Lugang has "three many" - many historical sites, many craftsmen, and many snacks. The bicycle passes through the alleys turning around in Quli, passing through old streets such as "Misi Street", "Bandian Street", and "Daweiliao". Although many old houses have been dilapidated and the doors are cracked, from the quaint lanterns and umbrellas hanging in front of the door, the plaques such as "Pineshadow Zhai", "Hedetang", and "Qiyang Yanpai" on the lintel, you can still see the prosperity and elegance of "the alley is hidden deep in cultural treasures, and the gate is full of appreciation for the style of ancient people".
Lugang’s ancient charm is most concentrated in “Jiuqu Lane” (also known as Jinsheng Lane). Jiuqu Lane does not really have nine bends. "Nine" had the most meaning in ancient China, and "Nine Bends" mean a lot of bends. Lugang is bordered by the Taiwan Strait. After the beginning of winter, the northeast monsoon was cold and the residents arranged the buildings in a roundabout way to prevent wind damage. Even in the twelfth month of the cold winter, the alleys are still as warm as spring, creating the "Quanxiang Winter Sunny", one of the eight scenic spots in Lugang.
There are two famous ancient house attractions in Jiuqu Lane, one is "Shiyi Tower" and the other is "Yi Tower". The former is a "running corridor" with red bricks and green tiles crossing the alleys in the sky. The tenth refers to "proper piano, chess, poetry, painting, flowers, moon, smoke, wine, tea, and bread". Just listening to this name, you can imagine how rich and colorful the spare time of the wealthy businessmen and poets in Lugang were.
Yilou is an attic in the "Qingchang Ancient House" of the large mansion in the alley. There is a tragic love story similar to "Smoke Locking Heavy Building". According to legend, there was a newly married couple living in this building. The husband went to Beijing for an exam, but he had no news after he left, and the woman died of depression. It was drizzling. When I heard this story, I couldn't help but think of Dai Wangshu's poem "Rain Alley". It seems that there may be a "woman with sorrow like lilacs" deep in each long and lonely rainy alley.
Lugang, which has a literary and elegant style, has a "famous alley" with a vulgar name - Moru Lane. The alley has a history of more than 200 years. It itself is just a narrow fire protection alley between houses. Only one person can pass through the cramped area. If a man and a woman meet when they pass through the alley, physical contact will inevitably occur. "A gentleman is courteous, and a villain touches his breasts", translated into today's popular saying, "a rude man" can take the opportunity to sexually harass him, hence the name.
It turns out that the locals thought the alley was unfavorable, so they also named "Junzi Lane" and "Breast Protection Alley". However, when tourists from other places came, they would still ask for "Breast Touching Alley". The locals did not think it was offended and were generous to guide the way. I once and my colleagues "test the alley". In fact, as long as I go sideways, I can pass through irrelevantly. So, the key is not whether the name sounds good or not, but whether the heart is dirty.
Not far from the Thomu Lane, it is the old house of the famous Gu family in Lugang. In the early years of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, the Gu family moved from Quanzhou to Taiwan and lived in Lugang for generations. Because of their good management and good dancing, they became a prominent family in the local area. During the Japanese occupation period, Gu Xianrong, who became rich, established the "Yawa Travel", set up his headquarters in his hometown of Lugang, and built this European luxury house, named it "Yawa Hall", which the locals still call it "Yawa House". Mr. Koo Zhenfu, the former chairman of the Straits Foundation who is well-known to the mainland, was born here.
▲The old house of Gu family in Lugang
Gu family ancient house is divided into two parts. In front is a Baroque-style Western-style building built after the Gu family's career was developed. It was completed in 1919 and is still the most gorgeous building in the town. The stone carvings outside the building are exquisitely carved and beautiful. Behind is the traditional red brick house in southern Fujian, which is simple and unpretentious. The former residence of the Gu family is now established as the Lugang Folk Culture Center. The displays inside can give people an in-depth understanding of the history of Lugang and the wealthy life of the Gu family in the past.
Next to the Gu family is the former residence of Ding Shouquan, a representative of traditional Fujian architecture in Lugang. This is the only long-shaped street-house courtyard house in Lugang Shuoguo. The layout is "three obstacles, five falls and two passes through water", including a storefront, a deep well, a photo hall, a middle well, and a large hall. And after coming out from the back door of the Ding family mansion, is the busiest and bustling Zhongshan Road in Lugang.
Because the street top is covered with rain and sun, Zhongshan Road is also known as the "No Heavenly Street". Most of the houses located on both sides of the street can be traced back to the Qing Dynasty or the Japanese occupation period. Zhongshan Road is also a food street in Lugang. The time-honored brands Yuzhenzhai and Azhen Meat Bun are located in Zhongshan Road.The "Ding Tai Fung" Xiaolongbao is famous on both sides of the Taiwan Strait, but when it comes to buns, I think Azhen meat buns are the most delicious. The most unique feature of Azhen meat bun is its special milk fragrance, handmade skin, and a "super Q" taste. When I arrived in Lugang, I would rather not eat a regular meal, and I would eat two more Azhen meat buns. It is said that when Jiang Jingguo was attending a banquet for VIPs, he asked Zheng Zhenshan, the owner of the restaurant, to make cakes and snacks.
"Three steps, one small temple, five steps, one big temple." The immigrant society lacks a sense of stability, and the people in southern Fujian are cautious in chasing far away, so there are more than 60 palaces, halls, temples and temples in Lugang today, and the gods offered to them are from Mazu, Xuantian Emperor, Guan Gong, the City God to Guanyin, to sending children to Guanyin.
The Mazu Temple where Luo Dayou sang is called "Lugang Tianhou Temple". It is located on Zhongshan Road. The temple is full of incense and the temple entrance is a lively business district (about Lugang Tianhou Temple, detailed introduction will be given in the following text). Longshan Temple on Sanmin Road is another famous historical site and faith center in Lugang. This palace-style building in the Northern Song Dynasty, which has four entrances and three courtyards, is completely built in accordance with the Longshan Temple in Wenling, Fujian. Even the stone slabs paved in the temple are ballast stones brought from the mainland by early ancestors. When you go to Longshan Temple in Lugang, you must carefully admire the stone sculptures and murals in the temple. Each pattern is very particular and vocal. It is best to listen carefully to the local guide volunteers, otherwise it is "like entering Baoshan and returning empty-handed."
stone and winding streets, ancient houses in southern Fujian with red walls and swallowtails, Mazu Temple surrounded by smoke, old women who pray devoutly at the desk table... Every time I come to Lugang, I feel like I am returning to my hometown in southern Fujian. The difference is that few people know my hometown, but Lugang became famous in the Chinese world because of Luo Dayou's song "Lugang Town".
Lugang is a small town affiliated to Changhua County. It is across the sea from Quanzhou and Zhangzhou in Fujian Province. It was the earliest destination for Quanzhou residents to migrate to Taiwan. In the Qing Dynasty, Lugang was filled with thousands of sails, merchants gathered, and cultural heritage. It was the second largest city in Taiwan after Tainan, the political center. It is called "one mansion, two deer and three monga", and "the prosperity is like Little Quanzhou."
As the silt of the streams and sand, the busy Shanggang is gradually abandoned, and the golden age of Lugang is gone forever. However, "It is no wonder that it is a blessing to lose your horse." The declining town retains its simplest style. In today's modern civilization, it has become a hot topic for contemporary people to visit ancient times and seek the secluded.
"Taipei is not my home, my hometown has no neon lights." This is the Lugang in Luo Dayou's song and many people's hearts. In fact, today's Lugang neon lights are twinkling, and the old street ancient houses are also under the siege of excessive commercial development and modern buildings. But after all, there are still mottled brick walls, small grocery stores selling incense, slow pace of life and simple and kind people. They still believe in Mazu as devoutly as their ancestors, and still speak "Lugang accent" different from other counties and cities in Taiwan and the same as Quanzhou dialect.
"The blood of the native people must flow back to the native people before it will stop boiling!" Lugang is not mine, nor is it the hometown of many Taipei people, but it is the spiritual hometown of many contemporary people who pursue their dreams and lose their dreams in the city. Only by returning to your hometown can your hearts be clear and peaceful.
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