Safety tips: This article involves the modification of the charging interface and circuit of electronic products, which may cause safety hazards. The transformation process is for reference only.
Background
Many old devices in my house are Micro-USB charging ports. Even if I buy some electronic products now (such as charging desk lamp ), many devices are still away from the pace of the times and are still using Micro-USB charging ports. This makes me quite disgusted, but I can't buy them.
As an obsessive-compulsive disorder, I wish I could change all Micro-USBs to Type-C charging ports. After searching for a lot of information, I found that many people have tried it, but most of them are not ideal, not perfect and universal.
After more information searches, practices and improvements, I have summarized a relatively general and simple modification solution, which can change the Micro-USB charging port of most devices to Type-C interfaces. In this way, when buying electronic devices in the future, you will not be bothered because its charging port is too old.
I know that many people really want to update the old devices on their hands to Type-C charging ports, so I wrote this article to record the modification process in detail, hoping it will be helpful to readers.
needs to be explained in advance. This modification solution is only suitable for renovating the charging port, such as the charging port of " Bluetooth headset , audio, handle, wireless keyboard , wireless mouse , charging desk lamp, elderly mobile phone...", but it is not suitable for devices that need to transmit data (such as old Android phones).
This time, the modification is the QCY T1 Bluetooth headset I bought three years ago. Its charging port does not have the function of transmitting data, which is very suitable for modification.
Practice
Preparation tools:
- Multimeter
- Soldering iron , lead solder, Jinji brand flux, tin absorption wire, alcohol, paper towel
- AB glue (modified polyacrylate glue, good brothers)
- tip tweezers, small screwdriver, double-sided adhesive, manual knife
Preparation consumables:
- Type-C The mother seat (sinking plate type, 6Pin), Taobao is about 3 yuan, shipping cost 3 yuan
603 chip resistor 5.1KΩ, Pinduoduo 4 yuan 100 free shipping (0603 means 0.6 inches long and 0.3 inches wide, which is 1.6mm×0.8mm)- thin wire
First process the Type-C mother seat, take a Type-C sanding plate type 6Pin mother seat, and two 0603 specifications 5.1kΩ SMD resistor:
left female seat, right resistor
Before starting, you must first figure out the definition of the 6 pins of the female seat. There will be drawing descriptions in the shopping interface. Here I made a picture, which is easier to understand:
Type-C of 6Pin has six pins, two ground poles (GND), two positive poles (VBUS), and two CCs. The metal shell and ground poles are connected, and it cannot transfer data. The
CC pin is Type-C used to distinguish front and back sides and perform PD handshake. If the two CC pins are not connected to the 5.1kΩ resistor ( pull-down resistor ) to ground, the PD charger will refuse to supply power (the C to C charging cable cannot be used).
So in this modification, two chip resistors need to be manually soldered. Soldering patch resistors are a fine job and require practice to do it well. Practice for 2 hours is enough. Remember to use flux frequently, lead-containing soldering is better operated, and the soldering iron temperature is 330 to 350 degrees.
If it is too difficult to solder these two resistors, you can also omit the step of connecting the resistor. The ordinary A-to-C data cable can supply power normally.
Bend the two cc pins in the middle of the mother seat, and then break the two GND pins on the side. After that, wiring is convenient:
Ground the two cc pins through the chip resistor in turn:
In the above definition of pin , it is said that the metal shell and the GND pole are connected, so just use the resistor to connect the CC pin to the metal shell to complete the pull-down grounding.
Connect the c to c data cable of the PD charger, and use a multimeter to test the voltage between the positive electrode and the ground electrode:
The voltage is normal 5V, indicating that CC pull-down resistance welding is perfect
and then deal with the charging chamber. The charging compartment is snap-fixed, so you can pry it with a knife and expose the circuit board after it is disassembled. It is best to take a photo of circuit board to avoid forgetting to wiring in the end:
It is best to disconnect the battery in time and then perform subsequent operations to avoid accidental short circuits and damage the circuit.
I did not disconnect the battery here because I am skilled in operation and can ensure that there will be no short circuit. (
things are cheap, so I'm too lazy to break the battery and connect the battery again)
To change the charging port mother seat, you naturally have to remove the old mother seat. The best tool is the "wind gun", but because the wind gun is too big and not used, it takes up space in the box, so I'm too lazy to buy it, so I use the "pile tin method", which is to pile a large pile of solder on the old base, and use the melted solder to transfer heat from the soldering iron to the entire mother seat, and remove the mother seat.
Replace the K knife head with the soldering iron, and use double-sided tape to fix the headphone box shell on the desktop (it can be stable without vises ), apply flux to the old mother seat, pile tin, and remove Micro-USB mother seat:
K knife head pile tin to get Micro-USB mother seat
Use tin-sucking wire to clean excess tin:
Clean solder
Micro-USB mother seat has five pins, the rightmost and leftmost contacts are GND and VBus, that is, negative and positive electrodes. After careful observation, the GND contact is connected to the "copper clad layer" on the circuit board, and it is also connected to the solder joints of the metal shell of the fixed mother seat. The path detection of the multimeter can be easily determined.
connects the flying wire (thin wire) to the ground and positive electrode:
, we need to fix the Type-C mother seat to the original Micro-USB mother seat. Since the housing of the mother seat is metal, an insulation layer needs to be made between the mother seat and the pin below to avoid short circuits at the pin below. First use alcohol and tissue to clean the residual flux, then apply a layer of AB glue on the pin, wait for five minutes to cure, and then complete the insulation treatment (clean the flux with alcohol, to fix it more firmly after applying AB glue):
AB glue insulation treatment
Next step, apply a thick layer of AB glue on the insulating layer, fix the mother seat (cure for five minutes), cut the flying wire short, peel out the end copper wire:
Fix the mother seat, adjust the flying wire
Connect the positive fly wire to the positive pin, and the negative fly wire can be directly connected to the mother seat shell, and insert it into PD Data cable, test power-on:
connection, after testing
, it is time to install the shell, but the Type-C mother seat is larger than the Micro-USB mother seat, so you need to polish the charging port of the shell:
hand strength is not controlled well, and the ugliness of
Finally, replace it, test:
test successfully!
summary
For simple Micro-USB powered devices, you can use this method to change it to Type-C power supply, which will not have much impact on the appearance. If power supply to C to C wire is required, the 5.1kΩ resistor must be grounded on the two CC pin soldering. This practice also explains why some devices cannot be charged with PD chargers. In fact, the manufacturer forgot to design a pull-down resistor when drawing the circuit.
In this modification, I used AB glue "Brothers Good", which is an excellent insulation layer on the one hand, and on the other hand, it can firmly fix the mother seat on the circuit board like soldering. I don't worry about its strength at all, because it is too strong and aging is very slow enough to reach the end of the life of this electronic product.
⚠ Special reminder: Never use hot melt glue , 502 to fix this long-term plug-in and unplugged interface!
modification method can provide a maximum charging power of 5V 2A, and fast charging with higher power is required, and data function support is required. The disadvantage of this modification is that data cannot be transmitted.
In fact, there is a Type-C mother seat on Taobao that can transmit data. It looks like this:
Type-C mother seat with data transfer function
As you can see, this mother seat has a small circuit board behind it, with four contacts: "GND, Data+, Data-, VBus" at the back, and a pad of CC pull-down resistor on the back. But this type of mother seat is too large. If you want to modify the charging port of an old Android phone, this mother seat will obviously not be able to be plugged in.
If you insist on changing the Type-C mother seat for an old Android phone, there is a way. You can refer to these two tutorials. The author drew an ultra-small PCB adapter board for the Type-C mother seat to Micro-USB pin:
- hug Type C—Micro/Mini USB Almost perfectly modified Type C
- hug Type C, OPPO R9s change Type C
So far, with such a modification solution, I basically don’t have to worry about its charging port being too old when I buy electronic devices in the future.
During this modification recording process, another deep feeling was that the gap between artificial light and natural light was really big. In this record, when shooting the circuit board indoors, I had already used a desk lamp with a high color rendering index, but the difference in color and details is really big compared to the shooting between indoor and outdoors, and it is far from being made up for by color tuning.
