Tang Dynasty Fish food illustration, what spark will be generated when ingredients collide with traditional culture?
Fish, as an ordinary ingredient, supports half of the sky for classic dishes in the eight major cuisines, such as sweet and sour carp in Shandong cuisine, spicy and fragrant boiled fish in Sichuan cuisine, steamed sea bass in Cantonese cuisine, squirrel mandarin fish in Suzhou cuisine... Fish is the lowest form of vertebrates and has a very long history. Traces of fish can be found almost every stage of human evolutionary history. Since humans learned to hunt, fish has become an indispensable part of human life. The Tang Dynasty had vast territory, crisscrossing waterways, and lakes scattered. The coastline was basically consistent with modern China, with rich aquatic resources and inexhaustible seafood resources. Today, the editor will take you to learn about the ingredient fish that often appear among food cases and become the rich dishes in the Tang Dynasty’s diet~
boiled fish
What is the happiest fish in the rivers and lakes of the Tang Dynasty? That must be - carp . Next, the first contestant "carp" will be invited to appear. The Tang Dynasty was the golden period when carp reproduction and thriving, swimming freely among rivers and lakes. Duan Chengshi of the Tang Dynasty wrote this passage in his collection of notes and novels "Youyang Zazu", "The carp has a scale in the spine, and each scale has black spots, and is of thirty-six scales in size. The rule of the country, it is suitable to release the carp when it is obtained, but it is still not allowed to eat it. The name is Chi Bao Gong, and the seller has sixty sticks, which means that carp is Li." According to Duan Chengshi, the reason why the rulers of the Tang Dynasty prohibited catching and eating carp was that "carp" was homophoned with the emperor's surname "Li". Not only could they not be eaten, but they could not be sold. People who violated the laws and regulations would be beaten sixty-two sticks. Furthermore, "Old Book of Tang: Xuanzong Jishang" records that in the third year of Kaiyuan, "the world was forbidden to catch carp" and in the 19th year of Kaiyuan, it was also "forbidden to catch carp". It can be seen that carp was deified by the rulers and protected by law, becoming a key protected animal in that period.
Carp
Carp contestants also often make guest appearances in Tang poetry. Dai Shulun's "Sentences" "Plant mountain fruits on the fence, and raise brocade scales on the pond." It can be seen that carp is deeply loved by literati of the Tang Dynasty as an important fish for people to watch. At the same time, carp is also regarded as an important gift to relatives and friends. Du Fu's "Send to Cen Jiazhou" wrote, "What are you sending in front of me? Giving Zi Yun'an Double Carp." In addition, carp also became an envoy for ancient people to convey letters in Tang poetry, such as "The Songyun and Qin trees left for a long time, and the two carp were far away from each other" in "Handling Linghu".
Koi
In Tang poetry, carp is called "pointed fish". The allusion comes from the "Shui Jing" recorded in "Taiping Yulan·Linjiebu·Volume8": "The tuna is a carp, and comes out of the Gong hole. In March, you will cross Longmen and you will be able to cross it as a dragon, otherwise you will return." Legend has it that there is a cave in the belly of the cliff in the northeast of Gong County, Henan Province, which is connected to the river and lake. The tuna and tuna swim from the south water and enter the northern water, and turn into the dragon. Before the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the fish that jumped into the Dragon Gate was not carp, but refers to the two types of fish, namely the sturgeon , which is the current sturgeon . It is probably because the sturgeon is more like a dragon, and the sturgeon has the habit of swimming and laying eggs in spring (the second day of February). When swimming up, you have to pass through the throat of the Yellow River - Longmen, a section of the river famous for its turbulence, so there is a legend that it turns into a fish and becomes a dragon. The saying of carp jumping over the dragon gate is the result of people mixing fish and carp in the past. In the Book of Songs, Erya, there is "fish, tuna", and in the Book of Songs, there is also the saying "fish, tuna", so when it comes to the "Shui Jing", it becomes "fish, tuna, tuna".
"Carp jumps over the dragon gate"
The legend of carp jumping over the dragon gate also appears in Li Bai's 's poem. In "Give to Shilang Cui", "The three-foot carp in the Yellow River was originally in Mengjin, and the dots do not make a dragon, and when you return, you will accompany the ordinary fish." The Yellow River carp that successfully leaps through the Dragon Gate will turn into a dragon, and the Yellow River carp that has not jumped through the Dragon Gate will fall from the air and leave a black scar on its forehead.In Tang poetry, "carp jumps over the dragon gate" is often used to describe things like getting a successful career or getting promoted, while "pointing the fish" is used to imply your failure in the imperial examination or your career and your life's frustration. The poems in the previous text of Li Bai are the latter, implying that you are disappointed in your career. Bai Juyi’s poem “Doing the Fish” by also uses this slogan. His poem says: "What does the meaning of the dragon gate dot mean? The red tail and green fins return to the beginning. I see that it is said that the rain is bitter in the sky, and it is not necessarily better to be a fish." The legend of fish leaping on the dragon gate was used in the opposite sense, expressing that although he successfully entered the imperial examination, he felt the helplessness of the hardships in the officialdom.
"Douwei Fish"
But how can a rule stop foodies? Carp is still a food ingredient after all. In the "Medicine Herbal Medicine" written by Meng Shi in the early 8th century AD, carp is separated by gallbladder, meat, thorns, scales and other parts, and describes the dietary therapy value of each part of carp. This book is not regarded as a forbidden book. Volume 3 of "Youyang Zazu" also records: " Suzhou In Zhenyuan, there was a teacher who liked to burn carp alive and did not wait for it to be cooked." Let's take a look at "Complete Tang Poems", there are many poems about carp in it. Bai Juyi's "Boat Travel" includes, "There is a stove on the bow of the boat, and cooking rice cooks red carp", and Du Fu's "Ode to the Kui Mansion in Autumn", "Carved insects are remembered, and cooking carp is asked to sink and sink." There is also Wang Wei in "The Daughter's Journey" and wrote, "The good man, jade le, rides a horse and maid, sauts a carp with a golden plate."... These cultural people have written about cooking and eating carp, let alone the folk? It can be seen that the law prohibiting carp fishing has not been finalized.
carp fish sashimi
"New Book of Tang · Biography of Meng Haoran" records that he "suffered from the end of Kaiyuan." Meng Haoran, the first person in the Pastoral Poetry School of the Prosperous Tang Dynasty, was also a famous willful glutton. In the 28th year of Kaiyuan, Wang Changling was exiled to Lingnan, passed by Xiangyang , and visited Meng Haoran. Unfortunately, Meng Haoran had a sore and a carbuncle on his back before this. This was a relatively difficult disease in the Tang Dynasty, where medical treatment was underdeveloped. After treatment, he still had to avoid food, especially fish, shrimp and so on. However, friends are not seen all year round, and there will be gatherings when meeting each other, and there are even more big fish and meat during the meal. Xiangyang is also located in the middle of Hanshui . There is a famous river fresh in the Hanshui River - bream . Will there be less dishes made with Hanshui specialty bream? Of course not. Will Meng Laotao give up on delicious food because of his illness? Of course, it won’t be, which is also why he is willful.
Meng Haoran and Wang Changling
Wang Shiyuan of the Tang Dynasty, as Meng Haoran's number one fan, compiled his poems into a collection in the fifth year after Meng Haoran's death, called "Meng Haoran's Collection". In the preface, he wrote, "In the 28th year of Kaiyuan, Wang Changling traveled to Xiangyang. At that time, Haoran's rashes broke out on the back and he was cured. They were very happy, and they were joking with each other, and they were joking with each other, and finally got angry at the south garden of the city." It can be learned that Meng Haoran died of old, weak and drinking and joking, and did not listen to the doctor's instructions to eat fish, causing the sores and carbuncles to worsen behind him.
Steamed Wuchang Fish
Indirectly killing the fierce fish is the second contestant today - the bream fish. Bream is also known as Bream . During the Tang Dynasty, people regarded it as an economic fish, and many people ate it. There are many poems about breams in "Complete Tang Poems". For example, Zhang Ji's "The Legend of the Condor Heroes" writes that using nets to catch carp and bream, "returning to the bottom of the pond, intercepting carp and bream in the net." Bai Juyi wrote a poem "Occasional Fishing on the Wei River" while fishing in the Wei River, "The Wei River is like a mirror, with carp and breeze in it." Both poems describe that carp and breeze were the main species of fish that were preyed at that time. The production areas of bream are very wide. Except for the northwest of arid and few rivers, as well as plateau areas, all major rivers and lakes in my country are distributed.
bream
The ancients believed that bream produced along the Han River had the best quality. For example, the bream produced in the Han River at the foot of Xian Mountain has fat and delicious meat. When fishermen fish it, they use rafts (rafts) to cut off the water flow, so it is commonly known as "chatou bream". Meng Haoran said in "Xiantan": "Try hanging bamboo poles to fish, and the fruit is the rafted head breeze." From the word "fruit", we can see that Meng Lao Tao specializes in fishing for rafted head breeze. Du Fu's "Twenty Poems to Relieve Boredom" "Remembering Meng Haoran in Xiangyang, all the poems in Qing Dynasty can be passed down. Now, the old people have no new words, and they are fishing all over the raft and the neck is shrinking."There is a kind of fishing bream by the river. The Lao Du that remembers this scene is the feeling of watching Lao Meng in the poem. The collision of ingredients and culture is vividly reflected here. For example, the gang head bream produced in the river section of Wuchang flowing through the Han River, also known as Wuchang fish , has the shadow of Wuchang fish among the top ten famous dishes in China. Cen Shen 's "Send Fee to Wuchang" says: "In autumn, I remember Wuchang fish twice, and I dream only on Baling Road. "Dugu He's "A letter from the boat in Yiyang River to Pei Shiyu" says: "I got to eat fish in Wuchang, regardless of Xunyang fields." "The description of "remembering" and "ignoring", it can be seen how delicious this fish is.
Dry-fried Wuchang Fish
Not only that, other waters also produce high-quality breams, such as the Qinhuai Waters, seen in "Three Sentences for Friends" by Tang Yanqian , "New wine Qinhuai Shrinks the neck of breams, lingering under the ox twitch flowers"; there are also breams in the Mianzhou River, Du Fu wrote in "Watching Fishing Song", "The East Tianjin of Mianzhou River... The breams are fat and beautiful. "In "Walking in Fangkou Liuxi with Wang Twenty-one" written by Meng Jiao, "I recommend the whisper petals and golden flowers and orange ginger." "Bai Letian wrote "I wish to give it to my wife, Hongnong Junjun, after the vegetarian food after the vegetarian food", "The scales of the vegetarian are as white as snow, steamed and roasted with cinnamon and ginger. "It can be seen that the breeze is remembered by diners because of its deliciousness. It turned into a good dish between the knife, chopper, stove and cauldron at that time.
"Chang'an Late Autumn"
Hometown bass is a time of fertility, but I didn't go back to enjoy it. Why is it hard to stay in the capital like a prisoner? Zhao Yu The last couplet in "Chang'an Late Autumn" borrows the allusion of "Water and Perch Thoughts". Western Jin Zhang Han This person is a boring person. He went to Luoyang without telling his family whereabouts and was summoned by the King of Qi as the Grand Sima Dongcao. When he felt the autumn wind blowing, he remembered the vegetable soup and perch in his hometown of Wu. Fish sashimi, I feel that life is to live happily as my wishes. In order to obtain an official position and come to Luoyang thousands of miles away from my hometown, it is really not worth it. I drove home the next day. However, Zhao Yu's poem does not have such freedom and freedom, but uses it to express his longing for his hometown and his negative feelings of avoiding the world.
bass sashimi
bass sashimi
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Ordinary perch
Songjiang perch, also known as the four-gill perch, originated from a myth about one of the Eight Immortals Lu Dongbin . According to legend, Lu Dongbin came to the tavern next to Xiuye Bridge in Songjiang to eat and drink, and felt that the fish smell was very fishy and the meat was also very thick. So the owner asked the shop owner to come over some live fish, and he thought the fish looked ugly, so he used a brush to dip the cinnabar and drew two red gills on each fish's gills. After buying these fish from the shop, he released them under the Xiuye Bridge. It was called the ancestor of the four-gill perch. The meat was white, tender and delicious, and there was no fishy smell. It is a precious and rare food. In the poem "The Book of Autumn Night", Liu Jian, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, mentioned that "a chopstick of perch is ten thousand gold".
Songjiang perch
0 Season as a delicious ingredient is also often guest-played in Tang poetry. The poet Lu Guimeng wrote in "Sending People to Changzhou to Runzhou", "How many days have you lived in Songjiang to taste stew and water chestnut soup", which refers to Songjiang perch. For example, the "Jiangnan Nong" written by the poet Li He said that "a thousand heads of perch heads and a hundred hu of wine" in the local area, and the poet Li Qi talked about diet in "Sending Shanyin Yao Cheng" and praised the deliciousness of sea fish, which is reflected in the poem "Add to Love the fatty perch of a sea fish". Bai Juyi said in "Occasional Song": "There are still sea fish fish shields that are prosperous, and they may be planning to go to Jiangdong in the spring. "The place where the perch mentioned in the poem refers to people who want to appreciate the charm of Songjiang perch in person, it is best to be immersive in order to find a fish.
Water shield sea bass
Not only that, sea bass, as a symbol of Wu land, has also become a symbol of the Tang Dynasty literati and doctors expressing their homesickness, which has given sea bass more humanistic colors. In his poem "Returning to the South", Gu Kuang wrote, "The perch has eliminated the official situation, and the gulls and birds know their return home. ... The hometown is very popular, and gradually enters the Wuyin." He used perch to describe his hometown and expressed his homesickness. Liu Changqing wrote in "Sending Xu Shiyi to Beijing" "For the time being, who would love the perch?", which records the helplessness of a court edict that forced Xu Shiyi to have no time to miss his hometown and rushed to Kyoto. The poet Li Ying also wrote this poem in "Jiangting Evening Looking" "I heard that the rice in my hometown is ripe, and I will go back to the sea bass." This is the time when the rice in my hometown is ripe and the perch is fat, and the poet wishes to take a boat to enjoy the deliciousness of the sea bass in my hometown. There is also a poem about perch in Xu Xuan 's "Sending the Ministry of Gifts Pan Shangshu Resigns and Returns to Jian'an", "The reputation is successful and the result is lighter, and perch is caused by the old homesickness." Although the poet succeeds and is in a high position, he still cannot withstand the homesickness. Xu Hun "Give to the ancestors of Xiao Bingcao" says: "There are perchs where you return to Yue Township," using perch to express your strong homesickness. It can be seen that there are a lot of records in Tang Dynasty poetry that expresses homesickness with perch. Sea bass: "I feel that my identity of the ingredients has become more prominent because of these humanistic colors!"
Spicy steamed sea bass
The Tang Dynasty fish food illustration contains some common fish on the Tang people's food case. There are only three kinds of fish here. The editor has more content to share with readers.
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