Last Thursday, an event that made the entire jewelry circle extremely regrettable, Tiffany & Co., one of the most important jewelry designer in the history, Elsa Peretti, died in his sleep at the age of 80 .
Elsa Peretti has been cooperating with Tiffany & Co. since 1974, 's distinctive design style has not only set off a wave of innovation in the 20th century, her legendary life has also become an encouragement jewelry The spiritual treasure of designers.
Perhaps everyone’s first impression of a famous jewelry designer was that of a male jewelry designer like Jean Sloan Berger, but female jewelry designers are in the jewelry circle Power is also not to be underestimated. In recent years, more and more outstanding female jewellery designers have begun to enter the public eye, allowing us to see the uniquely attractive female design style. In fact, as early as the last century, some female jewelry designers with distinctive personal styles like Jeanne Toussaint have made the entire jewelry circle extremely sensational. Strong6strong is here today to share with Bazhu sister. Open history and "talk" with these beauties who have amazed the jewelry circle.
A rebellious and avant-garde design genius--Elsa Peretti
Most genius designers have the label of "rebellion" in their teenage years.Born in Florence, Italy, Elsa Peretti is the youngest daughter of Italian oil tycoon Ferdinando Peretti. Strong6strong, with a good family background, is bold by nature and loves to take risks. She also took the script of "running away from home" and self-reliance...
strong6 Perstrong has been interested in modelling and designing since she was a child. Leave early on what she considers to be an extremely conservative family. After being cut off by her parents, she persisted in her dream through part-time work and study. Italian teacher, ski instructor... Elsa used all kinds of part-time jobs to successfully accumulate his "dream start-up capital", and finally came to Milan in 1963 to study an interior design degree, and in 1964 Began as a professional model in Barcelona in 2011. This is also the first time Elsa had close contact with childhood dreams after leaving home.
And the trip to New York in 1968 really opened the dream door to the field of jewelry design for Elsa. Elsa met famous fashion designers Oscar de la Renta, Karen Bjornson, Anjelica Huston and others. As a frequent visitor to the legendary nightclub Studio 54 in New York, she became close friends with designer Halston and artist Andy Warhol, and became Studio 54's signature poster girl.
German fashion photographer Helmut Newton
strong photo taken by Elsa Peretti _span8 in 1969 _span8 strongAt the Giorgio di Sant’Angelo show, the first accessory designed by Elsa--a sterling silver bud-shaped vase tied to a leather cord became the highlight of the audience. This "first show" also let Elsa get to know the most important person to her jewelry designer career-Halston.
Halston persuaded the then Broadway actress Liza Minnelli to wear Elsa-designed silver jewelry, helping Elsa gain her first die-hard fan. In 1974, Elsa started a formal cooperation with Tiffany & Co. as an independent designer under his recommendation. The first silver jewellery series of this collaboration was instantly emptied on the day it was launched. Elsa and Tiffany & Co. set off the silver jewellery revolution in the jewelry industry overnight.
In the 50 years that Elsa and Tiffany & Co. have joined hands, she has also left us with many impressive classics!
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany
Elsa Peretti® series
Open Heart necklace
While this will be a lot of young lovers The heart-shaped necklace is regarded as the boy's first "love token". This is Elsa's classic work, which has been very popular since it appeared in the 1980s.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany
Bottle necklace
seemingly fresh and simple "little bottle" is actually filled The beautiful memory of Elsa ~ The blue and calm waters of Portofino, Italy, the girls strolling along the beach, the silky silk skirts are slightly swayed by the sea breeze, and the small water bottle with the fragrance of gardenia is gently on the girl’s chest. Shaking.
Bottle series The smooth lines and open bottle design are both fresh and lovely, and full of Elsa's unique romantic style.
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany
Elsa Peretti® series bracelet
Elsa design inspiration more from the natural world of plants and animals ,She is good at finding inspiration from gadgets that can be seen everywhere in daily life. Beans, insects, and love everywhere can be turned into jewelry under her whimsy, and one of her most representative designs - Bone Cuff, the design inspiration comes from the human bones that Elsa accidentally saw when she didn't listen to her mother to persuade her to play in a church when she was a child.
In addition to jewelry, Elsa also designed a lot of exquisite household items for Tiffany, with its iconic simple and atmospheric style throughout.
"Tsundere woman" who is not afraid of war--Suzanne Belperron
Suzanne Belperron This name may not be familiar to you, but you must have heard the phrase "My style is my signature" .". That’s right, Suzanne Belperron, the most influential female jewelry designer in the 20th century, is such a free and “willful” woman. Strong6strong never signs her own work. She says “My work is my work, signed What, Who cares?" With her tsundere attitude, Sister Bazhu is really in love~
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blue chalcedony bracelets and necklaces
As the first French female jewellery designer to become a master of fine jewelry,Even the Duke of Windsor and many other royal families have fallen under her design. Suzanne's life can be said to be low-key and "crazy". It may be that Libra has an extraordinary aesthetic and taste. Strong6strong, born in 1900, started her own jewelry designer at the age of 19, and by chance, she entered the company of Art Nouveau jewelry master Rene Boivin.
is different from Elsa Peretti’s rebellious but happy first half of his life. The First World War of 1914-1918 took away Suzanne’s mentor Rene, but Suzanne not only did not give up her favorite jewelry design, It also performed a distinctive new interpretation of Rene's Art Nouveau style. In 1936, an iconic piece of Art Nouveau and Art Deco elements was born, and it was sold at the 2006 Geneva Christie's auction for 344,800 Swiss francs, which was nearly five times the estimated price. Although this starfish brooch is marked as Rene's work, from the timeline, most of this brooch came from Suzanne.
Starfish brooch
2006 Geneva Christie's auction
Estimate: 65,000-80,000 Swiss francs
price : 344,000 Swiss francs
As talents gradually revealed,In 1932, Suzanne met the second person who was very important to her career-Bernard Herz, a famous gem and natural pearl dealer in Paris at the time. The acquaintance with Bernard also opened up new inspiration for Suzanne's design. She carefully arranged and arranged those precious stones, and gave these semi-precious stones that would not have been sold at sky-high prices a whole new life. At the 2018 London Sotheby's auction, a "Suzanne Personal Edition" starfish brooch made of chalcedony and diamonds fell at a price nearly 4 times higher than the estimated price. Now you know why Suzanne has Did you say "My style is my signature." with confidence?
chalcedony and diamond starfish brooch
2018 Nian Sotheby's London auction
Estimate: 4,000-6,000 pounds
Transaction price: £27,5000
The gunfire of the war of 1941 once again swept through Paris. Bernard insisted that Suzanne buy the company and change it to Suzanne's name, hoping that Suzanne could save his years of hard work in the troubled times. . In order to repay the kindness of her friends, Suzanne resolutely accepted the "task" of protecting the company and returned the company to Bernard's son Jean without hesitation after the war.
Suzanne still hasn’t been defeated by the successive blows of reality. She not only saved the company from the war, but also designed countless jewelry works that surpass contemporary aesthetics and styles, even Christie’s. Daphne Lingon, head of American jewelry at the auction house, couldn’t help commenting on her "Her jewelry goes beyond the creative period and contemporary aesthetics, showing a unique confidence, boldness and brave vision."
diamond bracelet
2018 Christie's New York Jewelry Auction
134,000 dollars, no craftsmanship, span
After reading the first two legendary female jewellery designers, some friends may ask: "Is only the birthplace of fashion in Europe, can stunning female jewellery designers be born? ?",of course not! Strong6strong Asia also has the same creative and keen sense of fashion. For the first time, the female designer-Ishikawa Choko, who combines Eastern and Western jewelry making techniques and design elements, has influenced the jewelry style of the 20th century.
Choko Ishikawa, born in 1943, is more like a little girl full of fairy tale dreams.Unlike Elsa and Suzanne's "school background", Ishikawa has never studied jewelry design in school, and her encounter with jewelry itself is cleverly like a fairy tale.
After World War II, Japanese talents were extremely scarce, and society began to accept Westernized thought and education. At that time, Ishikawa was studying in the Department of Crafts at Tokyo University of the Arts. Occasionally commissioned by the jewellery company of a classmate’s father, Ishikawa Naoko tried to design jewelry for the first time. Because the jewelry company's customers are mainly from the West, Ishikawa Changzi boldly adopted many western elements in the old oriental craftsmanship when designing jewelry. Unexpectedly, it was this bold attempt that allowed Ishikawa Changzi to unlock his own. Unique Style.
Ishikawa Chuozi combines traditional oriental metal jewelry techniques such as lacquerwork, gold leaf, and Qibao firing with Baroque style and western patterns such as castles, unicorns, churches, etc. The scene is combined with metals and gems. The fairy tale scene of the curtain reappears in front of the customers. The delicate metal chisel marks and the inlaid gemstones complement each other, and the hollow white space that can be seen everywhere creates the light and shadow effect when wearing it, all of which reflect the fairy tale world in Ishikawa's heart.
Although these charming superstars have fallen, their self-contained design style has set off a shocking wave in the jewelry circle and has become an eternal treasure.
After reading the legendary stories of female jewelry designers, do you like Sister Bazhu appreciate their delicate design style and persistence in pursuing dreams?In fact, everyone has their own "small world" that they love. Maybe this small world looks "too high" now. Strong6strong Maybe the voices of the world are telling you that you should give up, but sometimes you just need to stick to it. At a glance, you can see the best scenery on your tiptoes.
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Original content of Bazaar Jewellery Media
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