As we all know, the standard match of "official clothes" in Song Dynasty is the "official hat" with long wings on both sides. If you search the official hats of the Song Dynasty, you can see that all the answers on the Internet say that this is an invention of Song Taizu Zhao Kuangyin, which is to "prevent courtiers from whispering, whispering, and discussing the affairs of the court".
Is this really true?
▲Song Renzong
Zhao Kuangyin designing the official hat in the TV series "Qingpingle" has spread so widely, it is almost becoming a well-known "common sense", and it is always The interpretation is vivid and vivid-
After Zhao Kuangyin's yellow robe was added to the throne, the ministers have not been used to the conversion of roles, and they always have no respect or inferiority.
One day, when the narrow-minded Zhao Kuangyin saw the officials whispering to the court, he became furious and made a plan. He decreed to develop a special hat with two long wings on both sides for officials. Use it to prevent them from biting their ears and whispering.
sounds like a sudden realization and makes sense.
Actually, this is just a story fabricated by posterity.
1. The long-footed heads that existed before the Northern Song Dynasty
"Long ears" turned out to be just a strap to fix the hat , in fact, it was hundreds of years before Song Taizu. The strips have gradually been exaggerated and stretched. People of are long and beautiful . After a century of gradual lengthening process, it is not that Zhao Kuangyin suddenly invented it when he saw the minister whispering.
This kind of "official hat" evolved from 幞头 in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It is still directly called "Liaotou" or "Zheshangjin" in the official literature of the Song Dynasty.
The head is a black square fabric with four corners. After covering the top of the head, the two corners are knotted and drooped at the back, and the two corners are folded to the top of the head and knotted and fixed, so it is also called "folded up" Towel". "The head is four-legged, but four-straps. The second strap is tied to the back of the head, and the second strap is tied to the head, so that the twists and turns are attached to the top, so it is also called'folding the scarf'."
▲The original method of the Tang Yaotou, the two corners are folded to the top of the head and knotted, and the other two small corners are knotted and drooping at the back (yan Wang painted)
The two knotted behind the head Horn is the predecessor of "long ears".
After the two small hairpin corners are knotted, they hang behind and shake. People gradually feel that they are not beautiful or solemn enough, so they try to make various exaggerated transformations and fix them. The two corners become the decoration of the hairpin. Focus. During the three hundred years from the early Tang Dynasty to the late Tang Dynasty, it became longer and longer, and a skeleton was added to form various fixed shapes.
or formed into a horoscope, or left and right flattened, or obliquely upward, or facing the sky, or one side, or stretched, or crossed, and there are long legs, angles, angles, flower angles, corners, soft Various shapes of angle and comfortable angle. In the late Tang Dynasty, the flat head and feet elongated to the left and right gradually became popular and became a commonly used standard head.
▲All kinds of heads and feet in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, from short feet to horoscopes, to straight and upturned, all kinds of exaggerations are
▲Five Dynasties Fahua Scripture Pumenpin in Disguised Picture
▲ The murals in the frescoes of the Late Tang and Five Dynasties are available in almost 360 degrees, and flat angles are also very popular
如上图， As early as the late Tang and Five Dynasties before Zhao Kuangyin, various exaggerated head and feet shapes have been widely popular, including straight angles, which are longer than shoulders, similar to the Northern Song Dynasty. Almost all of the five generations of male supporters in the Dunhuang murals also wear horns.
Regarding Yaotou, the official documents of the Song Dynasty and the literati's notebook have a lot of discussion, which can be called a lot of knowledge. But in all the Song Dynasty literature, There is no mention that the Zhanjiao Yaotou was invented by Song Taizu for an official. People in the Song Dynasty didn’t even understand why they wanted to show their roles. For example, Cheng Dachang in Song Dynasty said in "Yan Fanlu:
" Behind my head... it was changed to hard feet. History does not contain the beginning. I don’t know when.”
On the contrary, many Song Dynasty documents also mention Hard angle, flat angle, and Tang and Five Dynasties. . For example, Song Wei's "Ancient and Modern Textual Research" said that "from the Five Dynasties to the Song Dynasty, the headpiece was used as jewelry, and the lacquered yarn was used for it, and the belt was long horizontally". Wang Dechen of the Northern Song Dynasty also concluded in his "History" that the tuotou has been changing new styles since its appearance. The two legs are bent upwards, or two broad feet, or short and acute angles. There are many styles, and each has its own advantages. ", and developed into "extension of feet", which is the style of "present clothing" in the Northern Song Dynasty:
"Liaotou, Emperor Wu of the Later Zhou Dynasty had four legs, so it was called a fold-up scarf.... At the beginning of Tang Wude, a small flat-headed scarf was set. ……The fold upper scarf is tied up with the surplus silk fold. Today it is called the sorrel head and small feet. The hanging feet are slightly bent upwards, called the sky scarf. Later, there are two broad feet, short and sharp, called cattle ears and heads. The Tang Dynasty is called soft wrap. After the middle and end of the period, the one who is immersed in the footsteps, is served today. However, the system is superfluous, and it is out of people's personal interests."
The Song Dynasty just continued this kind of late Tang and Five Dynasties. Development trend, and further exaggeration.
So first of all, in terms of time, it was not invented suddenly by the emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty when he beat his thigh.
2. This is not an official hat exclusively for the Shang Dynasty
Secondly, this kind of horned head is not exclusively for officials when the Five Dynasties appeared in the late Tang Dynasty. , This is universal hat.
At that time, it was used by anyone from the emperor, the prince, to a hundred officials, and even musicians, ceremonies, guards, and actors. They can be used on many occasions. We can see from the frescoes that many guards, janitors, and servants in the Tang, Five Dynasties, Liao, Song, and Jin Dynasties used Zhantou. Naturally, it is unlikely that Zhao Kuangyin specially designed it to prevent officials.
If it is designed to prevent officials from whispering, why would the emperor himself and the servants outside also wear it? Does Song Taizu also have to prevent others from whispering to him?
▲ Daizuo Song Taizu, Song Huizong, Song Shenzong, also commonly used by emperors, even longer than officials, more powerful
▲Five Dynasties, Liao and Song mural paintings Among them, there are many guards, musicians and even servants who wear Zhanjiao heads, not for officials.
▲There are even many people working in the Dunhuang Five Dynasties murals wearing Zhanjiao heads.
Various Song Dynasty documents also record that Zhanjiaoyaotou is actually a common hat. "Song History·Yufuzhi" said "Five Dynasties gradually became flat. In the system of the dynasty, the emperor and his subjects should be flat-footed...the two feet are flat, and iron is used." This type of flat-footed head is used by the emperor and his officials. .
Shen Kuo also talked about this in "Mengxi Bi Tan", but he thinks that the hard-footed head with a skeleton was used by the emperor in the Tang Dynasty. The emperor himself liked wearing this kind of hat first, and it was used by local vassals in the late Tang Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, straight feet became a common style of noble and low: "In the Tang system, only people have to use hard feet. In the late Tang Dynasty, Fangzhen was arrogant, and began to use hard feet. The dynasty had straight feet, round feet, cross feet, Upward, downwind, all five, etc.. Only straight feet, noble and inferior.”
This kind of saying that the “lords” of the emperors of the late Tang and Five Dynasties liked to use their long feet to stretch their heads. It is very influential in the Song Dynasty. There are records in the notes of the Shao Song Dynasty:
Some of them originated from a certain monarch in the Tang and Five Dynasties. It is said that it originated from the Gaozu of the Later Han Dynasty. He was in the Bingzhou Ya School in the Later Jin Dynasty. "The head is wrapped around the head, the left and right are long, the straight is straight, no longer upturned, so far." Some regard the two corners as "dragon corners." , The head and feet of Ma Xifan, the lord of the Kingdom of Chu, "the left and right are more than a foot long, which is called the dragon's horn. If people touch it by mistake, it will cause headaches all the time."
There are a few sayings that it was invented by a court lady or an actress. Adopted by the emperor. For example, in the Tang Dynasty, the eunuch added ironBone, "Choose the priority, it's not time to wrap the mirror system as usual. Xizong loves it, and then it is made and used for the imperial"; or it is used by Zhuangzong after the Tang Dynasty for inspiration from the actors. , In order to be the same as the superior. Such as Song Zhao Yanwei's large-scale summary in "Yunlu Manchao":
"Since the mid-Tang Dynasty, the emperors have changed their two legs, round or broad, with silk strings as bones, slightly warped. The concubine has many effects, but you may wish to use a pillow.... At the end of the Tang Dynasty, since the end of the Tang Dynasty, after the Qian Fu, the eunuchs of Gong'e have used wooden heads, paper and silk as lining, copper and iron as bones, and they are worn on it. It’s a matter of urgency, it’s not time to wrap the mirror system as usual. Xizong loves it, so it is made to advance. The five emperors mostly wrap the head of the sky, and the two feet are upturned. The master of the four directions, each innovated, It may be upside down and folded back down, or like a fan of banana leaves, embracing in front. Pseudo Yushu was originally made of lacquer yarn, and Hunan Ma Xifan has two horns about two feet long, which is called dragon horns, which may be touched by humans. When the first emperor of Liu Han was promoted to the Bingzhou Ya School, he wrapped his head, left and right longer than a ruler, straight, no longer upturned, and has not changed. At the beginning of the country, the feet were not very long, and the towel was quite trendy. Before, the feet are lengthened today, and the turban is turning backwards.”
Among these statements, some say that the five emperors are happy to go to the sky, and some are used to stretch their feet. According to archaeological data, there are indeed a large number of cases of Chaotianliutou in the Five Dynasties, and the Song system also mentioned that "the monarch and his ministers should obey the flat feet, and the yu or quyan". Chengyu is the emperor, and the emperor can also wear the liutou.
Lin Lin Zongzong, no matter what you say, at least one thing can be explained. In the eyes of Song people, the feet and heads:
is not specifically designed to prevent officials from whispering.
3. It is just an exaggerated aesthetic of exposed decoration
Actually, this is just an exaggerated decorative tendency of exposed decoration.
In popular history research, we often see this situation, when a structure with actual use function is exaggerated and decorated by people because it is exposed. Once exaggerated trend started, it went out of control and developed to extremes. even broke away from the original structure function and became incomprehensible to future generations. When the development is too exaggerated and affects actual life use, it will gradually disappear.
has developed from actual structure function to highlight decoration, which is actually very common in the history of clothing development. There are many similar examples, such as “旗头” with the height of the head of Qiren women in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. Some women in Myanmar have giraffe-like collars on their necks, and European shoe tips that are more than two feet long in the Middle Ages. In fact, there is no actual function or deviated from the original actual function, which belongs to the situation where decoration gradually exaggerates and regards it as beautiful.
Descendants seem incredible. To explain this situation, they often attach a special story for a certain celebrity, which the people like to hear and spread, and even the characters attached to different versions are often different.
The long ears on both sides of the crown cap of the Song Dynasty are actually the corners of the head that originally played the role of knotting. In the long-term evolution for hundreds of years, they have gradually stiffened and become more powerful. An exaggerated decoration. When the elongated flat-angled headpiece became popular in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the Song Dynasty inherited and developed into the first server for all users.
was widely accepted and used by all strata, nationalities, and ages in the Five Dynasties, Liao, Song and Jin Dynasties. When it grows to the extreme, it objectively has a solemn and correct effect. Some notebook stories mentioned that officials were recognized because they were accustomed to wearing Zhanjiao heads and different walking movements.
In the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it became a kind of hat for official public service and was not used daily. Since was too inconvenient, it became less and less used in the Ming Dynasty and gradually disappeared.
▲The Ming Dynasty Zhanjiao head from the Kongfu Collection
▲The Ming Dynasty official uniform with the Zhanjiao head
IV. The source of legend
As for preventing whispering, it actually came from "席上腐谈" written by the people in the early Yuan Dynasty: "Song has his feet crossed, and he uses iron wires to spread it. Language.” It is believed that the flat feet play a function of avoiding “evening language” during meeting.
This statement is actually the result of later generations. From the actual effect caused by the existence of the long feet, it is assumed that its original design intention is assumed. "Over-attachment will lead to insufficient evidence", which is also evident. In the Yuan Dynasty, Zhanjiaotou was no longer in daily use, so this kind of speculation is normal.
As for the attachment to Zhao Kuangyin, it is a more recent fabricated interpretation, which should not be taken seriously.
