丨Don’t understand the "delicious" of the night during the day丨
- Fengwu Junyu -
At this time, are you eating midnight snack
or on the way to having midnight snack?
Summer day is long and the night is short and
It really makes people cherish the night -
Oh no, the time of midnight snack
Barbecue beer crayfish
Seafood fried chicken Teppanyaki
Duck neck hot pot Malatang
...
Tonight, does anyone want to have midnight snack with Fengwujun?
▼
During the day, the sun shines too much. In broad daylight, people are dealing with secular life and work in layers of disguises. In the evening, night falls, and the night becomes the best protection color for people. People took off their old-fashioned and serious coats and relaxed their nervous nerves for the whole day. Under the cover of the night, showed their most direct desire for food.
The true soul of a city is all at night. The deeper the night , the more it can show its "real color". The popularity of the night snack also reflects the popularity and vitality of the city from the side.
baked gluten, grilled cold noodles, stinky tofu , crayfish, teppanyaki, various skewers... The food stalls and barbecue trucks hidden in the daytime were all set up, emitting a burst of dangerous and deadly atmosphere. The once proud soul under the sunlight has no self-control under such temptation. just wants to expose its nature and eat it openly for a while. is enjoying it.
Why do you to suck the night ? Only the night snack
spend the long night with delicious food, which is never exclusive to modern people.
In the Tang Dynasty, the poet Fanggan used in the poem "Winter Night Mooring Monk's House" "No wine can get rid of the night, follow the monks to close the door in the morning" , expressing his daily life of drinking and spending time with a soft drink; in the Song Dynasty "Dream Lianglu·Volume 6·New Year's Eve", there is "On that day, the inner command is in charge of the meaning of the ingenious night fruits combined with , combining various fine fruits, time pieces, honey fried, sugar fried and market food", showing the richness of the snacks on the palace celebrating New Year's Eve; in the Qing Dynasty, in "Dream of Red Mansions", the old lady of said: "The night is long, I am a little hungry", and Sister Feng replied that "duck meat porridge" .
…
▲ Zhang Zeduan "Along the River During the Qingming Festival", Northern Song Dynasty
To say that the most "night culture" in ancient times was probably the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the integration of market and houses was implemented, the curfew system was abolished, and the formation of night market began. There are a wide variety of grocery stores and snack shops, which are very lively. "Tokyo Dreams Record" records the grand scene at that time: "Golden green is dazzling, and silk is fragrant. The new voice is smiling on the willow roads and flowers, and the strings are adjusted in the tea shops and wine shops."
As for the delicacies that could be tasted at the night market at that time, there were countless delicacies, and it seems that it can make people saliva. In summer, there are various sweet soups such as ice and snow cold prickly, raw pickled papaya, perilla paste, lychee paste, and to relieve heat and relieve hunger in winter.
"Escape the Night" is an art of eliminating the Night. The ancients used "Xiaoye" to show the rich food culture at night. Over time, "Xiaoye" gradually changed from a verb to a noun, referring to food, and even evolved into the word "night snack", becoming a proper noun for snacks eaten at night.
The two meanings contained in the words "xiao" and "xiao" - "small" and "enjoy", are the spirit of "xiao" or "eating".
——Yang Kui "It's Already"
How can I get away with the night? Only midnight snacks.
A delicacy that suits your heart can make you happy all night. The so-called midnight snack is never a continuation of dinner. is a unique group and is independent of three meals. The three meals during the day are for survival, but the night snacks often reach the depths of the soul.
Just like Akira Kurosawa said: "Eating during the day to nourish the body, and eating at night to nourish the soul."
Southern tip of China, "free and degenerate"
The evening of the southern town is easy to spend.Perhaps because of the climate, I was still wandering outside late at night. In Fuzhou, I drink at a street hot pot restaurant, and it’s late at night.
——Wang Kai's "Long Journey to the Night"
▲ Photo/Visual China
If Japan's "late night canteen" is a Shaobi House and an izakaya, then China's "late night canteen" is undoubtedly a night market food stall, full of fireworks on earth .
Unlike restaurants that are reserved and arrogant, who often have hidden regulations on "unfitting clothes are not allowed to enter", the night market is the most popular place for beach pants and flip-flops .
Night Market is often a street next to the local city center, gathering the most prestigious snacks in the local area. Neon lights flashed, hawking and bargaining sounds came one after another, and a breath of freedom and depravity filled the air, making people unable to help but walk into it.
For Chinese people, the choice of midnight snacks is also interesting. Even if it is not necessarily the ultimate greasy and spicy, it is very heavy. In short, it is not as light as it comes during the day. late night is like a catalyst, and the guilt of being captured by food will be thrown out of the sky at this time. What else do you care about weight and health? Let go and eat!
Night markets all over the country are liberating their "foodie hearts" from seriousness and depression with their extraordinary charm.
Night markets in various places have their own characteristics and characteristics. In the southernmost part of , Taiwan , Hainan and Guangdong , the three places in the southernmost part of China, relying on the natural advantages of latitude and temperature, the night market that is on duty throughout the year in 365 days has become an inseparable part of the local urban culture.
[Taiwan丨Saltized Fujian tradition and nostalgia for other provinces]
Taiwan is a treasure island, and it is also "spend island" . Having never visited the night market in Taiwan is like a waste of time.
In Taiwan, no matter the size of the city or the economy is not good, there are night markets. night market culture is an important part of understanding Taiwanese culture. If you want to start your Taiwan food journey, you will definitely not be able to avoid Taipei. The most famous ones here are Shilin Night Market , the favorite Ningxia Night Market , the movie "Spring Light" Liaoning Street Night Market , the favorite Teacher Night Market , the favored by students ...
Among them, Shilin Night Market is the earliest night market in Taiwan , with a history of hundreds of years. Taiwan’s night markets have emerged from street food stalls. In the 1960s and 1970s, when Taiwan's processing industry was at its peak, the night market gradually grew stronger. In addition to food and snacks, Taiwan’s night markets also include department stores, video games, massages... everything you can’t imagine.
film and television dramas have made oyster omelette and fried chicken chop become representatives of Taiwan’s night markets. However, the so-called “oyster omelette” is just another name for “oyster baking” in Taiwan. Speaking of , the most local night market snack in Taiwan is Taiwan's Danzai Noodle .
Tainan’s Danzai noodles are a delicious dish that even the “gourmet” Liang Wendao praised. The delicious and sweet shrimp soup, the mellow and dry meat, the smooth and fragrant noodles, accompanied by the supplementary flavor of coriander, bean sprouts and garlic paste, the salty and fresh taste hides the ingenuity of the stall owner.
In the meat drying of every bowl of danzai noodles, there are unique secrets from the stall owner. Therefore, the taste of each store is salty and fresh, but there is a slight difference.
▲Photo/Visual China
Another Taiwan night market "little bully" is stinky tofu. The odor you can smell a few meters away from makes people feel salivated.
The stall owner took out a few pieces of fermented stinky tofu from his bucket or basin and put it directly into a hot oil pan. In an instant, the skin of the stinky tofu became golden and crispy. It is very similar to Shaoxing stinky tofu. They both have a crispy skin on the outside and a tender on the inside. However, Taiwan’s stinky tofu is eaten with with sweet and sour kimchi after being served, but it is another interpretation.
diet is a memory and is evidence of history.The night market in Taiwan is precipitated with the local dietary traditions of southern Fujian and the nostalgia of people from other provinces. They do not interfere with each other, but they adapt to each other. With the processing of time, they eventually become a business card of Taiwan.
[Hainan丨Simple and low-key, the taste buds of late-night snacks are restless]
▲ Hainan University Nanmen Snack Street, let you eat from the stall on this end to the other end.
night snack, called "night meal" in Hainan dialect. In Hainan, "Dad Tea, Lottery, and Midnight Snack" is nicknamed Hainan's three pillar industries by the people. Of course, this is not measured by GDP, but is summarized from Hainan's real life.
The temperature in Hainan is very high during the day, and after the sunset, the air is comfortable with the sea breeze. Such an island living environment has also made the locals develop the habit of "squatting in the house during the day and walking around the street at night" . Under the night, tropical styles and rich snacks collide together to form a unique late-night snack culture.
▲Photo/Visual China
Summer is the most lively time of Hainan Night Market. The sun during the day burns, making people listless, and they become active as soon as they get late. Hawkers line up one after another, including groceries, clothing, games, local specialties, electrical appliances, accessories... gadgets that you can't buy in department stores can definitely be found here. The most attractive ones are still those late-night snack stalls that fit the late night atmosphere.
Hainanese people tend to be light, and so does midnight snacks. Light and refreshing snacks and authentic seafood barbecue will not add too much burden to the stomach and intestines of Hainan people.
Qingfuliang , a special cool dessert that is popular throughout Hainan, Hainan's summer standard ! As long as there is a place for midnight snacks, there is a place for cooling.
Clean and replenish the ingredients are rich and attractive, with at least a dozen types, and at most twenty types! Common ones include peanuts, red beans, mung beans, kidney beans, barley seed, jelly, macaroni, sago, fresh coconut meat, red dates, longan meat, watermelon grains, diced pineapple, quail eggs, coconut milk, raisins, taro, etc. Most of them are made of local materials, ensuring absolute freshness. Take a bite of sweet and cool, and quickly cool down. With it, , you will no longer be afraid of the heat coming!
When it comes to what to eat for lunch in Hainan, the first thing that comes to mind in many local people is definitely - fans!
There are too many types of rice noodles in Hainan. In the national rice noodles, it can be regarded as a dark horse that everyone ignores. and among them, there must be a place for Hainan fried noodles . Hainanese people like to call fried noodles "fried bazills" . This traditional Hainan snack formed in the Ming Dynasty has always been passed down from classic taste.
fry with garlic, stir-fry with pork slices and shredded squid, add Hainan handmade rice noodles, and stir-fry quickly with salt, light soy sauce, pepper and other seasonings. Of course, the ingredients that can be paired with fried noodles are richer. As long as you can stir-fry, put them in: pork liver, chicken miscellaneous, meatballs, shrimp, chicken miscellaneous, bean sprouts, vegetables... rice noodles are tough and chewy, smooth but not greasy, and the side dishes are rich and rich and rich. I ate a plate late at night, so beautiful that I couldn't sleep.
There is also the Hainan night snack king that I have to mention: chicken shit vine bazai . The name is not elegant enough, but it cannot stop the beauty of others' taste.
People who have never eaten it may be discouraged by just listening to the name. Friend, please don’t have any misunderstandings about Chicken Shit Vine. It is a vine-like plant. After the leaves are kneaded, they will emit a chicken feces smell, hence the name. But if you hear it for a long time, you will feel a refreshing fragrance.
Chicken Shit Teng Bazai can be said to be the most local snack in Hainan, , which clears heat and detoxifies, removes dampness and replenishes blood. is super suitable for summer . Mash or grind the picked fresh chicken shit vine leaves and soaked rice into powder, then mix them with water and pinch them into small round cakes, and steam them and eat them.On summer nights, I will have a bowl of iced coconut milk chicken shit vine cake seed . is refreshing, sweet, soft and delicious . Mom will no longer have to worry about me getting heatstroke!
[Guangdong丨Faced with food, day and night]
▲ In 2017, among the top ten cities that love to order late-night snacks, Guangdong Province won 6 seats, worthy of its title of "Sales of Food".
first look at the data. In early 2018, Ele.me officially released "2017 China Internet Local Life Service Blue Book" , using big data to restore the "eating appearance" of Chinese sentient beings in 2017. Among them, Guangdong was elected as the province of "the favorite ordering late-night snack takeaway in the country". , Jieyang, Guangdong, , is also on the list, and is rated as , "the most popular city in the country to order late-night snacks and takeout".
Although it is takeaway, it is not difficult to get a glimpse of how deep the people’s love for midnight snacks is.
Guangdong's late-night snack culture has been formed as early as ancient times. After all, they have liked to eat day and night since ancient times.
Lingnan is located in the subtropical zone, with long days and short nights, and the weather is even hot and stuffy. Morning and night, both lukewarm and hot, is most suitable for travel. As a result, the locals gradually developed two major hobbies - morning tea and late-night snack .
The second year of Daoguang in the late Qing Dynasty recorded the statement of "Guangzhou Xiguan meat forest and wine sea, no cold and heat, no day and night" . During the Republic of China period, many "night food street" gradually formed in Guangzhou, forming a unique Cantonese late-night snack culture. In the 1990s and 1920s, Guangdong people went to Shanghai to open Cantonese restaurants, and brought the midnight snack here. "Hujiang Commercial City Scenic Ci·Late Night Skirt Restaurant" describes this: "The museum is named "The Guangdong people have a late night snack, and the decoration is brilliantly attracted customers." shows how popular the Cantonese midnight snacks were at that time.
Guangdong people usually call it "late skimp" , which is more colloquial, but there are different names in different places.
Chaoshan people call it "Ye Mi" , which means that no matter how amazing the food you eat at night, you should finish it with a bowl of plain white crumbs, and be innocent and return to nature. In Guangzhou, it is called "Pu Tianguang" , which means playing all night until dawn. There is even a store called "Pu Tianguang", which is the first food stall in Guangzhou that opens all night.
Guangdong people pay attention to health preservation, and midnight snacks are no exception.
In the local food stall at night, you can still see a master cooking porridge in front of the pot at two or three in the morning. Egg lean meat porridge, fish fillet porridge, pork liver porridge, boat porridge, snail meat porridge, top porridge, water snake porridge, casserole porridge, Yaozhu porridge... One bowl of it is refreshing and nourishing, doesn't seem to care so much about fat at this time.
At the same time, it is called the other two "Three Treasures of Guangdong Night Snack" - powder and noodles , naturally, it cannot be missed. The wonton noodles, bamboo noodles, beef brisket noodles, Hakka marinated noodles, fish egg noodles, rice noodles, beef pho noodles, sage noodles... no matter which pick, it is a wonderful taste in the middle of the night.
When I was in Guangzhou, my friend took me to a barbecue restaurant with open on the rooftop of a residential building .
On a humid and stuffy early summer night, the clothes stick to our bodies with dense sweat beads. This discomfort has no effect on our excitement of foraging in late night. I walked along the streets and alleys, and climbed up to the roof of the stairs in the dark, and the heat of barbecue and the noise of diners came to me.
That night, we were scrambling skewers and beer in one hand under the shaking lights. The content of the chat is now blurry, I only remember the aroma of food, and at some point, I had a feeling of being connected to this city .
The late-night snack in Guangzhou is really magical.
Leave a message to tell Fengwujun
The summer night is ready to move
Where do you like to eat midnight snacks the most? What to eat?
Text丨Xizhou
Edit丨Jianzi
Picture editing丨Yuan Qianxi
Reference materials丨Fang Gan "Winter Night Mourning Monk's House", Meng Yuanlao "Tokyo Dream Hualu", Wu Zimu "Dream Lianglu", Cao Xueqin "Dream of Red Mansions", Wen Xun "Cloud Manuscripts on Cloud Mountain Room", Yang Kui "Passing", Feng Qiao "Sleepless Cafe All Night", Wang Kai "Long Journey into the Night", "Today Hainan" No. 3, 2016, Zhou Songfang "Taste of the Republic of China", Zhang Jiawei "Winter Night, Late Snack Is the Only Justice", Chen Xiaoxing "Looking at Taiwan Night Market Culture: Life is also Economy", Yao Jianli, Chen Qinghan "The More Hot the Night Snack, the More Life the City is? China's midnight snack economy competition", He Zunying's "Food stalls, Chinese late-night cafeteria", "2017 China Internet Local Life Service Blue Book"
The pictures in this article are from Visual China, Internet
