There is a saying in the old Tianqiao to hold the floor and perform the art: just talk about not practicing fake handles, just practice not stupid handles, and say and practice true handles. In a word, you have to yell for whatever you are doing, and you have to have a bit of a guy in your hand.
More than a hundred years ago, the business of selling sour plum soup was like this. Push a trolley, walk the streets and alleys, holding two small copper bowls in the jargon called "Bingzhan", jingle like this, "Hey! Sour plum soup, sweet-scented osmanthus flavor, Yuquanshan water comes, Deshengmen’s ice, I drank the ice in my mouth, and I gave it more. The soup was delicious!”
Yu Qian felt calm and cool. "
But why is it the ice of Deshengmen?
In the old-fashioned years, the iced sour plum soup in Beijing used the moat, and Shichahai natural ice preserved in winter. Deshengmen is on the side of the moat and has the most ice cellars. Two days ago, I rode a bicycle there to wander around, and I found an alley at the mouth of the ice cellar.
No way, people in the past did not have a refrigerator. If you want to freeze something in the summer, you can only use natural ice. This is called "storage in winter and summer", as early as the Shang and Zhou period more than 3,000 years ago. , There is already this method of hiding ice.
just has the same disadvantage, what? Sanitary conditions are not good enough and not clean.
Do you think, where is the moat and Shichahai? Mr. Liang Shiqiu said, "You can see turf, sawdust, and dirt and dirt in the ice cubes." The vendors selling sour plum soup are all small vendors. Once it is released, it is cool to cool, it is old diarrhea, waste toilet paper.
What should I do? Go to Xinyuanzhai.
Everyone knows that this sour plum soup is especially authentic in Beijing. In Beijing, Xinyuanzhai is especially authentic.
Others like Qiujia on Tianqiao, Yuzhai on Xidan Pailou Road, Yuyuanzhai on Dingjie in Dong’anmen, and Jiulongzhai at Qianmenwai are all younger generations.
Xinyuanzhai, opened in the fifth year of Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, and its owner was Xiao. Rumor has it that he turned out to be a hawker and set up a stall in Dashilan outside the front door. One day, one of his relatives who worked as an eunuch in the palace gave him a secret recipe from the palace. According to the recipe, osmanthus sour plum soup could be made. Boss Xiao did just that, and he was very popular among the people, and he was hailed as the "exotic treasure of the Qing palace" and "the imperial black plum soup."
Later,Boss Xiao set up two shops in the East Liuli Factory. The shop in front and the factory in the back started a serious business selling plum soup. He named it "Xin Yuan Zhai Ji."
It sounds awkward at first. Let’s "fast" for "fast". What's the matter with adding a "note"? It doesn't make sense.
Hey, what the boss of Ren Xiao wants is that it doesn't make sense.
Where is Xinyuan Zhai opened? Opened in Liulichang . Where is Liulichang? Xu Lingxiao explained in "Hundred Chapters of the Old Capital": "In the past, the elders of the Beijing dynasty, a distinguished guest, Yaliu, had leisure time, and often went to the Liuli Factory to visit the bookstore, shop for antiques, test versions, and spend the long days."
See you? Liulichang is the most famous cultural street in Beijing. Until now, when you go there for a stroll, the shops on the street sell ancient and modern books, wenwan calligraphy and paintings, written on the plaques, and they are all the houses, halls, and pavilions.
Boss Xiao just thought about it. If it is called "Xin Yuan Zhai", it is inconspicuous in this street! In business, how can you get some business? He thought of a crooked trick and added a word called "Xin Yuan Zhai Ji".
The people who wander around the Liulichang are all scholars who like to pick words. They sneak up here and look up, "Xin Yuan Zhai Ji", hiss-this sign, it doesn't make sense! No, I have to talk to the boss.
said and went in.Following one after another, there were more and more trouble finding, and the number of customers in the store also increased. Lu Xun, Lao She, Qi Baishi , Zhang Daqian, Mei Lanfang are all frequent visitors of Xinyuanzhai.
Although this store is not big, it is clean and simple. The glass doors and windows facing the street are spotlessly polished, and there is also a crescent halberd. Why do you want to insert the crescent halberd? It means that this pot of sour plum soup was made last night.
As soon as the customer entered the door, he was faced with an old-fashioned green-painted ice bucket with a layer of iron nailed in it and full of crushed natural ice inside. The sour plum soup is served in a large porcelain jar of blue and white with a white background. When I woke up the next day, the sour plum soup was already cold and calm, and there was no direct contact with the ice cubes. It was clean and delicious.
After living in Taipei for decades, Liang Shiqiu still misses Xinyuanzhai, saying, "There are more rock sugar, thick plum juice, and less water, so the taste is strong and strong. The mouth is cold, sweet and sour. Moderate, just like pure mash in your mouth, reluctant to swallow."
Yes, the only characteristic of the sour plum soup of Xinyuanzhai is that it is boiled thickly, and when it is boiled in a jar, it is never mixed with ice water. Whenever it is drunk, it is mellow and rich, and it is extremely iced. through.
I poured it into a small porcelain bowl, sprinkled a few sweet-scented osmanthus, drink a bowl, pour a bowl, and collect money for the bowl. Although the tongue is cold and the teeth are cold, it’s not uncommon to drink ten or eight bowls at once.not enough.
You think, on a dog days, at two or three o'clock in the afternoon, the big sun is roasting like hot oil in a pot, there is no shade on the top of the head, and sweat is flowing from my neck. At this time, I turned into Xinyuanzhai, opened the bamboo curtain, and had a firm bowl of sour plum soup. Cool Qi was icing down my throat and eyes to the stomach, the pores all over his body shrank so coldly, and the muscles were agitated. The air "hissing" in the air, it is really a chill of the bones, the tongue and the teeth are refreshing, and the cold is in the heart and the spleen.
In the words of Teacher Guo Degang, drinking sour plum soup here and shooting his father over there, it doesn't hurt!
editor: six Mistress
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