Compared with water and milk, facial cream has high nutrition, high moisturizing and other effects. It is very friendly to the skin for a long time. Especially if you want to repair and maintain the skin, the effect of using a cream will be more significant. Creams are also an indispensable skin care product in daily skin care.
This issue’s director will share with you these 5 creams, from the big brand Estee Lauder, Shiseido , Xiulike to affordable Fulifang Silk , Yuze , all of which are listed, from reputation to popular , and worth collecting!
1Estee Lauder Platinum Cream
Reference price: ¥2500
Capacity: 50ml
Unit price: ¥50.0/1ml
Version: Guozhuang.com Preparation for Numbers (Shanghai) 20200058 23
Ingredient analysis:
Main oil: avocado resin, synthetic oil, Silicone oil
Main active ingredients: Indian squid dentifri, various plant extracts, gold, B Acyl hexapeptide-8, Ergothionein , Caffeine , and other ingredients
colorant: pearl powder (although it is not a colorant, but its function is closer to a colorant), polymethylsilsesquioxane (not a colorant, but opaque agent, improves skin texture, helps hide fine lines and pores ) CI 19140 (lemon yellow), CI 17200 (red)
Preservative: 1,2-pentanediol, phenoxyethanol
daily chemical flavor
Overall evaluation:
Estee Lauder Platinum Series formula system is similar. For details, you can see the previous review of "Estee Lauder Platinum Grade Fragrance Essence Eye Cream".
is mainly anti-wrinkle. The acetyl hexapeptide-8 used is neuropeptide , which has an effect similar to " botulinum toxin ". By reducing muscle contraction, it can reduce the production of dynamic lines and expression lines . The transdermal absorption of this ingredient is a problem. The molecular weight
888.91 Dalton, if it exceeds 500, it cannot be directly absorbed through the epidermis, so the actual wrinkle removal effect remains to be verified.
active ingredients are superimposed, but there is a lack of strong main ingredients.
The uncertainty of the effect of active ingredients relative to the active ingredients, the combination of pearl powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane and two colorants can have an immediate effect of covering fine lines and pores. However, it is a bit unreasonable to remove wrinkles as a "lucky cream".
Suitable for skin types: Various skin types
Recommended index: Safety index (four stars) Effective index (three stars)
2html ml1 Shiseido Hoyo's new pure cream
Reference price: ¥670
Capacity: 50ml
Version: Guozhuang.com Preparation for characters (Shanghai) 2019004436
Ingredient analysis:
Main oils: synthetic oils, silicone oils, paired with a small amount of phytosterol macadamia oleate (less than 1%)
Moisturizing ingredients: glycerol , Butylene glycol , hydroxyproline, acetylated sodium hyaluronic acid, yeast fermentation lysate filtrate (moisturizing and antioxidant)
soothing ingredients: stearyl glycyrrhizine ester, raspberry fruit extract
anticorrosion system: phenoxyethanol, hydroxybenzyl ester , hydroxybenzyl ester
pigment: CI 77492 (yellow), red iron oxide
daily chemical flavor
Overall evaluation:
ingredient with an added amount of more than 1% are synthetic oils and various emulsifiers and softeners, thickener , plus yellow and red pigments to create the texture of "ice cream". This texture may create a so-called "high-end feeling", but in addition to moisturizing, it does not have more effects on the skin (pigments can also play a certain role in covering and refining the face). We can use more streamlined and skin-friendly ingredients to achieve moisturizing and moisturizing effects, reduce the burden on the skin, and leave space for active ingredients that can be absorbed and utilized by the skin.
The amount of the added amount of several effective ingredients is less than 1%. For the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate and raspberry fruit extract, the actual effect of adding less than 1% is limited. Although
Hydroxyproline is an important part of collagen, it is difficult to absorb in skin care products and is even more impossible to use directly. Therefore, it is more of a moisturizing agent and has minimal anti-wrinkle and whitening effects.
Suitable for skin types: dry, mixed skin
Recommended index: Three stars
33Software sebum film repair cream
Reference price: ¥1580
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Capacity: 48ml
Unit price: ¥32.92/1ml
Version: Guozhuang.com 号(Shanghai)2020011000
Ingredient analysis:
Main oil: Polydimethylsiloxane (2nd place), hydrogenated polyisolic Butene (synthetic squalane , 3rd)
Physiological lipids: cholesterol, ceramide 1, ceramide 3, sunflower seed oil unsaponiated (containing phytosterol)
moisturizing ingredients: glycerol
soothing ingredients: rosemary essential oil, spicy mint essential oil, lavender essential oil (essence oil has a strong smell, very low addition)
active ingredients: adenosine
anticorrosion system : Phenoxyethanol, chlorophenyl glycerine, cinnaglycol (both moisturizing)
hydroxytoluene (preservatives included with raw materials)
1 flavor: plant essential oil fragrance ( rosemary , spicy mint, lavender )
pigment:
Overall evaluation:
mainly polymers of silicone oil and silicone oil, so the texture is not thick.The product name is "Sebaceous Film Repair Cream" Sebaceous Film refers to a layer of oil formed by emulsifying the sebaceous glands secreted by the sebaceous glands, peeling keratin, sweat, etc. at room temperature, covering the surface of the skin. But judging from the introduction of the product formula and details page, it is actually "cutary liposomes" rather than sebum membrane. The stratum corneum and sebum membrane form a physical skin barrier.
242 on the product refers to the ratio of ceramide cholesterol and fatty acids. The stratum corneum consists of keratinocytes and liposomes filled between keratinocytes (also called physiological liposomes), mainly ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid . The three exist in an equal molar ratio (the amount of substance ). The ceramide used in the raw materials in skin care products is derived from artificial synthesis, cholesterol and free fat are generally extracted from vegetable oils automatically. The optimal ratio is 3:1:1, which means that the content of one of the three ingredients is arbitrarily increased, and the best effect of close to and reaching 3:1:1 is the best solution to the skin barrier. If there are only one or two ingredients, it will not help promote barrier repair. The three components of
form a whole. It is necessary to complain. It is unprofessional to list the functions of the three ingredients separately in this product details page. The details page also writes 242 as ceramide 2% cholesterol 4% fatty acid 2%. In fact, 2:4:2 is the relative proportional relationship of the three ingredients, or the proportion in a specific raw material, not the absolute amount of added to the entire product.
Except for physiological liposomes, there are almost no other active ingredients. Phenoxyethanol is not friendly to sensitive skin with damaged barriers and may cause tingling sensation. Essential oils are too permeable, and adding a lot will also be irritating. There is no effective soothing ingredient for sensitive skin sting, burning, and redness.
In order to pursue texture and skin feel, the formula adds a large number of emulsifiers, stabilizers and skin feel conditioners. Some of the ingredients are at high safety risks. For example, isobutane isobutane isophilic and has a low liquid content. However, it does not conform to the principle of mild ingredients in sensitive skin care products.
Speaking of physiological liposomes, the products reviewed above are fully added in Yuze Skin Barrier Repair Moisturizer and Qianzhimi Polypeptide Rejuvenation Moisturizer . As for physiological liposomes, this one can be completely replaced. If it is priced, it can be said to be a "straight replacement" but it should be a high-end product in terms of ingredients.
Physiological liposomes generally appear in the ingredients list of skin care products: N-palmitoyl hydroxyproline cetyl ester (ceramide derivative), stearic acid , rapesterol, ceramide NP; ceramide AP; ceramide EOP; phytosphingosine; cholesterol, cholesterol.
Suitable for skin type: Mixed skin, dry skin, mild sensitive skin
Recommended index: Four stars
4Fulifan silk moisturizing and repair cream
Reference price: ¥298
Capacity: 50ml
Unit price: ¥5.96/1ml
Version: Guozhuang.com Preparation for Numbers (Shanghai) 2020008310
Ingredient analysis:
Main oil: oily synthetic ester octyldodecanol myristate (4th place), squalane ranks 6th, auxiliary macadamia oil , the amount of oil added is not high, the texture is gel-like.
Physiological lipids: Plant sterol macadamia oleate, cholesterol (cholesterol)
Moisturizing ingredients: glycerol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol
Soothing ingredients: plant extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate , nicotinamide
nicotinamide
suffocational ingredient: plant extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate , nicotinamide
Anticorrosion system: phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, pigment: no addition
Overall evaluation:
has become a relatively simple, a basic moisturizing cream , with average repair effect. There are not many types of oils, the amount of addition is not high, the texture is jelly-like, which is generally refreshing and moisturizing. But some users still report that the "oil" may not be real oil, but the skin feeling brought by the oil itself and the thickener.
phytosterol is added, but the combination of ceramide and free fatty acids is lacking, which affects the repair effect of the skin barrier. The amount of nicotinamide added is very low, as an auxiliary.
Many people are concerned about the irritation of nicotinamide. In fact, the irritation of nicotinamide mainly comes from the nicotinamide that may contain nicotinamide. As long as it is a high-purity and high-quality nicotinamide, even if it is a very high proportion, it will not irritate. Niacinamide is effective in consolidating barriers, anti-inflammatory , whitening , etc. It is powerful, inexpensive and very gentle.
Several plant extracts have good ingredients, but the order is very low, the amount of addition is small, and the effect is limited. Phenoxyethanol is not very friendly to sensitive skin with
anticorrosion system. Of course, it is really sensitive skin and it is not very suitable for this cream.
Skin type: Mixed and ordinary dry skin.
Recommended Index: Three Stars
5Yuze Skin Barrier Repair Moisturizer
Reference Price: ¥198
Capacity: l150g
Unit price: ¥3.96/1g
Registration version: Shanghai G Zhuang.com Preparation 2017024399
Ingredient analysis:
The biggest feature of Yuze This home moisturizing and repair cream is that it adds a lot of oils.
vegetable oil : jojoba oil (fourth place), sunflower seed oil (fifth place), olive fruit oil, avocado oil, among which jojoba oil drainage and sunflower seed oil are added the most.
synthetic oils: hydrogenated coconut glycerides, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, etc., and a large number of ester emulsifiers.
In terms of physiological lipids, three types are added: ceramide NP, (nerve) sphingolipids, and cholesterol, which are very helpful for accelerating the repair of the skin barrier.
Anticorrosion: phenoxyethanol is the main
No fragrance and pigment
Overall evaluation:
Obviously this is a developed for large dry skin and moderate and severe sensitive skin. But the skin may look sticky. The brand claims that this is a mousse texture, which is the result of mixing a large amount of oil and mixing with a variety of thickeners. But is it because there are too many oils and fats that have to form this texture in order to blend, or is it intentional? I think it is more likely to be the former, because this skin feeling with a certain glue texture is not pleasing.
Oil is indeed necessary for skin barrier repair, but is it necessary to add so much? The addition of physiological lipids in
is a highlight. Many products that claim skin barrier repair function do not add any physiological liposomes, or just add a little water-based ceramide to pretend to be in the ingredient list.
Physiological liposomes can be absorbed by the stratum corneum, filling in the loss, and accelerating the repair of the skin barrier.The collective name of animals and plants is more of a sealant to lock in water and moisturizing.
Product slot
The formula of this product has almost no soothing effect in terms of soothing. For skin that is itching, tingling, and burning, it may not have an immediate soothing effect. There is no involvement in repairing red and bloody threads. There is an Arabic galactan component in
ingredient, which is light yellow and water-soluble, which will affect the color and smell of the material body (the raw material itself is slightly odorful). The main functions are moisturizers, film-forming agents and stabilizers, which are widely used in food. Judging from the current information, this ingredient does not have more unique and excellent effects.
Anticorrosion system
The main preservative is phenoxyethanol. Phenoxyethanol is a relatively good preservative and has high safety. But phenoxyethanol is highly permeable to the skin, which can cause tingling and burning sensations to sensitive skin with weak skin barriers.
Due to the low tolerance of sensitive skin, the anticorrosion system requirements of moisturizing repair products are relatively high. At present, the best and most costly anticorrosion system is polyol anticorrosion, mainly pentyl glycol , hexyl glycol , ketoglycol and ethylhexylglycerol , etc. Safety is better than traditional preservatives.
Summary
Overall, Yuze's face cream is a careful product, focusing on strengthening the moisturizing and repair of the skin barrier from lipids, and using a variety of oils. But it seems to be a bit too hard, because a large amount of oil must be used to use a large amount of emulsifiers and thickeners to regulate the skin feeling, and the skin feeling will inevitably become thicker.
But after all, the core framework of the product was determined more than ten years ago. The idea of repairing barriers is relatively traditional, and it is slightly insufficient in enhancing skin tolerance, sootheing skin, maintaining stability, etc.
Recommended index: Three stars
