In order to better awaken the vitality of an old fashion house, challenges are necessary. Only by taking dangerous moves with chess can you find another way. So the old fashion house opened its doors to welcome the arrival of foreign tourists. Matthew M. Williams is the case with Givenchy. As someone who is reconciling contradictions, this season, he tries to reorganize French style with American style.
horizontally observes the changes in the past decade. The old fashion house has adapted to the transformation of traditional DNA by foreigners in their own manner. The transformation of the beautiful old fashion house has become one of the most eye-catching points in the current fashion circle. The label of "old fashion house" has gradually changed to "representative of avant-garde pioneers". The chain reaction of the "star effect" it has set off is unignorable.
Matthew M. Williams is one of the darlings of the chain reaction. His strength to create popular products and the resources of "star friends circle" have made him one of the "top stars" and won the favor of old fashion houses - so he made an ambitious appearance and wanted to show his strength as a modern American in old fashion houses. Taking the 2020 fashion house as the time point, with Williams' three-year contract expiration, less than nine months left, this long exam seems to be approaching the critical point. Wherever he goes, it will depend on whether his design can touch the hearts of the group who is eager to build a dialogue, and show his preferences in the financial report through fair and strict numbers.
Givenchy 2023 spring and summer women's clothing series, Williams revisits the archives of founder Hubert de Givenchy, and has not forgotten the pursuit of American diversity as Americans. With the help of stylist, senior editor and friend Carine Roitfeld, his Givenchy girls showed a sharp and fertile side. With the accompaniment of the bass cello, they swung their sexy and charming waists, and in the Paris Botanical Garden, they walked firmly towards everyone.
Givenchy 2023 Spring and Summer Women's Clothing Conference was selected at the Paris Botanical Garden
Putting aside the public's "filter" about an old fashion house - many times, there is always a group of people who are obsessed with "whether the current person is loyal to the founder's style", it seems that only by continuing the original appearance can it be regarded as "inheriting orthodoxy", and the rest are regarded as "reversal", so criticism and doubts flock to them. They often ignore an important background: the groups nurtured by the times are also constantly changing in synchronization and changing, and the present is different from the past, and the preferences of the current and past people have long been renewed.
Givenchy is a special old fashion house. Among its writers, there are designers with different digital styles such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Riccardo Tisci, etc. These helmsmen were the masters of that era, with high spirits, and fashion houses were also in their hands, from classical French elegance and fantasy, to the aggressive streets and restrained elitism, to the changes that combine "American and French" styles today... Through its history of change, you can detect the aesthetics and styles reflected by different generations.
Nowadays, Williams has become the "selected person" because of his precise control of the current trends - he knows how to call American popular styles to bring changes to conservative French styles. And, knowing how to strengthen the "celebrity effect" to create voice - as a celebrity stylist's past and a background with many celebrity friends, past experience has become his most powerful weapon. Today's fashion circle is ushering in the era of inviting rap singers, celebrity celebrities and artists as first-class guests, Williams has the potential to talk directly with this group of people.
Kanye West visited the backstage as a designer friend
Left: Kanye West Right: Matthew W. Williams
The successors of the fashion circle at that time were keen on covering past history with their signatures and using the so-called "vanguard trend" to overturn the traditional impression, Williams not only quoted Hubert de Givenchy's archives in this season, but also last season to express his respect and respect for the founder. In a sense, this move can't help but make us think: in his heart, whether the aesthetics of "old" and "new", the style of "France" (Paris) and "America" (New York), the combination of their current Givenchy What about the iconic style in his eyes?
In a recent interview with " New York Times ", Carine Roitfeld said: "The essence of American fashion is hoodies and large jeans." As a Frenchman, she likes to wear neatly, and also likes to wear tight dresses and black tops. She has thick black eyeliner, her hairstyle is uneven but not messy, and she looks energetic and fashionable, which is a French woman's style. In that interview - Givenchy's 2023 spring and summer series launch conference, she said that the show represented "the conflict between her French style and Williams' American style, just like fashionable skirts and comfortable sneakers."
Givenchy The 2023 Spring and Summer Women's Clothing Series
is back to the 2023 Spring and Summer Show style, as she said: those American workwear elements and military elements from men's wardrobe have become gifts to women through adjustments in the size of the clothing, as well as shabby denim suits. They are like the imprints of Americans and also like travel souvenirs brought by Williams. The staggered tweed fabrics, iconic little black skirts and black suits are a mirage-like yearning for French style by his foreigner.
Givenchy 2023 spring and summer women's clothing series
Fashion editor Lauren Eggertsen has interviewed several French girls and asked them about the difference between French style and American style. A girl named Chloé Harrouche commented that American style is "More is More" (more is More) and French style is "Less is More". Although the two are full of contradictions, they also reflect the charms presented by the two female groups in completely different cultural environments.
Williams is the one who is reconciling contradictions, reorganizing French styles with American styles and blending them appropriately, aiming to make these two groups of women of different styles form a new group of overlapping shadows. On the surface, and deep into it, the essence of its reflection may be the history of an American designer's struggle to integrate into the French fashion house.
Written by Xu Xiaomiao
Edited by LEANDRA