香云纱, as beautiful as its name, will make a rustling sound when swaying with the wind, giving people a fresh and beautiful feeling in the windy days.
In fact, Xiangyunsha cheongsam is "dyed out of silt, and blooms in the scorching sun". It needs sunlight and soil to accomplish its achievements. It is the only silk fabric made by hand with plant dyes in the world. The process is extremely complicated, the production takes a long time, the technology is difficult, and it is highly dependent on natural conditions.
Characteristics of Xiangyunsha cheongsam
Xiangyunsha, whose real name is liáng yarn, is an ancient dyed fabric in the Lingnan area. It will rustle as it walks. , Named "Xiangyunsha", later called "Xiangyunsha".
Fragrant cloud yarn has the characteristics of cool and pleasant, easy to wash and dry, deep color and dirt-resistant, non-stick to the skin, light and thin, not easy to wrinkle, soft and full of bones. Wearing is smooth, cool, sterilizing, repelling insects, and has the characteristics of health care for the skin. After wearing, the coating slowly peels off to reveal the brown-yellow background. It used to be called "soft gold".
Xiangyunsha clothes need to be worn frequently, and the sweat of the body reacts with them, making them softer as they are worn. The cracks caused by wearing xiangyun yarn will disappear.
There was also a traditional custom in the past. The rich bought back the fragrant cloud yarn clothing for the servants to wear, and then wear it for a while. This is due to the material and production method of the xiangyun yarn itself, which makes the new xiangyun yarn garment fiber thicker and uncomfortable to wear; while the xiangyun yarn after a period of time will become soft. How is such a wonderful Xiangyun yarn made?
The craftsmanship of fragrant cloud yarn
——The "10,000 two gold" stained from the soil
The precious thing about Xiangyun yarn is that it is spread Hundreds of years of traditional craftsmanship. The ancients summed it up as "three steaming, nine boiling and eighteen drying", which is the dyeing and finishing part of Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing process. In 2008, it was selected as a national intangible cultural heritage. With the passage of time, this kind of clothing that can reveal the natural beauty of women has become extremely rare.
Fragrant cloud yarn, also known as liáng yarn. The dyeing material is yam ranunculus. This common plant in Guangdong and Guangxi can be dyed by squeezing its roots and stems.
Dip the gauze into the red-brown yam buttercup juice. After dozens of times, the white fabric will be dyed red-brown.
On the flat turf, expose the gauze until the dry gauze is stretched straight, and press the bamboo pole to make the sun shine more evenly. The heat of the sun makes the yam sap evaporate upwards, and finally the pigment stays on the surface to create the deep and light color of the fragrant cloud yarn.
Few other fabrics are like crowfoot silk, which needs sunlight and soil like crops. There are no two pieces of crowfoot or silk.
All processes are done manually by workers, quality control is based solely on the experience of "masters", and output is determined by the sun. The reason why Xiangyun yarn is precious is that it depends on the weather. Sunlight, soil, herbs, river water, every factor affects the quality of the finished product, and it is in the true sense-rare, natural, gorgeous, and precious.
Every tanning worker will cherish the drying yard very much
unveil the history of fragrant cloud yarn
◢As early as the Compendium of Materia Medica "There is a record: "Zhekui Fujian people use it in the dyeing jar, and the cloud is easy to color." Zhekui is yam.
◢ During the Ming Yongle period, Guangdong began to export fragrant cloud yarn. From then to the beginning of the 20th century, for hundreds of years, XiangyunYarn has always been produced by folk handwork.
◢During the Daoguang Period of Qing Dynasty (1821～1850), Nanhai began to weave silk.
◢During the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty (1862～1874), the handicraft production of sun cloth began to prevail in Qiao Town, Panyu City.
◢During the Republic of China, fragrant cloud yarn was once popular. Old Shanghai also gave it a nice name "Xiang Yan Sha". It is a fashionable dress material for women.
In the era of curvy cheongsam everywhere, the fragrant cloud yarn is deep and elegant, and the cheongsam is subtle and soft. The encounter between the two has achieved many women's pursuit of beauty in the old age.
Headed by the three sisters of the Song family, Xiangyun gauze cheongsam became an indispensable presence in women’s wardrobes during the Republic of China. Soong Ching Ling said that girls should be able to dress themselves.
She has a favorite cheongsam: stand-up collar, short sleeves, right gusset, black, 130 cm long, 85 cm wide, lower slits, hand-stitched .
In her later years, Soong Ching Ling even gradually became blessed with her body. She spliced and enlarged her favorite fragrant cloud yarn cheongsam before continuing to wear it. This piece of fragrant cloud gauze cheongsam has also been permanently collected in the former residence of Soong Ching Ling in Shanghai.
Zhang Ailing is also very fond of Xiangyunsha, and she has mentioned showing Xiangyunsha in her works many times.
The back of that person is clearly visible in the moonlight, wearing a white summer cloth shirt and black fragrant cloud yarn pants. "
-" Burnt • First Incense "
English as well as her original" Chinese people's life and fashion "with the fashion map where there are fragrant cloud The appearance of the yarn.
"Qiqiao is wearing a white fragrant cloud gauze shirt and a black dress, but her face is like rouge, from the rubbed red eye circles to the hot cheekbones. "
——"Golden Lock"
Zhang Ailing is very particular about the styles and materials of the clothes, and even makes some designs by herself. The clothes she designs are bright, bright and bright. Shocking the world. Aloof like her, never disdain to follow the crowd. As Hu Lancheng said, whenever there is a word, one thing, about Zhang Ailing, it will be good.
The clothes she wrote in the novel are also the portrayal of society at that time. The upper class and wealthy wives would choose to wear. It shows the status of Xiangyun gauze cheongsam in the Republic of China.
"Seven gentlemen Shi Liang, the only woman in ", is also a fan of Xiangyunsha.
And in Bingxin's writing, Xiangyunsha has become the best carrier of tender memories for her mother-"Mother wears a set The clothes of cyan fragrant cloud yarn, about fifty years old, look amiable, and the attitude of talking to her is like love and pity, but also like reprimand. "In Bing Xin's writing, Xiangyun yarn is the best material to match the gentle femininity, and conveys an emotional tenderness.
Now, because of the TV series "Strategy of Yanxi Palace" The hot gray tones are Morandi colors. The reason is that the costumes worn by the characters in the play are also made of fragrant cloud yarn.
This piece of Emperor Qianlong in the play The regular clothes are made of fragrant cloud yarn. This cool color system, unsaturated and cold visual experience is particularly impressive.
香云纱的Washing and maintenance
Fragrant cloud yarn cheongsam is suitable for hanging and storing, not suitable for folding and pressing on other clothingthe following.
Fragrant cloud yarn is most afraid of being squeezed and twisted. Be careful not to let it get rubbed. Simple manual washing can basically wash it clean.
Dry the reverse side when drying, do not expose to the sun or direct sunlight (to avoid yellowing, discoloration and embrittlement of the clothing); can be folded into squares to squeeze the water, then shake straight with water, spread flat and dry in the shade, avoid hanging on a hanger Let dry to prevent deformation.
Cannot use washing machine to wash Xiangyun yarn clothes. Wash by hand in cold water, add an appropriate amount of softener to the water, and hang it to dry in the shade after rinsing.
Do not spray perfume, deodorant, etc. on the surface of the cheongsam, and do not put it with mothballs during storage to avoid discoloration.
Different colors should be washed separately. Do not mix with other clothes to avoid color mixing or pollution.
Steam medium temperature ironing. The soleplate of the iron should not be in direct contact with the surface of the cheongsam. It must be 1 cm away from the surface of the cheongsam to avoid wrinkles and shine.
Fragrant cloud yarn is made of gorgeous materials, and the pattern is often more luxurious. Coupled with the old craftsmanship, no matter how gorgeous the pattern is on the cheongsam, it will not make people feel too vulgar, but it is more gorgeous and noble.~
This piece of fragrant cloud yarn, under the calm blue background, has a rust-red flower pattern, which is exceptionally protruding, quiet and elegant, this group of colors has a special fair complexion, gentle and dignified~
Speaking of Xiangyun Sha, it seems that people can travel through time and space, and I can't help but imagine: The Republican woman wearing Xiangyun Sha cheongsam is slim, walking through ancient alleys, today wearing Xiang Yun Sha Qipao, relives the old dream of the Republic of China.
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(Pictures and texts are selected from the Internet, the copyright belongs to the original.)
