Author: Fish swimming towards the blue sky
If the true meaning of food is "not eating from time to time", then travel should also be "not swimming from time to time". Guangdong in winter lacks the beautiful scenery of the changing seasons, and the distant Heilongjiang coincides with the season of the year that is suitable for fun - the world of ice and snow.
From Shenzhen at 20 degrees above zero to Harbin at 20 degrees below zero, a 4.5-hour plane traveled through early autumn and cold winter. I sigh at the vast territory of the motherland, and you can enjoy the scenery of the four seasons even in winter.
A few days later, I sat at my desk at home. The excitement of travel was still dissipated, mixed with a little fatigue. I could not wait to write down my experience of this trip. This is my favorite part. I turned on the computer and seemed to have visited again.
, the old rules are still divided into three parts: food, accommodation and transportation. None of them can be missed. Let’s start with the industry.
Beautiful scenery
Walk along the Songhua River
Walk along the Songhua River
The frozen Songhua River ice layer in winter can reach dozens of meters thick, making it a natural playground for people.
Walking along the riverside, I needed to take measures to prevent cold. I met a cheerful Northeastern brother. While we were talking, the water mist rose and the eyelashes became ice.
The white Songhua River surface has a velvety texture. In the trance of the sunset, it is already ambiguous with the daytime. The cold and warm colors have lost their boundaries, becoming the gentle background of the Songhua River.
Street lights lit up at 4 pm, and the winter night in Northeast China came so unexpectedly. The warm orange light source is full of deception, and it is more than minus twenty degrees below zero. Eating ice cream by the river is a strong self-cultivation.
Check in Sophia Square
Ticket price: 15 yuan
This is the location of St. Sophia Cathedral. This Byzantine-style Orthodox church was built in 1907 and is a landmark building in Harbin.
has seen Sophia Cathedral countless times in the media, and today I finally stood in front of it. In fact, it is not very accurate to say that it is a Byzantine style. It is somewhat different from the Byzantine churches I have seen in Europe, and there is a more Russian style that is integrated into it.
The night view of the square comes with a magic filter, it seems that it is at the train station in Harry Potter, and the most beautiful moment in Harbin will also come.
Eat ice cream on Central Street
Address: Daoli District Flood Control Memorial Tower
Transportation: Take Night 1 Road to Daoli Sandao Street Station
Every ancient street has a place in history. In 1898, at the beginning of the Middle East Railway Construction, most of the required road construction materials were shipped to Harbin along the Songhua River, and the transport ships were docked at the current flood control memorial tower and the simple dock in the area of Tongjiang Streetkou. The materials unloaded from the ship are transported to the construction site by rickshaws and horse-drawn carriages.
People walk, horses trample, and carriages. Over time, this deserted meadow has forcibly set a way out. Foreign merchants seized the opportunity and opened shops here to do business, and later paved the bread stones for the sake of easy roads.
There are different versions of the legend about bread stone. Some say that the stone path was paved by Russians; some say that each stone is 1 meter long, like a wooden stake, and is nailed to the ground one by one; some say that each stone is worth 1 US dollar.
Anyway, the memories left by history are now under your feet, so you must come to Central Street for a walk and step on the bread stone. The architecture of the entire street is very distinctive, bringing together the most influential architectural schools in the history of Western architecture, including the Renaissance styles of the 15th to 16th centuries, the Baroque styles of the 17th century, the eclectic styles of the 18th century and the Art Nouveau styles of the 19th century. These schools focus on the century-old essence of Western architectural art. I guess you are an architecture enthusiast and will definitely fall in love with this street.
At night, the Central Street spreads the warmth of winter in the hustle and bustle of neon lights. It is unparalleled in beauty and is full of tourists. It wasn't in vain to eat a Madier popsicle or a Russian meal.
By the way, you can go to the flood control memorial tower for a walk
Stroll through the Binzhou Railway Bridge
Address: Dalin, the east side of the park, Daoli District,
Transportation: Take No. 52 to get off the Youth Palace Station
The title of this bridge is very loud - the earliest railway bridge on the Songhua River, which was built in 1900. The Binzhou Line refers to this section of railway from Harbin to Manzhouli. This cross-river bridge carries the history and historical changes of Harbin railways for more than 100 years. Now it has retired and has been converted into a sightseeing pedestrian bridge for tourists to visit.
Another interesting place is the Binzhou Railway Bridge divided into two areas: Daoli and Daouwai. The gun tower with gun holes on the road is kept intact.
Siloge Tiger Forest Garden Close-up Tiger
Address: No. 88, Songbei Street, Songbei District
Transportation: Take No. 35 to Hulin Garden Station
October 10-April 30 of the following year8:30-16:30
Ticket price: Starting from 117 yuan
Local old cannon tell us that people are watching tigers in other places, and tigers are watching people here. Sure enough, as soon as you enter the park, you can see the snow and rockery in the distance. The tigers lie leisurely, far exceeding the number of people in a car.
The big tiger's eyes were tilted to the ordinary sightseeing car we were riding, and we didn't even bother to move our heads. If it were a thrilling car, they had already met with each other. Thriller cars can feed tigers, and of course, food costs extra money to buy, it is simply a large mobile dining car for tigers.
In addition to tigers, there are lions. Wandering among the tigers, it is a bit exciting experience to watch the king of beasts up close.
The Chinese Baroque style of Laodaowai
Address: No. 197, Jingyang Street, Daowai District
Transportation: Take Route 109 to Jingyang Street Station
Tickets: Free
The Western appearance, but there is a Chinese-style courtyard hidden inside. It is a unique architectural form of Harbin people - China Baroque. Lao Daowai is the largest "Chinese Baroque" architectural block in my country. The buildings on the entire street are filled with the atmosphere of history, making people feel like they are suddenly traveling through time.
Take photos with the old building as the background, and it seems to have the feeling of Qing Palace drama. It’s just that the heavy equipment hinders my performance~
It is probably because of the weather. There are not many tourists on the street, but when you walk into the restaurant, you find that it’s overcrowded. There are so many time-honored restaurants. I chose a century-old restaurant that eats casseroles with my friends. The reputation of the casserole tastes nothing to say, but the meat of the pot dumplings is thicker. After drinking the hot casserole in the coldest days, he immediately resurrected with full blood.
View (see) Watch (and) Ice Bucket Challenge
Address: No. 555 Friendship Road Harbin Shangri-La Hotel
Harbin Shangri-La Hotel (hereinafter referred to as: Haxiang) held the Ice Bucket Challenge. This year is the seventh year. Since the internationally advocated Ice Bucket Challenge, Haxiang has turned this into a winter species retention project. Now, Pit Frez, the initiator of the Ice Bucket Challenge, has passed away due to ALS. His initiation has allowed more people to understand ALS and have also raised a certain amount of donations for the patients. The most important thing is that his spirit can be carried forward here.
This is a game belonging to the Warriors, exciting and self-challenging. I didn't say anything, just looking at me, I started to tremble. The participants are so amazing. Let's like it with your real name!
Snow Expo large-scale snow sculptures
Address: No. 1, Sun Island Scenic Area, No. 3, Sun Avenue, Songbei District,
Transportation: Take the Songhua River Cableway to Sun Island
Opening hours: From late December to the following year's Spring Festival every winter, 8:00-17:00
Ticket price: Adult tickets 240 yuan, student tickets 120 yuan,
Full name: Sun Island International Snow Sculpture Art Expo. The Snow Fair has a history of 29 years. Every winter, "playing" a "Winter Love Song" is the most natural gathering between man and snow, art and nature.
The large-scale snow sculptures are quite spectacular, small and interesting. At that time, some ice sculpture artworks were being produced at a rapid pace, and many people worked together, and each participating producer was an artist.
The first time I experienced the skating slide, I slid twice in a row. If I weren't in a hurry, maybe I would have to do it a few more times.
The World of Ice and Snow must be finale
Address: Sun Island West District, Songbei District,
Transportation: Business Bus Line 11 to Ice and Snow World Station
Business hours: 10:00-22:00
Ticket price: 100 yuan
Before, whenever I mentioned to my friend that I wanted to come to Harbin, the other party would ask back: "Go to the World of Ice and Snow"? Its popularity and yearning in the hearts of southerners can be seen.
In the hotel room, through the wide glass windows, I could see the brightly lit brilliance from afar, like a glowing treasure pot.
I was very lucky to wait until the opening of the Ice and Snow World before leaving, and I asked my local friends for their blessings, so I didn’t even buy tickets myself.
Although I am from the north, I am not as northern as the Northeast. Even if I only have frozen portions in winter, I don’t have fun. This time it was an eye-opening joy. Not only can you enjoy large-scale ice sculpture architectural artworks of various styles, but you can also enjoy many ice games. There is ice under your feet, your hands touch the ice, and there is ice everywhere you look. Colorful lights penetrate the crystal ice, making the building present more three-dimensional layers. It took only ten days to transform from a flat ground into a paradise. What a huge project volume and amazing speed.
I have to envy the children in Northeast China for the anti-freeze index. A 6-year-old boy from a friend’s house rolls on the ice and is having a lot of fun sliding on the slide.
I saw the legendary wild diving scene, and it was a large wild diving scene in the snow. The scene was so shocking. The lingering sound is lingering, and there are still echoes now...
Food article
For me, understanding local food is an indispensable part of the journey. Compared with the exquisite southern dishes, Northeast cuisine reveals the coolness and enthusiasm that matches the people of Northeast China. The big dish code is its biggest feature. When you arrive in Northeast China, you have to change your idea of ordering dishes, otherwise it will easily cause waste. Reunion and festiveness are the emotional feelings that Northeast cuisine brings to people in addition to its taste.
Although it is easy to eat the hometown dishes no matter where you are now, the authentic taste still needs to be blessed by local ingredients. Some misunderstandings about Northeast cuisine in the past were also corrected during this trip.
Northeast specialty iron pot stew
Occasionally I will eat a meal of iron pot stew in Shenzhen. Everyone sits around the stove, and the meat and fish are squatting in the iron pot. The aroma of corn flour cakes is steaming with the aroma of the meat.
, but when I arrived in Harbin, especially after I walked into the private room of the Haxiangxiang Palace Chinese Restaurant, I realized that the previous situation was really weak. At this moment, an oversized table that can sit around 20 people is right in front of you, with a table in the table and a stove in the table.
The two-bit big pots with local hazel mushrooms stewed with stupid chicken and big goose stewed with mountain potatoes in the three-bit iron pot have begun to work. Another pot is probably planning at this moment.
In the preparation of the appetizers (I have to admit that the fact that drinking and chatting was too excited to make the photos missed), the finale was a grand debut.
Everyone cheered and before they could get into the room, they couldn't help but be excited and rushed out to take pictures. What came out after many calls was the Northeast Fish-Head Buddha jumped over the wall.
In addition to the huge fish heads from Songhua River, there are shrimps, sea cucumbers, abalone, goose palms, ribs, etc. that are bigger than your hands... and stew them with old fire soup. Please imagine the taste yourself. At this moment, I swallowed a few more saliva.
Eating hot pot in the snow house
Every time I see hot pot in the northeast igloo on TV, I am always curious about what kind of experience it would be. I didn’t expect that not long after, I was lucky enough to experience it myself.
In the past, every year, the Shangri-La Hotel in Songbei, Harbin (hereinafter referred to as Rosin) would build an ice palace in winter. This year, for well-known reasons, the snow house was rebuilt. It looks like a flawless little castle, as if Snow White lives inside. Walking in, emm... I probably live in the Northeast princess.
A shop of large flower cloth, a hot pot, a drink of wine, and a Northeast flavor BGM, Emma~~~ The atmosphere of the New Year is so strong that I opened my mouth and came out semi-automatic Northeast dialect.
wine glasses are made of ice, and even the bottom of the pot in the carbon stove is ice. Using the bottom of the pot to cook mutton is called ice-boiled lamb. Such characteristics are not eaten in Northeast China and are not very touching. I have to say that the lamb is tender and delicious, without any fishy smell. Even the friends who used to resist mutton couldn't stop eating it after trying it. There is another reason why you can't stop - cold, don't be deceived by the illusion of big floral cloth. At this moment, you are sitting in the ice and snow at minus 20 degrees Celsius and eating hot pot.
Lamb, beef, seafood... This meal took more than 2 hours to finish the "fight", and it was warm from the inside to the outside. This is the most unforgettable meal on my trip to Harbin.
The serious Jiang Xian cannot miss
I met Xiaopang in Yangzhou many years ago. In recent years, he has been committed to local food promotion in Harbin and has become a well-known food self-media person. I asked him for the suit, this time I took me to this fishing village, which was the closest to Songhua River by locals, to eat the river fresh.
I have eaten a lot of seafood in the past, but I know very little about the rich products of Songhua River. This time, I not only enjoy the food, but also open my eyes - Three Flowers, Five Romans and Eighteen Sons. After I came back, I searched and studied hard, but I still couldn't tell the difference by turning my head. It seemed that I could only rely on food to consolidate my memory. I had to go there frequently in the future.
Northeast People have a "specially daring" quality to cook. Using local ingredients, even if they don't look matched, they can be stewed. Potatoes stewed with sturgeon (sturgeon) are full of sauce, and the potatoes are soft and sour, and are given fresh fragrance by sturgeon, which tastes even more than the former. Two kinds of fish came up behind
. The names have been forgotten. I only remember that they are all plump and have no fine thorns. There is no need to eat them carefully, just taste them with relish.
What impressed me most was the stewed beans in the iron pot. At that time, I went down to order dishes with my friend, and more than a dozen iron pots were arranged in a row. My friend introduced that these stewed dishes were all sold out. The beans and meat were stewed in a pot, which seemed inconspicuous. My friend told the waiter to give me one, but I had already ordered the last one, and the rest was less than one. My friend insisted that you want less than one share.
When served on the table, it was placed on the same plate with the stewed large stew. I first tasted a chopstick of beans that my friend asked for. I immediately had a bright eye. The skin of ordinary beans was thin and easy to rot after stewing for a long time. The beans were thick and soft and glutinous. The beans absorbed the essence of the soup at the same time, which was very tasty and fragrant.
Soft Fried Spike Five Leaf
Spike Five is a shrub that has value from seeds to stems to skin. The leaves are soft and fried and they are very crispy.
frozen fruit is an essential dessert for every meal.
Northeast skewers are indispensable
Arrived in Northeast China. There is nothing wrong with one meal that cannot be solved by skewers. If there is, then two meals! On Christmas Eve, I looked at the snow outside the window with my friends while feeling the hotness of the Northeast barbecue. With the warm skewers, my body slowly woke up, and the unhappiness in my memory was also cured by the situation in front of me.
The barbecue I like must be full of carbon flavor, the meat is fat and lean, and the vegetarian dish is spicy and crispy. I also don’t like the sweetness of Southern barbecue, Orleans flavor, etc., and simple peppers, cumin, salt and good ingredients are best for me. Therefore, before I came to Northeast China, I made a wish to have at least one barbecue meal. Under the leadership of Xiaopang, my long-cherished wish was fulfilled and I was particularly satisfied.
The first time roasted bone marrow is very special, with a tough and elastic teeth, and a jelly-like texture with bone marrow.
Roasted cicada pupa is also an indispensable ingredient in Northeast barbecue. I love the feeling of protein pulping in my mouth.
Special food must be eaten with
Northeast. There are many more foods. On the day I went to Laodaowai with my friends, I ate the local time-honored Li's casserole. The quantity is large and affordable. The meatballs, tofu roasting pot and sauerkraut white meat casserole are both very good. It can feed two people with an oil cake. However, the meat of pot dumplings was slightly disappointed. The meat was thick and not loose enough, which was far from what I ate in the Rosin Xiang Chef Chinese Restaurant.
However, the price is really solid. A casserole costs only 12 yuan, even in a scenic spot.
Candied haws, frozen pears, and pig-killing vegetables can be eaten in the hotel we stayed in - two Shangri-La hotels in Harbin.
In addition, the jujube wood roast duck and the exquisitely shaped authentic Northeast cuisine in the Chinese restaurant of Rosin Xiang Chef are also unforgettable.
It is necessary to live in a good and delicious place
Low temperature environment creates a unique and spectacular winter scenery. Although it is very pleasant to play outside all day, it is also a test of physical fitness. Back at the hotel, take a comfortable hot bath and have a good sleep, which can quickly recover and become full. Therefore, living comfort is too important during the journey. This time I experienced two Shangri-La hotels in Harbin. Needless to say, I will also extract their own characteristics so that everyone can have a reference when booking a hotel.
Harbin Shangri-La Hotel
* Location Invincible
Harbin's geographical location is close to Harbin Central Business District. It is only about 10 minutes' drive from Centennial Street-Central Street. It is also very convenient to visit scenic spots such as Sophia Church and Northeast Hulin Garden. You can understand it as being located in the center of the universe and it is convenient to go anywhere.
The river view room I lived in this time, outside the window is the beautiful scenery of the Songhua River, and I can still walk along the riverside at night.
*Theme Parent-child Room
To grandly introduce six main family suites, integrating the design inspiration of Singapore Shangri-La family suites with the special ice and snow elements of Harbin. For such a room, let alone a family with children, even I, a child who is over-age, don’t want to come out when I walk in.
The door of each theme room has been hinted at the theme.
There is also an open stock room on the same floor, which provides free access to items or rental or sale. This setting is quite considerate, and you no longer have to bring big bags to travel for your children.
*Buffet first-class
In recent years, I have been to and from home and abroad. I have stayed in many hotels and have my own understanding and standards for hotel catering. In addition to Xianggong Chinese Restaurant, Haxiang can also like it with real names in full-time restaurants.
In addition to Japanese food, seafood, etc., there are a lot of authentic food, and you can "catch all the local snacks in one place".
Grilled cold noodles, pork slaughter vegetables, egg stew, sticky bean buns, barbecue... I tried all these snacks that I had a rare taste and I was full.
Winter hotpot is warm as soon as it is served.
Harbin Songbei Shangri-La Hotel
*90% of the river view rooms
Everyone stay, you can enjoy the sunrise and sunset of the Songhua River. This feeling of "when you enter the warm room, you can drink tea while overlooking the beautiful scenery" is precious in the cold Northeast. The beauty of Songhua River does not repeat from morning to night, and you will know how worthy it is.
At night, through the window, we crossed the river bridge with traffic. Not far away, the colorful world of ice and snow was like a colorful treasure pot.
In addition to the guest rooms, let’s take a look at the view of the gym and swimming pool. You can still enjoy a visual feast during exercise. Isn’t it fragrant?
Hotel is also very close to Sun Island, and you can check in to the Snow Expo, Northeast Hulin Garden, and Harbin Opera House in one-stop.
*Service-style Executive Apartment
Hotel also has apartments ranging from 45 square meters to 133 square meters, especially suitable for permanent or short-term renters. It is equivalent to a home that can be moved into with your luggage at any time. Some people clean up, but there are no safety hazards at all, so it is convenient to eat, exercise and travel.
*Dining options are many
"Fragrant Chef" Chinese restaurant has been introduced before, and there is also "Song Coffee" Western Restaurant and Lobby Lounge. Don’t forget that there are limited-time special silos in winter~Ps. Want to play with water splashing into ice? Just inform the hotel reception and make arrangements.
This is my last trip in 2020. Although this year has not been satisfactory, I am lucky to have traveled through 13 cities in circles. From Sanya in May to Harbin in December, from the southern end of the motherland to the north, we still have to be grateful for the prosperity of the great motherland.
2021, I will continue on the road with a more abundant self. Let's see you on the way~
Travel Guide
* Come from a place with a large temperature difference, be sure to thicken your clothes at the airport before going out.
* About 30-40 minutes drive from the airport to the city. Traffic jams will occur during peak hours.
* Carry a warm baby with you, it is best to buy the one with a 12-hour period.
* When the temperature is too low, the phone will easily turn off automatically.You can paste the warm baby on the back of the phone and put it in your pocket when not in use. I think the cold resistance of the
* camera is OK. At -18 degrees, the battery of a SLR still lasts for most of the day without any problem.
shooting device
sony A7RM3+1635 f4, 50 f1.8
sony Black card RX100M7
