A completely changed SIHH
The 28th SIHH Geneva International High Watch Salon will be held in Geneva, Switzerland from January 15 to January 19.
The scale of this exhibition has doubled to expand , and the number of exhibitors increased from 30 in the previous session to 35. Among them, there are 18 high-end watchmaking brands, with an Hermes added; 17 independent watchmaking brands, with a new addition to DeWitt, Armin Storm, Romain Gauthier and Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud added. Both sides occupy half of the territory.
Exhibitor Directory
Traditional SIHH big brands are still basically in old places, Cartier is still the largest. The latest big-name Hermes, which has been added, naturally gave a good location, right in the exhibition hall facing the entrance. Everyone is looking forward to the performance of this brand that just left Basel Exhibition
independent watchmaking area, you can see many familiar faces and brands, and some of them are very strange. The number of exhibitors also hit a record high, reaching 17
Judging from the preheated watches currently exposed by major brands, this year's SIHH is an exhibition that does whatever it wants . Obviously, with the recovery of the watch market, everyone has gained money and is very effective in releasing new works.
First of all,
Look at the Hermes
Hermes
exposed watch model : new Cape Cod,
new chronograph, new fashion matching watch
highlights: Dials with different materials and colors,
classic models added different models and straps
exquisite and fashionable life versatile watch
Cape Cod series has always been Hermes' classic series , born in 1991, and the design inspiration comes from Hermes' iconic design "anchor chain".
This year, this series has added a new style . The first one is a rhodium-plated dial, which looks smooth and mirror-like, and is coated with a layer of translucent paint on the surface. This watch comes in two models in size and is equipped with a single-lane or double-lane Milan strap.
The other two models launched at the same time are only large models, and are equipped with single-lane or double-lane cowhide straps in hemp gray or Malta blue. One is a black gold dial and the other is a blue paint dial. The "Anchor Chain" creativity is also applied to the dials of these two models. This detail once again reinforces the essence of the Cape Cod series, revealing itself in details and subtleties.
Hermes Arceau Chrono Titane Chrono Titane Chrono watch
Jewelry watch suitable for day wear
Hermes Nantucket Jete de Diamants
Piaget
Exposure watch: Altiplano Ultimate 910
Highlights: Ultra-thin
Ultra-thin has always been a main focus of professional watchmaking brands . In recent years, Piaget has had a fierce confrontation with Jaeger-LeCoultre and Bulgari around the ownership of the world's thinnest mechanical watches. We know that at the end of 2013, Piaget created the Altiplano 900P, which was only 3.65mm thick at the end of 2013. Although it was narrowly surpassed by the 3.6mm Jaeger-LeCoultre's ultra-thin master series hollow watch, its first method of combining the movement substrate and the watch bottom cover into one is still regarded as a meaningful innovation.
This year's SIHH, the Count will launch a heavyweight Altiplano Ultimate 910 ultra-thin automatic watch . Its thickness is only 4.3 mm, which beats the world's thinnest automatic watch record by Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 5.15 mm, refreshing 0.85 mm in one fell swoop. The reason why
has such an amazing breakthrough is that the Altiplano Ultimate 910 is equipped with a slim 22K gold ring rotor (with black PVD coating) on the basis of the Altiplano 900P manual watch. Although the overall number of parts increased from 145 to 248, most of them were flattened on the outer edge of the movement, which had little impact on the thickness. I believe the record this time is not so easy to break.
Australia Peterson
Exposed watch model : Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Replica,
Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, new millennium women's watch
Highlights : Women's watch, replica, complex functions, new version
Australia Peter has been focusing on the Royal Oak series in the past few years, but the rhythm this year is probably a bit unusual, and a number of works have been released before the exhibition opened. Among them, three millennium women's watches include bezel diamonds and "Polish" braided bracelets, and "frost gold" case with box tape. I wonder if it will make the millennium women's watches rejuvenate for the second time.
The other two works , the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph replica and the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, form a sharp contrast. The former is completely faithful to the first Royal Oak offshore type in 1993.
, and the latter has been directly upgraded from version 2.0 to version X, and the appearance is very difficult to describe. Apart from the octagonal borders and hexagonal screws, there are almost no traces of the original work. Royal Oak’s iconic “Petite Tapisserie” checked dial has also been completely removed, and the exposed movement structure completely subverts tradition.
I think when Audemars Piguet launched its first Royal Oak watch in 1972, it also encountered various sarcasm from industry insiders, but was slapped in the face by Audemars Piguet with its strength. So should we sprinkle flowers or salt for this indescribable work?
IWCh
Exposed watch model: tribute to Pallweber 150th anniversary special edition,
Portugal constant power tourbillon 150th anniversary special edition,
Portugal Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 150th anniversary special edition,
Da Vinci automatic 150th anniversary special edition, etc.
Highlights : New version, self-produced movement, complex functions, limited edition
This "Pallweber" looks very special because its appearance design and time display method are all derived from the famous Pallweber pocket watch in 1884. This is also the first time that Wanguo uses numbers to display hours and minutes in his watch, and it is also the most advanced time and minute jump operations, that is, the minute digital disc jumps every 60 seconds and the hour digital disc jumps every 60 minutes. Wanguo is applying for a patent for this device.
Portuguese constant power tourbillon has a patented constant force mechanism that can transmit power to the escape wheel completely evenly, causing the tourbillon to move every second. It is also supplemented by an accurate moon phase with an error of 577.5 years and a limited quantity of 15 pieces.
Portuguese Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar , combining the Portuguese Tourbillon and the Portuguese Perpetual Calendar into one. It is also the first time that the nation has combined these two complex functions together, with a limited number of 50 pieces.
The last Da Vinci automatic watch , although it seems ordinary, has extraordinary significance. On the one hand, its design inspiration was from the first Portuguese watch (Ref.IW325) in 1939, and through 12 layers of high-quality blue paint, it simulates the enamel disc effect of the Pallweber pocket watch.
On the other hand, it is the first watch to install the brand's own 82200 movement. This high-quality automatic movement was about to be released last year, but it was forcibly suppressed by the brand for a year and was launched on the 150th anniversary. It has a 60-hour power reserve that meets modern standards, and the usual Pellaton automatic winding system, but the pawls and cams are made of wear-resistant ceramic materials, the oscillator is hollowed out, and the movement's plating and polishing have also been qualitatively improved. Limited to 500 pieces.
Cartier
Exposed watch model :
Rotonde de Cartier mysterious double tourbillon empty watch,
Rotonde de Cartier mysterious day and night watch
Highlights : Complex functions, mysterious watch, hollow
Mysterious double tourbillon empty watch is a hollowed-out watch on the basis of the previous work. Although the internal structure of some movements is exposed, it is not used. You still cannot understand its operating principle, but it feels more fantastic.
Another mysterious day and night watch , which vaguely carries the traces of the previous day and night moon phase automatic watch, but it is a completely different work. Its dial is divided into two parts: upper and lower parts. The upper part uses a mysterious movement to drive the "sun" or "moon"-shaped hands to indicate the hours of day and night, and the lower part uses a blue steel hands to indicate the minutes, which does not interfere with each other.
This abstract work has a diameter of 40 mm, a movement diameter of 31.98 mm, and a thickness of only 4.7 mm. It is perfect and is very suitable for wearing. The domestic price (precious metal case) is about 400,000 yuan, and can be used as a replacement for Mysterious Hour watches.
Vacheron Constantin
exposed watch model : Full calendar platinum collection model,
horizontal and horizontal watch watch
highlights : self-produced movement, limited edition
Vacheron Constantin 2017 hot models , from the Copernicus astronomy trilogy to the art master City of Light, from the limited edition of the Great Wall of China, to the historical masterpiece series triple calendar 1942 watch released not long ago, achieving strategic synchronization between high-end and high-yield.
The full calendar platinum collection model exposed this time has many similarities with the historical masterpiece Triple Calendar 1942 watch in terms of functions. However, the historical masterpiece 1942 is a mass-produced model positioned in the mass market. The stainless steel model is only 146,000 yuan, setting the most expensive price of Geneva's imprint-grade complex watches - the cheapest, most cost-effective rather than the most expensive. The platinum collection series, which was launched in 2006, is the brand's top limited series . The full calendar platinum model is only sold in 100 pieces. The case and folding buckle are all made of platinum. The dial is sandblasted and the week and month windows adopt a unique pair of layouts. The "Pt950" mark is printed between the 4-point and 5-point scales. Even the strap is hand-sewn from 950 platinum wire to meet the tastes of high-end customers.
also has a time watch across the world. It is equipped with a 5110 DT self-produced movement, which belongs to the same sequence as the 5100 movement of the large three-pin automatic model. It has a power reserve of 60 hours. The decoration of the 22K gold rotor is exactly the same and has a Geneva mark.
RICHARD MILLE
exposed watch model : 07-01 Black ceramic diamond-set watch
highlights : Women's watch, new material
Women's watch is the most important trend and highlights in recent years. Usually, people will cover the women's watches after the opening of the exhibition before announcing it, but several companies have released it in advance, such as RICHARD MILLE.
Although women's watches have never been RICHARD MILLE's strengths, since 2014, RICHARD MILLE launched a gentle offensive and successively launched a number of women's watches that integrate innovative materials and personalized and beautiful appearance. The TPT black nanoceramic inlaid diamonds exposed this time can be described as a vivid interpretation of this style.
We know that diamonds are the most popular gem for women, and ceramics are one of the most popular and most excellent innovative materials at present, but watches with diamonds on ceramics are rare. The main problem is that the hardness of the ceramics is too high, making it difficult to make an inlay structure. The new RICHARD MILLE model 07-01 is used to fix the diamond by opening grooves on the TPT black nanoceramics and using a special CNC machine tool to create red gold or platinum claws to fix the diamond. The overall structure and appearance are not only exquisite, but also quite intoxicating.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Exposed watch model : Reverso Tribute Duoface,
Geophysic Real Second Special Edition
Highlights : Jump Second , limited edition, online sales
Jia-LeCoultre released two appetizers on the eve of the watch exhibition, a super large size Reverso Tribute Duoface, 49.4 mm long, which is difficult for Chinese people to control.
Another Geophysic Real-Second Special Edition uses a stainless steel case, a blue dial with a classic central crosshair, which looks very ecstatic. The central crosshair is particularly suitable as a supplement to a simple functional watch, so that the disc does not appear too empty. Jaeger-LeCoultre's previous Geophysic 1958 limited edition and the new Omega Iron Master Chronometer watch both use this decorative element.
In addition, the jump second function unexpectedly became popular in the past six months, Roger Dubby's Lamborghini limited edition, and Lange 's 1815 Walter Lange special edition are all the main jump second function, and Geophysic is undoubtedly the most affordable among them. Its configuration is not low, with a high-performance Gyrolab I-shaped balance wheel inside and a high-value 22K gold rotor outside. The movement is polished well.
The limited edition model of this store does not correspond to the physical store , but the online store on Jaeger-LeCoultre's official website. The limited edition of 100 pieces is priced at 10,400 Swiss francs, and it is sold out in seconds on Double 11.
montblanc
exposed watch model :
new star Nicholas Kys Chronograph,
celebrity automatic chronograph,
Time Walker Rally Chronograph,
Time Walker's self-made movement Chronograph
highlights: new version, self-produced movement,
Panda dial, limited edition
millionblanc exposed works, three very eye-catching . A brand new Nicholas Kess, with a design that returns to tradition. The dial is decorated with exquisite guilloches and a horizontal chronograph hand fixed at 6 o'clock, which is exactly the same as the ink-dripping chronograph device invented by French watchmaker Nicholas Kess in 1821.
The other two works are from Time Walker's sports series . Their most eye-catching features are the "Panda Dish" (a homemade movement chronograph) and the "Longitudinal Panda Dish" (a rally chronograph).
Episode 5 Since David Cerrato became the product director of Montblanc (he used to work in Panerai and Tudor, responsible for product design and marketing), Montblanc's works have added many popular design elements, and the same is true for these two "Panda Pans".
, especially limited edition 100 rally chronographs, is the creative drawn from the Minerva Rally Timer chronographs in the 1960s. Its titanium case, with a diameter of 50mm, has an integrated single-timing button in the crown, and is always in the direction of the "vertical panda disc", full of retro meaning. It is worn very casually, can be worn horizontally or vertically, and can be used as a pocket watch and countertop clock. The 38.4 mm diameter diameter of Minerva is equipped with a MB M16.29 manual single-button chronograph movement. The designer opened a barrel-shaped window on the back of the watch, revealing charming details such as V-shaped timing plywood and arrow-shaped levers.
Reposted from monochrome website
Athen
Exposed watch model :
Marine Tourbillon Blue Hokkien Enamel watch ,
Marine TorpilleurMilitary watch ,
Classico Manufacture Great Hokkien Enamel watch
Highlights : New series, enamel plate,
self-produced movement, limited edition
Athens exposed works , one is a high-quality and beautiful product.
Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu Enamel Table , steel shell diameter 43 mm. Based on last year's white feu enamel model, the dial was fired with guillochron (Flinque) feu enamel, a 60-hour automatic tourbillon movement, and also has 100 meters of waterproofing. The current price of Swiss franc is only 28,000 yuan, which is the easiest to use in Swiss tourbillon watch.
Marine Torpilleur's military table name is derived from the French destroyer . Speaking of which, there are many brands that have made "Dafei", but only Panerai has succeeded in the Navy's military watch. Athens released the new 42mm Marine Torpilleur Observatory watch in the middle of this year. The market response was good, so he struck while the iron was hot and launched a 44mm version of the pure military watch style, with only the most basic three-needle indicator.
Its matte case and retro-style dial are the most eye-catching military watch that watch tours have seen in recent years. It is equipped with a high-quality UN-118 automatic movement (silicon escapement hairspring, 60-hour power), and the bottom cover is engraved with the pattern of the Torpilleur destroyer, and the price of 7,900 Swiss francs is also very restrained. However, the black and white dials are limited to 300, so friends who can't buy them have to wait for another year or two.
lassico Manufacture is the main Japanese version of in Athens, equipped with a high-quality UN-320 automatic movement. This time, a popular version (non-limited) stainless steel large feu enamel model was launched, and the price of 8,800 Swiss francs is very exciting.
Grassia PEARL
Exposed watch model : Laureato Flying Tourbillon Watch
Highlights : Complex functions, hollow
Grassia PEARL has only exposed two Laureato series of flying tourbillon watches , 42 mm diameter, respectively, using platinum and pink gold case, assembled with the brand new GP09520-001 hollow automatic movement. The movement plywood is high-end and exquisite, and it is symmetrical at around 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock. The super large-sized flying tourbillon has extremely spectacular visual effects.
MB & F
Exposed watch model : Kelys and Chirp "mechanical walking turtle with singing bird
(mechanical crawling turtle with singing bird)"
Highlights : Complex functions, mechanical dolls
MB&F In the advanced watchmaking world, it has become synonymous with brains and surprises . This mechanical crawling turtle with singing birds was created in collaboration with music box manufacturer Reuge and mechanical expert Nicolas Court, and its name alone is already a surprise.
It operates more than the image: a 24 cm long and 1.4 kg turtle, after being wound through the disc on the abdomen, can crawl forward through the gears and cams hidden under the body, and the turtle speed is 0.03 mph. If you place the turtle on the table, you don’t need to worry about it falling from a height. Because there is a friction clutch safety system installed under your neck, that is, when the turtle cannot feel the friction on the ground in front of the body (meaning that there is no way to go), it will automatically stop, which seems to be smarter than my sweeping robot.
There is also a singing bird hidden in the turtle's back shell. Its bellows pneumatic sound device is exactly the same as Jacques Dro's "charming bird of time". The bird is controlled by the turtle's tail. When it presses, the bird will pop out and sing with its wings while flapping its neck. Press the turtle's tail or accidentally touch the bird, it will be frightened and retracted into the turtle shell.
This mechanical crawling turtle with singing bird is divided into four colors and is priced at 49,000 Swiss francs. The rich can buy one and go home to release their nature.
There are several brands that launch watches with unique colors and extraordinary creativity.
Haulence
HautlenceOrange Vortex Gamma Magma mushroom Black Background Watch
Christophe Claret
ChristopheClaret's Maestro Mamba watch, bright orange red, and the gorgeous python crawling on mechanical watches....
Green Edition ChristopheClaret's Maestro Mamba watch. Green is actually the most popular now...
However, the most popular "hot product" that was released in advance in 2018 this year is undoubtedly Henry Mushi's HMC watch that combines the iconic elements of thousands of big brands!
It is so popular that it has been under the pressure of major brands that it was forcibly removed from the shelves before it even started...
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