An article I wrote before, "Why Tang Wei?" expressed a doubt:
Tang Wei has not made much splash in domestic entertainment, but abroad she has been singing all the way to Cannes .
Is there a possibility that actually does not know how to film Tang Wei?
was not expected.
The entertainment industry hasn’t given me an answer yet, but the fashion industry has given me another elbow bump.
The September issue of " Harper's Bazaar " brings Tang Wei, who has just become famous in the international film industry, back to her parents' home.
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9, September 2022 issue)
Let's do some popular science first.
In the fashion circle, the September issues of top magazines are the bible for spring, summer, autumn and winter, and have an extraordinary status.
In the documentary "September Issue", the editor-in-chief of the American version of "Vogue", "The Devil Wears Prada" Anna Wintour has such a golden saying
Is this important enough to be published in the September issue?
In short, not everyone deserves to be on the cover of this magazine.
And this year’s Tang Wei has a celebrity status, works, honors, and popularity. It makes sense that
is in charge of the September issue.
But the question is, is this photo taken from some home and garden magazine? ?
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
From the styling to the theme to the photography, everything is awkward and tacky to the point of despair.
Tang Wei hugged a tree, his mouth flat and his eyes distracted. He probably didn’t understand what he was taking.
But if you see another cover girl in the same issue of the magazine, Shu Qi .
Sister Tang probably had to cover her mouth and snickered.
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
A suit with shoulder pads and a big gold chain, just like the 80s studio style in the county.
To highlight, is actually a fashion magazine.
People say that September and October are the golden nine and silver ten months in the fashion industry, but I find it funny and angry.
Has the aesthetic consumption in the fashion circle been downgraded to this extent?
This is by no means just a problem in the fashion or entertainment circles.
Behind an ugly cover, it even represents the complete collapse of our aesthetics.
Why is it said that Tang Wei failed in filming "Bazaar"? The root cause of
is actually not that it looks ugly.
even takes a few steps back.
Putting aside the aesthetics, this relaxed and comfortable atmosphere actually matches Tang Wei's temperament.
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
The fundamental problem with this set of photos is that is beside the point.
Tang Wei, who has been away from the fashion industry for a long time, has been full of fashion resources in recent months for an obvious reason - " Determination to Break Up ".
Directed by Park Chan-wook , this film helped her become the best actress of the year in Cannes.
What kind of role does Tang Wei play?
A femme fatale who kills her husband without batting an eyelid.
The theme of this issue of "Harper's Bazaar" is "The Power of Simple".
Looking at the time axis, it may be in line with Tang Wei's characteristics in recent years.
But in the specific context of the popularity of "Determination to Break Up", it is completely out of tune.
To put it bluntly, when she didn’t have a job a few years ago, wouldn’t it be reasonable for you to take pictures of her “simple life”?
finally managed to stand out in the international film industry with a unique character, but you just filmed her sitting in a corner holding flowers and giggling?
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
What does this one mean? ?
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
Internal entertainment can't give people a personalized character, that's all. Now they can't even take a set of personalized photos.
Now compare it to the Korean version of "Marie Marie" shot by Sister Tang last month, and the gap becomes apparent.
is cold, dangerous, simple and profound.
The exotic woman in the movie that makes people feel scared is perfectly reproduced.
Marie Claire Korea (22.8)
also specially used a photo of a black cat to echo the background of the character.
Marie Claire Korea (22.8) Marie Claire Korea (22.8)
What’s even more rare is that this set of photos does not have the “stills feel” that is often found in domestic magazines.
not only sticks to the theme, but also does not lose the fashion taste.
Although it is plain and dark, it uses cold and gorgeous jewelry to add mystery and texture.
Marie Claire Korea (22.8)
Take a closer look at her wet hair, the blue-green color, the combination of shell-made jewelry... the scent of a siren is coming to your face.
All these elements, from visual to theme, are perfectly in line with the salty and gloomy temperament of "Determination to Break Up".
In comparison, it can be seen that the two magazines’ understanding of the protagonist is more than a little different.
It can even be said that "Bazaar" has a very shallow understanding of Tang Wei himself, and it still stays in a very superficial "literary style".
"Lust, Caution" plays an assassin, " Late Autumn " plays a murderer, "Determination to Break Up" plays a killer...
Isn't it obvious which quality of Tang Wei in the movie world is the most outstanding?
is a Korean who truly loves Tang Wei. She has photographed Tang Wei quite fondly.
The two covers from more than ten years ago certainly cannot hide the outdated aesthetic.
But the dark and profound temperament is very accurate.
Vogue Korean (11.3) W Korean (08.7)
The only thing worthy of praise is the Chinese version of "Vogue".
"Clothing and Beauty" (22.5)
Although this is a typical domestic entertainment "stills-like" blockbuster as I mentioned earlier.
But the theme is at least worthy of the movie.
However, this is probably due to their new editor-in-chief who was transferred from Australia in 2021, Zhang Ning.
She has not suffered much from the abuse of domestic entertainment aesthetics, but she has brought a lot of new atmosphere to the industry since she took office.
"Clothing and Beauty" (21.10, 11, 12)
It's a pity that the things made are too foreign and not localized enough.
If you think about it carefully, a fashion magazine that has been rooted in China for more than ten years has to rely on foreign editors to provide nourishment.
is enough to make people speechless.
It’s really not me who worships foreigners.
Rather, the domestic fashion circle’s understanding of these beauties of our own is really poor.
Let’s look at Shu Qi again.
Because of the cost, Shu Qi has a sense of high-end. She is the type who can be photogenic just by wearing red lips and is extremely resistant to appearance.
’s previous photoshoot for a certain brand website, it feels like she stole her grandfather’s embroidered jacket, wore her grandma’s dowry gold chain, and came to the event without even combing her hair.
But I can't stand this temperament, which is extremely articulate.
Even if you put rice on the shutter and let a chicken peck at it, it would be difficult to make Shu Qi look ugly.
But Chinese fashion magazines have done it.
is a picture of a Sichuan restaurant waiter with baking paper on his head trapped in IKEA's plastic flowers.
Another picture shows the female ghost getting up from the well and realizing that she accidentally entered the "Peach Blossoms Blooming" MV shooting scene.
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.9)
Come on, Shu Qi! Unexpectedly, I can't capture even a little bit of temperament!
is simply incredible.
You don’t have to go out to find it. Just compare this cover with the Taiwanese version of "Vogue" from the year before last, which also had a retro style and even used the same snake-shaped necklace. The texture of
can be said to be from underground to heaven.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition (20.12)
I don't want to be mean either.
But I really can’t stand this kind of perfunctoryness.
In an industry that sells "beauty", the content of beauty is so low. How ironic is this?
What makes people even more speechless is that this ugly feast does not happen occasionally.
It has become the norm to offer it every now and then.
It is these beautiful faces that we are proud of that have suffered a great disaster.
To be honest, in the internal environment, this kind of thing may not feel awkward after looking numb.
But every time an actress goes international, the "family scandal" is exposed in comparison.
Let me talk about one first, Zhang Ziyi .
Somehow, Empress Zhang, who has a lot of fashion resources, always only has two looks in the top magazines in mainland China.
One is holding the waist with one hand, looking at the camera with blurred eyes, with a Dong Mingzhu style of business sense.
"World Fashion Garden" (18.10, 16.10) "Clothing and Beauty" (15.8, 13.7, 18.2) "Harper's Bazaar" (17.9)
The other one is leaning sideways, with stiff limbs and a face full of pimples Su Mang A middle-aged successful woman of the same style smiles politely.
"World Fashion Garden" (19.10, 17.12) "Red Show" (17.3)
It is no exaggeration to say that this movie face is really blinded.
You must know that even Southeast Asia, which has always been considered to have nothing to do with the fashion industry, is not photographed in such a rigid and dry manner.
The Vietnamese version of "ELLE" at least presents the beauty truthfully, while the Thai version of "Harper's Bazaar" is worthy of praise.
ELLE Vietnam (14.3) BAZAAR Thailand (10.1)
As for the Korean version of the magazine, it’s time to reduce the dimensionality again.
In 2009, Zhang Niangniang came to Seoul to promote her career-defying movie "Perfect", which attracted much attention.
However, the Korean version of "Vogue" did not choose the funny girl setting in this movie.
instead created an extremely dark concept of a villain.
Vogue Korean (09.9)
Earlier in the same year, Zhang Ziyi played an evil beauty in white and black in " knight ".
This is certainly a bad movie.
But the Korean version captures it very accurately - Zhang Niangniang occasionally takes this path, which is much more interesting than those photos of the same style in corporate annual magazines.
Besides, Gong Li who once broke into Hollywood with Zhang Empress.
Gonghuang is actually an "outlier" in this article - the ugly cover of her cover is mostly caused by herself.
For many years, she has only appeared in the September issue of Marie Claire once a year, and nothing else.
Only the designated photographer Feng Hai is used for the magazine, and no other photos are taken.
For the cover photo, she must be wearing white-bone eye makeup and looking at us with strong contouring.
is not fashionable at all.
"Marie Marie" (15.9, 16.9, 18.9, 19.9, 21.9) "Apparel and Beauty" (21.10)
Last year, "Apparel and Beauty" invited her to the October issue, and the entire fashion circle even exclaimed about the new editor-in-chief. Zhang Ning's connections are very strong.
However, Gong Huang's willfulness combined with the magazine's assistance made the outrageous level reach a new high. The finished product of
is amazing - this fashion seems too early for humans.
"Clothing and Beauty" (21.10)
Actually, I am not itching to curse.
is really a pity.
A true first-class beauty does not need too much packaging and embellishment.
In 2005, Zhang Ziyi and Gong Li appeared in the US version of "Vogue" during the promotion of "Memoirs of a Geisha".
are obviously naked, but they are truly beautiful.
Zhang Ziyi is elegant and Gong Li is coquettish. The two oriental temperaments are expressed to the extreme in the simplest way.
Vogue US (05.12)
What makes me most sad is that I have to wear foreign clothes for publicity.
However, these two faces were not wrapped in the cramped and gloomy feeling of the gentle breeze at all, and were still bright and cheerful.
Under the gaze of Western lenses, their Oriental beauty is magnanimous.
Of course, foreigners will definitely not be able to capture the essence of our aesthetics.
But in comparison, many domestic magazines put actresses in bobo hairstyles imitated from foreign countries, put on dresses, and covered their faces with rhinestones that were so unreasonable that they looked like sores.
Isn’t this a real waste and contempt for Eastern beauty?
"Fashion COSMO" (22.9)
Even many movies that represent the height of our aesthetics have been changed into a mess.
Many magazines are already dead, and if they try to get involved in such artistic things, the consequences will naturally be even more disastrous.
pays tribute to " master ".
was stunned to film Zhang Ziyi from the second palace to the lady of Weihushan Yazhai. She is a local rich man limited to domestic entertainment.
"Marie Marie" (22.9)
reproduces "Painted Skin".
has the face of Zhou Xun , so it can’t be said that it is ugly.
It’s just that this is not the arrogant and arrogant fox demon Xiaowei at all, but like the cabinet sister who stole Na Ying ’s wig and went to ride the waves.
"Marie Marie" 21-year beauty blockbuster
Magazine copycat movie is indeed difficult.
But take a look at the Taiwanese version of "Vogue".
A provincial-level publication, even the heroine Shu Qi herself does not need to appear.
still reproduces the temperament of the classic movie "'s best time " with perfect score.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition (20.12)
Hou Hsiao-hsien The decadence, sensuality, and grotesqueness in the shots are also the essence of a group of fashion blockbusters.
"The Best of Time"
Wouldn't it be embarrassing for the Chinese editors of major magazines to open the sample issues sent by their colleagues?
What's more, this is not a question of whether a female star looks good or not.
To put it more seriously. What
represents can also be an aesthetic crisis.
In fact, the reason why fashion magazines are not fashionable can be very simple - the commercialization of .
is not only the Chinese version.
Magazines including Italian and French Vogue, which have always been regarded as fashion bibles, have gradually lost their edge and are no longer different from other magazines on the market.
Vogue Italia (22.7) Vogue France (22.2)
The reason is that this kind of cover has been tested and is more suitable for the aesthetics of the sinking market. If it is too avant-garde and fashionable, it will not sell ads.
But I don’t accept this whitewashing logic.
The public is not beauty blind, and we are not blind either.
Are the things you shoot designed to serve the majority of people, or to serve your own laziness? Can you tell the difference?
Let’s take a look at our Taiwan version.
At the beginning of the millennium, Shu Qi was equally unfavorable when photographed.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition
But in the past two years, this small version has been catching up and has already become the leading aesthetic level in Asia.
What’s even more valuable is that it’s not just the sense of fashion that is first-rate—it uses the image of flowers to discuss environmental issues.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition (21.4)
shows the style of ethnic minorities and the cultural landscape of the region.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition (20.8, 20.3)
also has a rich and elegant Chinese style theme.
"Vogue" Taiwan Edition (19.2)
Many of these blockbusters actually go beyond the category of simple "fashion" and are already quite artistic. It really doesn’t make sense that
was beaten up like this by a regional publication.
I said before that "ugly covers" are not just a matter of fashion, but also related to an overall aesthetic consciousness.
This is not an exaggeration at all.
Whether a magazine for the international community is well done or not actually fully reflects our own perception and exploration of beauty.
is still the Korean version.
I’m not bragging, but I really can’t help but sigh, and even fear their creativity.
is not only the first-class fashion completion.
Korean magazines have even represented East Asia and started to do some very oriental things.
Ink and wash freehand brushwork, Taoism and naturalism, ghosts and strange things... all kinds of themes have been played by them for a long time.
Vogue Korean (21.10)
Even a set of accessories advertisements can introduce guqin, lacquerware and other traditional crafts, and the photos are full of Zen.
Vogue Korean (19.2, 21.8)
Nowadays, there is an argument that although various entertainment industries in South Korea are developed, they have been penetrated by European and American values and aesthetics.
But is this really the case?
Earlier this year, the entire East Asian fashion world was filming a Year of the Tiger special issue.
The twelve zodiac animals originally belonged to our folk culture and are now shared by many countries.
As a beneficiary of Chinese culture, South Korea’s photos are of this level.
Vogue Korean (22.1)
Of course, you may not be used to this classical and modern style of expression.
But please look at our side - this is Yang Mi in a nightclub.
"Harper's Bazaar" (22.1)
This is Shu Qi in the disco.
"Marie Marie" (22.1)
said that this is a representation of traditional culture. Are you willing to admit it?
I don’t want to anyway.
People on the Internet now love to ridicule South Korea for "stealing the country."
However, it is politically incorrect to say so.
Only in the fashion circle, some habitual criminals of cultural appropriation can actually combine classical culture originating from China with international fashion trends so perfectly. No wonder they have a false sense of ownership of our things.
What are we filming in the meantime?
Photo studio with antique style? Photos of tourist attractions? Umbrella summoning scene?
"Trend" (22.6) "Ruili" (20.11) "Harper's Bazaar" (21.10)
I won't criticize this cultural treasure for being stolen, but at present, we have ruined it ourselves anyway.
in the final analysis.
It is one thing for aesthetics to be hijacked by business logic.
It’s another thing to give up insisting on beauty in economic thinking and blindly display bad things for shame.
There are no magazines in China that do well.
"Dossier", "Sauna", " Yueyou "... Although they are niche, these magazines are always full of quality.
has achieved a very high level from popular attributes to aesthetic attributes.
"Dossier" (18.7, 19.1, 20.4)
's attention to and presentation of Chinese traditions and folk customs are worthy of praise.
"Sauna" (Issue No. 003) "Yueyou" (Issue No. 1, 2021)
In fact, we have never lacked excellent aesthetic vision and talents.
On the contrary, what we have is one of the best cultural treasures and aesthetic accumulation in the world.
Therefore, we have no reason not to do a good job.
Regarding the controversy of "stealing culture", I have another level of sigh.
The core of this question is not only who is the founder of culture, but also who is the strong one in culture.
Historically, we have naturally played this strong role.
But now others have used cultural elements to a certain extreme, and even formed a set of self-created aesthetics that is internationally convincing.
This is not what we want to see.
Vogue Korean (21.2, 19.6)
Respect beauty, maintain beauty, and express beauty.
is not just for making a magazine, a movie or a drama.
It is also about our cultural identity and our cultural confidence.
We never seem to lack this confidence.
But confidence means not only creating it and owning it, but also making good use of it and expressing it.
Fashion is not only an industry, to some extent, it is also our "face".
It is painted with oil paints that highlight Chinese aesthetics, and facial makeup that represents the national character.
Look back at the domestic fashion illustrated magazines "Liangyou" and "Linglong" from nearly a hundred years ago.
has a long history, but it does not prevent them from presenting national fashions vividly and charmingly.
Sexy and fragrant, healthy and majestic, unrestrained and confident, literary and intellectual...
We know how to write the word "beautiful" very well.
By the 1990s, only niche magazines in Hong Kong and Taiwan were able to truly record and perfectly present this unique Chinese temperament.
Zhang Yimou, Zhao Yazhi, Andy Lau, Leslie Cheung, P.S. At that time, "Farewell My Concubine" had not yet been released
And now, this "face" is not only sloppy and greasy year after year.
is even sketched into the outline of others, which makes us lose our own identity.
How sad.
We are too accustomed to the ugliness or mindless praise of this circle, or laughing and cursing, or cynicism.
In the process of catching up with the so-called trend, it lost a lot of things.
For example, some of the beauty that everyone is born with.
For example, some of the beauty that has been contemplated from generation to generation.
While watching the joke, who is actually being laughed at behind the scenes?
"Fashion" blockbusters, stop embarrassing us.
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