China has attached great importance to the wearing order of clothing since ancient times. The so-called "clothes hang down to govern the world", which is to hope that through the color of clothing, it can "distinguish the noble and the inferior and distinguish the hierarchy", regulate behavior through clothing, and stabilize the social order.
"Shi Ming·Shi Yi" records the order of dressing "The words "zhongyi" are outside the small clothes, but also among the coats." Meng Yuanlao's notebook-style essay "Tokyo Meng Hua Lu" in the Song Dynasty also records the dress order during the Huizong period: "He who sells medicine and divination all wear crowns.
As for beggars, there are also specifications. . A little slackness will be tolerated. There are hundreds of households of farmers, traders, and merchants, all wearing their own clothes, and they dare not go outside. "Due to the loosening of the hierarchical system in the Song Dynasty, the hierarchical system of clothing was no longer strictly observed by the world, and the level of clothing was no longer a symbol of hierarchical status. A situation of "disorganized clothes, confusing top and bottom" appeared. This phenomenon will be discussed in detail later, and I will not go into too much detail here.
Through the paintings handed down from the Song Dynasty, we can intuitively understand the order of women's clothing matching in the Song Dynasty. Women's daily clothing matching is mainly divided into three categories, namely, The combination of skirts and skirts, the combination of shirts and skirts and shirts and trousers, and the combination of skirts and skirts.
1. Ruqun Regular Clothing
Ruqun is the collective name for the combination of two types of clothing. It generally refers to the combination of wearing a short undershirt and a skirt. It is a typical two-piece clothing system with upper and lower skirts. According to the different collar types, underskirts can be divided into cross-neck underskirts and straight-neck underskirts; according to the height of the waistline, underskirts can also be divided into three categories: chest-length underskirts, high-waisted underskirts and waist-length underskirts.
The underskirt first appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and emerged in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. It was still women's daily wear until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. During the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, women often wore a combination of narrow-sleeved short jackets and floor-length skirts. The necklines of the jackets had cross-neck, round-neck, straight-neck and other styles, and the waistline of the skirt was significantly raised.
It is divided into two styles: high-waisted breast-covering skirts that go up to the armpits and high-waisted topless skirts that go below the chest. The styles of the skirts are mostly split-length skirts, made of five, six, seven or even twelve pieces connected and sewn together. The top is frugal and the bottom is full, and the skirt is long and touches the floor.
The women's clothing in "Pounding Practice Picture" painted by the Tang Dynasty painter Zhang Xuan is representative of the topless skirts in the prosperous Tang Dynasty..
The ladies in the painting wear high buns decorated with flower mother-of-pearl and small combs. They are all wearing undershirts and high-waisted skirts with silk strips at the waist, laces sewn at both ends, and shawls draped over the shoulders.
The colors of clothing are soft, bright but not vulgar, with vermilion, crimson , orange, yellow, grass green, etc. complementing each other. The original Song Dynasty copy of "Palace Pictures" was painted by Five Dynasties painter Zhou Wenju and depicts the daily life scenes of palace women.
The ladies in the painting all wear their hair in a high bun with a comb or a bun. They wear a double-breasted jacket with narrow sleeves, a high-waisted floor-length skirt, and a silk shawl over their shoulders. The Five Dynasties Gu Hongzhong " Han Xizai's Night Banquet " has four sections of entertainment. In the embroidered pier, the prostitutes wear a high bun, a double-breasted jacket, and a long skirt with small clusters of flowers. The skirt is tied up with ribbons, the sash is slender, and the shoulders are draped with embroidered silk. It can be seen that the waistline and tie position of the skirt in the Five Dynasties were lower than those in the Tang Dynasty.
During the Northern Song period, women's dressing style of wearing a jacket and a long skirt was relatively popular, inheriting the legacy of the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. Under the influence of the aesthetic trend of the Song Dynasty, it tended to be elegant and quiet, and the waistline gradually moved downward. Starting from as high as the chest in the early Northern Song Dynasty, it gradually dropped to the normal waistline position of the waist.
The "Four Beautiful Pictures" created by an unknown person in the Song Dynasty depicts four ladies in beautiful clothes. The faces of the characters are decorated with three white makeups. They all wear high buns and flower crowns. They wear cross-collar narrow-sleeved jackets, double-breasted singlets inside, and silk cloths with long hanging belts. The patterns on the skirts are extremely gorgeous.
"Beautiful Ladies with Makeup" painted by Song Dynasty painter Su Hanchen depicts the scene of ladies dressing up in the morning , the lady in the painting wears a pony top, inlaid with pearls and hairpins, her hair is tied with a red ribbon, she wears a narrow-sleeved long dress that drags to the ground, a narrow silk wrap around her shoulders, bracelets on her hands, bright jewelry, and a hoop around her waist, which is prohibited from walking.
In the "Picture of Tuning Parrots" painted by Wang Juzheng, a painter of the Northern Song Dynasty, we can also see the image of a lady wearing a white narrow-sleeved skirt and a silk shawl around her shoulders. It can be seen that the costumes of the characters are imitated from the old Tang Dynasty, similar to the styles of ladies in the Tang Dynasty. However, it can be seen that the cuffs of the upper skirt are narrower and thinner, the waistline of the lower skirt is lower, the overall color of the skirt is more calm and low-key, and the figure's figure is thinner than that of the Tang Dynasty, which is quite characteristic of the Song Dynasty.
2. Shirts and skirts and shirts and trousers
In the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty, the combination of women's skirts and skirts gradually disappeared , and the combination of shirts and skirts appeared. Shirts and skirts were worn more widely. They could be worn by aristocratic women in the upper class, common people in the middle and lower classes, maids, and female actors. Shirts and skirts became a more common popular clothing for women in the Song Dynasty.
Referring to the tomb murals of the Northern Song Dynasty, we can clearly see the popularity of wearing shirts and skirts in combination. This type of shirt and skirt style can be seen in the maid preparing a banquet on the mural unearthed from the Song tomb in Huaixi Village, Xingyang City, Henan Province (1094).
The maid's blouse has a straight collar and double placket style. The blouse is wide and the cuffs are tightened. The lower skirt is a pleated skirt style with a center slit in the front. In the banquet preparation picture on the southwest wall of Heishangou Mural (1097) in Dengfeng City, Henan Province, you can see a female figure wearing a short shirt and a long skirt. The short shirt has a straight collar and a double-breasted style, and the lower skirt is pleated. The skirt is slit from the front center line and open to both sides. You can vaguely see the wide-leg pants inside the skirt.
In the Southern Song Dynasty, the combination of shirts and skirts was more slim than that in the Northern Song Dynasty, and the sleeves were narrower and slimmer. This can be seen from the paintings handed down from the Song Dynasty. The anonymous " Silkworm Weaving Picture " of the Southern Song Dynasty is a copy of the silkworm weaving part of the " Farming and Weaving Picture " painted by the painter Lou Xuan during the Shaoxing period of the Southern Song Dynasty. It was annotated by Song Gaozong Empress Wu. It reflects ancient my country's farming technology and silkworm textile technology, and depicts the clothing of workers in the Song Dynasty.
In the scenes of "Second Sleep" and "Third Sleep", you can see images of working women wearing high buns and narrow-sleeved shirts. Women wear convenient spiral skirts on their lower bodies, and the overlapping parts of the skirts are clearly separated and clearly visible.
At the same time, the combination of shorts and trousers was quite popular in the Southern Song Dynasty because it was more convenient for movement. During the Southern Song Dynasty, women's bottoms underwent essential reforms. Different from the matching order of culottes and culottes in the Northern Song Dynasty, there was a phenomenon of "outerwear" dressing with trousers worn outside. The combination of shirts and trousers gradually became popular.
In the early Southern Song Dynasty, the combination of shirts and trousers with regular clothes was mostly popular among aristocratic women in the court. It is said that in the "Zhongxing Ruiying Picture" painted by Xiao Zhao of the Southern Song Dynasty, you can clearly see the image of a palace woman wearing shirts and trousers.
Xiao Zhao created the multi-volume "Rui Ying Tu", which is a fragment of the "Jinying Envoy" in the twelve-part version. It depicts the scene when Emperor Gaozong of the Song Dynasty went on an envoy to Zhao Gou, and Empress Xianren stood with all the concubines to see him off.
In the painting, the queen, surrounded by maids, wears a straight-collar cardigan with tightened cuffs and a light yellow collar . She wears a light-colored "one-line" tube top and plain white crotch pants, with the dividing line of the trouser legs clearly visible.
Beside him, the two petite maids with double buns were wearing matching cardigans, light-colored crotch pants, and aprons around their waists. It is worth noting that the maid behind the queen wearing a bun is also wearing a straight-collar cardigan, but she is wearing a pleated skirt instead of crotch pants.
Naideweng of the Southern Song Dynasty recorded three levels of attire for riding activities of prostitutes in the Song Dynasty in "Capital Records": "The first-class wearers wear special bun coats, the second-class wearers wear crowns and crotch pants, and the third-class wears crowns and crotch pants."" It can be seen that in the Southern Song Dynasty, skirts were still more popular than trousers.
In this painting, the venerable man wears shirts and trousers and the waiters wear shirts and skirts. It can be seen how popular shirts and trousers were among the aristocratic class in the early Southern Song Dynasty. People were more interested in the emergence of new things. The popularity of clothing has gone beyond tradition, and clothing matching has become confusing. It has subverted the meaning of traditional clothing form and hierarchy. It can also be seen that the concept of clothing hierarchy in the early Southern Song Dynasty was gradually disintegrating. In the later period, the fashion of trousers and trousers became popular among all classes in the Song Dynasty, and images of women in trousers and trousers could also be seen among the common people. " Skeleton Fantasy Picture" painted by Li Song of the Southern Song Dynasty Palace Painting Academy, depicts the life of puppet artists in the Song Dynasty, traveling with their families in the streets and alleys, performing their skills everywhere.
This painting is unprecedented in the history of Chinese painting. Ancient and modern interpretations of this painting mostly believe that Li Song represents a surreal scene. The big skeleton and the small skeleton in the painting are an illustration of the outlook on life.
The skeleton sitting on the ground on the left side of the screen is the most conspicuous. It seems to be a salesman, holding a small skeleton hanging with one hand. Sitting behind him is his wife, with a nursing infant son in her arms. There are two characters on the right side of the picture. A child lying on the ground seemed to be attracted by the small skeleton and stretched out his little hand towards it; behind him, a young woman stretched out her hands as if to take care of the child.
The young woman is wearing a narrow-sleeved cardigan and trousers with side slits. The trousers are wide-legged and have a flared opening. Generally speaking, the popularity of shirts and trousers is mainly concentrated on During the Southern Song Dynasty, it was mainly popular among upper-class aristocratic women in the early Southern Song Dynasty. It gradually became popular among all social classes in the middle and late Southern Song Dynasty and became the main category of women's casual wear in the Song Dynasty.
The combination of shirts and skirts and shirts and trousers was frequently used in the lives of women in the Song Dynasty. The matching order can be summarized into three levels, namely the inner layer, the middle layer and the outer layer. The inner layer mainly includes tube tops, belly wraps, and crotch pants that are worn throughout the four seasons; the middle layer and outer layer gradually increase in clothing layers as the seasons change. Li Qingzhao " Bodhisattva Man" once pointed out that in early spring, women wear light jackets, "The wind is soft, the sun is thin, and spring is still early, and the jacket is in a good mood." "
Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Mi " Wulin Old Stories " records that on the day of the "Giving Clothes Festival" "the imperial robes were brought in before the emperor. From the situation of ministers wearing brocade jackets and official uniforms", we can see that people in the Song Dynasty would wear jackets to keep out the cold in winter. As can be seen from the above, the combination of shirts, skirts and shirts and trousers can be divided into two layers in summer, that is, a single shirt with a tube top underneath, and a long skirt or trousers with a crotch lining underneath. pants.
Spring and autumn can be roughly divided into four layers. On the basis of summer, jackets and jackets are added to the tops, and single pants or pants are added to the bottoms. In winter, there are generally four to five layers, or even more. On the basis of spring and autumn, cotton jackets and cotton trousers are added, and single shirts and single trousers are no longer used.
Conclusion
During the Song Dynasty , women's skirts and skirts became popular in the lives of upper-class women from the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty. The class distinction in the Northern Song Dynasty changed to the uniform uniforms in the Southern Song Dynasty. The trajectory of the skirt shape and style gradually changed from the loose and comfortable style in the Northern Song Dynasty to the narrow and slim fit in the Southern Song Dynasty. Skirt skirts became more "convenient and convenient".
This matching method gradually replaced wearing a skirt , the way of wearing and silk has become a typical attire unique to women in the Song Dynasty.
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