Nimus Puja
from Xishabangmafeng base camp: At 8:58 am on October 29, 2019, Nepalese climber, former British Special Forces Corporal, Nirmal Purjal, and a total of 4 people from his team successfully climbed the main peak of Xishabangmafeng (8027m), and is currently retreating.
By the standards of modern mountaineering, this is just an ordinary Himalayan climb: several oxygen cylinders, hundreds of meters of ropes, a large amount of supplies, and a guide to lead the way, and there are not many heroic details worthy of rendering.
But it was this ordinary climb that brought a perfect end to Puja's grand plan. This also means that since he reached the summit of Allapurna Peak (8,125 meters above sea level, the tenth highest peak in the world) on April 23 this year, Puja has reached 14 8,000-meter peaks around the world in just 6 months and 6 days, which is nearly 1 month ahead of the "7-month 14 Plan" he set up himself.
Nepal Climber Purjal has become the fastest person in the world to climb 14 peaks of 8,000 meters.
its team has declared on its official social account that Pujia has completed the feat of reaching all 14 peaks of 8,000 meters above sea level.
climbed 14 8,000-meter peaks around the world,
is a miracle!
This is the supreme cause!
created the myth of climbing in humans!
Project Possible
"14 seats in 7 months" completion timetable:
14, Shisha Pangma - October 29
13, Manaslu Peak (Manaslu Peak) - September 27
12, Zhuo Aoyou Peak (Cho Oyu Peak) - September 23
11, Bloat Peak (Broad Peak) - September 23
11, Bloat Peak (Broad Peak) - July 26
10, Qiaogoli Peak (Mt K2) – July 24
9, Gasherbrum II (Gasherbrum II) – July 18
8, Gasherbrum I (Gasherbrum I) – July 15
7, Nanga Parbat (Nanga Parbat ) – July 3
6, Makalu (Mt Makalu) – May 24
5, Everest (Mt Everest) – May 22
4, Lhotse (Mt Lhotse) – May 22
3, Gancheng Zhangjiafeng (Mt Kanchenjunga) – May 15
2, Daolagiri (Mt Dhaulagiri ) – May 12
1, Annapurna (Mt Annapurna) – April 23
For climbers, 14 8,000 meters are a purely great goal, and many people will take several years or even more than ten years to complete it. It not only means physical fitness, technology, equipment and financial preparation, but also depends on God's expression.
Previously, the fastest time for climbing 14 8,000 meters peaks in the world was 7 years! !
Since the "Climbing Emperor" Mesnar completed the climb of 14 8,000-meter peaks around the world in 1986, the "14 clubs" have become the dream hall for many high-altitude climbing enthusiasts.
All the 8000-meter peaks on the earth are concentrated on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau on the roof of the world and its continuation to the westward Pamir Plateau. This plateau is tall and wide, starting from Himalayas in the south, to Kunlun Mountains in the north, from the Hengduan Mountains in the east, and to Kashmir in the west. The two most famous mountain ranges on the plateau are the Himalayas and Karakoram. They are magnificent, like the highest display stand in the world raised by God, exhibiting all the 8,000-meter-level peaks in the world one by one.
Modern mountaineering originated in Europe. From the end of the 18th century to the end of the 19th century, mountaineering enthusiasts from various European countries successively completed the climbing of many peaks of more than 3,000--4,000 meters in the Alps, creating the "Golden Age of the Alps" in the history of human mountaineering.
As the conquest of the European peaks were exhausted, European climbers began to turn their attention to the distant Himalayas. They developed great interest and strong desire to challenge the 14 independent peaks above 8,000 meters standing there. Climbing 14 peaks above 8,000 meters is absolutely incredible for us ordinary people, but for those climbers who are brave enough to take risks, it has irresistible temptation.
Therefore, starting from the late 19th and early 20th century, climbers began to step on these towering dangerous peaks, and began a challenging journey of 8,000 meters. The Himalayan climbing boom in the early 20th century was a golden age in the history of human mountaineering. Countless heroes used their incredible courage to extend the Himalayan climbing boom to the more remote and steeper Karakoram on the earth...
14 independent peaks around the world above 8,000 meters are all located in the Himalayan Mountains and Karakoram Mountains. The international mountaineering community regards all climbing these peaks as an achievement. The 14 peaks are:
1. Everest - Everest Peak (referred to as Mount Everest, also known as the Virgin Peak, and is called Sakya Mata in Nepal)
The main peak of the Himalayas is known as the roof of the world. In Tibetan, jo-mo glang-ma ri means "mother of the earth". Geographical location: the middle section of the Himalayas at the junction of Dingji and Nepal, Tibet, China. Altitude: 8844 meters (measurement data on May 22, 2005) First successful summit record: On May 29, 1953, 34-year-old mountaineer from New Zealand (Edmund Hillary) as a British mountaineering team member and 39-year-old Nepali guide 1945 en:Tenzing Norgay climbed Mount Everest along the southeast ridge route. It was the first successful mountaineering team on the record. On May 25, 1960, the People's Republic of China climbed Mount Everest for the first time.
Tajik language means "the tall and majestic mountain". Geographical location: China's Xinjiang and Pakistan border, Kashmir, the main peak of the Karakoram Mountains. Altitude: 8611 meters
The first successful summit record: On July 31, 1954, the Italian mountaineering team climbed the Chogoli Peak from Pakistan on the south side for the first time.
Because it is remote and difficult, there are not many people climbing Gancheng Zhangjia. By the end of 1999, only 146 people climbed Gancheng Zhangjia Peak, which is the third last among the 14 8,000 meters, and there is only one woman among them, and 38 people died in this mountain.
It is called "Ding Jiexie Sangma" in Tibetan, meaning "a beautiful fairy".
Geographical location: the border between Dingji and Nepal in Tibet, China, the middle section of the Himalayas, south of Mount Everest.
Altitude: 8516 meters
First successful summit record: Swiss Mountaineers Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss first climbed this peak on May 18, 1956.
The name comes from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which represents great evil and is also the nickname of the supreme Lord Shiva in Hinduism. Her temperament is capricious, sometimes cruel and ruthless, and sometimes kind. There is another name in the local dialect of Makaru - the Kumba name karna, which means giant.
Geographical location: The border between Dingji and Nepal, Tibet, China, is located in the middle of the Himalayas.
Altitude: 8485 meters
The first successful summit record: In May 1955, the French mountaineering team crossed the saddle of the northwest ridge from the Kingdom of Nepal, reached the peak from the northwest side of China, and successfully climbed the first time to the Makaru Peak.
in Tibetan means "chief respect for teachers".
Geographical location: on the Himalayas at the junction of Dingji and Nepal, Tibet, China.
Altitude: 8201 meters
The first successful summit record: On October 19, 1954, the Austrian mountaineering team Kirch, Eyoril, Sherpa Pansinger and Panshadhawa climbed the peak along the north slope under the leadership of the Nepal guide.
means "white peak" in Sanskrit.
Geographical location: middle Himalayas, within Nepal.
Altitude: 8167 meters
First successful summit record: On May 13, 1960, an international joint mountaineering team climbed Xiangdaolagiri Peak for the first time.
Nepali calls it "Bengjie", which means "pile decoration". Manaslu is derived from Sanskrit "Manasa".
Geographical location: middle Himalayas, within Nepal.
Altitude: 8156 meters
The first successful summit record: On May 9, 1956, two Japanese mountaineering team members and Nepalese guides successfully reached the summit.
The name originated from the Sanskrit word "NangaParvata", meaning "naked mountain". There is also a meaning of "snow and electricity burn like fire". Kashmiris calls it "King of the Mountains". In the mountaineering world, it is called the "murdering mountain".
Geographical location: Pakistan, western section of the Himalayas.
Altitude: 8126 meters
The first successful summit record: In 1953, the joint mountaineering team of West Germany and Austria reached the top for the first time.
Geographical location: In Nepal, middle section of the Himalayas. The main peak is also known as "Kutang Peak". The fish tail peak on the southern edge has two peaks, which looks like a fish tail, hence the name.
Altitude: 8091 meters
The first successful top record: In 1950, two Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the top for the first time, but all their toes and fingers were removed due to frostbite.
means "a mountain with shining light".
Geographical location: Located at the boundary peak of the actual control area of Xinjiang, China and Kashmir region, Pakistan.
Altitude: 8068 meters
First successful top score record: On July 4, 1958, two members of the American mountaineering team successfully reached the top for the first time. Due to the complex and steep terrain on the Chinese side and frequent ice avalanches, no one has successfully reached the top from Dongpo so far.
Broad comes from the name of an American expedition member in 1892.
It has three main ridges: the North Ridge, the South Ridge and the Southwest Ridge. Among them, the north and south ridges are the main ridge of the Karakoram Mountains and the national boundary line. On these two ridges are the central peak (8016 meters) and the north peak (7538 meters). These three peaks are straight and abrupt, and are tattooed directly on the sky, so the locals call it "Fluoqing Jugang", which means "Sanjian Mountain".
Geographical location: Located in the Karakonlam Mountains, the actual control area of Pakistan in Xinjiang and Kashmir, China,
Altitude: 8047 meters
The first successful top record: In 1957, four talents from the Austrian team, Shulaik, Brie, Ginberger and Venberski, reached the peak on June 9th. Because the eastern slope of the mountain is steep and walled, it is particularly difficult to climb to the top, so no one has successfully climbed to the top from the eastern slope.
means "a mountain with a shining light".
Geographical location: Located on the main ridge of the Karakoram Mountains.The boundary peak of the actual controlled area of Pakistan in Xinjiang, China and Kashmir.
Altitude: 8035 meters
The first successful top record: The first record to conquer the peak were Austrians Flitz Moravik, Hans William Palchi, and Zep Lalech. They reached the summit on July 1, 1956 along the southwestern ridge (from Kashmir region).
means "harsh climate" in Tibetan.
Geographical location: In China, located in the middle of the Himalayas.
Altitude: 8027 meters
The first successful summit record: On May 2, 1964, the Chinese mountaineering team Xu Jing , Zhang Junyan, Wang Fuzhou, Wu Zongyue , Chen San, Sonam Doji, Cheng Tianliang, Mimazaxi, Doji and Yunden set a record of reaching the peak.
2. How difficult is it to climb 14 seats?
Around 1920, many mountaineering masters such as Britain and France began to focus on the world's highest Himalayas and Karakoram with the tension of national and military exploration. But the 8,000 climbing era was truly opened until the 1950s after the end of World War II. The history of the first climb of 14 8,000 meters, or all of them were first summited by humans lasted for 14 years, starting with Annapurna in 1950 and ending with the Shishabonma in 1964.
In the 14 years, from the mountaineering point of view, the seven first climbs from 1950 to 1955, can be said to be the golden age. From 1956 to 1964, it was the Silver Age.
The climbing in the golden age was first marked by height (mountain Everest), difficulty (K2, etc.). In the Silver Age, the relative height and difficulty have been reduced by one level.
Perhaps like human instinct, it seems that old farmers are digging sweet potatoes in the field. Those that look the biggest and most attractive are first dug out. This is the climbing of the seven peaks of the Golden Age.
Golden Age: Among the 8,000-meter peaks of Annapurna
14, the first one to be summited was not the most prominent K2 in the eyes of mountaineers, nor the highest Mount Everest admired by humans on earth, but the Annapurna peak located in northern and northern Nepal. The height of this mountain is only 10th, and the main peak I peak is 8091 meters above sea level, but its mortality rate (the ratio of death to the number of people reaching the top) ranks first.
There are 5 main peaks in Annapurna. As the "God of Reaper" in Nepal mythology, its frequent avalanches are like a scythe and machete, destroying the courage and body of the climber. The harsh and changing weather and complex ice and snow terrain are also its weapons.
(Please watch horizontally on your phone, Annapurna group, photographer Solundir)
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In the spring of 1950, World War II ended for many years, but no Western mountaineering team has climbed to the Himalayas. Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Rashner became the first climber to climb 8,000 meters after World War II. The leader Herzog has a tough personality, ambitiousness, and is even quite stubborn and domineering. His skills are a bit rough, but he has superhuman will and extraordinary physical strength.
These ambitious Frenchmen found only a rough map from India, and there was a lack of geographical information in that era. They watched and lingered between Doragiri and Annapurna for a month, and finally set Annapurna as their target, because the latter seemed a little easier. Doragiri's actual distance is much further than Annapurna.
Annapurna South Wall, picture from: wikipedia
Wearing World War II style military warm boots, leather coats, sweaters... From today's perspective, the equipment in that era was extremely simple. The French began to explore the road from the northeast wall, and the sections ahead were all unknown. This was the only time in the early 8,000-meter climb without pre-scoring. It is the rainy season of the Himalayas, with wind and snow raging, and there are few sunny days. They use herderly random choices to climb wherever they always climb, and they only know how to climb to a high place. After more than thirty days of suffering, they reached the highest point.At 2 pm on June 3, 1950, the climb of the first 8000-meter peak of mankind was so lucky to succeed!
In the eyes of climbers, Herzog is a bureaucrat, speculator, and a businessman with a gangster spirit. However, Herzog's book "Annapurna" written in 1952 has become a classic mountaineering book - he can tell stories and vividly depicts the thrilling and painful journey on the mountain.
Mount Everest
People in the world value Mount Everest more, so when the world's highest Mount Everest was summited only three years later, the honor and vision of the whole world were focused on Hillary and the others.
Among all the important days in the history of mountaineering, May 29, 1953 is a very rare date that has been solemnly recorded by historical books. At around 10 a.m. that day, two lonely human figures appeared on the highest peak of the earth under the blue sky. The mountain was decorated with snow layers extending from the 8,750-meter-high South Peak (Weifeng) to the top of the peak. The view was wonderful on this day. The tall and thin Hillary stopped to open the way in the last few meters. He waved to the short and strong Tenzin, and said, "This is your peak. You can step on the footprints of the first mountain top first."
Panoramic view of Mount Everest, the picture comes from Wikimedia Commons
Tenzin is the best climber in Asia that era. Hillary, a New Zealander, was originally a beekeeper, but he had rich mountain experience. In 1951, he had studied the Mount Everest route with the famous Shipton on the mountain near Mount Everest.
Just like the Germans' persistence in Nanga Palbat, after the British paid for the greatest Mallory of that era around 1920, the British became more obsessed with Mount Everest. The most difficult point for the Nepal side southeast route chosen for this climbing route is the 8,800-meter rock steps: the second step.
This is a steep rock staircase that is more than ten meters high. The rocks are smooth. If it is placed on a low-altitude flat ground, it may only have a difficulty coefficient of 5.8. Hillary, who was driving the road, did not climb the rock directly, but stuffed part of her body into the small crack between the rock and the snow brim, kicked the crampons into the snow and pressed the rock with her hands and back, and then rubbed it up a little bit... When she reached the narrow snow cap on the last peak, the gentleman New Zealander asked Tenzin to reach the top first.
Himary and Dianzeng
The competition for climbing Mount Everest in various countries has ended, but in fact, it has also begun a real era of climbing: the era of large-scale climbing in the Himalayas has arrived. Although the first time Mount Everest reached the summit in 1953, it was only a climber in two countries under the Commonwealth (Tenzin is an Indian), both of them gained international reputation without exception. The subjects of the Queen of England were excited by it, and people from other countries also reported this grand event, as excited as humans landed on the moon afterwards... At this time, the smell of blood from World War II had not completely dissipated, and the whole humans were still licking their wounds. This climb to the top also had a special fanatical significance. Hillary was named jazz for climbing the mountain.
(Please watch horizontally on your phone. One photo includes four peak groups: Mount Everest Group, Zhuo Aoyou Peak Group, Lhotse Group, and Makaru Peak Group. It is the ultimate. Photographer and labeler Lao J)
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Nangapalbat Peak
Also in 1953, a person had never received a fraction of the honor of Mount Everest climber in the mass media, but in the minds of climbers, he was the greatest climber of that era. This person is Hermann Boole. One man is a mountain: Nanga Palbat was a superman climb in 1953 because he reached the top alone. Before 1953, 31 people had died on Mount Nanga Palbat, and only more than 10 people died on Mount Everest.
(Please watch the phone horizontally, Nanga Palbat Peak Group, photographer Mountain Nerd)
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In May 1953, just as the British were fighting on Mount Everest, the team from Germany and Austria came to Nanga Palbat's base camp.This mountain has always been the demon of the Germans. In the Nazi era, Germany vigorously promoted the exploration of Asian rooftops with the banner of nationalism. At that time, reaching the top of 8,000 meters was considered to be one of the totems of the German national spirit. However, German mountaineers failed to succeed in this mountain, and most of the 31 climbers who died on the mountain were Germans. This is the most tragic scene in the history of mountain climbing.
On July 1, 1953, Boer and three others were in Highland C4, and the weather suddenly changed, but they refused to retreat. On July 2, Boole and Kempter established the C5 in the col between the 6900-meter-high ridge and the "Silver Saddl". There were only two of them on the mountain at this time. The weather looks very stable.
Mountains and routes when climbing. Image source: mountainsoftravelphotos.com
At 1.00 am on July 3, Buhl left the C5 camp and climbed upwards. Kempter and his poor climbing chose to go down the mountain. The snow is in good condition, the night sky is clear, and the moonlight shines on the mountains. At 6 p.m., Boer reached his shoulders, and an hour later he reached the top. The surroundings were very quiet and the sky was extremely clear. Nanga Palbat's chapter was turned over by the man standing alone at the top.
This very famous photo is a snapshot taken by Boole when he met his teammate when he was down.
At this time, the boolean is so dehydrated that it is almost speechless. Image source: alpklubspb.ru
Humans completed the third 8000 meters at this time. Boer later spent 41 hours reaching the top of his hallucination, rolling and climbing down the mountain, and when he arrived at the base camp, he looked 10 years older. This climb is considered a great feat in the history of mountaineering. Bull believes: "Climbing is a ruthless pursuit. A person climbs farther and farther, but he can never reach his destination. Perhaps this is the special charm of climbing. A person has always pursued something that can never be achieved."
K2 (Jogoli Peak)
The 4th 8000 meters is a great page, and K2 is located in the Sino-Pakistan border of the Karakoram Mountains. Although it is geographically a distant branch of the Himalayas, its location is still unique due to the isolation of the Indus River. From the perspective of climbers, the Karakoram series of peaks are the most charming part of the world's greatest mountain range of Himalayas. At 8611 meters above sea level, K2 proudly emerges independently, just like the emperor on the throne. K2 is far more difficult than Mount Everest. Therefore - the mountain K2 has more human dramatic adventures associated with it, including many tragedies.
K2, picture from: wikipedia
1954, the Italian expedition was led by the famous geographer Professor Atito. From a technical point of view, even if the traditional K2 route is the simplest of the K2 route, it has seen many mixed rock, ice and snow climbs from an altitude of 5,500 meters, which is quite difficult. Going higher, K2 is either a steep and uncovered, wind-torn ridge or has to marching in a valley with frequent avalanches.
For a considerable period of time, bad weather has hindered the progress of the expedition. The expedition established 6 camps along the southeast ridge and also established a campsite of 8,400 meters from Camp No. 9. The final climb from C9 is still full of huge challenges in technology and physical strength. Finally, on the morning of July 31, Reno Resdelli and Achille Compagnoni (Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni) made a successful top-top at 6 p.m. In this way, the mystery of K2 was unveiled.
The end of the golden age: Zhuo Aoyou Peak
The fifth 8000 meters is the most dullest chapter of the "Golden Age": In 1954, Zhuo Aoyou, the sixth peak in the world. This climb had a dramatic turn, with three people climbing the top along the northwest slope, including the Austrian Hebot and the Sherpa Dava Lama - this is considered a sneak climb, because they first climbed from Nepal, but found that the route was difficult, and they turned to the northwest slope line in China to reach the top. This line is still the relatively simplest of all 8,000-meter mountain routes so far. Therefore, Zhuo Aoyou is also praised by everyone as the easiest mountain for 8,000-meter mountain.
Gancheng Zhangjia Peak and Makaru Peak and
And the sixth and seventh 8000 meters are so lonely, but they are diamond climbing in the golden age: in 1955,Gancheng Zhangjia and Makaru, the third and fifth peaks in the world, are more technically difficult than the conventional routes of Mount Everest, especially the former route into the mountain is a long hike that tests physical strength and patience.
Gancheng Zhangjia is a huge awesome ice wall that separates India's Sikkim and Nepal. To date, the mountain is still one of the fewest peaks among the 14 8,000 meters, which greatly increases its mystery. The climbers who died in this mountain are the best mountaineers in the world. On May 25, 1955, George Bond, a veteran of the British climbing Mount Everest, arrived at the main peak of 8596 with outstanding rookie Brown.
Gancheng Zhangjia Mountain, the picture comes from www.holidify.com
, and Makaru is the achievement of the French. This mountain is 8,463 meters high, and is a huge pyramidal peak with rock and ice mixed on the east side of Mount Everest, and the conventional difficulty is greater than Mount Everest. But they were particularly lucky. The capricious Himalayan weather gave the French a clear week this time. Finally, on May 15, 1950 Annapurna member Lionel and others reached the peak without encountering any difficulties.
Makaru Peak, picture from: wikipedia
With the help of Sherpa people, the seven peaks of the Golden Age are 3 Austrian teams (including Germany), 2 French teams and 2 British teams (or British teams). This was the honor of the country at that time, and to some extent it was also a national competition in the era of opposition between the East and the West, especially for the communist camp of the Soviet Union/China, compared with the Western capitalist camp. There is no doubt that in the Golden Age, mountaineers from the old Alpine powers in Western Europe still control the highest stage of mountaineering.
Silver Age: After the end of the Golden Age, the remaining seven peaks were not so eye-catching in terms of difficulty and height. Especially for the public media, the achievements of the remaining 8,000-meter peaks were inevitably ranked relatively secondary. But mountaineers are still enthusiastic about the fun and honor of the first climb of 8,000 meters.
In May 1956, the Japanese team from the East successfully climbed the first time in the avalanche of Manaslu, which was the most difficult or dangerous mountain in the Silver Age. Japan is the country with the most traditional mountaineering tradition among the Eastern countries. This summit also inspired the national morale of this little giant in World War II who first invaded and then failed, and also heralds the recovery of Japan's economic path to a strong country since the 1950s.
Manaslu Peak, picture from: wikipedia
Louzi, Gashublum II Peak
A few days later in the same year, the Swiss expedition team made an amazing achievement: at the same time, it climbed the close-kick of Mount Everest and Mount Everest, which also made a perfect compensation for the Swiss team's failed trip to Mount Everest in 1952.
In July of the same year, three Austrians came to the depths of Pakistan, and Fritz Moravik and others climbed to the peak of the Gashublum II, which is ranked 13th in the altitude ranking list.
Bloat Peak
1957, ranked 12th on the Bloat Peak. This is one of the fewest 8,000-meter peaks to climb and reach the top. On June 9, 1957, Cott Daimberg and Hermann Boole stood on the top of Buh Peak. Today, Kot Daimberg is a few fossil-class world-class mountaineering people who are still alive - this climber from the Tirlo region of Austria. From the 1950s to the 1990s, he was in the Himalayas and Karakoram.
Bufeng climbed. Because of his injury in Nanga Palbat, Bull walked very slowly. On the eve of the top, he asked Daimberg, who was formed with him, to join the team of Wintersteal and Shamack. The three of them successfully reached the top at 6 pm. On the way down, Daimberg was surprised to find that Boole was still climbing. It was already 6:30 pm. At this time, he went to the top and "must be crazy."But Boer slowly moved up step by step, his eyes slow and firm, looking ahead. The tall and thin man was like a lazy and dull old cat. His injury delayed his speed and showed his steely will. Daimberg was moved and accompanied Boer to go back to the top again... He reached the top. At 9 pm, in the glory of dusk, he realized the "true meaning of life". It was only in the early morning that they returned to the 6950M C3.
Bloat Peak's English name broad peak comes from an American mountaineering team in 1892. The reason for the naming is the vast peak that is nearly one kilometer long (some say it is taken from the name of a member of the team). The peak has three main ridges, namely the main peak (8051 meters above sea level), the Wei peak (8016 meters above sea level) and the North peak (7550 meters above sea level). Image source: gripped.com
This is the first time Bufeng has reached the summit, and all four of the climbers have surpassed their time. They showed people a new way to climb 8,000 meters of mountain - without large teams and mountain collaboration, anaerobic tops are rushed. In other words, they "don't cooperate or set up fixed road ropes for protection", so that they created a new way of climbing on the Great Himalayas line now called the "Alpine Way". The old method is called the "Himalayan method": the team is huge, the road rope is set, and a lot of cooperation is used, just like the army fighting - therefore, this method is also called the "legion method" and "siege".
Gashburum I Peak and Doragiri Peak
8000m peaks have not yet ended. In 1958, the United States team reached the top of Gashburum I Peak. This is the first time that an American has climbed G1, and it is also the first time that an American among the 8,000 peaks. The Americans have always been unique in favor of K2. Although the first honor of K2 was "snatched" by the Italians, the mountaineering industry undoubtedly maintained a high evaluation and respect for the efforts of the US team in K2. K2 also laid the foundation for the Americans' world-class status in the Himalayas, although they did not first climb K2. Therefore, the success of the I Peak of Gashublum this time is taken for granted in everyone's opinion.
Doragiri Peak, picture from: wikipedia
1960, five people including Kot Daimberg of Austria, Kut, Sherbanima Doji of Switzerland and others came to the top of Dolagiri. This peak, ranked 7th in height, is one of the most remote and remote peaks. Its southern wall is like a pyramid, with an extended false peak in front of the pyramid, called the "Little Eiger North Wall" - which most climbers call an unclimbable route. Avalanches, thunder and rock lines are the characteristics of this mountain. The climbing height is 3000 meters.
For any 8000 meters, whether to reach the top or not is not the most important thing. What is important is that new exploration should be made. The southern wall of Daofeng is the highest and unclimbed snow rock mixed route in the world. The peak is like a castle, towering in the "forbidden zone of life", the air is fresh and yet lacks oxygen. The climb was relatively smooth, and Cott Daimberg became the first white climber to reach the top of two 8,000 meters, and both of them were first climbed.
Xishabangma Peak
In this way, by the spring of 1960, all 13 8,000-meter peaks in the world had achieved human summit. But there is still the last one, and the 14th-ranked Xishabangma, still remains virgin. In fact, the first climb of this mountain was announced to the end of the 14 8,000-meter races four years later. This year, the Chinese focused their attention on the northern line of Mount Everest, because this symbolic meaning and political and spiritual power were even more grand for Chinese thinking and even ideology...
Chinese also have reasons to give themselves the last treasure of honor. Back then, European and American teams were blocked by the gate of honor that China blocked. After all, Xishabangma was the only mountain with all the mountains in China. Xixiabangma finally made the Chinese dream come true in 1964. On May 2 of that year, six Han and four Tibetans reached the top of this mountain north of the Himalayan watershed.
(Please watch horizontally on your phone, Xixiabang Mafeng Group, photographer and labeler Lao J)
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The competition in the last sky has finally come to an end.The final report card was completed 7 times in Austria, 2 in the UK, 2 in France, 2 in Switzerland (once was a cooperation with Austria), 1 in the US team, 1 in Germany (topped by the Austrian), 1 in Japan and 1 in China.
From 14 first climbs from 1950 to 1964, all the 8,000-meter peaks have realized the footprints of humanity.
But the pursuit of mountaineer has not stopped.
The new era mountaineer has become the game goal of a few mountaineers for a certain statement, for a new pursuit goal, or for an explanation of explanation.
The first person to "pick up" 14 8,000-meter concepts is the Italian super climber Reinhold Messner. He is the first person to complete the anaerobic summit of Mount Everest. From 1970 to 1986, Mesnar took the lead in 16 years to reach all 14 8,000-level peaks.
Mesnar's autobiography reads: "According to the top of all 8,000-meter peaks in the world are not worthy of my pride; all my successes are not worthy of my pride; there is only one thing that deserves my pride, I survived." This also reflects the difficulty of challenging 14 8,000 meters from the side.
Of course, Mesnar's greatest achievement is not the first person to complete 14 8,000 meters, but to apply free climbing in a comprehensive and systematic manner in 8,000 meters, even if he is not the first person to try free climbing in a 8,000 meters.
From then on, one person climbed the top of "14" to open a very attractive new goal for the world's mountaineering.
33 In the past 1933, about 40 climbers around the world have joined the club, and more people have fallen before the number 14.
Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber in the world to complete 14 8,000 meters on September 18, 1987 (only two years later, he died on October 24, 1989), and the plan lasted for 7 years, 11 months and 14 days. And most of it is done on new routes and winter climbs. To be precise, he opened 9 new routes (some say 11)—one of which was a single person—5 A-style climbs and four winter summits, and only one winter climb used oxygen.
Even Mesnar commented on him like this: Kukuchika has created so many new routes, and he is perhaps the greatest mountaineer of all time.
Before Pujia, the fastest record of "completed 14 8,000-meter peaks" was 7 years, 10 months and 6 days.
Kim Chang-ho, a Korean climber in 2013, lasted 7 years, 10 months and 6 days. (He is also the first Korean to climb 14 peaks of the world above 8,000 meters without using auxiliary oxygen; he also set a record of completing this feat in the shortest time. Unusually, using "eco-friendly" method to reach Everest base camp in 60 days using "kayaking, bicycle and hiking" instead of flying to Lukra.)
If it weren't for unspeakable reasons, there should be two Chinese female climbers here, but due to some unspoken rules in the industry, they missed it, which was a pity.
attached. The list of 14 8000 meters has been completed previously:
(Editor's note: The 40th place is Chinese mountaineer Zhang Liang , and his 14 14 are in doubt.)
3. Pujia and his "possibility plan"
As long as you devote yourself to it, everything is possible...
Nirmal Purja
Nirma Pujia launched the "possibility plan" Project Possible at the end of April this year. He claimed that he would climb all 8000 meters of mountains around the world within 7 months, with a total of 14.
At the beginning, no one took the new mountaineer Pujia seriously. After all, there is never a shortage of "thinking dreams" in the mountaineering circle. Since the "Climbing Emperor" Mesnar climbed 14 8,000-meter peaks around the world in 1986, the "14 Clubs" have become the dream palace for many high-altitude climbing enthusiasts.
check-in 14 seats at the peak of 8,000 meters. It is extremely difficult. Most people will take more than 10 years, and the fastest one will be nearly 8 years. Pujia will complete 14 seats in 7 months? A fantasy! The project is also compared to the "Moon Landing Plan of the Mountaineering World".
"I want people all over the world to see me and see my plan. I am an ordinary person, born in the countryside... This is not my personal plan, it is for everyone... I set up such a record, hoping to inspire the next generation in Nepal..."
Nilma Puja is an ordinary Nepali native, not Sherpa. He was born in the low-altitude Nepalese countryside Dana and grew up in the Chitwan area further south, less than 1,000 meters above sea level. That is to say, the childhood pictures of Puja were not the giant mountain peaks of the Himalayas, but the warm Indian style: rivers, elephants and tropical plants.
But he didn't want to be a mountaineer at that time. "Being a Gurkha soldier was my only dream, that was the only thing I had to do!"
Puja's dream became a reality. He joined the Gurkha (Gurkha; kuo er ka;) mercenary corps in 2003 to serve the British military forces. Later, he became the first Gurkha to join the elite special boat service, becoming a holder of multiple world records.
In December 2012, Nilma Puja fell in love with this mountain while exploring at Mount Everest Base Camp. He said: "I like the road...but it was just the scenery, and I felt the feeling of standing on the top of the mountain to enjoy the scenery. He successfully convinced his guide to teach him how to "really" climb ("training" included learning how to use crampons), and soon after, he and his guide successfully completed the 6119-meter-high Lobuche East. It was his first peak.
Since then, Nilma Puja uses the holiday he got from the special forces to climb 8000 meters high peaks. In 2010, he started preparing for Doragiri and completed the round trip from Kathmandu to the summit in 14 days, and he did not do any upfront altitude adaptation.
"It usually takes two months for people to climb these mountains, and that's when I realized I'm good at climbing at high altitudes. "He talked about climbing these mountains so carelessly that you would think he was just walking with his dog.
Nilma Puja entered the Special Forces Mountaineering Force in 2014 and became the head of extreme cold weather operations as a coach. Three years later, when Gurkha mercenaries first tried to climb Mount Everest (although this was his second) he was one of their main guides.
This special Mount Everest expedition became more difficult due to the harsh weather, But thanks to Nirma Puja, Gurkha mercenaries first climbed Mount Everest on May 15, 2017.
Nilma Puja and his team returned to Kathmandu for a "party for a week". Then Nirma Puja once again climbed Mount Everest in extreme weather, "I have a photo on my Instagram, my face was burnt by the wind, and there were only 4-5 climbers on the top of the mountain, which was really hard. ”
After Mount Everest, Nilma Pujaden topped the Lhotse Peak, stayed in Nanmuche for two days to attend the party, and then climbed the Makaru Peak—all of which were done in five days. He said: “If it weren’t for the party, I might have done it in three minutes.” "
It's obvious that Nilma Puja's physiology allows him to operate for a long, high intensity under extremely harsh conditions. But for most people, what he does is almost impossible—even he can't give a straight answer.
He says he eats only "foods that can be found in the kitchen" and does not eat anything "weird" like energy gels or protein supplements.
He says his friends in the army may take a month to recover from Mount Everest, and he can go again the next day. "It's hard to tell if his physiology is different without observing Nilma Puja in the lab," Ash Lawton (Ash) Routen said. Lawton has a PhD in sports science and is also an expert in adventure travel.
"His ability to recover seems extraordinary, but before we get some relevant data, the way he recovers is pure guess."
Anyway, it was after these fast climbs that Nimus realized that "there is a lot to do in the mountaineering world", so the idea of "Popularity Plan" was born.
Puja's "Popularity Plan" (Project) Possible) Phase 1: Spring Nepal, completing Annapurna Peak (8,091 meters), Doragiri Peak (8,167 meters), Ganchengzhangjia (8,586 meters), Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makaru. Phase 2: Summer Pakistan, completing Nanga Palbat Peak (8,126 meters), and Gashublum I Peak (8 ,080 meters), Gashublum II Peak (8,036 meters), Bloat Peak (8,051 meters) and Jogoli Peak (8,611 meters).
Phase III: Manaslu Peak (8163 meters), Zhuoyou Peak (8188 meters)
Dang Nierma Puja's 7-month 14 plans are called "Possible Plan" ( When the news of ‘Project Possible’ began to spread in the mountaineering circle, no one took him seriously. The reason is not difficult to understand.
First of all, the former British Gurkha mercenary soldier Nilma Puja was quite unfamiliar with mountaineering, and no one knew who he was.
In addition, the fastest time for conquering 14 8,000-meter peaks was 7 years, 10 months and 6 days, and was 2013 by South Korean climber Kim Changho (Kim Chang-ho) set. Before that, the world record set by Polish mountaineer Kukuska was 7 years, 11 months and 14 days.
Nilma Puja's 7 months and 14 proposals not only sound ridiculous, but also like a fantasy--he might as well tell everyone that he was going to swim on the moon.
Nilma Puja began his plan. But he soon learned on the mountain of Annapurna that the "probable plan" is not just about climbing.
At around 2 pm on April 23, 2019, Puja climbed Annapurna, opening up his "possible plan" that people think is impossible.
Annapurna is one of the 8 8,000-meter peaks in Nepal and the deadliest mountain in the world. 191 climbers have successfully reached the summit, and 61 people have died in the climb, that is, 34 of every 100 climbers cannot come back.
After Annapurna peak, Puja returned to the base camp. Hearing a message: A Malaysia climbing mountain The man had already reached the peak of Annapurna, but gradually lost consciousness when he was down and fell down. His Sherpa left him the only little oxygen and returned to Camp 4 to try to find someone to rescue him. However, none of the 30 climbers in the camp that day were willing to lend a helping hand. The Malaysian climber was trapped on the mountain for more than 36 hours, and everyone thought he would die.
At 6 a.m., a helicopter landed at the base camp. A Sherpa jumped out of the plane and ran into Nilma Puja's tent and told him that they saw the missing Malaysian climber wave at 7,500 meters high. He did not Death...
Puja got on the helicopter and flew over the missing persons found, as the Sherpas said, the missing person was waving, he knew his only option was to rescue. But because the altitude was too high and the helicopter was inaccessible, any rescue operation had to be carried out from below.
"Imagine that you were exposed to extreme weather and at high altitude for nearly two days, and when you see a helicopter, you thought you were about to be rescued...but it flew away... I empathized with me, I just put myself in the position of the trapped person... We returned to the camp and prepared for rescue. ”
prepares to take a helicopter to rescue the trapped
rescue team was landed under Camp No. 3 by Nilma Puja and his most trusted mountaineering partner in helicopter. On the day of the summit, the other teams took 18 hours to complete the journey, but they only took four hours.
They found the trapped Malaysian mountaineer - he was sober, but his body temperature was too low and he was frostbite. He was rescued to the base camp before 6 a.m. the next morning, and then was sent directly to Kathmandu Hospital, where his wife was waiting for him, and then transferred back to Singapore .
The 48-year-old climber was trapped at an altitude of 7500 meters for nearly 40 hours, without water, food and oxygen, and eventually died in the hospital on May 2, 2019 due to his injuries.
Because Nilma Puja's involvement in the rescue operation took him some time in Annapurnado, which means he missed the summit window of the next planned mountain, Doragiri (8167m), and he had to wait another week before he could reach the summit.
No matter what, Nilma Puja went to Doragiri and climbed the Doragiri at 6pm on May 12. Damn weather, winds were 60-70 km/h, we completely missed the good weather, but we had to climb to the summit and go to the next peak anyway.
Daolagiri peak
Out the whole evening, we were all retreating, returned to the base camp at 8 am, packed our luggage, and returned to Kathmandu by helicopter at 3 pm. After arriving in Kathmandu, we celebrated with our friends, returned to the airport at 6 am, and arrived at the base camp in Gancheng Zhangjiafeng (8586 meters) at 11 pm to prepare for the third summit.
Gancheng Zhangjia Peak is the third highest peak in the world and the third on the Nilma Puja climbing list. Most people who climb Gancheng Zhangjiafeng go up to one camp a day, sleep, and then continue to the next camp. But Nilma Puja's compact schedule means he has to top the base camp directly.
Nilma Puja and his team are seriously lacking in sleep if they stop, they will really fall asleep. "It's dangerous, we overcome the difficulties by moving quickly. We walked very fast, so we couldn't fall asleep. It took only 22 hours and 30 minutes to complete the climbing of Gancheng Jangjia.
There are many styles of climbing in the mountaineering world today. For purists, it's not for climbing for mountaineering, but for seeing how to reach the top.
Some climbers may choose the simplest and most mature route, use bottled oxygen, and climb with the help of Sherpas without oxygen or fixed routes, or choose new or unusual routes, which are often praised by these purists.
For example, Korean Kim Chang-ho (Kim) Chang-ho and Polish mountaineer Kukuska basically completed 14 8,000-meter peaks without oxygen (Jinchang-ho is completely free of oxygen), and many of Kukuska climbs used the original route.
Throughout the project, Nilma Puja used bottled oxygen (he only started from a high camp at about 7,500 meters above sea level), fixed routes and Sherpa.
Nilma Puja's original goal was to complete the project without oxygen, but in 2016 he met a female climber on Mount Everest who needed rescue but was left on Mount Everest by her team, so he changed his mind.
Nilma Puja brought oxygen at the time and completed the rescue in 1 hour and 45 minutes. If he doesn't have oxygen, he can't save her, and it's almost certain that they will all die during the rescue.
When Nilma Puja descended to 8450 meters on the Changcheng Jungjia peak, the team found that a Sherpa team and an Indian climber were hypoxia, just below 100 meters. This situation reappeared and they found another climber from the same team, who had HACE (high-altitude brain edema). Nilma Puja gave him oxygen and left no oxygen himself.
" From this point of view, it's fatal to get rid of oxygen at an altitude of 8450 meters, 99.9% of people climbed without oxygen, and it's difficult for their bodies to adapt. Deficiency of oxygen at high altitudes is equivalent to suicide, and your body is not ready yet. "
But the team had no choice. After more than 10 hours of asking for help on the radio, Nilma Puja realized that no one else was coming." Camp 4 had more than 40 people, single climbers, mountaineers, no matter what they claimed to be - no one came to help. ”
At this time, the climber had already started to suffer from frostbite, and Nilma Puja sent him back to the camp. “We were only half an hour away from Camp 4 and he ran out of oxygen. He died within 15 minutes, he died in our arms.”
Finally, Nilma Puja and his teammates also started to experience HACE symptoms, and despite the team's superhuman efforts, neither of the two Indian climbers were able to go down the mountain alive that day. Nilma Puja did not stay in Camp 4 for long. He said: “I know people will be troubled by these kinds of problems, which is difficult to deal with, and I just don't like those who stand by and watch. I don't want to talk to anyone. I went straight to the base camp, called a helicopter, flew away, I just wanted to stay alone..."
"We completed the entire rescue operation without oxygen, but he died in only 15 minutes. I hate people asking me why I need to take oxygen to climb mountaineering, which is why. That's why oxygen is important to me. "
After Gancheng Zhangjia Mountain, he climbed Mount Everest (8848 meters), Lhotse (8516 meters) and Makaru (8481 meters). On the day he climbed Mount Everest, he wanted to break his record on Mount Everest, but was "traffic jam" for 7.5 hours. During this period, he took the famous traffic jam photo of Mount Everest.
In short, he climbed six 8,000-meter-high peaks in Nepal in just 31 days, and conducted 4 accidental rescues during this period. The first phase of the project has been completed.
In the second phase, Nilma Puja will go to Pakistan to climb Nanga Palbat (Nanga). Parbat, 8126 meters above sea level, Gashublum I (8010 meters above sea level), Gashublum II (8035 meters above sea level) and K2 (8611 meters above sea level).
He has shown the world what he can do in the first stage, and now the whole world wants to see if his plan can be completed.
Nilma Puja completed the second phase of the "possible project" in 23 days.
in Gashublum I
If you think this sounds fast, it is because he sets 6 world speed records. Except for the Garhublum who he thinks will die I, and for the first time, doubting his ability in K2 (there are bad weather, 90% of climbers have given up climbing), everything went relatively smoothly.
At the end of September 2019, Nims started the third phase and reached the top of Zhuoyou Peak and Manaslu Peak within a week.
Puja at Manaslu Peak Base Camp
He is proud of his achievements, including setting multiple fast climbing records.
He said: "You have to trust your abilities." "
" You always need to have a positive mindset because sometimes things go wrong, but... you can turn the impossible into possible. "
If you ask Nilma Puja how he climbed high mountains in bad weather, even in low sleep, or even in low places, he would say. "Mentality". When no one dared to walk out of the tent, I climbed up. Keep this mentality and make a decision. So far, the reason for my success is the decision I made."
He compared mountain climbing to swimming, and he said that if someone drowned, the first thing they would do was to catch the person closest to him. "You can see the same thing in the death zone - people are just trying to survive," he said.
Although the project started out as a personal behavior of Nilma Puja to test his own limits, now he says it's about human limits.
Puja is climbing the zhuoyoufeng
"I got a lot of information from the Gurkha people, the Royal Marines, the young officers and people, and they said what I was doing is amazing.
But I just want people around the world to see this and see this vision, I am a rural child, born in the countryside... It's not just my project, it's a project belonging to everyone.
Reinhold Messner (Reinhold Messner saw this vision. He was one of the most respected mountaineering athletes in the history of mountaineering.
In the second phase, Nilma Puja met Mesner in Nanga Palbat, a hero in his mind and one of the inspiration for the mission.
"He looked into my eyes and said, 'You can do it,'" Nimes recalled.When Mesner planned to climb all 8,000 meters of peaks, the entire mountaineering community opposed him, but he proved with his strength that he could do it...
When the whole world could not see his vision, he did it. "Puja wanted to make it public, and he wanted to push himself to the limit in the only way he knew, showing the world what a man from Nepal could do.
In the process, he received a lot of honors, including being given British nationality by the Queen of England, and the nickname of "Superman".
But he really just wanted to inspire people, he said. "People wrote me and told me that I inspired them to do what they always wanted to do. I feel very honored to be able to inspire people. ”
There is no doubt that this Nepali has proved to the world that in this country at the foot of the Himalayas, is not only a porter, but also the world's top climber.
Obviously, Puja is not an ordinary person, physically and mentally different. But he underestimated his achievements. He did not do this to become famous. He hoped to tell people that they should never settle down. Go far away to do what they always want to do.
Nilma Puja complete the mountain list
Maybe it was the scenery of Mount Everest base camp that made Nilma Puja fall in love with mountaineering for the first time, but it was the perspective gained from these mountains that allowed his love to continue...
"But do you know? When I walk into the mountains...those mountains tell me that I am nothing..."
* This article refers to the following official accounts related articles: [Nepal Alpine Exploration], [Sheerpa Alpine Exploration], [Himalaya Times], [Planet Research Institute], [Outdoor Exploration Outdoor ]......
* Some information comes from Wikipedia and Baidu Encyclopedia
* The pictures are from the Internet. If there is any infringement, please contact us to delete
(Source: Ai Tianya, only for non-commercial information transmission. If there is any infringement, please contact us, we will delete it in the shortest time and apologize.)
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