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Day 7 Kenting-Xuhai 57.7km [Total mileage 561.9km]
It was already shining brightly when I woke up in the morning, the sky was so clean that there was no cloud at all, and the sea and sky were extremely beautiful. But the sun was so hot that it was as if it was infected. You could smell the burnt smell of the sun roasting on your skin early in the morning.
After passing Eluanbi, he went straight toward the direction of the 26th line, and then a continuous uphill with a relatively large slope came. Not long after, I started to move up slowly with the 1-1 gear. In my impression, this is the first time since the island is around the island. As a cycling rookie, the tone I set for myself before leaving is to not push the cart, even if I move 1-1, I won’t push it. As a result, except for the great collapse the next day, I persisted in everything else on the entire ring road, and I did achieve my energy beyond my imagination.
As the slope becomes smoother and smoother, the field of view on both sides becomes wider and wider. Meadows begin to appear. You can also see the pure white Eluanbi Lighthouse at the foot of the mountain lay on the ground like a green carpet, and the sea in the distance is dotted, just like a certain picture in Hayao Miyazaki animation. At this time, dopamine may have been secreted to its peak and was in a good mood. When they rushed to a slope, the magnificent Pacific coastline ahead suddenly broke into sight, and suddenly felt that all the hard work was worth it. Finally, TM bid farewell to the frustrated West!
All travel methods are too simple compared to cycling. You can't feel what a 5% slope means, and you can't feel what an 8-kilometer continuous uphill is nothing more than a heavier throttle and a lighter speed, and a faster speed. For cyclists, this may be a question of whether it will arrive today or tomorrow, or even the day after tomorrow. It is whether to sleep on the streets at night, whether to ride a night bike, and buy a few bottles of Red Bull... As a travel transportation method that is closest to the original state, it will make people feel that it is not easy to travel in the mountains and rivers and to obtain beautiful scenery. It’s really not that I have never seen any strong winds and waves in the Pacific Ocean, but I just have a different mood.
followed by a long downhill, blowing the cool Pacific Ocean breeze all the way. The collapsed journey in the morning was thrown out of the sky. Later I learned that this route from Kenting was called Jiale Water. For the southern end of Taiwan, it is basically at the end of the road. In fact, strictly speaking, starting from the three Taiwanese friends who have separated the South Return Highway (that is, Taiwan Line 9), there are no high-level highways in the entire south, and they are basically two-lane small highways. After passing the Jiale River section, there is no road along the Pacific Coast. Although I have always seen roads on the map before, in fact, the roads along this section are not open to the public. It’s really not clear whether there is or not. Therefore, we could only walk along Jia200 (similar to the domestic county road) into the mountains and come to a place called Manzhou Township for lunch. This is a place where birds do not shit in Taiwan. The transportation is so inconvenient that there is no sense of existence at all.
Manzhou Township all the way down to the coast of the fishing village called Port Chai. We bypassed the mysterious area at the southernmost end of Taiwan (or was there no road construction at all?) and returned to the Taiwan 26 line. This section of the road draws a coastline map of Taiwan Island, which is on the Pacific Ocean, and is suspected to be a forbidden area. It is said that the Qingshui Cliff in Hualien is beautiful and spectacular, but I personally think that the coastal highway from Gangzai to Xuhai is also very, very beautiful, and rarely seen in various road books. At least I can rank first and second in the natural landscapes of Taiwan that I have seen. Of course, I say that because I know no one of you will go to this place at all! This section of the road, the Pacific Ocean is right in front of you, right at your fingertips, right at your fingertips.
Going north along the coastline road, feeling like you have entered a fantasy realm.The water vapor is getting thicker and thicker. We often have to walk through the "green tunnel" surrounded by huge plants, and we have no idea what the road ahead is. Occasionally, dilapidated military camps appear on the roadside, like places that have just been abandoned by humans. After riding for seven or eight kilometers, I saw a naked upper body running by. I confirmed that there were similar people living in such a place, and the uneasiness in my heart decreased. Otherwise, I felt like I was walking in the world after "radiation", and my body was almost soaked in salty water vapor. Bicycle travel is a one-person trip. Although there are travel companions, everyone has different physical strength and rhythm, so it is impossible to keep moving forward at the same speed at any time. Therefore, travel companions can only be a psychological comfort most of the time. During the long and sometimes boring journey, you must learn to talk to yourself.
Finally, I arrived in Xuhai Village before it was dark. I chose the largest family in the village entrance to stay (in fact, it is just staying in, not a homestay...). The boss’s wife is very enthusiastic and feels like she is visiting her relatives’ house in the countryside when she was a child. After dinner, the boss's wife said you must try the hot springs, otherwise you will regret it. The boss lady said it more than three times enthusiastically, okay, then go and have a look. What impressed me in the end was the four-character proverb "I've come here"... But I must say that Asahi Hot Spring is the most comfortable hot spring I have ever soaked, instantly killing the hot springs in Japan that are full of breath. Because it is a weakly alkaline carbonated spring, after soaking, the whole body will naturally be as smooth as Dove chocolate.
Day 8 Xuhai-Tamali 59.1 kilometers [Total mileage 621 kilometers]
Starting from Xuhai, you must first go to Dongyuan Village. This section is a continuous uphill of 8 kilometers and the slope is relatively large. This section of the road is usually the most abused section that everyone thinks is the most cruel to the Climbing Life Card. When I set off, I first came with a bottle of Red Bull, but found that it didn't seem to be of use. The most effective thing is of course to walk slowly 1-1, anyway, it’s just a hard work. Fortunately, I didn't force it up last night, otherwise I would definitely fail here.
leaves Dongyuan Village, facing a continuous uphill of 12 kilometers, with a long distance, but the slope is not particularly large. This time I climbed to the top of the slope and was my longevity card! The weather was cool in the morning, and I listened to the songs. At around 11 noon, I finally rode to the end of County Road 199 - Shouka Tiema Station, which is a Mount Everest-like existence in the minds of all cyclists around the island. Taiwan is friendly to bicycle and its , including this kind of iron horse station. Most of the iron horse stations are together with the police station. They will provide some simple repair tools, free drinking water, and related map information, as well as some stamped stamps. In short, it can at least provide you with shelter from the wind and rain, have water to drink, and have tools to repair the car. For cyclists, this is enough.
I was still a little excited when I arrived at the birthday card. This is the 8th day of the island roundabout. Since I have persisted until now, I believe that I can take all my journeys and feel like victory is in sight. And when I set off, I had another goal, which was to climb onto my birthday card without pushing a cart. Although it is not a difficult task for people who exercise regularly, it is not an easy task for a rookie like me with zero foundation. What's more, I am still riding a huge tank with two huge bags behind it.
Walking down from Shouka, it is already Taiwan Line 9, which is the South Return Highway. Then there is a full 12 kilometers of downhill, and the entire coastal mountain range! After all, it is Daren Township, Taitung County. The most pleasant thing on the road around the island is to encounter such a long downhill. It’s a pity that if you want to enjoy such a downhill, you have to endure the pain of going uphill. And life is not the same. The downhill of Taiwan Line 9 lasted not long before it started turning left and heading north. I saw the fierce Pacific Ocean again and encountered the wind. Very strong wind! After October, Taiwan began to blow the northeast monsoon, so my journey from south to north must be against the wind.
This wind really made me a little stupid. I felt that my work done by both feet was offset by the wind. When I move forward against the wind, my eyes sometimes can't open, and I feel that the bicycle is moving inch by inch, and I don't know when I can move to the destination. The strong wind blew me so hard that I didn't want to say a word, and I really felt like my mind was blown away. Only by sitting at the rest station and gnawing corn that is barely a little calorie can you recover a little bit of mind.
After crossing the Jinlun Bridge, the lights were already on, and I felt that I couldn't move anymore, so I'd better find a hot spring to stay in Jinlun. That is a cheap and good place. Jinlun’s hot spring is a bit similar to Asahi Hot Spring. It is smooth and smooth after soaking. Maybe the same pool of Dove chocolates are shared.
Day 9 Taimali - Success 111 kilometers [Total mileage 722 kilometers]
Due to the loose riding a few days ago, if I didn’t rush the road for a few days, I’m afraid it would be too late to travel around the island. So, today we have to hurry up a little. As soon as Jin Song came out, he went up the hill in a series of continuous uphills, and he wanted to die. Moreover, huge gravel trucks often rush past, and fine sand and stones fell all over the ground, so I wanted to ride this section of the road very quickly.
On the road up and down, you can often see the beautiful Pacific Ocean view to the top of the slope. At this moment, the Pacific Ocean is not as violent as yesterday afternoon. It is like a quiet girl, and the magnificent dark blue makes people feel touched at all times. Feeling the insignificance between people and nature is also an experience I often pursue during travel. Riding a bicycle at a speed of 20 kilometers per hour is suitable for savoring such a scenery. When I rode over the Taimali Bridge, I saw probably the most beautiful railway landscape I have ever seen in my life. The railway shuttles among green tropical plants and leads to the distance along the coastline.
Taimali went downhill and arrived in Taitung City. This is probably the most remote city in Taiwan. According to my friends in Taitung, many Taiwanese have never been to Taitung. Starting from Taitung, Tai9 Line can be divided into two routes. One is called the Long Valley Line, a valley between the Central Mountains and the Coastal Mountains, which is the "Huadong Long Valley"; the other is called the Coastline, which is built along Tai No. 9, which is built in the Pacific Ocean. Simply put, it is the mountain line and the sea line. There are attractions such as Bolang Avenue, Ruisui Ranch, Sixty-Four Mountains, etc. on the mountain line. But to be honest, I personally think the entire vertical valley line has no highlights. The sea line follows the entire east coast of Taiwan, gathering the essence of Taiwan’s scenery, but it is relatively monotonous, namely the Pacific Ocean, the Pacific Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean. When I first came to Taiwan, I had already walked through the sea and mountain lines, and this time I chose the sea line without hesitation.
At noon, we had already rode to Fugang Fishing Port, which is the port to Green Island and Lanyu. The sashimi in Tokuoka Market is really cheap. The 18 thick sashimi that can be eaten with full amounts actually cost only 30 yuan, and the fish are all fresh catches that morning. The seafood fried rice is so delicious that I almost cried, and I wish I had more shrimp than rice!
Enjoy the fishing port tonight, and have a little more at ease with the goal. But the darker the sky makes people feel happy at all. The nighttime jifeng's face becomes more ferocious. At around 7 o'clock in the evening, I finally saw Chenggong Fishing Port in the distance. I was already riding a little confused at that time, and my feet were stepping on them without any sense of consciousness. The moment I saw the homestay, I felt a sense of joy that “the Central People’s Government of the People’s Republic of China has been officially established.”
It was full of wine and I drank Taiwanese beer on a stage by the sea. I smelled the sea breeze with a strong fishy smell. This largest fishing port in East Taiwan had already fallen asleep.
Day 10 Success - Hualien 113 kilometers [Total mileage 835 kilometers]
This day was the most abused day on my entire 12-day roundabout road.The plan is to go straight to Hualien city from Chenggong Fishing Port, with a total distance of nearly 120 kilometers.
:30. When I first left, it was still sunny. The ups and downs of the terrain were no longer as obvious as yesterday, and it did not cause too much physical trouble for me. Moreover, the sound of birds singing and cicadas singing, and the sound of waves slapping on the reefs, making me feel very happy. When you arrive at Fengbin, where Taitung and Hualien, there is a very, very long uphill, which is the first threshold today. I once again sacrificed the 11 Dafa Mills to the top of the hill, and there was a warm 711 waiting for me.
It’s really not too troublesome to eat on 711 every day. With the development of modern society to the present, microwave food can be regarded as a major invention of mankind. Anyway, you can eat dumplings, fried rice, fried noodles, instant noodles, rice balls... everything is available. Moreover, to be honest, the 711 stuff is really not bad, it is the kind that has a little taste. This is the feeling whether in Japan or Taiwan.
The daytime trip was still pleasant. When the sun was not so fierce, I happily arrived at the Tropic of Cancer sign tower. In theory, it was back from the tropics to the northern temperate zone. The dark clouds gradually climbed up in the afternoon, and the feeling of the monsoon became more and more obvious. We were walking alone along the way. Sometimes I ride on the road without a car, with strong winds and continuous climbing hills, the feeling of despair is a feeling of "thinking of the world and being alone at the end of the world."
Finally, the arduous journey of climbing the mountain has begun. The most collapsed part was a big downhill period after a big downhill period, but I thought it would end here, but I didn’t expect there was an endless uphill in front of me. Halfway through the slope, my energy was exhausted, and I couldn't even push the cart. There is no village in front and no shop in the back, and there are almost no vehicles coming and going. I have even tried to raise my hand to stop the car and beg for a ride, but there is still not a single car! After about 5 minutes of collapse and brain short circuit, I suddenly remembered that there was a Snickers I bought in Taichung in my schoolbag. He quickly rummaged through the boxes and took them out. I ate the entire Snickers in 30 seconds. A magical thing happened, not only did my spirit come back from the brink of collapse, but my physical strength also felt reply to . Until now, when I see Snickers, I still remember the life-saving grace I had back then.
A series of tunnels passed and returned to the sea level. It was already dark and there were still 20 kilometers to reach Hualien city. Night riding is inevitable again. The sea line at night is a little cool and the moisture is very strong. It's a lonely night road again. After returning to the sea line, my car speed remained at around 25 kilometers, which was the fastest section on the road around the island. After a crazy ride, I finally turned into Hualien city. I just want to have a bowl of sweet mango ice as hot as a dog!
Today, I rode 113 kilometers, crossed the two mountains, Lanshan and Niushan, and it was also the longest day of riding on the entire ring road. Your energy is beyond your imagination.
Day 11 Hualien-Fulong 187 kilometers [total mileage 835 kilometers]
I am confused about whether to take the Suhua Highway.
This road between Suao and Hualien in Yilan is so famous. It was completely dug out from a mountain facing the Pacific Ocean, which has created its "clear water cliff" and the most beautiful scenery in Taiwan (one of them). Of course, it is also a cannibal road. From the Japanese building of the Suhua Highway, to the mainland station wagon falling off a cliff, countless people fell on the Suhua Highway. Beauty always coexists with danger, and this principle must be understood.
Generally speaking, local Taiwanese riders do not take the Suhua Highway, and they think it is too dangerous and there is no need to take risks. After arriving in Hualien by default, take the train to Yilan and then continue cycling. However, mainland riders all take the Suhua Highway, and may not realize the danger of the Suhua Highway and have relatively weak safety awareness.After returning from the Ziqiang Night Market, I finally decided not to take the Suhua Highway: Safety is the first step to do what you can, and riding a bicycle to appreciate the scenery of this road is not necessary for me.
I ate breakfast slowly, and I leisurely rode my bike to Hualien Railway Station. This feeling has been a long time ago. I bought a train ticket to Yilan and got on the train with people and buses. Taiwan’s bicycle friendly is that bicycles can get on trains, which is a great blessing. Sure enough, I saw some riders who were about to jump over the Suhua Highway on the platform.
There is only one mountain between Yilan and Hualien, but the prosperity is much higher than that of Hualien. It feels directly depends on the convenience of transportation between the two places and Taipei. When I arrived in Yilan, I could continue to be leisurely and fill my stomach first. It's just to get off the road later. Since I took the train in the morning, I have been a little lazy. After all, the train can reach the colorful world of Taipei in a blink of an eye. It will take me one or two days to ride my bike!
Continue walking in parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and there are a lot more tourists and vehicles on the road, and no longer feel lonely. At least it won’t be that there is no village or shop behind it. When we arrived at Sandiaojiao, there was a strong wind raging along the way. However, it is sunny and cloudy. The light of Jesus flashes on the sea. It feels much better than yesterday when the dark clouds are initiating. Sandiaojiao is the one protruding to the east on the Taiwan map, and it is the easternmost part of Taiwan’s main island.
It didn't put too much pressure on me and rushed to Keelung. Lan came to Fulong, the destination of Dajian's hotel tonight. I randomly found a homestay. This kind of passing small countryside felt that there was nothing to do after dinner, so I could only go to bed early!
Day 12 Fulong-Taipei 65 kilometers [Total mileage 1087 kilometers]
It is obvious that today is a good day. What I am about to witness is my completion of Taiwan’s bicycle roundabout.
First destination: Keelung! As a Xiamen native, it is necessary to sing "The Wave of Gulangyu Island" since childhood. There is a line in it that is "Beautiful Keelung Port". Therefore, a Xiamen person’s understanding of Taiwan may be Keelung in addition to Taipei. When Fulong came out, I saw a street sign with the words "Taipei", proving that the dream that is about to be realized is already written on the road.
This landform between Forlon and Keelung is like a sea karst, with winding mountains extending into the Pacific Ocean. Encountering events on the way! It seems to be a cycling tour of Taipei or something. It seems to be very formal and has the attitude of the Tour de France. They are all top-level road cars, and everything is available. Although I am not as fast as a road bike, I am also a bicycle after all! I also enjoyed the care of road closures and traffic diversion. Following the road car convoy, I actually rode slowly. After a long downhill, I saw the fishing boat in the sheltered dock that looked exactly the same as the Fujian fishing boat. I looked up again and realized that I had actually arrived in Keelung City.
The last journey was on a huge viaduct, where you can see the city of Taipei from afar, as well as the green mountains and gurgling rivers in the suburbs. Thinking that my journey around the island was going to be completed like this, I didn’t have any excitement or a state of mind to appreciate the beautiful scenery. My only thought at that time was how long it would take to ride to the city. I was almost dead.
A big downhill, seeing the number of campaign advertisements on the roadside, I know that the city of Taipei has arrived. These campaign ads are really the best sign of intensive human activities. Sometimes you can occasionally see it in the wilderness, which makes people wonder that Taiwanese people have nothing else to do except running for elections.
The last place to return the car is Giant flagship store next to the dome. The
journey is over. "Some things that I don't do when I was young will really never do."