Compilation: Mintina
In the spring of 2021, climbers connect fixed ropes to climb Annapurna I peak
Photo provided: Basanlam Sherpa Akita
With the start of spring mountaineering in Himalayas , a large number of people who rely on high-altitude mountaineering industry to earn income gathered together: porters, guides, heads of expedition companies, helicopter pilots, base camp staff.
But over the past few years, a whole new group of climbers have appeared here. Typically, they are members of a full-service commercial expedition team. Sometimes they rush from one mountain to the next, with the goal of completing as many peaks as possible before the end of the season. They are collectors of the eight thousand meters peaks.
Sophie Lavaud will climb his 13th 8,000-meter mountain this spring mountain climbing season. Last fall, in the picture, she stood with Dawa Sanjay at the top of Daolajiri Peak
part background
Not long ago, climbing to the top of an 8,000-meter mountain was still a lifelong dream of a climber. This dream peak is hardly Everest : the altitude here is too high (at that time the auxiliary oxygen had limited functions), and it was too expensive.
Climbers will hone their skills before trying the "easiest" eight thousand-meter peak. Typically, these are relatively lower peaks – Xixia Bangma Peak (8,027 meters above sea level), Jiashublum II Peak (8,035 meters above sea level), Zhuo Aoyou Peak (8,201 meters above sea level) side of China Tibet Autonomous Region. Success at any giant mountain will bring some local reputation and sponsorship to these climbers when they return home.
Climbing peaks at eight thousand meters continuously
These things sound quite strange now. At that time, some people who might become professional climbers were satisfied with completing only an eight-kilometer mountain, at least if they wanted to build their own career map with it, that was enough. At the same time, some people patiently devoted years to climb all 14 peaks of 8,000 meters in a step-by-step manner. However, the development of technology and logistics has accelerated the climbing of their 8,000-meter-level mountain peaks.
Antonios Sykaris will try again after a failed attempt last spring (due to the novel coronavirus outbreak at the base camp), Doragiri Peak
Photo provided by: Antonios Sykaris
Nima Puga Magar showed the world his shocking strength and technical ability during the six months and six days of climbing all 14 peaks of eight-kilometer level. He also showed local businessmen and their potential customers how to most fully meet the possible logistics conditions of the Himalayas mountaineering season, especially in Nepal (now only can commercial helicopters be transported in Nepal, Pakistan will only send military helicopters if the team pays funds in an emergency).
helicopters, auxiliary oxygen and pre-fixed ropes allow climbers in excellent health to climb two or three peaks in a single climbing season. They only need to undergo altitude adaptation training before heading to the first peak, and the unlimited auxiliary oxygen can even shorten the process further.
On the next few peaks, the first suitable weather cycle is suitable for attempts to rush to the top. Logistics have been in place. Base camp, higher altitude camp, Sherpa assists and fixes ropes. When the monsoon season arrives and Nepal climbing ends, some people travel to Pakistan, where the climbing season has just begun. There, they continued to try the peaks on the list, Nanga Palbat Peak, Qiaogoli Peak, /K2 Peak, or other peaks in Karakoram Mountains.
Viridiana Alvarez from Mexico has climbed the world's three highest peaks in two years. In 2021, she reached the summit of Annapurna Peak and Doragiri Peak. This spring, she set her sights on Makaru Peak . “Climbers, public speakers, executive contestants and social practitioners,” she wrote on her website.
From , seven continents, seven peaks with the highest altitude of to 14 peaks with eight thousand meters,
Not long ago, completing the seven peaks with the highest altitude of the seven continents in the world (www.2himalaya.com, [World] How to climb the seven peaks with the highest altitude of the seven continents in the world) is enough to start your career, but this is already yesterday. Now, with the continued increase in the number of climbers trying 14 8km-level peaks, which was once the area that the most top climbers could enter. Moreover, they hope to complete the climb as quickly as possible and make full use of all logistics conditions to further speed up.
Based on age, personal status or nationality, many of them have created some firsts. This is why many people come from countries where mountaineering traditions are relatively weak. There are still many women here that can achieve the first time at the 8,000-meter-level peak.
This past winter, Grace Tseng from Taiwan Province, China took photos on Qiaogoli Peak/K2 Peak
Photo provided: Grace Tseng
Age, nationality, gender
For example, this mountaineering season, Sophie Lavaud will try his 13th 8km level peak, Lhotzi Peak . As a citizen of France, Switzerland and Canada, she hopes to set records in three countries. Grace Tseng from Taiwan Province, China is ready to get rid of the failed winter attempts of Jogoli/K2 peak to head to Annapurna. She started climbing the eight-kilometer mountain for only two years. This spring, she is still the only client of the Dolma Outdoor Expedition team led by Nima Gezeng. She further announced that she would not use auxiliary oxygen.
Adriana Brownlee from the UK seems to be following his mentor, Nima Puga Magar's feet (and heights reached). Led by Pugga’s strong Elite Exped team, Brownlee first dabbled in the Himalayas last year. She has been summiting Mount Everest, Manaslu and Doragiri (with 34 hours of risk, completed in one go without a stop).
is now only 21 years old, and she hopes to be the youngest climber to successfully climb all 14 8km peaks within a few years. This spring, she plans to climb Gancheng Zhangjia Peak, Luozi Peak and Makaru Peak. Just on March 28, she decided to add Annapurna Peak as the beginning. She called this place her "altitude adaptation peak".
Ambitional young power meets: Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan and the British, Adrianna Brownlee
Photo provided by: Adriana Browlnee
Always more and more
Shehroze Kashif not only wants to be a Pakistani climber who climbs all 14 8km peaks, but he also wants to be the youngest person to achieve this achievement. At the age of 17, when he reached the top of Buluat Peak, he called himself the "Buluat Boy". Last year, he summited Mount Everest, Chogoli/K2 and Manaslu. This year, like Brownlee, he plans to try Gancheng Zhangjiafeng, Luozifeng and Makaru.
Obviously, there are many other climbers now trying to climb 14 × 8,000 8km-level peaks: Viridiana Alvarez from Mexico, Brazilian people, Moeses Fiamoncini and Argentina Juan Pablo Sarjanovich, Australian Jackson Groves, Arjun Vajpai from India, in addition to Nepali, Purnima Shrestha, Basanlam Sherpa, Mayan Sherpa and others.
Exploratory is no longer there, but it allows possible climbs to accelerate
Use helicopters, fixed ropes, eight liters of auxiliary oxygen per minute and a lot of Sherpa support, while speeding up the possible climb, it obviously makes the mountaineering lose most of its expedition. However, this also increases the safety of people getting off the car and returning. It seems that the past independent adventures, or the Alpine style self-sufficiency team, has long gone in the era of unclimbing the route.
At the same time, this meets the requirements of impatient young people – or older – who do not have much climbing or technical experience. This also complements each other for the prosperous Nepal adventure industry.
Uta Ibrahini is the first Kosovo people to reach the top of six 8,000-meter-level peaks. She hopes that Makaru Peak can become the seventh 8,000-meter-level peak she has completed. In 2019, she also joined Hong Sun-Taek/Hong Chengze's team to try Luozifeng South Bian
Photo provided: Uta Ibrahini
Information source: Angela Benavides
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