Taiwan’s food is closely related to the mainland. / Taipei Shilin Night Market
In Taiwan, beef noodles range from street snacks worth more than 20 yuan to "First of Beef Noodles" worth thousands of yuan per bowl, there are all kinds, and almost every store has a unique way of making them. If you eat beef noodles for three meals a day, it will be difficult to get a duplicate in half a month.
Taiwanese scholar and gourmet Jiao Tong said that beef noodle was originally "a historical accident that created a beautiful cultural landscape", but now it has become "Taipei's dietary nostalgia, calling collective memory and calling our emotions."
Walk into a Lanzhou Ramen , sit down, and order a bowl of beef ramen that costs more than a dozen yuan. A few minutes later, you flipped the noodles in the bowl and muttered in a low voice: "Where is the meat of ? "
Of course, you can't blame Lanzhou ramen. The slices of beef covered in a bowl are expensive, and a bowl of noodles costs more than ten yuan. What other bicycle do you want? Besides, the focus of Lanzhou beef noodles has always been noodles and soup base . If it weren't for the name, the few pieces of cold beef in would not appear on the screen.
, and in Taiwan, the situation is exactly the opposite. Take the braised beef noodles in Taiwan currently for example. The noodles may taste sloppy, but the mellow noodle soup cooked with beef bones and added with flavored sauces, and the beef tendon meat that has been processed through multiple processes such as boiling, oil stir-frying and stewing. almost makes you forget the ordinary noodles in the bowl.
If you want to select the best beef noodles in China, Taiwan beef noodles has the strength to fight.
Taiwan beef noodles.
First there are Taiwanese people who love beef noodles, then there are first-class beef noodles
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Let’s put it this way. Long before Taipei was covered by convenience stores, the beef noodle shops had already covered the entire Taipei. Walking on the streets of Taipei, you will be able to smell the smell of beef noodles within three to five steps.
These beef noodles range from street snacks worth more than 20 yuan to "First of Beef Noodles" that cost thousands of yuan per bowl. There are all kinds, and almost every store has a unique way of making them. If you eat beef noodles for three meals a day, it will be difficult to get a duplicate in half a month.
Taiwan’s most expensive beef noodles that have been reported by the media, costing RMB 2,000 per bowl. / Xinhuanet
Taiwanese who love beef noodles even invented the annual "International Beef Noodle Festival", and promotes the beef noodle business internationally.
At the first International Beef Noodle Festival held in 2005, the then mayor of Taipei City Ma Ying-jeou said that the annual beef noodle market in Taiwan is estimated to be about NT$4 billion, and holding such an event can bring NT$5 business opportunities to Taipei for over NT$100 million.
Even Taiwanese who have traveled across the ocean have not forgotten to bring beef noodles over and take the exam carefully. The California beef noodle king in the United States and Sun Ji beef noodle from Canada have the blood of Taiwanese beef noodles.
If instant noodles are included, Taiwanese beef noodles have actually become popular in China as early as the 1990s - Braised beef flavor instant noodles that emerged in 1992 were launched by Taiwanese companies. Everyone has also seen the achievements of this instant noodles. Not only has the manufacturer turned losses into profits, but even for a long period of time, has almost become synonymous with instant noodles in the hearts of mainlanders.
On the long train journey, mainlanders may have been exposed to this Taiwanese taste.
Where is the delicious Taiwanese beef noodles?
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For example, Shandong people brought the stewed beef noodle to Baodao. It is said that many chefs in large restaurants in Taiwan boasted that they had done things under the Shandong warlord Sun Chuanfang and learned the ability to stew beef.The main selling point of this stewed beef noodles in is meat. It is cut into yellow beef, hand-rolled noodles, and then poured on the soup after the noodles are removed from the pot.
The "Sichuan-flavored beef noodles" invented by Sichuan people is another flavor, the key lies in the bean paste. Taiwanese people add bean paste to braised soup base, which has become an indispensable ingredient in the soup. is then added to canned beef produced in the United States, which looks better and tastes good.
Taiwan’s military villages all over the world have placed many mainland immigrants, and many delicious food have been born.
, a Sichuan-style beef noodle, later gradually defeated the stewed beef noodle in Taiwan with its exquisite cooking and spicy taste in the world of street restaurants, and became the most mainstream beef noodle in Taiwan.
In the eyes of the first generation of mainland immigrants, there was no saying that beef noodles were invented at all. They were just finding the taste of their hometown. But the memory of my hometown is rooted in the distant treasure island and has long evolved into another taste.
Taiwanese food critic Lu Yaodong 's article "Another talk about beef noodles", records his experience of going to Sichuan to find Sichuan beef noodles but returning in vain: "(in Chengdu) went to find authentic Sichuan beef noodles. I walked through the streets and alleys for two hours and found nothing. Finally, I ate two plates of couple lung slices and a bowl of Zhong dumplings, and brought a pound of Pixian bean paste back."
According to his guess, the way to eat red soup beef in Sichuan snacks may be the source of Taiwan Sichuan beef noodles. Maybe in an inconspicuous corner of history, a Sichuanese who lived in Taiwan learned how to eat the noodles next door and added the noodles to the beef red soup, and the Taiwanese beef noodles were born.
The finishing touch of bean paste in Taiwan beef noodles is an authentic Sichuan flavor.
Native Taiwanese people rarely eat beef because cattle were an important production tool in the past and they did not eat noodles because Taiwan’s local rice is not their staple food. Due to historical coincidence, Taiwanese beef noodles emerged, with a "great" texture - this bowl of noodles has the flavors from all over the place and a history of China.
Attack on Beef Noodles
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Although the early Sichuan beef noodles solved the problem of soup base, the beef used at that time was usually scalpers and buffalo meat eliminated from farms in Taiwan. The meat is hard and the taste is the same, and the price is expensive. Beef noodle later became a commoner's diet, which is closely related to the result of the U.S.-Taiwan trade struggle in the 1970s.
In the 1970s, Taiwan mainly exported light industries. In order to balance the trade deficit, the United States required Taiwan to open up beef imports. Beef from Australia and New Zealand entered Taiwan with American beef. The price of beef in the market has dropped sharply, but the quality of beef has been improved.
As the economy began to take off, beef noodles also entered the homes of ordinary people in Taiwan.
After several studies by merchants, the treatment method of beef tendon meat is gradually fixed: first cut into appropriately sized pieces of meat, blanch it in boiling water, then add onion and ginger to the oil pan and stir-fry the aroma, stir-fry the gum part of the tendon meat first, and then add seasoning to remove the fishy smell and enhance the flavor. Then stew for two or three hours. This kind of beef tastes fragrant and soft but not rotten.
Taiwan beef noodles have also changed on the soup base. Sichuan-style bean paste and chili sauce are necessary, but later some traditional Taiwanese sausage sauce will be added to neutralize some of the spicy flavor. After discovering the Hong Kong-style tomato beef noodles, fresh tomatoes will be added to the soup base of the Taiwanese beef noodles, allowing its sweet and sour taste to dilute the saltiness of the beef soup.
A variety of options are becoming more and more abundant. Whether it is eating in high-end restaurants with air conditioning or eating in sweaty front stalls on the roadside sunscreen, the pleasure of Taiwanese people tasting beef noodles has increased.
At night, the beef noodle shops on the streets of Taipei were still on.
No wonder Taiwanese scholar Jiao Tong sighed that beef noodles were originally "a historical accident that created a beautiful cultural landscape", but now it has become "Taipei's dietary nostalgia, calling collective memories and calling our emotions."
Ma Ying-jeou recalled the scene of him eating beef noodles with his classmates in junior high school. The beef noodles sold to students were very rich and delicious, so made the students eat noodles like they were buried in a washbasin.
A classmate passed by and saw them. The next day at school, he asked, "What were you doing there yesterday? I thought you were washing your face! "
A fresh Taiwanese, when he picked up the beef noodles, also had a bit of heroic temperament.
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Author/Liu Qiang Typesetting/Su Wei
New Weekly—China's latest lifestyle weekly
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