Tunpu headdress ; on Rulin Road , as a witness to the past events of Hongwu period, Confucian Temple is the starting point of Anshun cultural context, and the pair of open-carved dragon pillars in front of Dacheng Hall is still a treasure of the town. .
▲ Confucian Temple. Photography/Li Lihong
The majestic Anshun Dixi is like the Tunpu people paying respect to their ancestors between heaven and earth - "The golden drums are noisy, and everyone sings together" The sound of Yiyang accent stops the moving clouds , is the "spiritual bag" brought by the Ming army from Jiangnan ; the rough and sacred earth opera masks , do as the Romans do, obviously with the religious color of Nuo opera ; only focuses on martial arts movements, not The content of "Children love each other for a long time" always makes it clear that this is the descendant of iron-blooded soldiers.
▲ Anshun people are watching local opera. Photography/Li Guiyun
The rise and fall of Shuangbi, a tea town
Guizhou is a tea town.
As a "benchmark" tea area that perfectly fits the conditions of "high altitude, low latitude, cloudy and foggy, and little sunshine", this land retains a complete sequence of tea development history . And it produces many types of tea, and the tea industry belt is spread all over the province. Among them, the tea industry in Anshun represents the "highlight moment" of Guizhou tea in history; and the tea industry in Meitan, Zunyi marks the revitalization of Guizhou tea in modern times.
▲ Guizhou Province Tea Industry Belt. Cartography/Paprika
In Anshun, the Ming Dynasty’s “Tune the North and Conquer the South” left many Jianghuai immigrants who were good at making tea. The soldiers forged swords into plows, turned to farming, and planted rows of "ridge tea" in the fields. With the technology of making tea in small pots brought from the south of the Yangtze River, the quality of tea was greatly improved. It once became one of the tribute products of tribal chieftains, especially the "maojian" and "tongue" of Pingba.
In the Tunpu of that year, tea drinking was very popular. Walking at the intersection of the village, you can see tea sheds everywhere. The locals boil the locally produced small turmeric and ancient tree tea together, and serve them in large bowls to comfort the soldiers traveling from south to north. Businessmen.
▲ In Tianlong Tunbao, the maid Zhang Zhongxiu was pouring a large bowl of tea for the guests. Photography/Zhang Lutang
And Anshun is located in the watershed area of Wujiang watershed and Pearl River watershed. , "dry dock" 's geographical advantage made the business here rise early. By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was " The prosperity of commerce is the best in the whole province.”. Businessmen traveling from north to south have boosted the local economy and formed a tea-drinking culture. So Anshun people took up the task and went out to villages to sell tea, thus gradually gaining the reputation of "tea town" .
▲ Guizhou Anshun Yanla Mountain Tea. Photography/Liao Liwen
But the same geographical location also caused Anshun to miss a good opportunity. According to Mr. Zhang Tianfu, a leading figure in the tea industry, in 1939, the Central Agricultural Experimental Institute of the National Government moved westward to Guizhou. When selecting its site, it finally settled on two places: one is the Mekong River in Zunyi today. Tan County , the other is Anshun Xixiu District . The environmental conditions of the two are similar, but in the end, because Meitan is close to Chongqing, Anshun missed this "god-given opportunity".
In Meitan County, Zunyi, the plot is completely different.
▲ Zunyi Meitan Yongxing Tea House. Photography/Li Guiyun
Meitan is located at the southern foot of Dalou Mountain and on the north bank of Wujiang River. It is located in the golden tea-producing belt at 27 degrees north latitude. The unique environment and the geographical isolation of mountains make the tea here like the "Southern Beauty" that lives in the deep valley. In 1939, with the arrival of the Central Agricultural Experimental Institute, the Central (Meitan) Experimental Tea Farm of the Republic of China was officially established, allowing Originally, was "raised in a boudoir and unknown to people" and 's delicious tea is now astonishing.
▲ Zunyi Meitan Yongxing Tea House. Photography/Liu Jizhang
A year later, Zhejiang University moved westward to , blowing a strong academic wind to this pure land of tea land, which not only brought the production technology of West Lake Longjing tea , It even co-founded the "Guizhou Meitan Practical Vocational School" with the tea farm, which trained a group of technical backbones in the tea industry and ignited the revival of the Chinese tea industry.
▲ Zhejiang University old photos. Photo courtesy of Zhejiang University Archives
At that time, China was at a stalemate in the war, all export ports on the eastern coast of were blocked, and the export of tea, an important source of foreign exchange for the country, dropped sharply. The Central Experimental Tea Farm responded to the call and successfully developed the "Mae Red" and "Mae Green" tea gardens under the auspices of the first farm director Liu Ganzhi. The capital and military equipment also created the history of Guizhou's production of Gongfu black tea and fried green tea.
▲ The current location of Zhejiang University is the Guizhou factory export base. Photography/Learning Image
Today, with the revitalization of Guizhou's tea industry, the tea garden area of Meitan has exceeded .6 million , becoming the second county of in China. There are large and small tea gardens built in various tea areas. The Chaqing trading market has 35 s, allowing a large number of Chaqings to enter the market within half an hour of and . In 2018, Meitan's total tea output reached 467,700 tons, with an output value of 44.82 billion, involving 488,000 farmers and nearly 600 tea companies. The poverty alleviation industry has gradually become a way to get rich. .
▲ Meitan green buds and Zunyi red. Photography/Learning Image
is also famous as the "Metan Green Ya" and the "Zunyi Red" among Guizhou's "Three Greens and One Red" , and has frequently won national and even world-class gold medals for famous teas. "Meitan Cuiya", which was born out of the "Longjing" production technology, is a regional public brand, and its brand value has exceeded 10 billion; "Zunyi Red" has become the 19th anniversary of the party. Big and 2018 National Two Sessions tea. The red and green complement each other, which seems to have illuminated the smooth road for Guizhou tea to come out of the mountains.
- END -
text丨Ye Yinxiao
picture editor丨Yuan Qianqian
map editor丨Paprika
Some pictures and text excerpts in this article are adapted from "Authentic Scenery·Guizhou"
References
"A Person's Anshun" Dai Mingxian
"Chinese Chronicles" ·Gui'an》
《Fengwu China Chronicle·Huichuan》
If you want to review more wonderful moments of "Exploring the Origin of Guizhou Tea"
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