冕服 is the name of a kind of senior dress in ancient China, which generally refers to dress worn by the emperor in various important ceremonies and occasions. It is said that Mianfu began to develop in the Shang Dynasty and before, and it was officially formed by 周代. Since then, the King of God has to wear a diadem to show formality and dignity on all grand occasions.
1. Ancient Mianfu-shaped system
The word "Mianfu" was first seen in "礼记", in "Book of Rites·Miscellaneous" Among them are: "Fu, the princes shall wear praises; Mianfu, jue will be promoted." Before this, the name of the emperor's dress was not uniform enough, and this dress has a formal name.
1. The shape of Mianfu-Mianguan
As the name implies, the crown is composed of two parts. is part of the crown and part of the service . Mian is a diadem, but the costume is composed of many different garments, including crown, mysterious clothes, practicing clothes, big belt of white Luo, yellow blind knee, plain cloth and so on. The upper body is called "Yi" and the lower body is called "Shang". In addition to these basic elements, there are many decorations on the dress. For example, colorful ribbons, jade hooks, jade pendants, etc. Of course, on some occasions, a long sword must be worn at the waist, which is the most etiquette.
Mianguan includes 綖 (yán), 旒 (liú), hat Juan, Yuheng, jade hairpin, Wuguan, Zhu Ying, Zhu Hong (hóng), filling ears and other components. Qi is the longest edge of the crown. It is two beads curtain hanging before and after the 綖. According to the different specifications of Mianfu, it is divided into twelve strings in front and back, twelve in each string, nine strings with nine and seven strings with seven specifications. The hosta Yuheng is the decoration on the side of the crown, and the hosta passes through the crown to the other end. Zhu Ying is a red rope used to fix the crown on the user's head. The ears are the ornaments hanging on the side of the crown and hanging near the ears of the emperor. There is also the implied meaning of warning the emperor to listen to the truth and not be deceived by the ministers.
2. The shape of the Mianfu-clothing
generally includes the Tianhe belt, clothes, the right gusset, the collar (méi) ), large belt, leather belt, knee-covering, etc. Different dynasties have different regulations, but there is no difference in major aspects. The Tianhe Belt traverses the Qi. The top clothes are called clothes, and the bottom clothes are called clothes . On the other hand, the right collar refers to the collar on the right covering the collar on the left, and the left collar is used to refer to the barbarians and the dead. The ancient Chinese orthodox dresses are all "交领右衽".
2. Different levels of Mianfu show
Zhou Dynasty was the dynasty of Mianfu stereotypes. In Zhou Dynasty, there were six sets of Mianfu. The specifications of these six suits are different, and the requirements for the occasion are also different. . And the level of Mianfu is determined by the number of and the number of chapters . At the same time, in addition to the various components mentioned above, the Mianfu also needs to embroider various patterns on the Mianfu. These patterns represent different things and have different meanings. These patterns are called "chapters", and the act of embroidering "chapters" is called "articles".
has the highest specifications and the most grand. 's mian suit is called "Da Qiu Mian", which is used by the emperor to worship "Vast Sky Emperor", which is what we often call the mian suit worn when offering sacrifices to the sky. The crown adopts 12 旒制 and is dressed in big fur. At the same time, the mian suits are all Xuanyi clothes, that is, the upper body is black top and the lower body is red. The big fur crown is embroidered with six patterns of sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and Chinese insects (a kind of five-color insects in ancient books), and the lower skirt is embroidered with algae, fire, rice flour (ie rice), Zongyi (A wine vessel used for sacrificial worship), black (black and blue patterns), black (axe-shaped pattern) six chapters, a total of twelve chapters, so it is also called the twelve chapter clothing. Da Qiumian is exclusively for the emperor, and the princes shall not be rewarded with the twelve-chapter suit, nor may they use the twelve-chapter suit. Although the Mianfu of the descendants is different from that of the Zhou Dynasty, it is still similar to the Daqiu Mianfu in the highest specification.
Others include Gun Mian , Gun Mian is also called "天子吉服". Dagon Mian is matched with the Nine-Eyes Mian Crown, and is also a Xuan Yi suit. In the article, the coat is painted with five chapters of dragon, mountain, Chinese insect, fire, and Zongyi, and the lower clothes are painted with four chapters of algae, rice noodles, black, and black, a total of nine chapters. According to convention, Gunmian can also be called 九章服. In addition, 恐怖冕 is the emperor sacrificed to the first public and hunted . This kind of diadem is equipped with seven diadem crowns, and the coat is painted with Chinese insects, fire, zongyi, and lower dress embroidery. There are seven chapters of algae, rice flour, millet and millet.
毳冕 is used by the emperor 巡游山川. There are three patterns on the crown of the crown, the five chapters of Yihuizongyi, the algae, and the powdered rice. The clothes have two chapters, a total of five chapters. 絺冕 is worn by the emperor when offering sacrifices to the ancestors and the god of the grassland . The crown is four dazzling, the clothes are embroidered with a vermicelli chapter pattern, and the clothes are embroidered with a red and black pattern. The simplest mian dress, also called Xuanmian, is equipped with a three-pronged diadem and a daily black dress. The coat has no pattern on the coat, and the dress embroidered with a pattern on the front.
Third, the development of Mianfu dynasties
1. Mianfu in the Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period
Since 周平王东移, the Zhou Dynasty royal family declined and its status greatly declined. The ruled area is also reduced. The Zhou royal family was financially tight and needed the assistance of the princes. Therefore, Zhou's Mianfu during the Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period only retained the main part of Mianfu , and the rest of the jade pendant, golden hook and other items that could be removed were removed. In addition, no other major changes have occurred.
2. Han Dynasty Mianfu
The composition of the above-mentioned crown, there are two pearls that are not stuffed into the ears, but are called "filling ears", which are improved by the Han Dynasty. Here, there is no such component in the Zhou Dynasty's Mianfu. The later idiom "满耳不闻" comes from here. At the same time, the Han Dynasty also stipulated that only the emperor's mianfu can use the twelve-feeling crown. In this regard, the regulations of the Han Dynasty and the Zhou Dynasty are the same. At the same time, the Han Dynasty also stipulated that wearing a mianguan could not be worn, but wearing mianguan must wear a mianguan. Therefore, in the order of the emperor's dressing, the crown is always worn first or goes first.
3. Cao Wei Mianfu
The Mianfu in the Cao Wei period followed the Han Dynasty and did not make any major changes. If you must find a change, it is probably to change the#05588 on the crown from five-color jade beads to coral beads .
4. Dongjin Mianfu
The people in power in the Eastern Jin Dynasty probably also felt that there was nothing to change the Mianfu, but according to practice, it had to be changed to show that it was different from the previous ones, so Studying Cao Wei also changed the beads on the scorpion, and added some 翡翠、白璇 to go up......
5. Sui Dynasty Mianfu
Sui Shi national Unification, Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty, Yang Jian paid attention to the development of the country in the early stage of his administration, and did not have much interest in these courtesy systems, so he basically followed the rules of the previous generation. Later, Emperor Yang Guang of the Sui Dynasty succeeded to the throne, Yangguang好大喜功, restored the Huazhang system of Mianfu and improved it. It turned out that during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the predecessors moved the sun, moon, and star patterns from the crown to the flag. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty placed the Sun and Moon chapters on the shoulders of Mianfu and covered the stars on his back. Since then, the emperor's dress form of " shoulders the sun and the moon, bears the stars " has been settled, and it is often used by subsequent emperors.
6. Song Dynasty Mianfu
The Song Dynasty has a high degree of economic development and has a solid economic foundation. The emperor's dress form is also richer than before. The types of Mianfu in the Song Dynasty include Qiu Mian, Xie Mian and TongtianCrown dress, shoe gown, shirt gown and imperial reading dress, etc. Mianguan in the Song Dynasty has a major change in form compared to before. There is a kind of "通天冠" in the crown of the Song Dynasty, which is also called Cirrus Cloud Crown. is crowned with rolled beam twenty-four road , one foot high and one foot wide. When wearing the crown of heaven, the body of the crown and the bun need to be fixed together with a hosta. The Tongtian crown needs to wear a crimson gauze gown with red lining. The gauze skirt worn on the lower body and the knee-covering also need to be purple.
Here we need to point out that gauze skirts were not only worn by women in the Song Dynasty, they were also part of men's wear. The ornaments include a Bai Luo square heart curvy collar, a large belt of gold and jade around the waist, white socks and black shoes on the feet, and a jade pendant with gold hooks on the side. In addition to the emperor, the prince of the East Palace also wears this costume when he is the prince in the grand ceremony. is used to distinguish the crown prince from wearing a full-day crown with twenty-four beams and using a distant travel crown with eighteen beams .
7.梁代冕服
The ruler of the beam feels that the chaotic color bead decorations are too messy. Although the colors of jade and coral beads are different, the same material is used in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. It's all different. Liang Ren felt that it was too fancy, so adopted the scheme which uses white jade beads as the glamour. Since then, the shape and system of Qi have been unified again. In addition, Liang tied a vermilion ribbon on his belt, and gave it to the emperor with a sword.
8. Mianfu in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties
The Yuan Dynasty was a regime established by the Mongolian nationality. In order to maintain the rule of the Han people, the Mianfu of the Yuan Dynasty adopted the form of the early Song Dynasty. Some systems of the Jin Dynasty were brought into it. The Tianhe belt in Yuan Dynasty was extended to the ground, with pearl . The ornamentation of Mianfu still adopts twelve chapters as patterns, and the number has increased compared with the Jin Dynasty. 明代冕服、 The Ming Dynasty made a big change in the regulations of Mianfu. also made detailed regulations on the size of other twelve-chapter patterns . For example, the radius of the sun and moon patterns on the shoulders is set at five inches.
The ear-filled material becomes topaz, and the ancient multicolored jade becomes colorful jade. At the same time, some adjustments were made to the position of Chapter Twelve: the dragon pattern was enlarged on the chest, and later in the Qing Dynasty, the dragon was enlarged on the center of the chest. Changed the position of the 华虫, Zong Yi pattern to the sleeve. At the same time, Hua Chong and Zong Yi are not the only ones on the sleeves. Panlong is also embroidered with gold thread as a decoration.
9. Qing Dynasty
The reason why the word coronation service is not after the Qing Dynasty is because Qing Dynasty abolished the coronation service system . The Qing was a regime established by the Manchus, but the Qing did not adopt the Han Mianfu like Yuan did, but directly abolished Mianfu and adopted Manchu's own clothes. Therefore, for Qing, Mianfu is not necessary to talk about it.
Summary:
The Mianfu system is used to embody the noble and humble and the majesty of the emperor. Therefore, the rulers of the past dynasties have shown great importance to Mianfu. Mianfu embodies the lofty status and mission of the monarch "assigned to heaven". Although different dynasties have the same form of Mianfu, the Qing Dynasty directly abolished the Han Mianfu. But the thought of "天子为尊" embodied in Mianfu is something that has been passed down from generation to generation in ancient China.
References:
1.《管子学刊》
2.《文史杂志》
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