I have complained about the dragon robe of Song Zhenzong in "The Great Song Palace Ci": Obviously there are portraits of the Song Dynasty emperor's uniforms as a reference, but why I have to "self-reliance" and "independent innovation" to come up with a set of four differences What?
Actually, after I think about it carefully, I personally feel that the director has half the responsibility for this matter, and the Qing Dynasty people still have to bear the other half.
You may be a little surprised: the dragon robe in "Dong Gong Ci" is wrong, why should the Qing Dynasty take half the responsibility? Don't worry, and listen to me carefully.
The Song Dynasty dragon robe is different from other dynasties: it is not luxurious, and its style is quite different from other dynasties
In ancient China, early The emperors, what we are most familiar with is the image of wearing Dagon Mianfu. For example, I have been recommending the famous painting "Emperor Picture of Past Dynasties" by Yan Liben of the Tang Dynasty recently. In this picture, the early emperors of China almost wore Dagon Mian clothes:
"Emperor Picture" Part
Therefore, the Hanwu of the Qin Emperor we see in the film and television drama, including the later emperors such as Liu Bei, Cao Cao, Sun Quan and even Liu Chan, are all images of Dagon Mianfu.
Qin Shihuang
Liu Chan in the old version of "Three Kingdoms"
The other is mainly based on the Tang and Ming dynasties Round neck group dragon robe. The main features of this type of dragon robe are: first, the neckline is round; second, the dragon robe is embroidered with dragon patterns; third, it is usually accompanied by a black moo (the hat on the top).
For example, the "Portrait of Tang Taizong Hanging Scroll" now collected in the National Palace Museum in Taipei, is such an image:
"Portrait of Tang Taizong Hanging Scroll"
We are more familiar with it. The image of the emperors of the Ming Dynasty, such as the Ming Yingzong Zhu Zhanji, who is also collected in the National Palace Museum in Taipei, has a portrait like this:
朱 Zhanji portrait
Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang and Chengzu Zhu Di In fact, there are similar portraits in the world:
Zhu Yuanzhang (right) and Zhu Di (left)
The dragon robes between Tang Ming are in the same line, and the degree of similarity between them is very similar. Big. Including the dragon robe of the middle and late Ming Dynasty, it did not deviate from the regulations of the early Ming Dynasty, but added the twelve chapter pattern on this basis.
Another one of our most common dragon robe is the yellow dragon robe of the Qing Dynasty. This kind of dragon robe actually inherited the style of the Ming Dynasty dragon robe, but the neckline has been changed a lot, and the hat has also been changed from the top to the red "Temple of Heaven" hat:
康熙写真
I have said so much, in fact, I just want to explain that in our impression, the dragon robe is either a black Dagon Mian suit or a Dagon dragon robe embroidered with a dragon.
However, the dragon robe of the Song Dynasty emperor is completely different from other dynasties in history: it is more simple, without any modification, so simple that it is almost the same as the costumes of the ministers. The emperor's hat is also very strange. The two long "hard feet" shaped the emperor's hat into an "aircraft head".
Portrait of the Emperor of the Song Dynasty
There is another dragon robe in the Song Dynasty: the emperor wears a red dragon robe with a square heart and a crown of heaven.
Compared with dragon robes of other dynasties, this dress is also very strange. In terms of status, its status is close to that of the Gunmian costumes of other dynasties, and it is usually worn by the emperor on more important occasions; but in terms of style, the style of this costume is completely different from that of other dynasties:
Song Dynasty Emperor's Tongtian Crown Clothes
Therefore, the historical drama of the Song Dynasty is the "severe disaster area", and the frequent mistakes of dragon robe are normal.
The two chapters of pictures I released above, I guess everyone will find it very strange. Why is it strange? Because it's rare.
Indeed, I don’t see much. For example, in the TV series "Emperor Zhao Kuangyin of the Song Dynasty", the robe worn by Zhao Kuangyin looks like this:
Stills of the "Emperor Zhao Kuangyin of the Song Dynasty"
Many of my previous articles The article has mentioned what kind of clothes the emperor of the Song Dynasty will wear. You will find that Zhao Kuangyin's dragon robe in this play is really wrong.
In the TV series "Ask You How Sorrowful", for plot needs, the dragon robe of Li Yu, the queen of Tang Dynasty, is mainly in bright colors such as yellow and white, while Zhao Kuangyin wears a black dragon robe ：
Stills from "Ask You How Sorrowful"
The design of the dragon robe of this show is not bad, although it does not conform to the historical facts, but at least it looks good in style. This is a more conscientious design in the era when film and television dramas did not pay attention to clothing.
Is there a design conscience that is closer to historical facts?
of course there is. For example, in the "Jing Zhong Yue Fei" starring Huang Xiaoming who has been complained a few years ago, the clothes worn by Song Gaozong Zhao Gou are more in line with history:
"Jing Zhong Yue Fei" stills
老版 "Water Margin" is also remarkable:
The old version of "Water Margin" stills
Of course, the dragon robes of these two shows are flawed. For example, there is a dragon pattern on the dragon robe, which is actually wrong.
The old version of "Water Margin" Song Huizong also lacked a square heart collar on his clothes.
Does it fit the history completely? Yes, but it hasn't been released yet-I have spent several articles to praise this show. Its name is "Lonely City Closed":
"孤城关" Stills
In modern film and television dramas, Song Dynasty dragon robes frequently make mistakes. In the final analysis, this pot of Qing Dynasty people have to back half
Why do Song Dynasty dragon robes often make mistakes? I have already said: Compared with other dynasties, the dragon robe of the Song Dynasty is a bit special.
But, in fact, the people of the Qing Dynasty also caused a lot of trouble for our contemporary people when shooting historical dramas about the Song Dynasty.
For example, in "Jing Zhong Yue Fei", Zhao Gou's costume is not only the Tongtian crown suit just now, but also the Gunlong suit:
"Jingzhong Yuefei" stills
Dragon robes were more popular in the Tang and Ming dynasties, but emperors of the Song Dynasty generally did not have such robes.
I also mentioned before that only the Huizong Dynasty and the late Southern Song Dynasty, the Song Dynasty royal family will embroider some patterns on their clothes. Under normal circumstances, people in the Song Dynasty did not engage in these bells and whistles on their clothes.
Why? Because the Song Dynasty advocated simplicity, these things on clothes were too vulgar.
But why can the director of this show connect with Tianguanfu, such a rare dress, that there is a problem with the emperor's daily dress? Because of the Qing Dynasty!
Zhao Kuangyin portrait
For example, this painting is actually painted by ancient people, not by contemporary people. In this painting, Song Taizu Zhao Kuangyin wears a Tuanlong robe with dragon patterns, or you can call it a Dagon dragon robe.
Obviously, if you take this painting as a reference, then Zhao Gou's costume in the show "Jing Zhong Yue Fei" is correct.
But many people here have overlooked a question: Although this painting was painted by ancient people, is it painted by people from the Song Dynasty?
Feiye. Many similar paintings were painted by people in the Qing Dynasty. For example, for Song Zhenzong, the portrait we are most familiar with is the "Song Zhenzong Yurong" currently in the National Palace Museum in Taipei:
宋真宗照片
In this painting, Song Zhenzong, like most other Song emperors, wore a square top and a red dragon robe.
However, in many books, when the author introduced Song Zhenzong, he quoted this painting:
Qingren painted Song Zhenzong
These two paintings The difference in the painting is that there is no decoration on the dragon robe of the former, while the dragon robe of the latter has more dragon patterns on the shoulders and chest. This painting is a typical Qing work.
Of course, not only did the emperors’ costumes be mistaken by the Qing dynasty, but in fact, many Song dynasty officials’ costumes were also mistaken by the Qing dynasty. For example, the image of Bao Zheng in the film and television series is like this:
包征
Here, Bao Zheng is wearing a golden python robe and looks very domineering. This image is now deeply rooted in people's hearts and has become the memory of many people.
actually comes from the image of Bao Zheng in Peking Opera:
包征
in Beijing Opera So, in fact, this image was also created by the Qing Dynasty.
In the image of Bao Zheng portrayed by people in the Qing Dynasty, Bao Zheng always wore a python robe. Other civil servants or emperors, no matter what dynasty, as long as the Qing Dynasty painted him, they usually wear a python robe. Or Dagon Longfu.
Why is this happening? For the people of the Qing Dynasty, Han costumes have long disappeared, so the only memory in their minds is the costumes of the Ming Dynasty.
The Tang and Song Dynasties are too far apart. It is difficult for the people of Qing Dynasty to verify the costumes. The Ming and Qing Dynasties changed the Chinese costume even more. What the humanist painters of the Qing Dynasty can do is to entrust them to the portraits and opera images of "ancient people" with the only memory.
The new version of "Bao Zheng" dress is also wrong
When we read history and watch dramas, it is important to understand simple textual research and distinction
清朝的Painting has caused a lot of trouble for many people in restoring ancient costumes.
However, I have actually summarized some characteristics of Qing Dynasty paintings for you just now: First, if people in Qing Dynasty painted portraits of Song emperors or ministers of civil and military affairs, their clothes must have very prominent patterns. This kind of decoration is generally taken from Ming Dynasty costumes.
Zhao Kuangyin portrait
Therefore, this portrait of Zhao Kuangyin is also wrong.
Secondly, the "ancient" painted by people in the Qing Dynasty often have a cap on the hat. For example, this painting by Zhu Yuanzhang is 100% painted by Qing dynasty:
朱元璋写真
Do we know what is the use of distinguishing these? Saying it's useless, of course it's useless. Said useful, naturally useful.
I think this distinguishing ability represents a kind of cultural cultivation and represents a kind of aesthetics. If you master this aesthetic, you will find many interesting things in the process of watching TV.
When you find some mistakes, you can actually tell your children or friends the truth. This is a very meaningful and interesting thing. Over time, there will be more people who understand culture and history around us.
But recently I still encountered a lot of "strokes". For example, in the previous article about "The Great Song Palace Ci", many people commented after reading the title:
I don’t know if everyone has discovered the reforms of the country, as small as individuals or small To a small matter, when we are chasing progress, there are always some people who not only choose to stay in place, but also try to hinder others' progress.
When some people look up at the starry sky and look forward to a better future, there are always some people nearby with a cold smile: "I don’t have anything to do!"
Although we are watching a drama now, yes We are discussing some unimportant clothing issues that will not have any impact on our lives. However, in the long run, if the thinking, concepts and even mentality of Chinese people want to make progress and avoid being frogs at the bottom of the well, we should start with small things.
Start with small changes.
