Enjoying food is difficult.
Even so, there are still many ancient people who are loyal to food. Take Su Shi, a writer of Song Dynasty, he is very serious about food.
Su Shi, who calls himself "the old food", had an almost fanatical pursuit of food during his tenure in Xuzhou. Xuzhou belongs to the confluence of water streams and is extremely rich in aquatic products. Su Shi also wrote about this: "Pengcheng has great mountains and rivers, and fish and crabs pretend to be rivers and lakes." Because of his love for river products, and Xuzhou is rich in fish and shrimps, he created four kinds of delicacies, namely, rebate meat and golden toad play beads. , Wuguan chicken, drunk green prawn, later called "Dongpo four treasures".
In fact, there are many delicacies related to Su Shi. From this point of view, Su Shi has quite a skill in cooking, and he just lives up to the name of "Lao Dao".
In addition to Su Shi, landscape and pastoral poet Meng Haoran is also a good foodie. Not only loves to eat, he is also loyal to feasting with friends. Every day, when the wind blows and the wind blows, I gather three or five friends, put a few refreshing side dishes on the table, and then the wine glass touches the intestines, making the chattering uncomfortable.
If you just drink small wines and chat about the usual things, but Meng Haoran realized that this is not enough to drink comfortably, and you can’t record it when you love it! Therefore, there is the well-known saying that has been passed down through the ages: "Kai Xuan Nianchang Pu, talk about the wine."
It seems that Meng Haoran is really a literary youth!
Although the ancients have been passed down through the ages because of "eating", some people have been criticized or even scolded by later generations because of "eating" as a model of satire by ancient literati.
Yang Guifei is one of them.
Yang Guifei likes to eat lychees and has a soft spot for it. In history, there are roughly two opinions about her "lychee love". It is said that the climate in Sichuan was warm at that time. Litchi might be cultivated in the land of Shu County, and Concubine Yang was born in Shu County (Chengdu). Only Concubine Yang, who had eaten lychee, thought about this.
Li Zhao of the Xianzong Period of the Tang Dynasty once wrote in the "Supplement to the History of the Tang Dynasty": "Concubine Yang was born in Shu and eats lychees. Born in the South China Sea, it is better than those in Shu, so he makes progress every year."
There is another saying that Tang Xuanzong’s confidant and Concubine Yang’s Bole Gao Lishi paid tribute to lychees when he recommended the famous products of his hometown, and Concubine Yang, who tasted lychees, was very happy and loved it.
But then again, the lychee shell is bright red, huge and sweet. If you look aside, it is white and juicy. It is quite refreshing to eat, and it does have a fascinating ability. Regardless of the historical reasons, Concubine Yang was fascinated by lychee. The unique taste of lychee alone makes people greedy.
is just that when Concubine Yang was enjoying it, she ignored the difficulty of transporting the litchi in large quantities from other places. This long-distance food delivery is a big problem that brings troubles to the people and money.
Yang Guifei eats lychees from three sources, namely Lingnan (Guangdong and Guangxi), Fujian, and Shu (Sichuan-Chongqing), and most of the records after the mid-North Song Dynasty are in Fuzhou, Sichuan.
During the Tang Tianbao period (742-756), in order to allow Concubine Yang to eat lychees, Emperor Xuanzong of Tang deliberately established a litchi garden in Fuzhou and built a post road for litchi transportation, which was later called the "Litchi Old Road" ".
There were post roads in the Tang Dynasty. It is said that there will be a station every 20 miles, with a total of 1639 post roads. And this prestigious "Litchi Ancient Road" starts from Datang Fuling County and arrives at Chang'an via Ziwu Road.
No, this is the problem.
Litches are not easy to keep fresh. If they are transported from the south, it will take as little as three days and as long as several days. As a result, the lychees will lose their original freshness. Bai Juyi once described the fresh-keeping time limit of lychee in the "Litchi Picture Preface": "If you leave the branch, the color will change in one day, the aroma will change in the second day, and the taste will change in the third day. Go for it."
So "fast" was the most important aspect of litchi transportation at that time.
The personnel responsible for the transportation know that the best lychee is to be offered. If you want the freshness of the lychee, you may not care about the loss of money and the death of horses.
Litchi will change people and horses at a fixed station during transportation, because in the day and night roads, horses that die from exhaustion are easy to appear. In this long-term road of offering litchi, most of them rely on the hooves of hundreds of fallen horses in the mountains and exhausted transporters to reach the destination smoothly.
When the lychees were sent to Chang'an, in a piece of dust, one by one refreshing food was taken out. When Concubine Yang was enjoying it, she could only see the lotus between her eyebrows stretched out and smiled knowingly.
It’s just that she never expected that this kind of behavior that left the life of Li people behind in order to satisfy one person has received a lot of criticism.
In ancient times, writers were criticized for paying tribute to litchi.
Poet Du Mu felt that this lewdness and misunderstanding of the country was really unbearable, so he wrote "Queju of Passing the Huaqing Palace", depicting this scene exquisitely:
"Changan Huiwang embroidered into piles." , Qianmen on the top of the mountain opened for the first time, a ride on the Hongchen concubine laughed, no one knew it was litchi."
Regarding the litchi matter, Su Shi used documentary writing techniques to write "Litchi Sigh" with an angry pen, for the emperor The confidant smiled on Weibo, and the practice of paying tribute thousands of miles but hurting the people, expressing his full indignation:
"Ten miles and one set of flying dust and ash, five miles and one line of soldiers are urged by fire. The pit and the valley are resting, knowing that it is lychee and longan. Come. Speeding across the mountain and the sea, the wind, branches and leaves are like new picking. The beauty in the palace is broken, and the dust is splashed with blood for thousands of years.”
Concubine Yang, who died bitterly in Maweipo, in later generations After receiving such ridicule, she must have never expected her under the yellow earth. I thought about this episode of three thousand beloved, I thought that the name would go down in history. How could you expect to be infamous forever because of this "post lychee" incident?
And throughout the ages, you can be so obsessed with "Litchi" and yet carry this controversy, I'm afraid Concubine Yang is alone.
It seems that enjoying food is really not an easy task.
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