text: How good is the founder of Wendaomi
Dior? I used to understand it through pictures, which is indeed good, but only after seeing the real thing and listening to the teacher's explanation of the layout, can I understand how far this good height is.
does not mean making a certain person or a brand out of reach, but refers to the current era.
Look at the picture first:
"French Rose" comes from Dior's 1947 high-end custom "Crown" series. The name "Rose" not only points out the color of this dress, but also it is one of Mr. Dior's favorite flowers.
The following dance dress called "Venus" is a product copied by American fashion manufacturer Nanty Frocks with the authorization of Dior. It comes from the "Medieval" series of high-end customization in autumn and winter 1949.
tribute to the famous work "The Birth of Venus" created by the famous Italian painter Botticelli in 1486. The front and back asymmetrical hem shape of the sequin decoration imitates the shape of the shell, which is also an important theme of this high-end custom series.
What I particularly like is the following 1951 "Austria". The breast structure is as beautiful as a flower.
This dress was originally designed as bright pink, and was adjusted to green velvet with gray grosgrain at the final press conference. The actual color of the style was modified according to the preferences of the North American market.
Let’s take a look at the design of doing this kind of small movements on the chest in different periods. First, the Dior2007 spring and summer series designed by John Galliano—
In addition, there is also the Dior2012 autumn and winter high-end customization designed by Raf Simons—
Autumn and Winter Autumn and Winter " Palmyra " in the fall and winter of 1952 is also very classic. "Palmyra" is an ancient city located in Syria today. It is one of the important ancient cultural centers. Its art and architecture have been influenced by ancient Greece and Rome, Persian design and handicrafts.
Many socialites have owned this model, including Toronto socialite Dorothy Bolin, and also on the "Best Dress" list published by Toronto Telegraph in 1953. The Duchess of Windsor and Ona O'Neal, the fourth wife of Charlie Chaplin, also owned the same style.
Raf Simons designed several high-end custom dresses with similar silhouettes, such as the 2013 spring and summer haute couture.
The afternoon dress named "Caracas" below is a high-end custom "free" series in spring and summer 1957. The fabric is made of double silk, with some raised small dots and short sections on it. The famous Italian movie star Sofia Roland has worn this one.
The following model is called "Promise", from the high-end customized "spindle" series in Autumn and Winter 1957.
To ensure that the silhouette is so stable, the canvas lining is used to shape, and the elastic shoulder strap is hidden inside to maintain the shoulder position.
These materials are from the China Silk Museum being held by the "Dior Dior by Dior (1947-1957)". The exhibition is full of more than 100 high-end customized fashions, accessories, fabrics, embroidery samples and design manuscripts created by design master Dior during his lifetime in 11, accompanied by printed publications and video materials.
This exhibition was introduced to "Christen Dior" from the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, Canada. It is really a lucky for the audience to see it in China, especially after watching it, this feeling is even stronger.
cooperates with this exhibition, the China Silk Museum and Tsinghua University School of Fine Arts jointly held the academic conference [“About the East: Dialogue between Dior Fashion Art and Contemporary Chinese Design”]. I was very fortunate to be a guest of conversation. The other guests were all from experts and professors from well-known art colleges. I have always been a little nervous.
From left to right: Zang Yingchun (Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts), Zhang Lichuan (Shenzhen University), Xie Mengdi (Central Academy of Sciences), Zhejiang University of Science and Technology (Shen Yan), Wendao Mibenmi
My conversation host is Mr. Zang Yingchun. The first of the topics she gave is about why Dior was born in that era.
In fact, everyone is familiar with the history of Dior. When preparing for this conversation, I wanted to say something different. I found a clue from several historical details. I shared it with you on the spot and recorded it here.
"Avril" two-piece garden party dress comes from Dior Spring and Summer 1955 high-end custom "A" series
newlook and the secret of "American Dream"
Everyone knows Dior's newlook, and the word newlook is not what he himself said. It was the editor-in-chief of the American Bazaar in the United States told him after watching the show that your long skirt brought "newlook".
There is a key information hidden here: the United States.
"Battinor"'s coat comes from the high-end customized "Trouble View" series in spring and summer 1949
local fashion publications in Paris are super strong, but obviously in Dior's first show, the editor-in-chief of the American Bazaar was a very important figure, because after he finished speaking, he was recorded by a reporter from Reuters on the side with a pen, and then threw the small manuscript out of the window to the correspondent stationed outside.
It is said that Reuters, which is famous for its efficiency, sent the manuscript to the United States on the same day (it is estimated that the correspondent belongs to the United States and Reuters belongs to the United Kingdom), so Dior became popular in the United States as soon as possible after the show. This news broke out in France one month later, because France went on strike at that time...
"Caimir" cocktail party dress comes from the high-end customized "Y" series in autumn and winter 1955
Dior is actually how popular it is in the United States? In fact, it can be deduced from some later details. Because of the second year of the brand's establishment, a high-end garment store was opened in the United States in 1948 and a branch was established. Every year, Mr. Dior himself leads his team to work in the United States for a period of time. If he wasn't good enough in the United States, he wouldn't have such an arrangement. Later Dior also entered the UK, but in 1952, several years later than the far-reaching United States.
"Twelve of Twelve" two-piece evening dress from the spring and summer 1951 "Natural" series
was the year when I went to the United States to open a company. A company in New York expressed its hope to provide stockings and certain funds to his show to sell selected socks and add the Dior trademark after its trademark. Dior thought it was feasible, but required dividends to be paid in addition to a one-time payment, so they started selling socks in 1949.
"A" three-piece daytime set comes from the spring and summer 1955 high-end custom "A" series
There is another thing that is also very interesting, also about American businessmen.
At that time, the Americans took his tie authorization, and they designed and produced it themselves. Once Dior saw one of the tie and thought it was too ugly to bear it, so he wanted to cancel the style, but the tie dealer repeatedly begged and told him that this was the style that President Eisenhower often bought. No matter what era, the president is an expert in selling goods.
"A" three-piece daytime set
If we follow today's chicken soup article, the direction of this story should be in the face of the temptation of money. Mr. Dior will never compromise and firmly choose to be more aesthetic literacy than anything else.
But in fact, he compromised, hahahahahahahahaha.
"Pondicherry" evening dress jacket comes from the high-end customization "flying" series in spring and summer 1948
At that time, the high-end customization industry was in a recession. Many high-end designers still believed that making ready-made clothes low. Dior is the top star in the French fashion circle. There is no doubt that he is so keen on licensing and making high-end ready-made clothes has an impact on other designers.
"Egypt" evening dresses come from the high-end customized "slim" series of autumn and winter 1951
Look at the United States again. After World War II, the US economy developed very fast, and the entire fashion industry, mainly garment industry, developed quite well. According to data, in 1955, 95% of women in the United States wore ready-to-wear, while only 40% of women in France wore ready-to-wear.
In 1955, the US Department of Commerce invited a French expedition team to the United States to inspect garment manufacturers. The media and merchants went there to understand how the United States promoted garment through business methods, and the media played the role of .
No matter how low it feels to be ready-to-wear, this is also a historical choice. By the end of the 1950s, France's ready-to-wear industry gradually stabilized and had its own position, and the United States played an invisible role.
"Kindenager" dance dress comes from the high-end custom "Crown" series in Autumn and Winter 1947
So the question is, Dior has such a good business acumen, it seems that he will even give up his noble blood for business. Why is he still very stable in the high-end customization industry?
That's because he is really a design genius, and the first generation Dior is really a masterpiece.
"Delfi" cocktail party dress comes from the high-end customized "feeling" series in Autumn and Winter 1956
This feeling will be more obvious after watching the thin exhibition, because in the past, I felt it deeper and it was too beautiful. After looking at the real thing and listening to the teacher's explanation, I realized how complex production technology is needed to support it.
This exhibition contains a restored clothing and some analysis of the style structure, led by Professor Wang Chaohui from Donghua University. The following model that was restored -
Restored. This 1949 "Jigma" two-piece daytime set
Teacher Wang was invited by Director Zhao in August to restore it. It was still very nervous to complete it in more than a month. The clothes in the 1940s and 1950s were different from now on. Because the human body was different, the human table was also different, so it was very difficult to make. You need to make a bra first and then do other parts. This was also understood during repeated production.
doesn't seem to be anything, the sleeves are very complicated, and the inner piece is connected to the back and sleeves. It is the same piece of fabric. There is a horizontal and smooth road on the left and right sides of the sleeves, and there are inserts on the left and right armpits. I just can’t understand one or two pictures, and I don’t understand the real thing very much.
However, Teacher Wang also said that the restored clothes cannot be 100% the same as the original, because Dior's accuracy in proportion and aesthetic requirements at that time were difficult to achieve in modern times.
"The 1930s and 1950s were the pinnacle of fashion production, especially in the 1950s. Later, the production level declined severely. This era lacked the spirit of craftsmanship, and I would never make a piece of clothing like this, and the whole world could not do it."
PPT used by Teacher Wang during his lectures in the local
It was not until this meeting that I knew exactly what the production process in the master era was completely impossible to achieve in modern craftsmanship. It was so sad.
1948, Isabel
For this lecture, I specially wore a Dior suit from the Raf Simons era (thanks Anita for flying from Guangzhou to deliver clothes to me). It happened that Professor Jia Xizeng of Tsinghua Academy of Fine Arts mentioned the Z series in 1948 and found that the source of this piece on me was the Z series.
It’s a pity that I didn’t take a picture of the back of this piece on me
There are too many brands nowadays that are decorative, with various prints and patterns, and they completely ignore tailoring. Even brands like Dior, which have a strong history and information, are they neglecting further exploration at the structural level. Is the design regression? Or is it a collapse of aesthetics? Can't figure it out.
part source: China Silk Museum
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Wendaomi, a media person, curator, designer, and has won the China Fashion Award for Best Fashion Commentator of the Year. Self-packaging is complete. In fact, he is a foodie who likes to write articles, design, draw, and is addicted to his cooking skills. He also has strong skills in avoiding social interaction. WeChat official account: Wendaomi Weibo: Wendaomi Contact: [email protected] There are also a bunch of platforms for synchronous updates...
