Gujing Roast GooseLv Rixin, the inheritor of production skills, and the roasted goose. Photographed by Wu Yingjian. In the list of the eighth batch of provincial intangible cultural heritage representative projects, Hakka cooking techniques, Chaozhou cooking techniques, boiled chicken cooking techniques, Cantonese cold fruit making techniques, and new A number of Cantonese dishes including the Hui Gujing roast goose making technique, Deqing bamboo polenta noodle making technique, Shaoguan Nanxiong salted duck , Dongguan Nanshe nine big gui, Foshan tie hoof making technique are listed as intangible cultural heritage. Yi, which one tantalizes your taste buds the most?
Cantonese style cured meat Production techniques
Only use hind leg meat and fat meat, pour it evenly and tie it tightly
"When the autumn wind blows, eat cured meat" This saying has been circulating for many years. Every time the golden breeze brings coolness, Every season, elders always mention this sentence.
The tradition of making and eating preserved meat in Lingnan has a history of more than 2,000 years. Because the climate here has been hot and humid since ancient times, meat is easy to spoil, so the ancestors made meat into preserved meat for storage. Among all kinds of cured foods, the most representative one is sausage. It is said that due to the busy cross-border trade, enema food was introduced to the Guangzhou region from Arabia and India via the Silk Road and the Maritime Ceramics Road. Cantonese people combined the enema method with local bacon-making skills, and thus the sausage with Cantonese characteristics appeared.
Sausage production often involves mixing fat and lean meat in a certain proportion, and then marinating it with wine, soy sauce, sugar and other seasonings. After the meat is put into the casing, it needs to be knotted and needle-pierced, and then dried for about 60 days. The sausage produced in this way has tight meat, moderate softness and hardness. After steaming, it has a fragrant wine aroma and a subtle sauce aroma. The production process of Cantonese-style cured meat is strict: only hind leg meat and fat meat are used as the pork ingredients, pure rose wine is used as the wine, and the grade specifications of "Sanqi Intestine" and "Erba Intestine" are strictly controlled. It is required to "fill it well (full), pour it evenly, and tie it tightly."
When it comes to how to eat Cantonese-style cured meat, it depends on the opinion: it can be steamed or stir-fried with vegetables. It can also be used as a meat filling for buns and moon cakes. It can be used in glutinous rice, cured rice, , Big chicken is the most common among the three flavors. It can be said that "it can reach the most elegant people, but it can reach the ordinary people".
Xinhui Gujing Roast Goose
Select the black-maned goose that is about 50 days old and roast it with lychee wood for more than one year.
There are more than 20 roast goose restaurants in Tianchengwei, Gujing Town, Xinhui District, Jiangmen City, and the aroma of roasted goose can be smelled everywhere on the street. The entire process of Gujing Roast Goose from selecting the goose, preparing the sauce to cooking is very particular. Generally, black-maned geese are chosen that are about 50 days old, weigh about 7 pounds, and have neither old nor tender meat. The black-maned goose has a mane-like dark brown feather band from the top of its head along the nape of its neck to its body. It has "three blacks" (black beak, hair, and feet), "three thins" (thin head, neck, and bones), and "one short" (Short feet) characteristics.
The preparation of sauce is the soul of Gujing Roast Goose. Every roast goose restaurant has its own unique secret recipe. After the goose is slaughtered, a sauce containing cinnamon, star anise and other spice powders and soy sauce is put into the goose belly. Then, blow hard to make the goose puff up. After tying, put the goose into the skin water mixed with red Zhejiang vinegar and maltose . The potted goose undergoes scalding and freezing before being fired.
Gujing roast goose is baked with lychee wood. The lychee wood that is at least one year old produces less smoke and a strong fire. The roasted goose is golden and bright in color. The rich aroma penetrates into the skin, meat, muscles and bones of the roasted goose. The skin tastes crispy and the meat is tender. When dipped in the goose juice, it tastes fresh and sweet. fragrant.
There is also a folk legend about Gujing Roast Goose. At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, after the naval battle of Yamen in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, a palace cook fled to the west bank of Yinzhou Lake and opened a roast goose shop. Later, his daughter married to an ancient well on the east bank of Yinzhou Lake, and the roast goose craft continued for generations. Passed down from generation to generation, it has a history of more than 700 years.
Since the 21st century, Gujing Roast Goose has ushered in rapid development. In 2009, "Gujing Roast Goose" was included in the list of Jiangmen Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage.With the strong support of the local government, Gujing Roast Goose has grown from a local delicacy and folk handmade craftsmanship to an important industry driving local economic development. Large rice fields, well-preserved ancient houses, roasted goose exuding the scent of lychee... The beautiful Lingnan rural scenery and traditional food culture meet here.
Traveling through 700 years of history from the Southern Song Dynasty to today, Gujing is a small town that you don’t want to leave.
Shaoguan Nanxiong Salted Duck
Coated with rice wine before drying Rice wine Adds flavor to the skin, thin meat, tender bones, crispy and chewable
Nanxiong Salted Duck The production technique is a kind of Nanxiong Shelduck as the main raw material, which is marinated and dried. Nanxiong Hakka food is an intangible cultural heritage food with "National Geographical Indication". The production of Nanxiong salted duck is purely a traditional process, which requires slaughtering, dehydration, dissection, pickling, shaping, exposure and inspection. Each process has strict standards. After pickling, Nanxiong salted duck is dried and dehydrated by natural air-drying and open-air drying. Compared with cured duck made by artificial heating and baking process, it has the characteristics of fresh and tender meat and strong cured flavor. In addition, the Nanxiong salted duck is coated with a layer of locally brewed rice wine before drying to increase the aroma.
Nanxiong salted duck production technique has a long history, and "whitened duck" is also known as "cured duck" or "marinated duck" in the local area. There is a popular saying among the local people in Nanxiong that "when the north wind blows, the scent of waxed ducks is fragrant". Every winter, local villagers in Nanxiong process their own woolly ducks, pickle them with coarse salt, and dry them naturally in the sun. , the folk call it "exposure pickling" is the origin of its common name.
Due to the geographical environment of Nanxiong in the mountainous area of northern Guangdong, there are many local ponds, which is very suitable for raising ducks. The ducks raised here have thin skin and thick meat, and are moderately fat and thin, so they are very suitable for making salted duck. And because Nanxiong is located in the northeastern part of Guangdong Province and has a subtropical monsoon climate, with large temperature differences between day and night and frost and other factors, it is very suitable for the production of Nanxiong salted duck, giving "Nanxiong salted duck" a special flavor.
Nanxiong salted duck has a history of thousands of years. According to the "Nanxiong Prefecture Chronicle" of the Qing Dynasty, "Dragon duck is tender, fat and crispy. It is dipped in camellia oil. It becomes bright red over time and is delicious. It is very expensive in Guangcheng." "Nanxiong salted duck has the characteristics of beautiful appearance, white and translucent yellow skin, plump oil tail, thin skin and tender meat, red meat and fresh taste, crisp and chewable bones, unique flavor and high quality. It is a delicacy that people give as gifts to relatives and friends.
Nine Gui of Dongguan Nanshe
"Two fishes, two meats, two-headed animals" means nine sons succeeding in the imperial examination and longevity.
Nine Gui of Nanshe are popular in Nanshe Village, Chashan Town, Dongguan City, Guangdong Province. "Gui" was originally a round vessel used to hold millet during ancient sacrifices. What the Cantonese people call "Gui" is a "big bowl" that can hold five or six kilograms of rice. "九大簋" generally means that the nine sons have passed the exam and will last forever. The Nine Dagui has a history of nearly 800 years since Nanshe Village was established. Despite the changes of the times, Nanshe Village still retains the traditional etiquette and customs of the Nanshe Nine Gui banquets. The villagers still use old pots and old stoves, still use the traditional method of firewood cooking, and still use the Nanshe Nine Gui to express traditional etiquette and customs. .
In the past, due to limited family conditions, villagers had insufficient chicken, duck, fish and meat dishes. In addition, the Gui was deep, so the villagers ate vegetarian dishes at the bottom, in order to fill the Gui with Chinese dishes and get "full bowls" of goodwill. By the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, villagers began to use "Bo" as a vessel for serving delicacies, thus replacing "Gui" and it has been used until modern times.
Nanshe's nine major Gui banquets are divided into six series: New Year's fasting banquet, family banquet, wedding, daughter-in-law, birthday and childbirth, and are rich in content. Among them, the most representative ones are the Nine Gui Gui. On the first day of the first lunar month of the following year, every family that has a new baby must "turn on the lights" to enter the family tree. On the 15th day of the first lunar month, all the "lampheads" contribute money and invite the elderly in the village over 60 years old to enjoy the nine big Gui for free, in order to pray that the children will live as long as the elderly.
Nanshe Nine Dagui has a total of nine dishes. The seasonal vegetables vary according to different types of wedding banquets and different seasons, but there must be "two fish, two meats, and two animals", that is, two each of fish, meat, and poultry, and The name of each dish means beauty and auspiciousness.These nine dishes are usually meat on top, supplemented by vegetarian dishes on the bottom, and are placed in the middle of the Eight Immortals table in a "three horizontally and three vertically" pattern.
Before the banquet begins, the host places eight sets of bowls, chopsticks and spoons on the Eight Immortals table, two sets on each side of the table. Four bowls of fine wine and four plates of soy sauce are placed in the four corners. Two adjacent banquet drinkers share a bowl of wine and share it. A plate of soy sauce creates a warm and harmonious atmosphere. In the past, when wealthy families entertained guests, they would use a spoon to pour the wine in the bowl onto the ground to "respect the heaven, the earth, and the people." With the changes of the times, people changed this habit to dividing the wine in the shared wine bowl into their own rice bowls.
Foshan Tied Hoof Production Techniques
More than 30 processes in different sizes, it is known as the "King of Braised Meat"
Dexinzhai was founded during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty (1736-1795). It was originally called Heji Pork Shop and was located on the banks of the Fenjiang River in Foshan City. Business is booming near Zhengbu Pier. The owner, Yu Haozhong, skillfully transforms pig scraps into braised pig's trotters with unique characteristics and flavor to supply to the market.
De Xin Zhai's fermented pig's trotters has been famous for nearly 300 years since the Ming and Qing Dynasties. ’s Dexinzhai Braised Pork Trotters ’s production techniques are unique in terms of material selection, brewing, seasoning and heating. The production process is sophisticated and complex, with more than 30 large and small processes. Due to its unique flavor, exquisite craftsmanship and beautiful appearance, it is known as the "King of Braised Meat". It is not only favored by people in Foshan, but also famous in the province, Hong Kong, Macao and Southeast Asian countries. It is also a Foshan specialty that foreign tourists order to taste and give as gifts to relatives and friends. food.
Dexinzhai has formed a series of roasted, stewed and waxed food through years of continuous development and innovation.
Chaozhou cuisine cooking techniques
There are more than ten cooking methods. "No feast is complete without seafood"
Chaozhou cuisine, also known as Chaozhou cuisine and Chaoshan cuisine, is a major cuisine well-known at home and abroad and an important representative of Cantonese cuisine, the four major cuisines in China. When Han Yu was demoted to Chaozhou, he wrote a poem "Eighteen Association Rules of Chu Nan Shi Yi Yuan". The poem lists more than ten kinds of seafood ingredients, as well as lines such as "I am here to ward off evil spirits, and I can taste southern cooking"; "There are dozens of other kinds, everyone can be amazed" and other lines. Here, the "monster" in Han Yu's poem roughly refers to crocodiles, wild beasts and the like. It can be seen that the living environment of the Chaoshan area was extremely harsh at that time.
Nowadays, Chaoshan people still eat " raw fish" and "raw shrimp". This may be a trace of the original diet of the ancient Chaoshan people that has been preserved to this day. For this reason, some scholars believe that Chaozhou cuisine originated from the Tang Dynasty. If we count from Han Yu's poems, Chaozhou cuisine has been passed down for more than a thousand years.
Chaoshan area is rich in seafood, and seafood dishes account for a large proportion of Chaozhou cuisine. It can be said that "no feast is complete without seafood." "Chaozhou Recipes" compiled by Zhu Biaochu, a famous modern Chaozhou cuisine master, collects a total of 133 traditional Chaozhou dishes, of which 42 are seafood dishes, excluding freshwater fish, which account for 32% in total.
There are more than ten common cooking methods in Chaozhou cuisine, and most of them are used by Chaozhou cuisine chefs to cook seafood dishes, such as deep-frying, cooking, stir-frying, frying, soaking, blanching, stir-frying, stewing, etc.
