How to distinguish flying fish suit and python robe? Looking at the culture of flying fish costumes in Ming Dynasty from ancient costume dramas such as "Xiuchundao"

People who love the clothing culture of the Ming Dynasty almost have a common wish: one day they can "walk around" outside in a handsome flying fish costume. Even though many people are not well versed in culture, they have watched a lot of Ming Dynasty film and television dramas, and they are gradually attracted by Feiyufu.

I myself belong to the latter. In the early years, I was not very proficient in ancient Chinese costume culture. Later, after watching a lot of costume dramas, I gradually fell in love with flying fish costumes. But it is not enough to just like this kind of clothing, it is more important to understand this kind of clothing culture. Today, I will talk about the culture of flying fish clothes in the Ming Dynasty based on the ancient costume film and television dramas of our country.

Stills of "Embroidered Spring Knife"

Is there really a "fish" on the flying fish suit? Why is the dragon painted on the flying fish suit?

Flying fish clothing, many people must think that fish is embroidered on the flying fish clothing. However, if you take a few pictures from the Internet, or carefully observe some stills from TV series and movies, you will find that there is no fish on the flying fish suit, but a "dragon" embroidered.

But many flying fish clothing enthusiasts actually overlooked one point: the early flying fish clothing actually had double wings.

The wings on the flying fish suit

You may also know that the flying fish suit is very similar to the python robe, which is almost difficult to distinguish. However, early flying fish suits were easier to distinguish because of the presence of double wings.

However, because of the higher status of the python robe, the flying fish suit moves towards the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the more its style moves towards the shape of the python robe. If you don’t look carefully, it’s really hard to find which one is a python robe and which one is a flying fish suit.

Regarding the python robe, I wrote in an article in great detail before: The python robe worn by Zhang Fengyi in "Jiangshan Ji" restores the history? Basically restored, but mixed with modern aesthetics

Therefore, compared with the python robe, the later flying fish clothing can only be distinguished from the tail. For example, in this fragrant horse and flying fish costume from the Confucian House, the "fish" tail is very obvious.

Ming Dynasty fragrant horse-mafei fish clothes

also have fish tails that are not so obvious, such as this single gauze robe with red flying fish pattern in the Ming Dynasty, which was previously collected by Kongfu. , There is almost no difference with the python robe.

Then how to distinguish it is a flying fish suit or a python robe?

Ming Dynasty red ground flying fish pattern single yarn robe

is actually very simple: find the decorated tail and see if it is a dragon tail or a fish tail. If it is a fishtail, it is a flying fish suit.

Under normal circumstances, the fish tail of the flying fish suit looks like this:

The fish tail on the flying fish suit

And the "python" tail of the python robe in the old collection of Kongfu, It is almost the same as the dragon tail on the dragon robe.

The python on the python robe is the dragon tail

Therefore, from the appearance, it is difficult to distinguish the python robe and the flying fish suit, but when we grasp these details, it is easy to distinguish Which one is a python robe and which one is a flying fish suit.

Especially now many places on the Internet are selling flying fish clothing, but to be honest, many flying fish clothing are wrong. On the surface it seems to look good, but there are problems with the details and cannot withstand scrutiny.

It has to be said that domestic film and television dramas have made a lot of contributions to the popularization of flying fish clothes, but there are also many problems.

There is a particularly interesting phenomenon, I don’t know if you have discovered it-that is In many costume dramas, even if the emperor’s dragon robe is wrong, and the official’s official uniform is wrong, the flying fish costumes of Jin Yiwei and Dongchang are generally still made in appearance.

Stills of "Daming Jinyiwei"

For example, this "Daming Jinyiwei", although there is a little bit of flying fish clothes, but overall it is stillThere is no special exception, and the passing score is also up.

For another example, in the first part of "Xiu Chun Dao", the crimson official clothes worn by Emperor Chongzhen when he left the factory, in fact, the hat was wrong.

Emperor Chongzhen’s hat is wrong

However, this does not affect anything. Because the "historical contribution" of this movie back then was that it promoted the culture of flying fish clothes to the whole country at once, which caused a huge response.

For many Hanfu lovers, the first part of "Xiuchundao" can be said to be their own "teacher" of flying fish clothing enlightenment. Many people know and fall in love with flying fish clothes because of this movie.

Before "Xiu Chun Dao", it is estimated that most people thought that this kind of clothing was the standard equipment of the Dongchang eunuchs and belonged to the eunuchs' uniforms. For example, in "The New Dragon Inn", the flying fish suit is accompanied by Donnie Yen and others domineering debut:

"New Dragon Inn" stills

In Chen Kun’s movie "The Flying Sword of Dragon Gate", the eunuchs of the East Factory, who are mainly Chen Kun, are still all flying fish suits:

"Long Gate Flying Sword" stills

So, In the early years, it is estimated that many people are a little suspicious of life when they see this scene: why do such beautiful clothes appear on the eunuch?

Because of this, the appearance of "Xiu Chun Dao" is precious.

As soon as this movie appeared, a nationwide Hanfu discussion was formed immediately, and many people have also embarked on the broad road of Hanfu fans or flying fish clothes fans.

Stills of "Embroidered Spring Knife"

The flying fish suits in this movie are mainly black, and several white flying fish suits have also appeared.

白飞鱼服

But we can actually see from the stills, and we can also find many errors in our current research and comparison.

For example, the flying fish suit worn by Wang Qianyuan has some problems on the skirt.

According to my observation, flying fish suits are similar to python gowns, and are generally divided into two types: round collar and cross collar. Python gowns have more round necks, and flying fish suits are mainly collared.

If it is a cross-collar, the placket will be the same as other cross-collar Hanfu, there will be particularly obvious "blank":

Note the neckline placket

And Wang Qianyuan’s this This is not the case. On the contrary, the ornamentation on this dress extends from the center of the dress to the neckline.

At present, there is probably something wrong.

can compare and distinguish

You might say: No, that's not right, isn't that the red flying fish suit you sent just now?

is actually not, this red one is actually a round-neck flying fish suit. I personally think that because of the shooting, the costumes give us the feeling of handing over. If we compare this python robe, we can intuitively draw the conclusion that I just said:

圆领蛇衣

This is what I want to talk about, about the film and television drama The first common mistake of flying fish clothes.

The second common mistake is that there is a problem with the "water feet" of the flying fish suit.

The so-called water feet are the patterns in the middle of the skirts of the flying fish suit and python robe. This layer of ornamentation contains elements such as "python" or "flying fish", and there are also some wave patterns at the bottom:

飞鱼服的水脚

So, if you find Some movies and TV shows, or the flying fish clothing in some stores that sell flying fish clothing, showIf something similar to this appears, then this flying fish suit must be wrong.

Wrong water feet

In the "Xiu Chun Dao" to the film and television series, some flying fish suits directly omit the "water feet" part.

Indeed, whether it is a python robe or flying fish clothing, many cultural relics without water feet have been unearthed, but in general, most flying fish clothing have water feet.

The flying fish suit in "Embroidered Spring Knife" has no feet

There are also some flying fish suits in the movie that have their feet moved down and are at the bottom of the skirt. This is also wrong. Under normal circumstances, only the water feet of the python robe of the Qing Dynasty may appear at the bottom of the skirt:

The water feet of the Qing Dynasty clothing will also appear at the bottom of the skirt

So, we Now I look back and believe that in "New Dragon Inn", the flying fish suit worn by Donnie Yen not only has feet, but also the restoring degree of other patterns is quite high.

But when the movie was released, we had not understood the importance of costumes to a movie. Also because of what I said before, almost all eunuchs are wearing flying fish clothes, so many people really "cannot fall in love" with this kind of clothes.

Donnie Yen’s feet are right

But when we go back to this old movie now, we will find that the costumes inside are still more exquisite. Including what I said in an article before, the net towel appeared in this movie. This is relatively rare.

But there are also errors. For example, the hat on Yen Zidan's head has a cap. But in contrast, these errors in details cannot conceal the beauty of the film’s "ancient style".

Although not everyone can wear flying fish clothes in the Ming Dynasty, fortunately, we can now have

In the Ming Dynasty, flying fish clothes are second only to python robes, generally second A gift from a high-ranking member. In the late Ming Dynasty, flying fish clothing became more widespread, so low-level officials also had the opportunity to wear them.

Therefore, Jinyiwei's middle and high-level officials also have the opportunity to wear flying fish suits or bullfighting suits, or even python robes. This kind of scene, this kind of grand occasion, we can see it from many costume dramas now.

Portraits of Ming officials wearing python robes

But in general, this kind of clothing was worn by only a few people in ancient times.

But today, the flying fish clothing that exists as a hierarchy has already existed as a culture. Therefore, no matter who it is, as long as they like it, even if they rent one, they will have the opportunity to be qualified to wear it, be handsome, and promote traditional culture by the way.

"Flying Fish Service" in the subway station

I personally think this is a very good phenomenon.

Our country has a very rich cultural heritage, but due to historical relations, Han clothing has been weak in the past four hundred years. Not only do many people do not know Hanfu, but even if you are walking on the street wearing Hanfu, many people will think you It's a "neuropathy".

Even this year, an even stranger thing happened: two students in a college in Hebei were wearing Hanfu at school. The counselor felt that they had "mental problems" and threatened them to be dropped out of school if they didn't change their clothes.

Weibo screenshot

Now college counselors are generally postgraduates. Graduate students still don’t understand Hanfu or the culture of Hanfu. So, looking at the whole country, people’s prejudice against Hanfu can be Think about it.

Therefore, for fans of Hanfu clothing or flying fish clothing, it is not enough to just like them, but also to understand the culture behind these costumes-at least learn to distinguish between what is right and what is Incorrect. Otherwise, the first person you like won't understand, so how do you beg others to understand?

Do you want to take a photo like this?

Of course, the Ming Dynasty costume drama is very important to spread the Ming Dynasty Feiyufu culture and even the Hanfu culture.

So I not only hope that more Hanfu fans will join hands and continue to work hard, but also hope that Chinese directors can grow their hearts and spend more time on costumes.

It’s okay to shoot bad dramas. "Ming Fei Biography" is bad, but from a cultural point of view, I believe it has left a name in Chinese film history.