This content comes from @WHAT IS WORTH BUYING APP, and the opinions represent only the author’s own | Author: Qianshan Xunjiu’s creative position statement: Failure to achieve perfection is really due to lack of energy. There will be a detailed breakdown later. Sorry for the typo

This content comes from @WHAT IS WORTH BUYING APP, and the opinions only represent the author's own | Author: Qianshan Xunjiu

Creative position statement: has not been perfected, because it is really not enough energy. There will be a detailed breakdown later. Sorry for the typo.

Preface

has become very busy this year. After playing for three years, there are many things that I am not used to. I don’t have time to read breaking news or write articles, but it’s better not to do this, otherwise I will be beaten up.

This article mainly introduces some events and some basic knowledge for your reference. In addition, I have been exposed to more official documents recently, so the writing style may be too formal, and the number of words is large, which may be very boring and uncomfortable. I still hope you can collect it and read it, mainly to remember the knowledge points so that you can brag when drinking later.

There are many flavors of liquor in my country. The one with the highest market share and the most well-known is the strong-flavor type, followed by the sauce-flavor type that has become famous in the past ten years, and the third one is the light-flavor type that has been popular among ancestors. From the perspective of market share, the rest of the fragrance types can be classified into other categories, but their style and characteristics have also attracted many people. The development of these other fragrance types also has their own unique names because of their outstanding style characteristics. In most cases, you first own the wine, and then you have the exclusive flavor and flavor naming.

Although there are many flavors in Chinese liquor, the most difficult thing is to establish the framework for classifying flavors. Therefore, this article starts from the first classification of flavor types in 1979. Secondly, this article is a very boring article. To be accurate, the description of craftsmanship only requires a few words. It is also inaccurate and contains too many personal feelings. Basically, I fell into the same dilemma as when I wrote the paper.

1. Liquor aroma types were officially classified for the first time in 1979.

The holding of the third wine tasting meeting actually involved a huge amount of preliminary work. Therefore, at the end of 1978, the National Famous Wine Conference was held in Changsha, Hunan and various basic tasks were started, such as: production status of well-known wineries, market development trends, establishment of candidate wines and products, review of participants, sample code numbers And tournament rounds and so on. It laid a solid foundation for the holding of the third wine tasting meeting in Dalian, Liaoning in 1979.

The definition and classification of flavor types is not something that can be accomplished overnight. Relevant professionals have left countless sweat and efforts in the development of liquor in my country. They need to be based on reality, through rigorous investigation and research, and use scientific testing as the criterion. Finally, the definition and classification of aroma types were announced for the first time at the third national wine evaluation conference, which included five categories: strong aroma, light aroma, sauce aroma, rice (paddy) aroma and other aromas. The aroma type is established based on the main flavor characteristics bred by the brewing starter, fermentation container, brewing process and other factors and the influence of this flavor in the industry.

What is certain is that the third wine review conference has made a huge contribution to the establishment of liquor-related standards, and is also an important cornerstone of the professionalization, standardization and standardization of wine reviews. A lot of anecdotes also happened at the same time.

First, let’s sort out the various tasks of this (third) wine review:

First, divide the aroma types:

Strong aroma, sauce aroma, light aroma, rice (paddy) aroma, and other aromas

Second, unify technical standards:

This wine tasting meeting summarized the description of liquor style and unified the standards. The descriptors are as follows:

Maotai-flavor wine: prominent sauce-flavor, elegant and delicate, mellow body and long aftertaste.

Luzhou-flavor wine: rich cellar aroma, sweet and sweet, harmonious aroma and long tail.

Light-flavor wine: pure and pure fragrance, coordinated flavors, mellow and sweet, with a refreshing aftertaste.

rice-flavor wine: elegant honey aroma, soft entrance, clean mouthfeel, and pleasant aftertaste.

Third, the famous wines are evaluated again:

Maotai , Fenjiu , Wuliangye, Jiannanchun , Gujing Gongjiu , Yanghe Daqu, Dongjiu , Luzhou Laojiao Tequ

Then, compare the results of the other four famous wine evaluations before and after:

The first one: held in Beijing in 1952, a total of four major liquors were evaluated. The liquors are: Maotai, Fenjiu, and Luzhou Daqu. , Xifeng wine .

The second session: held in Beijing in 1963, a total of eight famous wines were judged: Wuliangye, Gujing Gongjiu, Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Quanxing Daqu, Maotai, Xifeng, Fenjiu and Dongjiu.

The fourth session: held in Taiyuan in 1984, a total of thirteen famous wines were judged: Maotai, Fenjiu, Wuliangye, Yanghe Daqu, Jiannanchun, Gujing Gongjiu, Dongjiu, Xifeng Liquor, Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Quanxing Daqu Liquor , Shuanggou Daqu, special Yellow Crane Tower wine, Langjiu.

The fifth session: held in Hefei in 1989, a total of 17 famous wines were judged: Maotai, Fenjiu, Wuliangye, Yanghe Daqu, Jiannanchun, Gujing Gongjiu, Dongjiu , Xifeng wine, Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Quanxing Daqu wine, Shuanggou Rong Daqu wine, special Huanghelou wine, Langjiu, Wuling wine, Baofeng wine , Songhe Liangye, Tuopai Qu wine.

It can be found that Xifeng Wine is the only one missing from this famous wine title. There is a saying that after determining the flavor type and technical scale, each participating liquor needs to choose a flavor type to register, and evaluate it under the technical scale standard of the flavor type, and compare it based on the expert evaluation results and technical scale. The more consistent the score, the higher the score. Xifeng Wine submitted the light-flavor liquor , so it failed to win the award in this competition. does not discuss the rationality of this review mechanism here, nor does it discuss the rationality of this story. It is just a story told by an individual.

Let’s talk about the classification of liquor aroma types. This work is usually carried out under the auspices of China Light Industry Federation . At present, more than ten aroma types have been established, but some have not yet formed national-level implementation standards. For example: the fragrant aroma of Jiugui Liquor began to prepare for the establishment of national-level implementation standards in the second half of 2019. However, these do not prevent various aroma types of liquor from providing consumers with a diverse style of enjoyment.

The generation of aroma types needs to go through corresponding stages. At present, the first is objective and factual existence; the second is that the National Wine Appraisal Conference promotes awareness in the industry and attracts relevant parties (wine appraisal meetings, liquor industry associations, light industry-related associations, food-related associations, etc.); the third is to demonstrate, define, and review and confirm from scientific and technical means; the fourth is to regulate from regulatory implementation standards, that is, the release of implementation standards.

Luzhou-flavor liquor

At present, the national executive standard for Luzhou-flavor liquor is still GB/T 10781.1-2006. The standard was released in 2006, when Yanghe was not yet Sujiu Group (established in 2010). However, on July 24, 2018, the country issued a public solicitation for opinions on the national standard for "Luzhou-flavor liquor", in which the drafters and drafting units have greatly expanded (Gujing Gongjiu, Jiannanchun, Daohuaxiang, etc.), which is currently The strong fragrance standard has been greatly improved and improved.

[Drafting unit] China Food Fermentation Industry Research Institute , Sichuan Yibin Wuliangye Group Co., Ltd., Jiangsu Yanghe Winery Co., Ltd. , Luzhou Laojiao Co., Ltd. jointly drafted.

Luzhou Laojiao Tequ and Wuliangye are the two representatives of strong-flavor liquor in many materials (the transformation of the first Luzhou Daqu Liquor and subsequent Luzhou Laojiao Tequ will be explained in detail in subsequent articles). At the same time, there are also some strong-flavor liquors that are geographical indications: GB/T 22041-2008 geographical indication products, Guojiao 1573 liquor; GB/T 21822-2008 geographical indication products, Tuopai liquor; GB/T 21820-2008 geographical indication products , Shede liquor; GB/T 18624-2007 geographical indication products, Shuijingfang liquor; etc.

According to raw materials, strong-flavor liquor can be divided into single-grain type (such as Luzhou Laojiao) and multi-grain type (such as Wuliang liquid, Jiannanchun). However, most wineries have descriptions in the product packaging introduction, which generally use local high-quality waxy sorghum as the best. It is not ruled out that some small factories, subsidiaries of large factories, and unscrupulous wineries make false claims.

Finally, let’s talk about the production process of strong-flavor liquor in detail, mainly explaining the solid-state liquor (semi-solid will be explained later), that is, it is produced in the form of solid matrix regardless of saccharification, fermentation, and distillation.Among them, the concept of saccharification starter needs to be subdivided, mainly including Daqu, Xiaoqu, bran koji, mixed koji and other categories. Likewise, there are many ways to divide songs.

Lu-type Daqu Liquor uses mud cellars as the main fermentation container, medium-temperature Daqu made from wheat as the main saccharifying agent, fermentation agent

and flavor-generating agent. Sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, corn, wheat, etc. are the main brewing raw materials. The number of fermentation days from 45 From days to several

months, the fermented grains are transferred to steamer barrels and new materials are added, the wine is solid-state distilled, the base wine is extracted quantitatively and qualitatively ("pinch off the head and tail"),

is stored in grades, and the wine body is carefully blended and designed. , and then after post-processing and reduction, it is packaged and put on the market.

As for the quality of strong-flavor liquor, in addition to the process mainly discussed in this article, there are many influencing factors, such as: cellar mud quality, fermentation cycle (conventional cellar, production cellar, aging cellar, etc.), distillation process and entry Humidity, temperature, etc. during the cellar stage, fermentation conditions (acidity, yellow pulp water, fermented grains position, etc.), as well as certain special operations, etc. There are too many influencing factors, and it doesn’t mean that the paper doesn’t include a detailed list.

Luzhou-flavor white wine usually uses sorghum or five grains (sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, corn, wheat) as the brewing raw material, and then uses medium and high temperature Daqu as the saccharification starter and fermentation in a mud tank. The fermentation cycle usually needs to be controlled within 1-3 moon.

"Thousand-year-old cellar, ten thousand years of fragrant grains, cooked bran mixture, long-term fermentation, layered distillation, quality wine picking, and careful blending"

This is a concise and general statement. It is an incisive summary of the production technology of strong-flavor liquor.

Sichuan style strong incense is produced by the "original cellar method (Luzhou)" and "running cellar method (Wuliangye)", while Huanghuai style strong incense is produced by the "mixed steaming and mixed burning Laowu steamer technology (Yanghe Daqu)" or Laoliu steamer Produced according to the law, the ingredients are added, the wine is picked for quantity and quality, and stored in different grades. Luzhou-flavor liquor has a high content of esters, accounting for about 60% of the total aroma components. Among them, the four major esters are mainly ethyl hexanoate, ethyl lactate, ethyl acetate , and ethyl butyrate. , among which ethyl hexanoate is the main fragrance and has the highest content among the four major esters. The high content and low threshold of ethyl hexanoate determine the main flavor characteristics of this aromatic liquor. The content of organic acids in strong-flavor liquor is second only to ester components, accounting for about 15% of the total aroma components. Corresponding to the four major esters, caproic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, and butyric acid are The four major acids of strong-flavor liquor. Among the many fragrance components, ester components mainly play a fragrance-presenting role, while organic acids mainly play a taste-presenting role.

But in fact, each winery has its own characteristics under the above general expression. Its style characteristics:

can be subdivided from the strong-flavor style, which can be divided into Sichuan style and other schools. Among the other schools, the strong-flavor liquor from the Jianghuai region is the most famous. The strong-flavor liquor of this school has a sweet taste. It has the characteristics of mellow and elegant (so far, I personally feel that the floral and fruity aroma has become more intense); while the Sichuan style strong-flavor liquor has an obvious aroma, the cellar aroma is very obvious, and the taste is sweet and meaningful. This summary is a bit of a personal understanding, because in actual products, the differences need to be evaluated in more detail. It has always been said that "raw materials" are the first brewing workshop. From the perspective of raw materials, sorghum crops from the same family in the north and south form different species, and the starch linear chains and branched chains (more important) they contain are different. tannins There are also differences in the content of , and there are also reasons for the difference in styles between Sichuan and Jianghuai schools. Of course, the raw materials used for koji are also different, and the fermentation cycle is also different. There is a saying in the industry:

The use of materials is the premise, the use of music is the foundation, and the technology is the key.

Even among the strong-flavor liquors that use ethyl hexanoate as the aroma substance, many different styles have been created.

Of course, in addition to the Jianghuai style, there are also many northern strong-flavor wine products. Personally, I feel that it is related to the local humanistic concepts. The wine-making style feels relatively informal, and I like to work hard to create miracles. Of course, there are also differences in the usage; After drinking it, I felt a bit off-flavored and had swollen eyes. I won’t mention the specific product, but I’ll just call him Wang.

Let’s talk about brands again. I will talk about my feelings about the strong fragrance characteristics of each brand. I will talk about Luzhou Laojiao first.For a long time in the past, the strong-flavor type was called "Lu type". The cellar aroma and the bad aroma are more prominent than other (strong-flavor brands), and the aroma is longer; compared to Luzhou Laojiao, I can feel that Wuliangye The aroma of grain is more obvious and the aroma is stronger; Jiannanchun The direct line has a woody fragrance; Tuopai Sheshe has an advantage in mellowness at the same price in the mid-range; Gujing Gong has an orchid fragrance; Yanghe's current height is a headache, but the 40.8 has all the fragrances coordinated, gentle and elegant; now Shuijingfang in Quanxing, The taste is elegant but not light (compared to Yanghe), sweet and fragrant. A few days ago, my old man was reminiscing with me about the time in 1992 when he drank Quanxing Daqu. I asked him how it was? He said that it was very refreshing, and it was an extremely good wine at that time.

Just pat

Speaking of Shuijingfang, I would like to say that Shuijingfang Jingtai used to be GB/T18624, but now it has to be changed to GB/T10781.1. In fact, is the original geographically labeled product, and everyone has tasted it and understands its quality. There is still gold content. I don’t want to buy a well platform this year, I just want to stock up on a collection of masters. The rest are Guojiao, Puwu, and 1618. I don’t plan to buy the mid-to-low-end ones anymore, I won’t recommend the Golden Sword anymore, I won’t buy the Tequ either, and Blue is even less likely. At these price points, I may have to switch to other fragrances.

Luzhou Laojiao actually has a good hand. Under the banner of "the earliest built, most perfectly preserved, continuously used, 400-year-old cellar in the country" and the title of "the leader in the wine industry and the originator of strong aroma", Guozitouchi. The technological characteristics of its benchmark product can be summarized as "continued lees ingredients, solid-state fermentation, mud cellar to produce aroma, esterification and aging", which has also won the title of famous wine in five consecutive wine evaluations. The remaining two brands are "Maoxiang type Moutai and Fenxiang type Fenjiu". According to Luzhou Fen, in the late 1980s and 1990s, Luzhou played a decisive role in formulating the implementation standards for strong aroma, and its technology was also an important material for major wineries to study and discuss. Of course, the technology is not static. Luzhou developed the "original cellar stratification" brewing technology based on the "original cellar method".

In the brewing of strong-flavor wine, the fermentation of the fermented grains in a cellar is uneven (differences between the upper, middle and lower layers of grains), and the quality of the wine distilled from each cellar is also different. The original cellar method is also called the original cellar pool layered grain stacking method. The operating characteristics of this process are as follows: except for the dough grains and bottom grains, the fermented grains in the cellar pool are mixed, new grains and auxiliary materials are added, and the fermented grains are distilled. After the wine is cooked, it is steamed and gelatinized, and an appropriate amount of hot water is added. The koji is left to dry and mixed before being returned to the original cellar for sealed fermentation. After the fermentation of this sequence is completed, the cellar grains will be transported layer by layer to the pile dam and placed according to levels. Remove the grains first, then take the upper grains above the yellow water line, and then perform the dripping operation. The dripping time should not be shorter than 10 hours; after the dripping is completed, remove the lower grains and place them on top of the stacked upper grains. Above, if there are double-wheeled bottom fermented grains in the cellar, the double-wheeled bottomed fermented grains should be stacked separately or on top of the lower layer of fermented grains, and so on, for continuous production. The "original cellar layered" brewing process is to maximize the strengths and avoid the weaknesses of the differences between fermentation and distillation and treat them separately. This method can be summarized as "layered grain feeding, staged fermentation, layered grain stacking, layered distillation, staged wine picking, and staged quality classification", which is referred to as the "six-point method".

Nowadays, Luzhou Laojiao looks like this. In addition to the "stratification of the original cellar" mentioned above, there are also "segmented qu sand turning technology", "standardized segmented qu sand turning technology", "qu sand turning with mud" ”, “Bacteria-recovering mud and sand turning” and other new technologies. The emergence of new technologies and expansion of production and quality improvement are all effective, but "it is difficult for a clever woman to make a meal without rice", and the output of core and cutting-edge cellars is actually insufficient. From one floor to the next, the number of cellars increases and they are distributed in a pyramid. And there are always new cellars appearing. The lowest-level wines will always use the lowest-level cellars. Products at all levels continue to fill the product system. The quality of high-end products will also be diluted by the output, not to mention the increasingly large ration wines. need. In fact, it was the company that led the development trend of liquor for decades.Tracing back to its origins, in 1952, 36 koji wine workshops including "Wen Yongsheng" began joint operation and integration, and were named "Sichuan Provincial Monopoly Company's First State-owned Winery". It must have dared to be named the first winery in the wine province at that time It has obvious strength. Later, wineries or workshops in Luzhou successively started joint ventures, called "State-owned Luzhou Winery". After the merger of the two, it was renamed "State-owned Luzhou Qu Winery". I found out from some information of Mr. Chen Maochun that the brewing technology in Luzhou was the first winery to achieve systematization, standardization and scientificization at that time. During the first five-year plan period, people from all over the country went to Luzhou to visit and study. Later, the "State-owned Luzhou Qu Distillery" underwent another merger and was renamed (1961) to "Luzhou Qu Distillery". In 1964, it was renamed again to "Sichuan Province Luzhou Qu Distillery". It was not until August 1990 that the name was changed to "Luzhou Laojiao Winery", which was linked with the winery name, brand name and characteristics of the Laojiao Pool for the first time. Subsequently, it was reorganized in 1993, listed in 1994, and a group was established in 2000, named " Luzhou Laojiao Group Co., Ltd. ".

can be found that the listing was ahead of Wuliangye and Maotai, but now it is falling further and further behind, until it completely lost the battle with Baijiu for third place in 2014. There are still many stories in it. The creation of the Guojiao brand, the origin of the concept of Tequ, the benchmark of Daqu liquor, etc. A few years ago, I have been eyeing Guojiao's "Wine in Life" series. In the past six months or so, I have found that the price is higher. After the new vintage is released, Guojiao has the idea of ​​​​creating a collection of popular series, and the activities are very strong. . However, the posture is more complicated. It not only needs to be purchased with a suitable app, but also needs to be combined with the gifts in the store. Of course, there are many choices in this series. It is recommended that you keep an eye on the official stores of Tmall and Jingdong , as well as their WeChat official store. However, it is more cost-effective to buy more and become a high-level member.

Maotai-flavor liquor

At present, the national executive standard for Maotai-flavor liquor is: GB/T 26760-2011.

[Draftsmen] Ji Keliang, Feng Yongyu, Tian Zhiqiang, Xun Siying, Jiang Yingli, Wang Li, Zhong Fangda, Wang Diqiang, Meng Wangni, Liu Yuchi, Su Zhouwei, Zhang Qian, Yang Guoxian, Xiao Yang.

[Drafting Unit] National Alcohol and Beverage Quality Supervision and Inspection Center, Guizhou Provincial Product Quality Inspection and Testing Institute, China Kweichow Moutai Distillery Co., Ltd. , Sichuan Langjiu Co., Ltd., Kweichow Moutai Distillery (Group) Xijiu Co., Ltd., Shandong Qingzhou Yunmen Employment (Group) Co., Ltd.

The above rankings are in order, which to a large extent represent the industry’s right to speak in Maotai-flavor liquor. To some extent, it is also a reflection of technical level. Therefore, I write it down to give you a reference. It goes without saying that Moutai is a distillery that will take a long time to describe. It is located in Moutai Town, Renhuai County, Guizhou Province. Currently, there is no clear and scientific explanation of its origin. The available history is that it was built in the eighth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty ( 1803), the donor has the words "Yamato Burning House". Before liberation, Moutai was divided into Chengyi (1851), Ronghe (1862) and Hengxing (named Hengchang in 1929 and later renamed); in order, they were Huamao, Wangmao and Laimao . Judging from the data on the eve of liberation, the annual output of the three companies was less than 60 tons. In 1951, the state took over private wineries and merged them into the local state-owned Moutai Winery in Guizhou Province. It won the title of one of the four famous wines at the first wine evaluation meeting the following year (1952). However, the production of Moutai liquor at that time was still very old, and the proportion of manual equipment and labor was quite high, which caused great obstacles to the quality, efficiency and safety of production. Therefore, after the second wine evaluation meeting, Moutai began scientific and technological transformation with the theme of "increasing production and ensuring quality". Because many traditional skills (or crafts) in Chinese history were passed down from generation to generation, there was a lack of clear and instructive graphic and textual materials to some extent, which resulted in the technology being chronological and lost to inheritance. Some process procedures are just complicated mechanical work, which can be replaced by mechanized equipment, so that manpower can be utilized in higher-value processes.When Mr. Xiong Zishu passed away last year, I read some of his articles, and he mentioned that after the merger of Moutai Distillery, there were problems of "rough operation, extensive management, and non-standard technology" for a long time, especially " large-scale production fermentation". The phenomenon of cake formation in grains (wine fermented grains) is called "burning buns and seeds". It is said that the problem was solved by drawing on the experience of the tube cellar of "Luzhou Daqu Liquor" at that time. Luzhou did have quite a lot of merits at the time, but later it failed, a good example of "if you don't advance, you will retreat."

At that time, the transformation work carried out by Moutai Distillery was also reflected in other distilleries at the same time. It was a project included in the 12-year long-term development plan of the National Science and Technology Commission of my country in 1956. Take Moutai Distillery as an example: At the beginning of its work (1959-1960),

summarized its operating characteristics, which include high-temperature koji making, high-temperature accumulation, high-temperature fermentation, high-temperature wine flowing and long storage period, which are called "four highs and one high". Using the "long" operation method, the product has a unique and elegant sauce-flavor flavor, which is unique and has become a typical representative of the sauce-flavor liquor, also known as Mao type. During the period, sorghum is used as the raw material for brewing, and high-temperature koji is used as the saccharification starter. Because high-temperature koji has a high product temperature during the koji-making process, it contains fewer microbial species than low-temperature koji and medium-temperature koji, so the saccharification power is low and the amount of koji used is large. , the grain to koji ratio is 1:1 On the left and right, a stone cellar (surrounded by stone walls and a mud bottom) is used for fermentation. One year is a large production cycle, with eight rounds of fermentation and seven wine extractions. It can be summarized as the "four highs and two longs" process. "High" refers to high-temperature koji making (around 65°C) and high-temperature stacking (4 5~50℃), high-temperature fermentation (around 42~45℃), high-temperature wine flow (around 40℃), "two long" refers to the long fermentation period (one year is a large production cycle) and the long storage period (usually The sauce-flavor type must be at least three years old, while Moutai must be at least five years old.)

Maotai-flavor liquor has as many as 1,400 aroma components For the rest, the total acid content is higher than that of strong-flavor liquor and light-flavor liquor, the total ester content is lower than that of strong-flavor liquor, the total alcohol content is high, and the content of aldehyde and ketone compounds is high, especially the content of furfural ranks first among all flavor liquors. The most distinguishing feature of Maotai-flavor liquor from other flavor liquors is the long-lasting aroma in an empty cup. This may be related to the large number and types of high-boiling-point compounds in Maotai-flavor liquor.

said that the reason for standardization and systematization is mainly to ensure the quality and taste stability of the wine. Stability means that the fluctuation of quality is the result of subjective consciousness control and the result of product echelon adjustment. Then talking about product echelon adjustment, Xinmao in the past two years, well... After I increased the price from Feitian to 2,300, I found that last year’s price of more than 2,600 fine wine merchants and this year’s price of more than 2,700 fine cats super comprehensive posture Real price, very attractive to me.

Talking about research work, the technological advancement of Maotai-flavor liquor is largely achieved by Moutai, a representative distillery. The development process of Maotai-flavor liquor is often just Moutai's "personal stage show." After the renovation of the winery, a round of scientific and technological pilot work began, and the result was a summary of "three typical styles of Maotai liquor, namely, sauce-flavored type, cellar bottom-flavored type, and mellow-sweet flavored type." This achievement greatly promoted the subsequent work on flavor classification and Moutai blending technology (1965), and ten years later (1975) the Moutai plate hook technology was proposed. Among them, technical staff Mr. Ji Keliang shined brightly. Later (1982), the Guizhou Provincial Light Industry Research Institute conducted research on the main aroma of Moutai liquor and believed that the sauce aroma of Moutai liquor is a compound aroma composed of two parts: "front aroma" and "after aroma". The "front aroma" is mainly esters, and the "back aroma" is mainly acidic substances, which are the characteristic components of "the aroma in an empty cup" and have a greater effect on the flavor of sauce.

Regarding the concepts of Kunsha, broken sand, turning sand and channeling sand:

According to the above order, the bottom line and the highest wine quality that Kunsha can achieve are the highest among the four. These four categories of sauce wine are a division model that determines the process flow through raw materials. This type of description is more like a way of saying it by practitioners, which facilitates communication among peers. It has not been circulating in the circle for too long, and ordinary consumers will usually only ask if it is pure grain.Back to Kunsha Liquor, look at the encyclopedia description:

According to the traditional craftsmanship of Maotai Liquor, complete particles of red tasseled sorghum are used, which are mixed with distiller’s yeast at a ratio of 1:1 before and after the Double Ninth Festival every year (commonly known as Add sand), nine times of steaming, eight times of drying and seven times of drying: nine times of steaming, the original wine distilled for the first time should not be added to the raw materials, and dried in the sun. During the brewing, two feedings, eight times of high-temperature accumulation fermentation (one week each time) and eight times of cellaring ( Each time (one month), the wine is distilled seven times. The raw wine taken out is stored in the cellar for three years. After three years, it is blended and seasoned. It is then stored in the cellar for another year and finally inspected before leaving the factory.

There are differences in the traditional craftsmanship among various sects, but they are similar. The big similarities determine the fragrance type, and the small differences are one of the reasons that determine the quality to a large extent.

First, the raw materials. It uses red tasseled sorghum with complete grains. Under this premise, it can be divided into several types. In this brewing system, the effect of improving quality is reduced. Local high-quality red-tasseled small-grained waxy sorghum. The so-called high quality needs to meet the following conditions: (The less one you are satisfied with, the lower the quality will be.)

The sorghum is reddish brown, not white, with solid, full, uniform particles, no mildew, no pollution, and a glassy cross-section.

Because "local high-quality red-eared small-grain waxy sorghum" has the characteristics of small particles, thick skin, oblate and firm, it will have the advantages of being dry, resistant to cooking, resistant to turning, and not easy to gelatin, and the local crops contain The proportion of amylopectin is much higher than that of ordinary sorghum, usually about 90%. The contrast here is usually to the north. These advantages largely meet the needs of authentic high-end Moutai liquor, which requires a long production cycle, multiple cooking, mixing, fermentation and gradual gelatinization. And these will largely be small-scale and systematic production, similar to the Wuchang rice production that Sange recently asked about, but it requires the use of pure natural green organic raw materials and no pesticides in the planting stage, and in 2001 Moutai has been certified as "organic food" by the State Environmental Protection Administration. It is said that materials from other places can only be picked up 5 times for wine, which is not possible. I don’t produce and don’t know, I just heard.

Then, make the music. Moutai Daqu is a traditional high-temperature sauce-flavored Daqu, usually made from wheat. In summary:

makes koji with raw ingredients and makes koji in an open way to increase the total amount of microorganisms. Moutai Laimao has a product called "Duanqu", which means making koji during the Dragon Boat Festival. From the perspective of solar terms, the summer solstice is close to the Dragon Boat Festival. This stage is high and humid, and microorganisms are active, making it a good time for making koji. For the brewing of Moutai, there is not much manual intervention (the warehouse is turned over every seven days to ensure that the koji pieces are fermented evenly). The koji is made at high temperature, and the yellow one after the koji is formed is the best. The production of Moutai Daqu takes about 40 days and reaches a temperature of up to 60 degrees. It needs to be stored in a dry koji warehouse for at least half a year before being put into use. During this period, the aroma of the koji will continue to increase. In fact, there are three types of finished koji: yellow, white and black. White koji is due to the low internal temperature of the raw materials and insufficient fermentation, but its saccharification rate is relatively high; on the contrary, black koji is too high and the saccharification rate is too high. It is low and accompanied by burnt bitterness; yellow koji is the best, with full fragrance and excellent quality.

Then comes the wine-making stage, which starts with the Double Ninth Festival and lasts for one year. I just mentioned that the particles should be complete. In fact, it does not require 100% completeness, but according to the standard ratio. The first time (Double Ninth Festival) is 80% complete particles and 20% broken, and the second time (one month later) is 70%. % whole granules and 30% crushed. After fermentation for one month, the wine is roasted (steamed) out of the cellar. From then on, the wine is roasted once every month of fermentation, for a total of 7 roasts. Only the Daqu is added and no ingredients are added. The same batch of raw materials has to go through 9 times of cooking, 8 times of adding koji, stacking fermentation, cellar fermentation, and 7 times of roasting before the wine is discarded. It lasted for 1 year. In addition, you also need to pay attention to tasks such as "high-temperature accumulation fermentation, high-temperature wine collection, stratified distillation, cellaring with wine to raise grains, and alcohol content control", which will be detailed later.

The last stage is the storage and blending (blending, habitually use the term blending, this kind of blending is different from the kind of blending with artificial additives, there is a difference between your own freshly made broth and Taobao broth powder mixed with water) stage. It is the tradition of Moutai that it can enter the blending stage only after it has been aged for a long time.Because freshly baked new wine is highly irritating and contains more impurities such as sulfides and sulfides, this part of the wine can be improved through various chemical reactions and physical changes after aging. Not only the palatability is improved, but also the negative impact on the human body is reduced. Regarding the statements of "keeping it for three years before blending it" and "5 pounds of grain produce 1 pound of wine", and the resulting low output (perceived to be low), they have nothing to do with the scarcity of authentic high-end Moutai wine. I will make a detailed list later.

Moutai is made by blending raw wines from different production rounds, three different styles and different ages. There are many types of Moutai original wine, with 1-7 rounds of wine. Each round of wine is divided into three typical types: sauce aroma, mellow sweetness, and cellar bottom. Each type of wine is divided into 3 levels. In addition, When blending, seasoning wine with unique flavors and old wines of different years are also used. Among all liquors, Moutai uses the most types of single liquors. To blend a cup of Moutai that meets the standards in color, aroma and taste, more than 100 single liquors must be used.

Let’s talk about Kunsha wine again. Most of the wines that use this concept as a selling point are not on the market, and no one would doubt that the wines that are on the market are not Kunsha. Moreover, there are many ambiguities and unclear points in the concept of Kunsha wine, and loopholes are often taken advantage of by those who are interested in it. There are no corresponding mandatory implementation standards as constraints. This is a statement that is better than nothing. Moreover, as mentioned before, the raw materials are: whether they are local, whether they are small grains, whether they are of qualified quality, etc. There are too many places where corners can be cut. Different types of raw materials will make obvious differences in brewing. Speaking of not being on the stage, it has a personal emotional component, and it also refers to suppressing wine. Another thing about the local small and medium-sized wineries in Maotai Town is that the raw material for the authentic high-end Maotai wine - local high-quality small-grain red-tasseled glutinous sorghum. The output is limited, regardless of whether the annual growth is limited, and most of it is purchased by Maotai. The remaining small part may be given to small wine factories in Zhenzhen. For example, there are only a few towns in the core rice production area of ​​Wuchang. Basically all of them have been taken away. In addition, only the traditional farming model can be used, making it difficult to form large-scale planting. , in the end there are some genuine ones circulating in the market. This raw material is also scarce in Maotai Town. Maotai can afford the price because it can be sold at a high price with the brand markup. Similarly, during the past downturn, Maotai was also supporting and subsidizing these farmers. The establishment of long-term relationships is difficult to break. If you can't get good raw materials, you can only buy second-class ones, and occasionally mix in some good ones to enhance the flavor. Even if they are good raw materials, people sell more of them, and what you get may not be what you think. . It is difficult to build a brand. These bosses cannot make long-term money, so they can only rely on these methods. Even the storage time cannot be guaranteed. Making money is too impatient in today's society. The wine industry supports too many business people. Nowadays, those who make videos to promote goods, promote soft articles, and sell niche wines. The less market awareness of the wine, the more money they make. I think outsiders like me know that building a brand well can make money in the long run. They must also know it, but few people would choose this. You ask me to buy Zhenjiu. Firstly, the brand is low and I can’t use it, so I can only drink it myself. Secondly, the technical level is really high now. As early as 10 years ago, it was still possible to mix water with water to see pure grains, but later it was no longer possible; technological improvement was originally a good opportunity to improve quality and create excellence, but as a result, increasing production was the first priority, and maintaining quality was the second. Even technology has been used to fool people. Why do implementation standards need to be constantly updated? It’s because there are loopholes in previous statements that can be exploited and need to be plugged. The national standard is already the minimum standard and the bottom line. To cross the bottom line is to really scold people. To put it very pessimistically, I don’t want to buy Zhenjiu because I don’t want to test human nature.

The picture I have been looking for for a long time (deleted due to infringement, taken from Luzhou official website)

Let’s talk about broken sand wine, which is usually referred to as the craft of braised rice wine with soybean flavor. It is necessary to use a high proportion or even 100% crushed sorghum to make wine, a quick and high-quality wine making process. Fansha uses the lees of Kunsha wine, and then puts in a certain amount of crushed sorghum and Daqu for brewing. The time cycle is shorter, and the quality is not comparable to that of crushed sand, but they are not very good, mainly because the cost is lower.Chuansha wine, also called Chuanxiang, is commonly known as "bath water for distiller's grains". The edible alcohol is passed through the distiller's grains with water and soaked with some smell. It is actually alcoholic wine. It costs 2 yuan. Whether to buy it or not is still a question. In addition, Taobao has negotiated a good batch quantity. The logistics fee is 2 yuan 8, and the free shipping is 9 yuan 9 and you can earn 5 yuan. The raw material cost of two yuan is estimated to be able to buy 1 tael of local high-quality small-grain red-tasseled glutinous sorghum.

Let’s talk about the price of wine. Last year, Maotaijiu generally rose. Not only the market price of first-tier Maotai, but also second-tier Langjiu and Xijiu, as well as third-tier wineries. In fact, these price increase plans have been laid down in 2018, including those of many Luzhou-flavor wineries. There are indeed some things that are "a leaf blocking the eye". 2018 is basically bearish. On the one hand, there are rumors about the economic downturn that are prevalent on the Internet. On the other hand, it is deeply felt that the audience for liquor is shrinking. It’s understandable that Maotai will rise again and again, and the second-tier winery will also rise in the same way. The operation of the third-tier winery is a bit confusing to me. For Moutai, no matter which line its sub-brands come from, resource allocation and publicity are all about ensuring the interests of high-end Moutai. High-quality raw materials are gradually being taken away or used for Feitian Moutai and above, or for custom wine. In terms of raw materials alone, the competition among sauce wine factories is quite fierce. If the market continues to be hot, prices will inevitably rise. The current situation is not good, but there are still news that some products have raised prices, and even some wines that were deeply involved in the additive controversy last year have also raised their ex-factory prices. In fact, as I thought at the beginning of the year, rations and high-end products are less affected. In summary, "you have to drink when you need to, and you can't save when you save." Because the audiences of these two levels have different origins and the same appearance. Can afford it. Reflecting on the price increase in the past six months, it is somewhat interesting. In addition to the large-scale single products with sufficient confidence, there are also many third-tier and fourth-tier winery brands with "a fierce reputation". However, it is estimated that these prices will be difficult to implement in the market in a short period of time, and the timing of price increases is also very particular. Generally, the implementation date is more than a month later, and people may have forgotten to mention the price by then. From what I understand, many products have actually experienced serious price cuts. Some sauce distillery factories have experienced extremely high prices for their core products, and the short-term increases are also severe. I don’t know if they can withstand it, but I’m not optimistic about it. After all, for series products like Laimao and Prince, the prices of the entire series are loose. This is true for new products such as Laimao Collection Jinzun Red Royal Classic, the same is true for Prince's sauce-flavored classics, and even more so for Golden Prince Black Gold. Among the two series, only Prince Pu and Heritage are strong. I am not optimistic about the price increases of these third-tier sauce distilleries and liquor distilleries, and plan to wait until they collapse before harvesting. Pu Mao lives his daily life by buying and selling cats, lions and dogs.

Light-flavor liquor

At present, the national executive standard for light-flavor liquor is: GB/T 10781.2-2006, which replaces GB/T 10781.2-1989 and GB/T 11859.2-1989. The current standard of

has been released for exactly 14 years. In fact, this standard has become a mere formality, but it has not been improved as it should be, which is a pity.

In addition to the China Food Fermentation Industry Research Institute, the only drafting unit of this standard is " Shanxi Xinghuacun Fenjiu Group Co., Ltd. ". Naturally, its position in the industry is the top spot. -The boss of Fen from 1970 to 1980 had a competitor at that time, and the saying "South Tower and North Fen" was also spread for some time. In the past, you could find a bottle of old Huanghelou at home. According to my old man, after the Huanghelou wine stopped working, the smoke of Huanghelou began to take off. The story of Fenjiu and Yellow Crane Tower also has a lot to chew on. I have been delaying Xiao Xiaozui’s manuscript for nearly half a month recently because I am too busy with family matters. By the way, I also want to talk about Baofeng Wine. The process of light-flavor liquor, in simple terms:

Light-flavor liquor uses sorghum as the brewing raw material, low-temperature Daqu made from barley and peas as the saccharification fermentation agent, solid-state fermentation in the ground vat, steaming and secondary cleaning process, and the fermentation period is about 28 days. In the process operation, we pay attention to the "four specialities", namely, moisture accumulation, low-temperature fermentation, high-level wine picking, and appropriate storage.

The types and contents of aroma components of light-flavor liquor are much less than that of sauce-flavor liquor and strong-flavor liquor, and it belongs to the smaller category among Daqu liquor. Similarly, light-flavor liquor also has the common characteristics of liquor, with a pure and clear texture, a rich aroma, and a mellow and dry taste.As for the typical representatives, Daqu is the main one, and there are also Xiaoqu Fenjiu, Erguotou and other factions. In the 1970s and 1980s, Fenjiu relied on its own advantages to capture most of the country's market, accounting for nearly 80% of the market. Fenjiu is truly the boss, accounting for a higher share of the entire strong-flavor market today. Specifically, it is mainly reflected in three aspects: First, for Fenjiu manufacturers, the production cycle is short, the wine storage time is short, the production cost is low, and the capital requirements are low; and the ratio of raw materials to wine is high, which was affected by the The grain output is small and the restrictions are small. The second is that for consumers, the taste itself is not strong, mellow, sweet and clean; it is also close to the drinking habits of international consumers and is in line with the international market. The third is that it satisfies the demand for prepared wine. Because it has a small special smell, it is easy to produce medicinal wine, dew wine, etc., such as Bamboo Leaf Green.

Liquor aroma components are complex. The source of aroma substances is inseparable from the production process of liquor. Microorganisms convert starch, protein and other substances to generate alcohols, aldehydes, acids, ketones, esters and other substances. The proportion of ingredients varies in different environments and raw material parameters. The influences vary widely, and many researchers are still studying the specific effects of certain brewing processes on finished wine. It is impossible to say that a thorough study is possible. For brewing technology, "knowing it but not knowing why" is a common phenomenon. Research work still needs to be continued. It is disrespectful to science to say that it is impossible to replicate a wine. Different batches of the same wine cannot be said to be exactly the same.

Different liquors use different raw materials and auxiliary materials, and the components of different raw materials are also very different, which provides rich precursors for the aroma substances of liquor. For example, rice is rich in alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, esters, phenols, lactones, acetals, furans, pyrazines, thiophenes, thiazoles and other compounds; corn is rich in aromatic compounds; peas are rich in Rich in pyrazine compounds, etc. The metabolites of starch, protein, fat, tannin, pectin and lignin in auxiliary materials after microbial fermentation are basically the aroma components of liquor. Lactic acid, acetic acid and higher alcohols come from the degradation and transformation of starch in grains, higher fatty acid ethyl esters come from the esterification of fatty acids in grains, methanol is derived from the enzymatic hydrolysis of pectin, etc. Some of the aroma components are produced during the making of koji cakes, while other aroma components are formed during the brewing process.

Some Fenjiu wines use grain bran as an auxiliary material during the brewing process. I think its main role is to achieve the purpose of incense through reaction. Since its development, pioneering researchers have conducted countless studies and explorations on raw materials, processes and environmental factor control. In the 1970s and 1980s, in addition to the Maotai-flavor pangou technology and Luzhou Daqu liquor, which originated in the 1960s, The country vigorously develops technological research and pilot projects. Fenjiu’s journey in technology and craftsmanship also started at that time. In 1964, not only was it proposed that ethyl hexanoate was the main aroma of strong aroma, but the Fenjiu pilot work organized by the former Ministry of Light Industry in the same year also came up with similar results. Results - Ethyl acetate is the main aroma component of Fenjiu liquor. At the same time, the koji-making work of Fenjiu was also systematically adjusted in 1964:

Fenjiu Daqu is made from barley, peas and well water, and is one of the ancient koji varieties in my country. However, in the early years, brewing in the Fenjiu region relied on oral instruction and hands-on teaching. This inheritance relationship was relatively closed and the productivity was not high. When the demand is high, or even when there are not enough big songs, you need to buy them from specialized music-making workshops, and the quality level is uneven. After liberation, systematic production and manufacturing began, and unified koji-making technology and quality were formed. After 1954, three types of koji, namely Qingshu koji, Houhuo koji and Hongxin koji, were successively produced. However, the raw materials of the three are generally similar. The ratio of barley and peas is 6:4, and the raw materials need to be crushed to ensure that 35%-40% pass through the 0.3mm sieve, and their volume is like millet grains. Moreover, the water used for making koji also has temperature requirements. Usually 48-50kg of water is added to 100kg of raw materials. Of course, there will be slight adjustments due to differences in varieties. For example, less clear-cut koji and more post-fire koji should be used. The water used for treading should be clean well water. In summer, use cool water with a water temperature of 15-18 degrees; in winter, use warm water at 30-35 degrees.When adding water to knead the dough, mix it thoroughly so that it has no dry dough, no lumps, is loose, and can be formed into a ball when held in hand. The mixed koji-making raw materials should be immediately pressed into koji blanks. After the curds are placed in the room and arranged, they can be divided into five stages: mold application, mold drying, wet fire, dry fire and post-fire. Finally, it needs to be stored for half a year.

In February 2018, China Resources strategically invested in Fenjiu and became the second largest shareholder of Fenjiu. Fenjiu, which is in the second-tier distillery, although it is the leader in the light-flavor category, has not yet reached the first-tier level. The high-end products in the product system can only exist in the market as mid-range liquor. The most popular one in the market is the cheap Bo Fen. series. China Resources' strategic investment has given Fenjiu great confidence. It has not only reshaped the product system and cleaned up the dilution of brand value by group wines. While Bofen has repeatedly raised prices, it has also established a product system represented by Blue and White Fenjiu. Then, the Blue and White Fenjiu series took off. The Blue and White Fen 20 I can buy has increased by 50%, and the Blue and White Fen 30 has also increased by 50%. Still, this product is worth trying.

Rice-flavor liquor

At present, the national executive standard for rice-flavor liquor is: GB/T 10781.3-2006, which replaces GB/T 10781.3-1989 and GB/T 11859.3-1989.

According to the definition given by the "National Standard of the People's Republic of China (GB/T10781.3-2006)", rice-flavor liquor is made from rice as raw material through traditional semi-solid fermentation, distillation, aging and blending. There is no added edible alcohol or non-flavor substances produced by liquor fermentation, and it is a liquor with a compound aroma mainly composed of ethyl lactate, ethyl acetate and β-phenylethyl alcohol.

Rice-flavored liquor uses rice as the brewing raw material, Xiaoqu as the saccharification starter, and the pottery vat as the fermentation container. In the early stage, it is solid-state culture and saccharification, and in the later stage, it is liquid fermentation and distillation in a still. The fermentation period is short, usually about 10 days. . Rice-flavor liquor uses Xiaoqu as the saccharification starter, so the amount of Qu used is less and the wine yield is high. The main components of the fragrance are ethyl lactate, ethyl acetate and an appropriate amount of β-phenylethyl alcohol. The content of ethyl lactate is higher than that of ethyl acetate, and the ratio between the two is about 2~3:1. The content of higher alcohols is higher than that of esters, among which isoamyl alcohol has the highest content, which can reach up to 160mg/100ml. Among organic acids, the lactic acid content is the highest, accounting for about 90% of the total acid content, and the content of aldehydes and ketones is relatively low. Rice-flavored liquor uses rice as the raw material for brewing, so its taste is sweeter, softer and less irritating, but it has a stuffy feeling. The total amount of aroma components is much less than that of strong-flavor and sauce-flavor liquors, so the taste is shorter but the aftertaste is clean and refreshing.

Rice-flavor liquor has a feature that attracts more attention, which is semi-solid fermentation. At present, the representative wine is Guilin's Sanhua wine, and of course Changle Shaojiu and Xiangshan wine. Moreover, the process used in the original rice-flavored liquor was relatively traditional, including soaking raw materials, draining, steaming rice, cooling, mixing small songs, cultivating bacteria in the vat for saccharification, replenishing water, rotating vat fermentation, and distilling to make liquor. Initially, this traditional model had unstable wine quality due to the difficulty in ensuring the stability of the culture and saccharification stage and the high proportion of manual operations. But in general, the proportion of alcohols is higher than that of esters, which is said to be the reason why this type of wine is “high”. In addition, there is a semi-solid fermentation process of Rhizopus koji, which uses pure Rhizopus koji and yeast to replace the traditional culture saccharification. In this way, although there has been some improvement, it has still not been fundamentally solved. Some people also want to use other substances to reduce the excessive production of alcohols and alcohols.

In fact, craftsmanship is just a tool that can be continuously optimized. What ultimately determines the quality of a product is the effort and sweat people put into the product from generation to generation. If you want to make good wine, you can make it in semi-solid and liquid forms; if you want to waste money, if solid state standards are fully implemented, some people will find loopholes.

2. Improvement of the 4th flavor classification in 1984

Thick sauce and flavor liquor

Currently, the national executive standard for thick sauce and flavor liquor is: GB/T 23547-2009, which replaced GB/T 2524- 2001.

In fact, the two lakes are separated by a narrow strip of water and have deep friendship, close connections and common ground.In 1974, the National Winemaking Work Conference held in Changsha, Hunan Province, when evaluating products from various places, gave considerable affirmation to "baiyunbian wine" (Songjiang Daqu at the time) and "baisha liquid", which were said to be unique at the time. , it has the flavor of thick sauce but not completely similar. It is the first time that the concept of having both the style of thick sauce is proposed.

At the Changsha Conference in 1978, the term "flavor type" was first proposed, mainly to gain an advantage in wine judging competitions. However, the definition of dual-flavor type is not clear. After discussion and voting by the wine evaluation committee, the dual-flavor type was eliminated in this year's wine evaluation and was called other flavor types. Of course, in the third wine review in 1979, "Baiyunbian" was not included in the eight famous wines, but it also won the title of "High-Quality Wine". In the fourth season, many wineries have strongly requested to add many categories for separate tasting. For example, Xifeng wine in the previous story, Baiyunbian still won the title of "high-quality wine", as well as Xiling Tequ and China Yuquan wine. .

Baiyunbian was born in the early 1970s. It is said that "the public relations team visited Mao twice and Sichuan three times." However, the visit to Sichuan at that time was mainly to learn Luzhou craftsmanship. For Baiyunbian at that time, its production process was an innovative combination of the high-temperature koji and high-temperature accumulation of the "sauce-flavor" craft essence at that time, and the continued ballast fermentation and mud cellar aroma enhancement of the "strong-flavor" craft essence. Integration, and finally carried out "standardized" and "large-scale" production under the conditions at that time. After more than ten years, Baiyunbian applied to the Provincial Bureau of Standards in 1988, and the local mark was approved. Of course, the wine tasting competition has also classified dual-flavor flavors as one flavor type for competition, but no national or industry implementation standards have been formed. It was not until 1990 that the thick sauce and flavor type gained widespread support in the industry and preparations for the formulation of industry standards were carried out. Of course, Baiyunbian and Hubei local authorities took the lead. Heilongjiang Yuquan Winery and Hunan Changsha Winery responded vigorously and collaborated with some industry experts to come up with a draft proposal. At that time, Baiyunbian Liquor (thickness in sauce) and Yuquan Liquor (thickness in sauce) represented the two major craft schools at that time. I couldn't study the craftsmanship at that time, and I only know the general process of the current craftsmanship. To summarize, it is actually very simple:

uses sorghum as raw material, multiple feedings, 6 rounds of stacking, steaming, burning and mixed steaming. Combined, 9 rounds of operations, 7 wine extractions, and mud cellar fermentation.

As for accumulation, although it is called high-temperature accumulation (higher is not better), it is actually controlled within the corresponding temperature, or the temperature is controlled logically in stages according to needs. This statement also applies to the stage of making koji, especially the increase in the fullness and long aftertaste of the wine brought about by high-temperature koji making (under a single variable), and the impact of high-temperature koji making (under a single variable) on the final liquor yield. , because alcohol as a solvent is an effective carrier that ultimately brings out the flavor substances produced at each stage of the entire production process. If the wine is reduced, these things are likely to remain in the lees. However, I went to a certain sauce winery in Hunan during the epidemic, and the lees were really fragrant when they were finally processed. It felt more fragrant than their wine. I was young and ignorant at the time, but the fragrance was really fragrant. It can be seen that it is really difficult to taste these flavor substances from beginning to end. I wonder if the current winery and the morality of the holding company behind it will engage in some alcohol-based activities.

Let’s talk too far, let’s talk about the high temperature koji making just now, which will also make the wine bitter and hazy.

Then, I would like to emphasize again that the wine produced by the process here is mainly semi-finished wine, which still needs to be blended (blended) to become the final product, which can finally be regarded as a product with the complete flavor of the current market products.

Finally, let’s talk about the brewing process of Baiyunbian’s thick sauce and flavored wine. It has nine rounds of operation. The first six rounds are based on the brewing process of Maotai-flavor liquor, while the last three rounds deliberately streamline the brewing process of Luzhou-flavor liquor, using both medium-temperature koji and high-temperature koji (I don’t know if this counts as what I said before) medley). Although this set of operations is divided into two stages, it is a complete system and is quite satisfactory.

"Yuquan Liquor", which is different from this set of operations and has a similar style, uses high-quality sorghum as raw materials, wheat koji as a saccharification starter, and mixed steaming and fermentation for 60 days. The production process is a two-step process, that is, the fermentation of sauce-flavored and strong-flavored wine is used to produce wine. The semi-finished wine is set to a standard, and is stored and blended (according to proportion). The process of blending into a double-flavor liquor is very different from the traditional process of sauce and thickening. There should be nine specific methods: six rounds of fermentation of Daqu sauce flavor, increasing the amount of Daqu in advance, using cement cellar and mud cellar together to increase the amount of Daqu. According to the proportion of nitrogen in the raw materials, artificial methods are used to improve the quality of high-temperature koji, reduce the ethyl lactate content, increase the ethyl hexanoate content, and relatively reduce the alcohol content of the pickled wine, using the sauce-flavored fermented grains skewer steaming process.

Baiyunbian doesn’t care much about online marketing now. It seems that the major online shipping companies are self-operated by JD.com and Suning, and the flagship stores of the three major e-commerce companies are just superficial. However, 618 is still mainly focused on JD.com.

Medicinal flavor type (Dong fragrance)

Dong wine uses wheat and rice as the main raw materials, a variety of traditional Chinese medicinal materials to make koji, uses high-quality sorghum as the main brewing raw material, uses the solid-state fermentation process of Xiaoqu wine to make the fermented grains, and is obtained by long-term fermentation of Daqu. The wine is obtained by steaming the fragrant fermented grains, which is then stored and blended. Xiaoqu Xiaojiao prepares fermented grains for wine at the bottom, while Daqu Dajiao prepares fermented grains for fermented grains at the top, which is referred to as "two small and two large". Among them, Xiaoqu produces wine that is soft, soft, mellow and sweet; Daqu Dajiao produces fragrant fermented grains, which have a long fermentation period and are the main source of the flavor substances of Dong Liquor. It is normal for the two to have advantages over each other. Only when each can draw on their own strengths can they be truly excellent.

Dong Jiu was only recognized by local executive standards in 2008. However, before that, Dong Jiu's so-called "baicao koji making" was also reduced again and again. At present, Dongjiu, together with Yunnan Baiyao and Fujian Pien Tze Huang, is a national brand production process listed as a national secret formula. Dongjiu also took advantage of the trend and launched a product called "Dongjiu Guomi", which later developed into the Guomi series. First, in 1983, the craftsmanship and formula of Dongjiu liquor were listed as "state secrets"; in 1994, the craftsmanship and formula of Dongjiu liquor were reaffirmed as "state secrets"; in 2006, the craftsmanship and formula of Dongjiu liquor were reaffirmed as permanent "state secrets".

The earliest Dongjiu wine has more than 140 medicinal materials. Because China wants to join some world organizations, materials such as tiger bones, leopard bones, and pangolins are not allowed to be used. Now there are only more than 130 medicinal herbs. Of course, there is also a version with fewer medicinal ingredients, presumably to control costs.

In fact, the grain raw materials used in Dongjiu brewing include sorghum, rice and wheat. On the basis of traditional koji making, a considerable number of Chinese herbal medicines are added, and it is made by using traditional solid-state fermentation of large and small koji, aroma distillation, long-term aging and blending. Slightly comfortable medicinal scent.

Chuanxiang distillation process can be chosen according to different wine quality requirements: one is the re-steaming Chuanxiang method (put the roasted wine into the bottom of the pot, and steam it with fermented grains); the other is steaming with double fermented grains on skewers. Law (need The fermented fermented grains should be placed in the lower part of the retort, and the fragrant fermented grains should be covered on top for distillation); the third is the double-layer steaming method (using two layers of retort handles, the lower layer is placed with solid-state fermented fermented grains, and the upper layer is enlarged with solid fermented grains for a long time) Fermented fermented fermented grains and steamed wine).

To expand, the use of saccharification starter for Daqu and Xiaoqu requires the addition of Chinese medicinal materials when making the koji. Usually, 95 Chinese herbal medicines are added to make Xiaoqu, and 40 Chinese herbal medicines are added to make Daqu. These Chinese herbal medicines will bring rich and special aroma and flavor substances to the wine body during the fermentation and distillation process. The fermentation period of Daqu fermented grains is long, while the fermentation period of Xiaoqu fermented grains is short, and the wine production and aroma production can be richly and effectively integrated.

The large pit is large in size, and the fermentation pit mud is alkaline, so the pit wall is suitable for the growth of alkaline microorganisms; the aromatic grains in the pit are acidic, suitable for the growth of acidic microorganisms; and because the large pit requires a one-year fermentation period , making the fermented grains contain a wide variety and quantity of aromatic components. This steaming process not only saves grain but also improves the quality of the wine.

Dongjiu, I like to drink it, but many people don’t like it. It is a very niche wine and is not recommended. Although the price has taken off in recent years, it has not affected me yet, but it does make people dislike it. Consumers definitely like high quality and low price. What fans like me may hope is to build the brand and then consider price increases to match the brand image, rather than raising prices to promote image building.There are also many people who hope to improve the quality before raising the price. The current operation is to find a group of Yanghe marketing experts and create a series with the letter D + the number 369 to replace the original national secret classification, which is really low. There are also Herborist white and black. The styling is indeed high-end, and the quality is worthy of recognition. However, at present, Xuanguang relies on the Yanghe people's routine, and it is really hard to say whether it is.

In fact, there is still a huge market stock for Guomi and Tmi, and I also have a lot of stocks. Anyway, I am not in a hurry. We will see whether this wave will harvest the wallets of new fans or cut off the faith of old fans. The quality degradation year by year has become unpopular. Before Dong Jiuhou raised the price in 2019, JD.com was mainly shipping. What’s very interesting is that JD.com actually sells the national secrets of the past few years. Dongjiu also has many products customized by dealers, such as Guoxiang, Chunxiang, Hexiang, etc., which are not recommended. Just buy the National Secret Series.

Special flavor liquor

At present, the national implementation standard for special flavor liquor is: GB/T 20823-2017, which replaces GB/T 20823-2007. The technological concepts and raw material requirements of contemporary Site wine are based on tradition and strive for excellence. After combined with mechanized production, the quality stability has been improved, reducing the constraints of manpower on productivity. From the point of view of making koji:

raw materials, water → mixing → blanking and boxing → molding of the koji → transporting the koji → placing the koji into the room → turning the koji (2 times) → Ji Fang (getting together) → Leave the house → Storage → Finished Qu

In the fermentation stage, the special liquor uses rice as the raw material for brewing, and the medium-high temperature Daqu made from flour, bran and distiller's grains is the saccharification fermentation agent, " The production process of "Four Steamers", continued hawthorn fermentation, red Chutiao stone cellar as fermentation container, mixed steaming and mixing, the fermentation period is about 30 days. Rice, the raw material for making special liquor, is mixed and steamed directly with fermented grains without crushing, so that the wine has the aroma of rice. The addition of grains into the raw material for making koji increases the nutritional content of microorganisms. The main ester aroma component is ethyl lactate, followed by ethyl acetate and ethyl hexanoate. The total amount of odd-numbered fatty acid ethyl esters ranks highest in liquor. The main aroma is light and strong aroma, and there is a burnt aroma when you smell it carefully.

The sensory evaluation of a typical special-flavor liquor is: colorless and transparent, fragrant, soft and pure, with harmonious and long flavors.

Originally, there was an article dedicated to writing four special articles. It has not been completed since October 2019. Guoyun has already drank two bottles, and it is almost finished in 2015. I will write down some general feelings for your reference. Site Winery is located in Zhangshu, Jiangxi Province. Its testable history proves that this regional wine has been passed down for more than a thousand years. The Poyang Lake Plain has been a prosperous place since ancient times. Site Winery is located next to the Ganjiang River on the southern edge of the plain. The entire city is surrounded by mountains and rivers, and has high-quality raw materials needed for the production of excellent wines. The serious " "Hometown of Rice and Fat" and "City with Beautiful Landscapes". However, since the 21st century, or even the last century, this series has not achieved outstanding results across the country, and the local market is still affected by Yanghe, and it was also affected by Jiuguijiu before. However, there were still many achievements in the research of Site Wine in the early days, especially in the process of applying for the fragrant aroma of Jiugui Jiu. Many papers and studies cited Site Wine-related articles.

After more than a year of analysis and research on the aroma components of Site Liquor, the former Food Fermentation Industry Research Institute of the Ministry of Light Industry confirmed that the content and volume ratio of the aroma components of Site Liquor are significantly different from other types of liquor. It has the characteristics of independent fragrance type. In March 1997, after review and recommendation by the National Light Industry Federation, and approval by the National Standardization Committee, Site Liquor Flavor (Special Flavor) became one of the "other flavors" among the five major flavors of liquor in the country.

is famous for its unique flavor and was defined as a "special flavor" by an expert group led by Mr. Zhou Henggang, the master of Chinese liquor.

Speaking of which, my ancestral home is still in Jiangxi. There are a lot of four specialties that I choose to drink, including the lowest-grade glass bottles; there are also three-, four- and five-star Jinci that Suning often bought at discounted prices in the past. It is currently a new five-star, and has been revised. Now I have tried drinking 52 degrees, 42 and 45 degrees (meaning I have not finished drinking it), and I have tasted the previous 54 degrees (the bottle background color is similar to the Red Star Erguotou treasure, but the pattern is different).The comparison of admiration for the old version does not mean that I favor the past over the present, but it is indeed better. At present, Jiangxi is probably drinking more medium to low alcohol drinks. There are also four special Oriental Yun series. Hong Yun drinks less and buys more, Ya Yun drinks more (there is no chance to buy more), and Guo Yun saves more. The year series are all picked up in 2017.

Jinci has had a lot of activity in 2018, and a single account and a single bottle in the same city can achieve very good prices.

In fact, more and more wineries are making concessions and compromises to the market in terms of taste and style. This is true for long-established and famous wines such as Xifeng wine and Dongjiu wine, and the same is true for Site wine. The traditional Feng-flavor type and Dong-flavor type actually represent different situations, but in the end they both made compromises in style. Although Xifeng Liquor was once known as the third best wine with numerous fans, in the face of the huge audience of strong-flavor wine, it also made the choice to combine the strong-flavor style among its main products. Coupled with the development of the times and the changes in the audience's taste, especially the popularity of soft taste, the overall style of the Jinci series now focuses on strong fragrance. What may make you think it is the fourth special is the grain fragrance, which is very clear. But if you drink Sanxing Jinci, you will feel that the fragrance is strong and not concentrated, and it will dissipate quickly.

Feng-flavor liquor

In October 1987 and July 1988, at the Xifeng Liquor Aroma Shaping Demonstration Meeting held by the China Liquor Professional Association in Xi'an and Beijing, the experts attending the meeting unanimously believed that Xifeng Liquor has important technical requirements in brewing technology, storage containers, and flavor characteristics. , the composition of trace ingredients and other aspects do have their own uniqueness, and the conditions for establishing the "phoenix type" are basically mature. The establishment of "Phoenix Type" has a solid foundation and scientific basis. However, after more than 7 years of hard work and 5 years of waiting, the Fengxiang type was officially established, and the national standard of GB/T 14867-1994 was released in 1994. Currently, the national standard is GB/T 14867-2007 released on January 7, 2007. Not to mention the drafting unit and drafter, Xifeng Wine has the absolute right to speak in this regard.

I have to say that 2007 is a very important year for the liquor industry, marking the year when theoretical and practical work in the liquor industry has accumulated results since the new century.

Speaking of it, the failure of the third Xifeng Wine that year was indeed not without cause and effect. From the current point of view, the traditional Feng-flavor type represented by Xifeng Wine at that time combined the characteristics of strong-flavor and light-flavor types. When registering, the available tracks can be (strong, light, other), but the result is to choose the light-flavor type. According to the standards of light-flavor wine (pure fragrance, coordinated flavors, mellow and soft taste, refreshing aftertaste), it is obviously not available. Get recognized. If I had chosen something else at that time, there might have been different results, but history has no ifs.

Feng-flavor liquor uses sorghum as the raw material for brewing. The saccharification starter is medium- and high-temperature Daqu cultivated from barley, wheat, and peas. It is fermented in a mud cellar. In order to control the excessive ethyl hexanoate content in the liquor, it is held once a year. The fermentation period is short, usually about 12 to 14 days, using the old five steamers with new mud, mixed steaming and mixing. The Feng-flavor liquor is different from other flavor liquors in that it is stored in the sea of ​​wine. The aroma component is mainly ethyl acetate, supplemented by ethyl hexanoate and an appropriate amount of β-phenylethyl alcohol. The ratio of ethyl acetate to ethyl hexanoate is about 4:1. Hydroxylamine propionate and hydroxylamine acetate are the characteristic aroma components of Fengxiang liquor, and these two components are dissolved products from the sea of ​​liquor.

From the fermentation container point of view, Fengxiang type needs to use wine sea fermentation and soil dark cellar fermentation. The cellar is renewed once a year. The cellar walls and bottom of the cellar are removed and the old cellar skin is replaced with new soil, which is different from Fen Liquor. As for other wines with light aroma, they are all fermented in underground vats and packed in separate vats. This is different from Huzhou Tequ, which uses laojiao mud or artificial laojiao for fermentation. The older the cellar, the better.

Jiuhai, as a unique storage container that appears in the brewing process of Xifeng wine, has a history of nearly a thousand years. The ancients used wattle or wood to weave a large basket, and used blood, lime, etc. as adhesives on the inner wall, pasted hundreds of layers of hemp paper and white cotton cloth, and then rubbed it with egg white, beeswax, cooked rapeseed oil, etc. in a certain proportion. , dried. The special blood material technology allows the wine sea to "hold the wine without leaking, and the water that it contains evaporates completely."

At present, the only benchmark product of Xifeng that has really gained popularity is the Xifeng Green Bottle (Green Neck). As for other series (Jiuhai Series, Fengxiang Classic, Flag Series, Aged Wine Series, Colorful Series).

In fact, many people think that this wine is no different from the strong-flavor Xifeng wine, but there are indeed many good wines among them, and it all depends on personal taste. In addition to Xifeng wine, there are many Feng-flavor wines, such as Qinchuan wine, Taibai wine, etc., which will be listed in detail later.

3. Further improvement of liquor flavor types in 2007

Many flavors were recognized this year, and standards were further established and promoted. At the same time, it also gives consumers more opportunities to understand. Of course, this understanding requires a lot of time and energy.

Soy flavored liquor

Currently, the national executive standard for soy flavored liquor is: GB/T 16289-2018, which replaces GB/T 16289-2007.

Soybean-flavor liquor uses rice as the raw material for brewing. After the rice is cooked and cooled, an appropriate amount of water and Daqu cake (Daqu cake is a common name, actually belongs to the type of Xiaoqu) are added, and the liquid fermentation is carried out at about 30°C for about 20 days in a distillation kettle. Distill the vegetarian wine, then transfer it to an aging wine tank where the wine and meat are soaked all year round, then add a certain amount of processed fat pork and soak it for about 30 days, and then store the meat for more than two months. The most typical process of soy-flavor liquor is to soak pork fat in rice wine, so that the liquor contains high-boiling dibasic acid esters, such as diethyl pimelate and diethyl azelate, which are common in other flavor liquors. The ingredients it does not contain are unique to medicinal-flavor liquor. In addition, the content of β-phenylethyl alcohol in medicinal-flavor liquor is the highest among all liquors. Yujiebingqing, alcohol and sweetness, and a refreshing aftertaste are the sensory descriptions of soy-flavor liquor.

Representative products of soybean flavor: Guangdong Shiwan Yubing shochu, Guangdong Jiujiang double-distilled wine.

This wine generally does not have a high alcohol content, and has obvious characteristics, mainly the obvious "clam flavor". But I had never thought that a wine of this alcohol content could have a significantly longer aftertaste. What I also didn’t expect was that my friend said that this wine originated from the Pearl River Delta in Guangdong and has a large export volume. Of course, this wine is still good. The winery also had very good research technology in the early years and participated in a lot of analysis of aroma substances in the wine. I remember working with Fenjiu. What impresses me most is the koji-making process of this wine. In addition to traditional materials, peas are also used in the regular operation of Fenjiu. A larger amount of soybeans are put into it, which must be an important factor in forming the flavor.

The soy-flavored liquor I just mentioned has a low alcohol content but a rich flavor, which is probably due to the characteristics of the craftsmanship. After fermentation and distillation, the meat is soaked. It will naturally taste sweet, smooth and greasy when you drink it. It may be due to the soaking operation of the meat, and some fatty acids, glycerin and other substances are incorporated into it. However, there should also be a good impurity filtering operation, otherwise the taste will become very messy.

Sesame flavor

At present, the national executive standard for sesame flavor liquor is: GB/T 20824-2007.

The process mainly uses sorghum as the raw material for brewing, adding an appropriate amount of bran, mixing high-temperature koji, medium-temperature koji, and strengthened bacterial koji, mixed steaming and mixing, high-temperature accumulation, and brick tanks as containers for high-temperature fermentation, slow steam distillation, and quality control. The wine is picked, classified into warehouses, stored for a long time, and blended carefully.

Its main representatives are: Shandong Jingzhi Baigan, Jiangsu/Meilanchun

Sensory comments: clear and transparent (slightly yellow and transparent), prominent sesame aroma, elegant and mellow, sweet and harmonious, clean tail, with sesame aroma style.

The contents of pyrazine compounds, furan compounds, β-phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and ethyl propionate in sesame-flavor liquor are lower than those in Maotai-flavor liquor, but higher than those in strong-flavor liquor. The components responsible for the aroma of sesame are not yet clear, but 3-methylthiopropanol and dimethyltrisulfide are identified as the characteristic aroma components of sesame-flavored liquor.

This wine has a prominent burnt aroma after entering the mouth. It has an aroma similar to roasted sesame when you taste it carefully, so it is named sesame-flavored liquor.

Sesame flavor, in fact, this term has been around for a long time. At that time, it was only introduced as a special feature. Then, in 1964, after the national pilot study on famous wines, quite a few theories were established.At that time, liquor experts in Shandong Province began to submit relevant research results, but the formal research filings were only after the third wine evaluation meeting. It was not until 1995 that the corresponding liquor industry standards were formed.

Laobai dry-flavor liquor

At present, the national executive standard for Laobai dry-flavor liquor is: GB/T 20825-200. Lao Baigan is now also starting to play the "Panama Grand Prize" meme, which is the remaining meme of Maotai's porcelain Fenjiu.

The sensory evaluation of Hengshui Laobaigan Liquor is: the wine is clear and transparent in color, mellow and elegant, sweet and upright, plump and smooth, and has a long aftertaste.

This wine is carefully brewed using high-quality sorghum as the raw material, pure wheat koji as the saccharification starter, and traditional "Laowu steamer" and "Liangpaiqing" techniques, as well as ground vat fermentation. From this point of view, the operation is very similar to Fenjiu. Let me tell you an unexamined story: Fenjiu provided technical support back then.

Fragrance type

national standard refers to a standard approved and released by the national standardization authority, which is of great significance to the national economic and technological development and is unified nationwide. The advancement of the formulation of national standards for Fragrance and the drafting of content are of great significance to the further development of "Fragrant" liquor. From the standard of an enterprise to the national standard, it can be called the peak. As the pioneer of this flavor, Jiugui Liquor Company has been climbing for nearly 20 years.

In the early 1990s, the product aroma of Xiangquan Liquor and Jiugui Liquor was called the "Sixth Flavor" in the industry; in March 1992, Jiugui Liquor Company established a Liquor Industry Research Institute to conduct research on Xiangquan Liquor and Jiugui Liquor. The fragrance application was listed as a Hunan provincial scientific research project; in April 1994, " "Xiangquan Wine Aroma Symposium" was held, and the aroma characteristics such as "strong aroma and honey aroma, rich fragrance, mellow and refreshing, and pleasant aftertaste" were summarized. At the meeting, the names of the aroma types of Jiugui Liquor and Xiangquan Liquor were discussed for the first time. After discussion, the initial idea was to be a "composite type" or "combination type"; in October 1994, Zhou Henggang, Shen Yifang, Jin Peizhang, and Jin Fenglan Experts came to the company again to provide training for more than 20 production technicians to improve basic wine rating and wine body design levels, laying a solid foundation for stable product style; in 1998, Xiangquan Wine Changsha Wine Research Institute was established , began to promote technology and fragrance research with topics; in August 2005, Hunan Provincial Science and Technology The department hosted an appraisal meeting on the results of the "Research on the Fragrant Aroma Type of Jiugui Liquor" in Jishou. After checking by the Hunan Provincial Institute of Science and Technology Information, the fragrant aroma type liquor became an innovative aroma type in my country; in July 2007, the quality of the fragrant aroma type Jiugui Liquor was The seminar was held, and the typical style of the fragrant-flavor liquor of "strong in the front, clear in the middle, and sauce in the back" was determined.

Fragrant aroma liquor is represented by Hunan Jiugui Liquor and Xiangquan Liquor. Its sensory evaluation is: colorless and transparent, elegant aroma, soft and sweet, mellow and delicate, pleasant aftertaste, fragrant fragrance, clean body.

To put it bluntly, the only time Jiuguijiu dominated the liquor industry was to lead and promote the advancement and improvement of liquor food safety technology. Jiugui Liquor combines the advantages of the three flavors of Qingnongjiang, and indeed has considerable merits in taste and aroma. In particular:

has a unique sensory style of elegant aroma, soft and sweet taste, mellow and delicate, pleasant aftertaste, rich fragrance and clean body.

combined the cultural promotion of Jiugui Liquor at the beginning of the century. In the last century, Xiangquan Liquor also had a considerable audience accumulation and considerable sales volume. With the help of Mr. Huang Yongyu, Jiugui Liquor began to take off, teaching Chinese liquor a lesson in creating a brand atmosphere. After several years of accumulation, Jiuguijiu achieved too many breakthroughs before 2008, including Mr. Huang Yongyun’s cultural bonus, the Olympic Games, Wu Xiaoping internal reference, and geographical indication product protection qualifications. However, the continuous breakthroughs have only allowed Jiugui Liquor to remain a hot spot, with good reviews but no success, leaving only the memory that the price exceeded Maotai and Wuliangye. And three years later, the situation was declining, and it also changed from a local brand to a subsidiary of COFCO . In addition to the plasticizer controversy, it was also deeply involved in the cyclamate vortex last year. It is really difficult to know whether it was because of the accumulated accumulation of trouble or whether it was beaten down by the "plasticizer". But for a local, I have a love-hate relationship with this brand.A local wine should be the glory and reputation of a region. When you mention its past glory, your friend across the table will inevitably say something plasticky, intentionally or unintentionally, to bring you back to reality. Just like after being transformed into a dog, looking back at the time when I was in the quagmire, it made me what I am now, and it is difficult to face the difficulties at that time.

SaDouDaodi

Fragrant and aromatic wines usually use Rhizopus koji to saccharify the grains separately, and then mix the saccharified grains with the grains to enlarge the koji and put it into the mud pond for continued fermentation. The unique process of using the koji is also This is the origin of its three-in-one characteristics. Subsequently, Wuliang was used for saccharification, forming a foundation for rich material types and deep quality. Among them, it also needs to be soaked in high temperature for up to one day to fully moisturize it before it can be put into use. At the same time, the use of Rhizopus koji has formed a node in Jiugui Liquor. Before 1994, it was a more traditional material with a medicinal aroma. Today's products also deliberately dilute this smell, fearing that others will not be used to it. In addition, there are many applications of technology, such as Daqu continued mud tank fermentation technology, steaming and burning technology, and double-wheel bottom fermentation technology, etc., which will be improved later.

Postscript

I often feel that I still have a lot to learn about wine. What I can share now is my many pitfalls in the past. I don’t like to criticize wine either. Scientific and rigorous wine evaluation can sometimes become boring. Regarding wine, I think more about the people we drink together, the stories before and after drinking, and those days when we brag together. There is wine, meat and stories. The previous part is just the introduction, the story is the focus.

Judging from the popularity of the liquor industry in the past two years, there will be more and more employees, and many niche wines will be discovered in the market. Business behavior is inherently profit-oriented, and the louder the profit, the louder the voice. I hope everyone will drink according to their own objective needs, care about the people around them, and also care about their own health and that of their families. Hobbies are only part of it, life is the most important thing.

The next article is the story here