Who would talk first about the crab with an ugly and fierce image? There is a record of "When King Cheng was Cheng, Haiyang offered crabs" in "Jizhong Zhou Shu". King Cheng of Zhou was the son of King Wu Ji Fa, and the history of crab consumption should be very early.

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in the Northern Song Dynasty Su Song was a good friend of Su Xun . His "Bencao Tujing" says: "Now people regard crabs as the good food flavor." It can be seen that during the Northern Song Dynasty, crabs were delicious. " Crab " agrees with Su Song. In literature, there are many crab-loving foodies.

is the first of all Bi Zhuo of the Jin Dynasty. This person is most famous for four sentences: "Hold the crab claw in the left hand and the wine glass in the right hand, and slapped the floating in the wine pool for a lifetime!" He held the crab legs in one hand and the wine in the other hand, and slapped the water floating in the wine pool... The Eastern Jin people are really free and carefree.

Su Shi's student Zhang Lei said: "The solid gold is heavy, and the claws are fat and white jade is fragrant." The crab roe inside the shell is full, and the gold is heavy; the flesh inside the legs is very fat, and it smells like white jade. During the Northern Song Dynasty, he ran to Gushan as a hermit. He said: "The water marks fall in autumn and the crab claws are fat. After I am idle, I return home from drinking and eating."

· Su Shi ·

· Huang Tingjian ·

Talented man of the Northern Song Dynasty Song Xiang said: "The pears are full in the evening, and the crab armor is fat in the frost." Huang Tingjian, another student of Su Shi, also said: "The crabs are fat and the society is ripe."

may be the favorite food of Lu You . Lu You, who is "old in Cangzhou", spent a lot of his life in the countryside of Jiangnan. He wrote a lot of poems about the deliciousness of crabs.

"The tide is strong and knows that there are many crabs." "The new crabs are big and full." " purple crabs are one foot of frost path." "The purple crabs tangerine oranges are fragrant." "There is a strange thing today. Jiangpu gets frost claws." "Frost crabs recommend fat claws, and silk waterweed add fermented fermented syrup."

"There is a recipe for cooking sheep's feet, and breaking the precepts is still ashamed to break the crab's navel." "Dye dan pears half cheeks, chopping snow crabs two claws." "Why not drunk in the village wine, 鸭文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文文� Crabs are grown in the Luoshui region and the vast south, and some northerners do not like them. For example, Han Yu and Yuan Zhen in the Tang Dynasty. In their poems, they complained that crabs are the earthy taste of savages, including books such as "Food Slips" and "Food Edicts", which also have prejudice against crabs. "Crab Lue" believes that Han Yu and others' prejudices need to be ignored.

In ancient times, the transportation was underdeveloped, and crabs could only be cooked when they were alive, and they could not be eaten when they died, so there were never even seen crabs in some places. In " Dream of the Story of " in Northern Song Dynasty, Shen Kuo said that Guanzhong area (now central Shaanxi) has no crabs. The locals think that they are terrible when they look at it and think that they are monsters. Qinzhou There is a family in the family who sent a dried crab. People with malaria around them borrowed it and hung it on the door. The disease is often cured. Therefore, he joked that not only did people know crabs, but ghosts didn’t know them (were scared away).

Eight ways to eat crabs in the Song Dynasty

Lu You has a poem: "Why do you have to drink wine in a glass of wine and break the crabs yellow orange ." Here are wine and citrus.

wine, oranges and citrus, are the most common crab companions.

is not uncommon. It is very common to remove the fishy smell of rice wine. Today, it is also common to put rice wine in the cooking pot, or drink rice wine to eat. Oranges are also used to remove the fishy smell, and today there is also the dish "crab-stuffed orange". In ancient poems, there are many cases of eating crabs and oranges together.

So, what are the ways to eat crabs in the Song Dynasty?

The oldest way to eat it is to cook it. Han Dynasty may be mainly cooked and eaten. open got crabs "not cooked alone", but distributed them to the elders, which was a good story. The Northern Song Dynasty Mei Yaochen also has the writing style of "cooking crab claws". Gao Sisun has a poem: "Get white water near the stream, and cook stone crabs at first."

Heating and eating can be disinfected. This is the most common cooking method that humans have been accustomed to after mastering the fire.

Hand washing crab

At the latest, there are ways to eat raw foods, similar to today's " choking crab " in the area of ​​ Zhoushan and Ningbo .

Su Dongpo "Lao Tao Fu " has a sentence "Crabs grow in tiny and carry terribles". "A Brief Crab" says that this way of eating was also available at . The living crabs were cut open, poured with wine, sprinkled with salt, and added ginger and orange. This is called "hand washing crab". Su Shi also said that "When half of the shell contains yellow, please order wine", and Lu You's "Chop the snow and wash your hands with two claws" is about this dish.

There is a record in the poems of the Song Dynasty: "The purple crabs in the turtle navel are about to taste them at first, but they still stop dyeing them with fishy salt."

makes crab sauce. "Crab Blue" says that people in Wujiang area are proficient in this way, and the quality of crabs in Wujiang and Huzhou is also the best. Of course, not only during the Southern Song Dynasty, today, the crabs in Wujiang and Huzhou are also quite famous. They are on both sides of Taihu .

also contains "Golden paste salt crabs with red balls." It can be seen that salt-pickled crab roe should be as red as salted duck egg yolks. The production of

crab soup

crab soup is not explained in detail in "Crab Blind". Only mentions the poem by Song Qi , a great talent in the Northern Song Dynasty: "The purple crabs grow in the south of the autumn river, and I send them thousands of miles to assist Wu Geng." Song Qi is not from Wu, and he still has a feeling for Wu Geng, which shows that he is also a foodie.

The most interesting thing is Gao Sisun himself: "Every year, I swear to make crab soup, I can't let it go." This poem is called "Swear to Crab Soup". I swear to make crab soup every year, but I'm always lazy, so let's forget it.

terrible crab

terrible crab is simple. As the name suggests, wine lees are pickled. Drunk crabs can be seen in restaurants of all sizes today. There is also a kind of name called Crab. It uses wine to get the crabs drunk, and the meat full of vitality is used to remove the fishy smell from the wine.

The ancients wrote a "Crab Poem": "Walking through thousands of miles, I am willing to kill myself when I am drunk." Crabs are riding through thousands of miles, drunk and unconscious, and willing to be served on the dining table. The drunk crab is a bit heroic.

Gao Sisun also wrote: "The soul is fascinated by the moon on the beach, and the body is old and the pine flower is in the jar. It is not that there is no intestine, but that the flavor is passed on to people." Crabs (also known as the intestine young master) grow up in the spring scenery of the willows and live in the pine flower wine. He is not greedy for drinking this little wine, but really to spread the beautiful flavor to the world.

There is another sentence in the book "Crab Brush": "Word method: put a grain of dogwood in the stomach, and it will not be sand for years." Putting dogwood in the navel of the crab can keep the taste longer, I don't know if it is.

sugar crab

sugar crab is a relatively luxurious dish. "Southern History" records that Southern Dynasties He Yin was very extravagant and wasted food. He removed those unimaginable things, and there were so luxurious sugar crabs. In ancient times, sugar yields were not high, which may be the reason for the luxury of this dish.

Zhong Ju, a subordinate of He Yin's sect, said: "The crabs are so irritable that they are so irritable. A kind person uses his intentions and feels deeply compassionate." The crabs were put into the sugar, and the marinated pain was very painful and the body struggled violently. A kind and gentleman will feel compassionate.

Historical books also record: "Qingzhou tribute sugar crab." As a tribute.

Song Qi said "Sugar claws and longevity cups". Huang Tingjian said "Sea Sauce Candy Crab Fat" - he ate sea crab .

Su Shunqing There is also "Frosted orange sugar crab fresh mash, and you will feel that everything is wrong in life." How to eat sugar crab? Eat with the citrus after the frosted and the newly brewed wine. After getting drunk, all the troubles in life are gone.

is made into juice, commonly made of ginger, garlic, leeks into garlic paste, leek sauce, etc. This dish may be made of oranges and crab roe and crab meat mashed.

Orange has a role in removing blood, and actually plays the role of vinegar (a role of a little sugar). Although Han Yu doesn’t like crabs very much, he once said that when removing fishy fish, pepper and oranges should be used.

Foodie Lu Hao said: "The orange sauce is so beautiful that it is not as beautiful as fish and crabs." This is an affirmation of orange sauce, which can enlighten the soul of meat sauce.

Gao Si Sun's poem says, "Bamboo early on, and the orange fragrance is suitable for crabs." When the bamboo shoots are stuffed into the bird's belly, (the two are the best match) the orange fragrance is most suitable for partnering with crabs.

He also said, "Water shield is the first to take when it meets the perch, and orange is the most fragrant when it enters the crab." water shield is the best match for sea bass, and oranges and crabs are in line with each other.

crab roe bread

crab roe bread is also more common today. "You Jinglu" says, "The capital is a great success in buying crab roe bags." Crab roe bags in Kaifeng are very popular. Both sides of the Luoshui River are also important crab production areas in the north.

The "Lingbiaoluyi" in the Tang Dynasty said: "People take crabs, and the inner paste is like yellow crispy. Add five flavors to the shell and smear it." This is to push the crab apart, add various seasonings to the crab roe, and then put them in the shell and roast them. Can crabs be grilled? Cantonese people still know how to eat.

"Lingbiao Luyi" also records another way for Guangdong people to eat crab roe. After adding various seasonings, "covered with fine noodles as glutinous rice, which is precious and beautiful." Adding flour may be similar to the soy sauce. Therefore, it is classified as crab roe buns.

or above is the way to eat it at the Southern Song Dynasty mentioned in "Crab Blind". Today, it is more common in Zhejiang, and fried rice cakes with crabs are also a very common home-cooked dish. Do you know what other good ways to eat crabs?

friendly reminder that the situation of food poisoning is also mentioned in "Crab Luck". For example, one-eyed crabs cannot be eaten, opposite crabs cannot be eaten, pregnant women cannot be eaten, etc. According to legend, Song Xiaozong ate lake crabs, and had diarrhea and the imperial doctor had no good prescriptions. Song Gaozong learned that a doctor in a pharmacy in the alley outside the palace was specially treated with gastrointestinal diseases, so he summoned him to the palace. Dr. Yan prescribed a folk remedy for Xiaozong : use hot wine to prepare fresh lotus root nodes and to take it. Sure enough, the medicine cured the disease. Emperor Gaozong was overjoyed and appointed him as a medical official in the court and rewarded him with a golden pestle and mortar. The people in the city called him the "Gold pestle and mortar strictly defending the family."

Therefore, when eating crabs, especially raw methods such as sashimi, you need to pay attention to it.