" Menghualu " will usher in the finale this weekend.
This "Tokyo Women's Picture Book" of the three sisters in Qiantang has been broadcast at E Niang's House in June, Douban has maintained a rating of 8.5 points. Liu Yifei , Liu Yan , Lin Yun all ushered in a wonderful harvest of their respective roles.
"Menghualu" plot is adapted from Guan Hanqing Yuan's miscellaneous song "Zhao Panerai Fengyue Saves the Wind and Dust", and the title of the play is from Northern Song Writer Meng Yuanlao notes-style prose telling anecdotes of life at that time " Tokyo Menghualu ". It tells the story of the boss of a small tea shop in Qiantang, Zhao Paner (played by Liu Yifei) and decided to go to Beijing to seek justice because he was abandoned by his fiancé in Tanhua's high school. On the way, he saved Song Yinzhang, a good sister who was cheated and suffered domestic violence, and also saved Sun Sanniang, who committed suicide due to misfortune due to his misfortune, and (played by Liu Yan) . After experiencing all kinds of hardships, the story of the three sisters operating a small teahouse into the largest restaurant in Bianjing, "Yong'an Building".
So although this drama makes everyone forget it, it is actually about the inspirational drama of the three heroines realizing their self-worth in Tokyo Bianliang.
The time background of this drama took place in the Northern Song Dynasty. Not only is the characters beautiful, but the whole drama can also show the play's intention in terms of costumes, composition, color, etc., and many details are as close to the characteristics of the aesthetics of the Song Dynasty as possible. In the new plot recently, there is also a gorgeous scene of the Yong'an Building Flower Moon Banquet. The spectators enjoyed singing, dancing, and music while tasting crab oranges. People in the Song Dynasty also had cosplays. We yearn for the elegance of the Song Dynasty, and the Song Dynasty yearn for the unrestrainedness of the Tang Dynasty.
Song Yinzhang, played by Lin Yun, led the Jiaofang sisters to cosplay the famous paintings "The Practice Picture" and " Lady's Picture of a Hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-hair-
Due to the development of economy and technology in the Song Dynasty, architecture, porcelain, clothing, makeup and other aspects reached new heights. Chen Yinke Mr. Chen Yinke once said, "The culture of the Chinese nation has evolved for thousands of years, and has become the most powerful thing in Zhao Song ."
Today I want to use "Dream Hualu" to share with you the " New Chinese aesthetic that has been popular in recent years.
charming Song Dynasty aesthetic
different from The elegant and luxurious of the Tang Dynasty , The costumes of women during the Song Dynasty were mainly cold and elegant. During the Spring Festival, the popular dance drama " This Green HTML " has won many praises from netizens because of its elegant and blue color matching.
also made the " Thousand Miles of the River and Mountains" by Wang Ximeng traveled through thousands of years and became a popular symbol that is now more popular.
Stone green , Stone green , ochre yellow, cinnabar, frost green, gambola, Rouge ... These are very romantic colors that are still bright after thousands of years. In "Menghualu", the drama also extracts low-saturation colors such as pink and white glaze from these classic colors of the Song Dynasty, making the characters in the play look elegant and beautiful, and have a sense of elegance.
Accessories are also very exquisite, hairpin , dragonfly, very classical beauty.
This new Chinese aesthetic from the Song Dynasty is also a design language that has been highly praised in the fashion circle recently. However, the use method remains to be discussed. For example, at the just-concluded Milan Men's Clothing Week, the Chinese men's clothing brand Jiu Muwang directly printed "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains" on the men's suit.
The current creative director and French designer Louis-Gabriel NOUCHI's approach to printing paintings on sports fashions is really a bit rough in the understanding of "Chinese style". Next, we want to talk about which fashions are considered qualified "new Chinese style".
integrates Chinese aesthetics into the present creating a pragmatic "new Chinese"
Chinese aesthetics, not only the use of colors and patterns, but more in fabrics, cutting, craftsmanship and contours. Let’s take a look at the following new Chinese styles creatively created by designers to find new trends in contemporary China.
SHIATZY CHEN craftsmanship to create the oriental ancient rhyme
Although the colors of the Song Dynasty clothing are simple and elegant, and the colors are single, the craftsmanship is not simple. During the Song Dynasty, China's textile technology ushered in a leap, and it could weave more complex and exquisite clothes, and even embellish the clothes with extremely thin gold threads.
Xiazi Chen's antique clothing series, whether in terms of style, craftsmanship, details, they all interpret the aesthetic meaning of the Song Dynasty's dress.
022 In the early spring series, Xia Zi Chen added the most representative modern straight outline of the West in the 1920s to the image of the comfortable and gorgeous oriental. The sea of wisteria flowers is reproduced on the clothes through exquisite embroidery techniques.
The overall color ranges from warm and refreshing orange, tender green, light pink to the timeless black and white interwoven with green yarn, which is quite consistent with the tone aesthetics of the Central and Northern Song Dynasty in "Menghualu".
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang New look of traditional clothing
Make traditional clothing contemporary look, which can be implemented in various ways such as details, fabrics, tailoring, etc., such as Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang. In 2021, the old Tang Dynasty dress of Hong Kong, Shanghai Tang, invited Korean designer Yuni Ahn from the Old Céline team as a guest designer to launch an independent fashion line.
Yuni Ahn's design is deeply influenced by Phoebe Philo, former creative director of Céline. In the contemporary women's style of Old Céline, Chinese charm is incorporated into the new Shanghai Tang. For example, in her first collection for Shanghai Tang, she retained the iconic tilt of the cheongsam, which skillfully incorporates shirts, shirts, coats and dresses with modern tailoring.
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang 2021 Early Autumn Series
Yuni Ahn also turned the pattern of the lattice window into a printing effect similar to monogram, and used it on windbreakers and handbags worn on both sides. The bottom of the handbag she designed creates a relief half-moon shape, while the bamboo turns into a buckle and an internal stamp. These two represent natural elements of Eastern philosophical thought, presenting the meaning of hiding sharpness and tenacity of will.
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang 2021 early autumn series
graceful traditional jacquard fabric and boudoir style shirt transformed into a fashionable windbreaker.
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang 2021 Early Autumn Series
Yuni Ahn's second series continues the intentions of cheongsams, lattice window patterns, etc., and upgrades the Chinese-style palette. The elegant and light blue color is like a misty and sleepy morning; the calm brown is rooted in the earth; the red represents the moving moments of sunrise and sunset; and the pure white moon.These traditional colors bring together the philosophical significance of Chinese culture and add warm and calm colors to seasonal narratives.
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang 2021 autumn and winter series
Yuni Ahn also found Cui Sula to shoot a blockbuster for this series.
She designed the bellyband that once served as a female underwear to become a new style that can be worn outside and stacked. Just like her method of dealing with cheongsam slanting collars in the first season.
Yuni Ahn for Shanghai Tang 2021 autumn and winter series
SAMUEL GUÌ YANG Hong Kong Style Times
Another perfect contemporary designer who uses elements such as double plaids and buckles is Yang Guidong.
model wearing SAMUEL GUÌ YANG Chinese suit appeared on the inner page of TheWOW magazine
Yang Guidong's fame in the fashion circle is somewhat related to his nomination for the 2020 LVMH Youth Designer Award semi-finals. Although he failed to reach the finals as he wished, more people met this new design rookie who graduated from Saint Martin and his personal brand SAMUEL GUÌ YANG. His design has a unique aesthetic that is intertwined with multicultural cultures, implicit oriental charm and pragmatic Western tailoring, plus the designer's preferred nostalgic tones... SAMUEL GUÌ YANG's fashion blockbusters always remind people of the Golden Harbor era in the 1990s.
022 spring and summer series is themed "The Future Body" and uses a large number of Chinese elements: silk jacquard fabric, Chinese buckles, Yi handicraft hooks, traditional knot rope hangings... Starting from lifestyle and dress scenes, we continue to develop and explore contemporary fashion that integrates the characteristics of Chinese and Western clothing.
Ms Min Contemporary Chinese tailoring beauty
In the interview on Ms MIN's tenth anniversary, designer Liu Min mentioned his expectations for the brand's new decade: not following the fashion season, good design should follow the solar terms and people's rules.
She brought her unbiased, arrogant and impatient Confucian philosophy thoughts into the design. The style is more streamlined, focusing on changing creativity in fabrics and details. The seemingly "unchanged" fashions and different seasons of fashion match each other, but they can present a unique MIN aesthetic (in foreign brands, Lemaire and The Row are similar concepts of seasonal fashion) .
Ms Min 2022 Spring and Summer Series
Ms Min also launched the men's clothing line Xian Sheng in 2020. This name is very interesting and conveys the brand's philosophy. Unlike the concept of "gentleman" in Western society, "Mr." conveys a wider meaning in Chinese and has the connotation of "respecting as a teacher". Women who used to have a certain social status can also be respected as "Mr.". What the brand wants to create is a gentleman, a gentleman who runs across the world, is knowledgeable and has a sense of proportion. Therefore, the series of designs are integrated into Chinese and Western styles and transcends schools.
UMA WANG New look of traditional tea dye
Chinese aesthetics is also reflected in colors, not only the tones of sky blue and blue and white porcelain , but also the natural tones presented by plant dyeing. The best among them is Uma Wang. Many people know Uma Wang because of the ancient style she created for Zhouyun in the movie " Evil Do Not Suppress the Righteous ".Those elegant and detailed inverted sleeves perfectly match the character identity of " level Qiaohong ".
Wang Yu’s inspiration wall for Zhou Yun’s look
In fact, designer Wang Yu does not often use oriental symbols in her designs, she cares more about the "soul" in the costumes. UMA WANG's clothes are made of cotton and linen on the fabric, and are made of traditional methods such as tea dyeing and grass and wood dyeing. The color design is inspired by the rock color quality in nature, reflecting traditional Chinese craftsmanship.
Uma Wang 2022 Spring and Summer Series
At the same time, Wang Yu has been thinking about how to use Western manufacturing technology to create original Chinese designs. Oriental thinking has long been deeply rooted in the soul, such as Uma Wang’s clothing logo. The old yellowing effect is obtained by the design team soaking it in Chinese medicine or tea juice.
But it has to be said that these foreign brands are "seeking the form but not the soul" in Chinese design, and their main advantages lie in their practical wear and fashionable feeling. I wonder which "new national style" you prefer?
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