In the human memory system, taste memory seems to be less likely to be forgotten. The memories formed by taste stimulation may be more nostalgic. Foodies are the common language of people. There was a man named Zhang Han in the Western Jin Dynasty who was an official in Luoyang. One day, he saw the autumn wind blowing, and suddenly missed the water shield soup and sea bass sashimi in his hometown of Suzhou. He even left without saying goodbye and ran back to his hometown. This is probably a real foodie.
In Taiwan , there is also such a group of people. Because of the political isolation between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait, they are thousands of miles away from home but are difficult to return to their hometown. The longing for their hometown is more rooted in their sense of taste. They have to return to their hometown with the aftertaste of their tongues, lips and teeth, and travel all over China.
There is a special word in Taiwan: " provincial people ", " military village ". In 1949, the soldiers and their families who retreated to Taiwan were called "other provinces" compared to the people of the province, and the villages where people from other provinces lived were called "military villages". There is also a nickname, People from other provinces are called "Taozi", and people from this province call "Sweet Potato" . For example, Zhu Lilun was born in a marriage family in other provinces and was nicknamed "Tao Sweet Potato". Most of the military villages were iron vote areas of the Kuomintang in the election. Through the simple bamboo fence of the military village, the smell of hometown from all over the world is circulating in the air. In the ups and downs of the times, they used food to shorten the distance between their hometown and their hometown until they turned their hometown into their hometown.
Wang Weizhong's military village mother dish
Wang Weizhong
Taiwan's famous TV man Wang Weizhong was born in Chiayi military village. Later, he launched S, Cai Kangyong and "Kangxi is Coming" . The children of military villages all have a strong military village complex. Wang Weizhong also specially filmed the documentary "Weizhong's Mother's Military Village" to commemorate their parents and brothers and that generation of wanderers. "Kangxi is Coming", known for its funnyness, has made many programs for military villages. Artists talked about childhood, neighborhood food and stories of making a living in the military villages. Even friends like Xiao S and Cai Kangyong were stunned.
The military village people who were struggling to demolish the difficulties were simple and combined local ingredients with the skills of their hometowns according to local conditions to make various military village foods. At the beginning, it might be a bun shop, dumpling shop, and kimchi stall at the entrance of the village. The housewives rely on it to supplement their family income, and gradually became the growth memory of the second generation of the military village, and eventually gradually gathered into a variety of military village delicacies.
Wang Weizhong's unique experience in participating in "Kangxi is Coming"
His military village has also emerged, such as Hou Hsiao-hsien, Brigitte Lin, Joey Wong, Cai Qin, Li Liqun in the entertainment industry, Zhu Tianwen, Zhu Tianxin, Su Weizhen, Long Yingtai, Zhang Dachun in the writer circle, etc. Speaking of military village food, the indispensable part is the " Yonghe Soy Milk " that is popular in the mainland. Yonghe soy milk is the soy milk sold by veterans in Taiwan to make a living in Yonghe area of Taipei. It was originally not popular with locals. Later, after integration, it entered the mainland but became famous in one fell swoop and became a food card in Taiwan.
Director Lai Shengchuan and written by Wang Weizhong, stills of the military village drama "Treasure Island Village"
There was a very popular book in the mainland in the past two years, Liao Xinzhong's "We Taiwan Years" , mentioned the origin of military village food:
I have to mention " Sichuan-style braised beef noodles ", which is something that was not available before, was made by these old men from other provinces, driven by homesickness, with the existing food ingredients in Taiwan.
Another more famous example is that the most famous specialty in Gangshan, Kaohsiung is Mingde spicy bean paste. It turned out that Gangshan was located at the Air Force Officer School
. The Kuomintang finally brought a group of people from Chengdu to stay here to form a military village. These veterans had nothing to do and had to make their own hometown specialties to sell them. Unexpectedly, they even sold them.
In Taiwan, there are many people who rely on their homesickness through their diet, such as:
Lin Haiyin: Looking for old things under the south of the city
Lin Haiyin
Lin Haiyin
Taiwanese writer who spent his teenage years in Beijing Lin Haiyin wrote the famous "World Things in the south of the city ", recalling the past from a childhood perspective. The warm childhood and faint sorrow embellished by the donkeys in the capital, the minced meat cakes, and the sugar-changing vendor have infected generations, and the adapted movie of the same name has also become popular and sparked a wave of nostalgia.
After Lin Haiyin returned to Taiwan, she edited the supplement of "United Daily" and became a famous newspaperman. The mother and daughter also compiled a book called "Chinese Tofu", which brought together a group of tofu articles about writers and scholars, including tofu essays, tofu textual research, tofu in hometown, and stories about eating tofu overseas. In fact, due to the geographical conditions in Taiwan, the island of Taiwan was limited to soybean cultivation, and locals did not like to eat tofu, soy milk and other products. Their edited this book also expressed their own homesickness and to a certain extent, they also expressed their square, generous, soft and indifferent way of dealing with the world.
Stills of "Old Things in the South of the City"
Liang Shiqiu: Yashe talks about eating, recalling the beauty of food
Liang Shiqiu
Mr. Liang Shiqiu initially called his study "YaShe", but it was in Beibei, Chongqing in 1940, and it was called "YaShe". In fact, it was also a broken thatched hut, but it did not affect the author's talk about food and beverages everywhere. After arriving in Taiwan, it is even more difficult to taste food from all over the mainland due to the living environment and economic conditions. Perhaps this prompted the author to indulge in his prose and recall various food styles.
For example, "Crab":
Someone in Taiwan made a special trip to Hong Kong to eat hairy crabs. Many years ago, a friend of mine brought back a basket of crabs from Hong Kong and shared two of them, and got a kiss. Crabs do not have to be large. In the clear and refreshing autumn season, whenever the rice and sorghum on the mainland are ripe, the crabs are mostly produced. In Peking and in Shanghai, hawkers shouted all over the streets with crabs.
Liang Shiqiu's calligraphy
can be seen. Even a decent food expert like Liang Shiqiu ate crabs many years ago, but now even thinking about crabs is endless aftertaste. At this time, he was lingering in the food, which was like a sentimental spiritual journey, savoring the osmanthus boiled chestnuts in West Lake, the squirrel yellow croaker in Chunhualou, and the char sap ham in Liuchunwu, Chongqing... There must be some bitterness in the scent of the tongue.
"China on the Bite of the Tongue" says that home-cooked taste is like teaching the mother's mother's sense of taste deeply in the children's memory. This is an unconscious instinct. Once these seeds take root and sprout, no matter how far they go, the familiar smell will remind the child of the direction of his home. Isn’t this the same thing when used on the strait?
original article, from "Nostalgia", what you can see is on today's headlines, and what you can't see is on the "Nostalgia" WeChat public account (Huaihuajiu long press to copy). Reproduction is prohibited without authorization!
