Day 13: Wuling (Songxue Tower)-Puli -Sun Moon Lake, cycling mileage: 92 kilometers.
The quilt covered last night exuded a smell of sweat and feet. Obviously, I didn’t wash it for N days, so I had to ride on Sichuan-Tibet Line like I: use fleece jacket as a pillow towel, and sleep in long-sleeved trousers and clothes to avoid direct contact with the quilt and sheets . Perhaps it was because of the altitude sickness (3200 meters above sea level did not produce obvious altitude sickness symptoms, but after rising from sea level to this height within 12 hours, the altitude sickness was quite obvious), I didn't sleep well overnight. When I woke up in the morning, I looked dazed and exhausted. Like other roommates, I folded the quilt neatly and cleaned the room. I left Building 3 after I was sure I didn’t embarrass the mainland.
When I came outdoors, the first thing I did was to send my wife a message to report my safety, and it actually sent it out. After a while, I received my wife's reply and made an appointment to meet at Sun Moon Lake at noon. A stone in my heart finally fell to the ground.
When I arrived at the restaurant, I ate 3 bowls of rice and 2 bowls of porridge in one go, which made me feel like a "foodie".
The mountains are filled with heavy fog and the cold wind is biting. I put on almost all my clothes like I made a rice dumpling. At the intersection in front of Songxue Tower, I clearly saw that another uphill leading to the fog was almost upright. From the beginning, I stinged my legs and rode for less than 100 meters, so I got off the car and pushed. The remaining 1.4 kilometers of steep slope was pushed for more than half an hour. I was trembling with cold, but when I pushed to Wuling Pavilion, I was exhausted and sweating profusely.
Wuling Pavilion
Wuling parking lot, a group of road maintenance workers were doing the preparations before the start of construction
Wuling Pavilion was built on a mountain bag five meters high on the left side of the road. Standing on the observation deck of Wuling Pavilion, it was like conquering every mountain pass on the road riding in Tibet, and was filled with a sense of accomplishment and pride. What’s different is that at this time it is not just the pleasure of conquering the mountain. In my heart, Wuling is not just a benchmark for cycling, and Wuling Pavilion is not just an altitude sign. Climbing Wuling is like experiencing a baptism, reciting an epic, or looking at a soul-shaking picture; Dayuling and Hehuan Mountain , Liwu Creek and Taroko Canyon, "Lifan Road" and Green Water Trail, Taya and Seidk people... …The process of riding Suhua Highway and Zhongheng Highway is not only a process of cycling to see the scenery, but also reading the history of changes in modern Taiwan and the blood and tears of Taiwanese aboriginal people resisting foreign humiliation. This gave me a new understanding of the Taiwanese aboriginal people (and then I have deep respect for them), and also made me remember two famous wars (events) that took place in the jungle of central mountain range - the Battle of Taroko and the Wushe incident.
Taruko Battle :After the failure of the Sino-Japanese War of 1894-1895, the Qing government was forced to sign the "Treaty of Shimonoseki " with Japan and ceded Taiwan to Japan. After Japan occupied Taiwan, in the 18 years from 1898 to 1916, it launched several attacks against indigenous people who were dissatisfied with the rule. Among them, the "Tarotou Military Operation" in May 1914 was the longest and largest. The Japanese army mobilized more than 20,000 troops and equipped with new guns, cannons and ammunition to attack the Taya people in the east and west. Among them, the Western Route Army was personally commanded by Taiwan Governor Matthew Sakuma. The Taroko (Taya) people participated in the defense only had more than 2,300 people, and they resisted the well-equipped Japanese army with simple bows and spears and shotguns. After more than 60 days of fierce battle, only less than 300 people were left and they were forced to surrender to Japanese rule. This was the largest war in Taiwan in the 20th century, and both sides paid a heavy price for it, including the death of the Japanese Governor Matthew Sakuma as a result of the battle.
Photos taken by the Japanese army during the Battle of Taroko (the Japanese barracks in the mountains and forests, the Japanese army burned the Taroko villages, and massacred the captives of the Taroko people)
Wushe incident: is also called the "Saidek women hanging themselves". The reason for the suicide is that women in the clan hang themselves collectively in order to make men have no worries and sacrifice their lives to kill the enemy.The cause of the Wushe incident was that the Saidks were dissatisfied with the long-term harsh tyranny of the Japanese occupiers, and joined forces with various tribes to assemble 300 heroes. On the day of the annual Wushe Gongxue Society Sports, they rushed into the venue and killed a total of 134 Japanese policemen and their families. After the
incident, the Japanese side mobilized a total of 3,000 troops from the police and the army, and used advanced weapons such as aircraft, mountain cannons, , poison gas bombs, and other advanced weapons to suppress the Seidks. The Seedks relied on bows and arrows and hunting rifles to deal with the enemy and resisted tenaciously in the jungle cliffs. In the end, they were outnumbered and killed and injured, and were almost wiped out. The total population of the tribes involved in the uprising was more than 1,200, and only more than 300 strong men directly participated in the war. The Japanese suppression caused 644 deaths in the Saidk tribe, of which 290 committed suicide. After the Battle of Taroko, the indigenous people resisted another tragic war between the Japanese colonists. The movie " Sedek Bale " restores the tragic history of this war.
Photos taken by the Japanese army that year (the picture on the left shows the tragic situation of Saidek women hanging themselves, and the picture on the right shows the Japanese side adopting the "foreign-making fan" extermination strategy to massacre the anti-Japanese survivors)
The Battle of Taroko made Japan rule the Taroko tribes, and immediately built the "Lifan Road" in the Liwuxi River Basin, setting up police "residents" along the way to strengthen the management of the indigenous people. After the Wushe incident, the Japanese occupiers changed their original governance policies, moved the Taroko people and other tribes from the mountainous areas to flat land, and started to renovate the "Lifan Road" in 1934, expanding it to the "Hehuan Yue Road" with a total length of 104 kilometers. It was not until the establishment of the Taroko National Park Management Office in 1986 that the green water to the confluence section was renovated and became the green water trail today.
Green Water Trail, like the Sakadang Trail I passed yesterday, was transformed from the ancient trails that the indigenous people used before, and now they have become tourist trails. However, in the eyes of locals, these trails are historical witnesses of our ancestors defending their homes with their lives and their pride.
In Wuling Pavilion, I met a group of young men and women driving by themselves, all of whom were Taiwanese. They were amazed at me riding alone in Wuling and took photos with me. Standing on the observation deck, I looked around greedily, wanting to see the main peak of Hehuan Mountain and the main peak of Qilai Mountain, but it was filled with fog and the visibility was less than 100 meters, so I saw nothing. After waiting for half an hour, I began to go down the mountain and headed towards Puli and Sun Moon Lake along the middle and westward line.
Wuling to Puli is a 50-kilometer downhill, and the road conditions are much better than the eastbound line.
Looking back at Wuling, it turned out to be a mountain meadow scenery, very much like a mountain pass on the way to Tibet
Photos taken by the Japanese army at the same location during the Battle of Taroko (the Japanese army is giving a lecture to the civilians who came to transport military supplies)
Leaving Wuling, he also left the clouds on the top of the mountain, and the red sun shone on the earth. Standing on the viewing platform in front of the monument of " Taroko National Park ", you can see the distance, blue sky, sea of clouds, villages, terraces, thousands of mountains and valleys, and the traffic at the foot of the mountain, the smoke curling in the cooking stove, and the beautiful scenery is like a picture. There was a young Taiwanese couple driving on the viewing platform watching the scenery and taking photos. I took the opportunity to ask them to help take a group of photos.
"Taroko National Park" observation deck took a picture
Looking at the cloud waterfall on the Yushan Mountains
Villages and terraces on the hillside of the south bank of the canyon
Villages and tea gardens on both sides of Zhuoshui Creek
On the way down the mountain, I kept meeting young Taiwanese riders, all of whom were very professional equipment: cycling suits , road cars, lock shoes, lightweight (naked bike), and not even a small backpack. This is obviously the rhythm of the competition, unlike me riding with weights. Judging from time, they should have stayed in the middle. It should be much easier to jump to Wuling from the westward line, because the road conditions on the westward line are excellent, there is no major ups and downs, nor the danger of landslides or falling rocks. You can replenish and rest everywhere along the way, so most Taiwanese riders choose to challenge Wuling from the westward line.
If yesterday's riding was "eyes in heaven and body in hell", then my feeling at this time was "eyes in heaven and body in heaven". The beautiful scenery was longer, like enjoying a big meal with good colors, fragrance and taste, with joy and joy in body and mind. Being proud, I took the wrong path and missed a very famous attraction in the middle - Qingjing Farm . When I realized that I might have made a mistake, I had already gone down to the foot of the mountain. Although Qingjing Farm was very attractive to me, I really didn’t have the energy and time to climb back to the vertical height of more than 1,500 meters to visit Qingjing Farm. I had to continue to head towards Puli and Sun Moon Lake with regret.
The long downhill of about 40 kilometers from Wuling to Renzhiguan is all riding in Renai Township (i.e. the place where the Wushe incident occurred). Along the way, he passed the anti-Japanese hero Molarudao (i.e. the initiator and leader of the Wushe incident) Memorial Park, Wushe Reservoir, and Renzhiguan. The Wushe incident happened 83 years ago on the playground of Wushe Public School, where the annual sports meeting was being held. Coincidentally, today when I passed by the gate of the "National Middle School" of Renai Township, the venue for the "57th Township Sports Conference of Renai Township, Nantou County" was being arranged on the school playground.
一新方新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新新� In the Qing Dynasty, Han people were forbidden from entering the mountain from here, so it was called "Ren Zhiguan". In the early days of the Japanese occupation, the Japanese army wanted to enter the mountains from here to conquer, but was repelled by the indigenous residents. This battle was called the "Renzhiguan Battle". Renzhiguan is a tourist attraction now.
The road conditions of the "Westward Line" of Zhongheng Highway are much better than those of the "Eastward Line"
Renai Township "National Middle School" playground
Wushe Reservoir
people stopped the cusp
After passing Puli, it went uphill again, but fortunately the slope was not big; after going to the low altitude area, I no longer had the trouble of altitude reversal, and my physical strength quickly returned to normal, so I rode easily. At one o'clock in the afternoon, I arrived at the bank of Sun Moon Lake and was hungry, so I ate instant noodles at the convenience store and rode along the lakeside road to the water club - a beautiful and prosperous modern town next to Sun Moon Lake.
sat on the steps next to " Visitor Information Center ". After waiting for 20 minutes, the Guofeng bus that my wife and children took from Taipei arrived on time. The family reunited again after two days of separation (it was simply two days of separation from life and death), and I was a little excited by the beautiful Sun Moon Lake. The first thing I did after the meeting was to find a decent hotel to stay in. The place where I was sitting was the steps of a B&B, and the store was called "Qiaoerxuan B&B". It has food and accommodation, which is very convenient and warm.
At this point, my cycling around the island came to an end. The original plan to continue riding Alishan was blocked due to the typhoon damage to some sections of Alishan. In addition, I had to give up because I had been riding for several days of cycling, and I had too little time to spend with my wife and children - I had to give up because I felt guilty and other reasons. If I still have the chance to ride Taiwan next time, then I will choose to take the longitudinal line of the central mountain range (central mountain range, snow-capped mountain range, Yushan mountain range), namely: Taipei - Cihu - Fuxing - Lishan - Nanshan - Wuling - Sun Moon Lake - Alishan - Kaohsiung . For the remaining days, I will accompany my wife and children to continue to taste Taiwan in another way. At this time, the first thing I have to do is eat and then take my wife and children to visit Sun Moon Lake.
Sun Moon Lake accompanying shot
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Sun Moon Lake photo (self-portrait)
Water Society photo
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