"I am Queen on the waves! You must be domineering. This wave is mine, and I must catch it."
surfing is an interesting and particularly stimulating exercise. In China, there are not many people who dare to play, and even fewer people can play at the best.
However, there are always people who are willing to eat crabs and they taste it.
This domineering goddess born in the 1985 is named Monica, her Chinese name is Guo Shujuan, and her nickname is from Yangshuo, Guangxi. Chinese female surfing top player .
Since 2008, it has been involved in surfing in many countries so far, winning the
Before she learned to surf, she was a typical white-collar worker with fair skin and beautiful appearance, first-class figure, high heels and bags filled the room, and she had to appear in the office beautifully every day. In her own words, she was young and frivolous.
The young blood is always boiling. It is not a passionate life. It always makes people feel that something is missing. Until they accidentally saw a movie "Blue Passion", which completely changed her destiny.
The blue sea is like a blue sky, with white waves rolling, and there is a strong figure on each wave, which arouses the yearning of Monica, the inland girl. It turns out that someone can really come on the waves.
"Since I started to come into contact with surfing in 2008, I fell in love with it until now."
passion suddenly burned, and the goal has never been so clear. She wants to go to the beach to learn surfing .
At first, she just regarded it as a hobby, and even she herself didn't expect that she would become addicted while playing.
At that time, there was no systematic surfing organization in China, and it was difficult to find a coach in this area, so at the beginning, she struggled to explore it herself.
by chance went abroad to participate in the competition, and she saw the gap between Chinese players and other players.
At that time, surfing abroad had already had a deep foundation, but China was just starting out.
's desire to develop surfing suddenly spread in her heart. Since they have already played, why can't they play better?
Monica no longer has the attitude of playing the game, but listens to the heart and takes this extreme sport more seriously.
She enjoys the pleasure brought by surfing more and more. She often gets up at five or six in the morning, wears a bikini, drags flip-flops, holds a surfboard and runs to the beach just to catch the waves that come with the sunrise before work.
At that time, the temperature of the sea water was very "freezing", but the domineering goddess just felt that it was not enough and she wished the waves would "come more violently".
"After surfing, the whole person's mentality will become very relaxed and broad. Because when you stay in the sea, you will feel that you are very small, so there are no big troubles that cannot be overcome. Secondly, you become more focused, because you will not be able to rush through a little distraction."
The injuries, hardships and fatigue that have been suffered all dissipated in an instant when you walk alongside the waves. There is nothing else that can make her happier .
Later, because of frequent conflicts between work and training, she simply quit her job and began to develop into a professional surfer. She occasionally went to other countries to participate in competitions. Her scores of are getting more and more gratifying and have gained more and more recognition.
originally proud of her white skin gradually turned into wheat color. A hundred beautiful skirts were pressed against the bottom of the box and the light of the sky was gone. The high heels in the room were covered with dust...
She paid a lot for surfing, but she never regretted it.
Not long ago, photography master Yasumasa Yonehara also invited Monica to surf and shoot on the coast of Kamakura, Japan. Under his camera, everything about Monica seems so natural and real.
exercise is not just exclusive to boys. As it turns out, girls can also do a good job and win glory for the country.
In Monica's heart, surfing brings her far more than she has lost. Healthy, happy, a better and better figure, a group of like-minded "family", these have become wealth, accumulated in life, shining.
"What surfing brings me is not only a happy mood every day, but more importantly, it will always be in my life and move forward with me!"
for the rest of my life, do something, go through a thousand miles, and the original intention remains unchanged.