The epidemic has subverted people's lifestyles. Things and opinions that we were accustomed to before the epidemic have undergone earth-shaking changes. This change is a process of "deconstruction" of ideas, which has spawned the popularity of the new season of " deconstructionism " style.
2023 Spring and Summer Fashion Week, various brand shows are attracting the attention of the whole world. On September 18, local time, in London, England, the Nensi Dojaka brand show, deconstructionism interprets sexy - breaking the deconstructionist fashion stereotype , echoing the core of deconstructionist fashion "free expression".
What does beauty mean today? What is the relationship between beauty and fashion and body? How does fashion standards influence how people think of clothing? The idea of being beautiful and charming on the outside has long determined people's traditional understanding of fashion, or, more broadly, understanding of beauty. But in the post-liberal era, people's pursuit of "fashion" has reached a new level. Some fashion designers are proposing their new understanding of the relationship between fashionable clothing and the human body. They dare to use a provocative method to question "fashion standards", be indomitable, neither humble nor arrogant.
Explore the fashion of deconstructionism - it is a rebellion originating from philosophy!
"Deconstructionism" originally belonged to the field of philosophy, and French philosopher Jacques Derrida proposed this concept in the 1960s. "Deconstruction" means the process in which the established form is broken. As far as fashion goes, it means something considered standard by breaking the rules, challenging and refuting. Although “deconstruction” originated in the world of pure philosophy, the idea of “deconstruction” was quickly applied to other areas of cultural practice, including architecture, music and fashion.
After the outbreak of the global COVID-19 outbreak, the epidemic has had a huge impact on people's lives. Before the epidemic, our original views on things and life changed after the epidemic, and this change is actually a process of "deconstruction" of concepts. If we are driven by the epidemic and deconstructing "passively", then deconstructors like Derrida are actively pursuing what they want.
At first, who brought "deconstructionism" into the fashion industry?
Yamamoto Yoji, Kawakubo Rei, and Martin Margiela are three pioneers of deconstructive fashion.
In the 1980s, when the fashion industry was swallowed up by fitted clothes, glamorous charm and gorgeous supermodels, Yoshiji Yamamoto and Kubo Kawashima caused a shock in the industry with their avant-garde deconstructed fashion. They deliberately showcased black and grey clothing made of worn and worn textiles on the runway at the Paris show, wrapping the model's body with worn scissor-like hem, layered fabric, and obvious cracks and tear, challenging the aesthetic concept of the traditional Western world. Yoji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo's revolutionized fashion, paving the way for Vivienne Westwood and Martin Margiela, who searched for inspiration from this twisted punk look. Majira took over the baton from Yamamoto and Kawakubo, continuing to promote the fashion revolution and gained a reputation in the fashion industry through experimental proportions, seams, hems and sewing.
1989, fashion photographer Bill Cunningham took the lead in applying the term "deconstruction" to fashion phenomena. He describes a special way of constructing fashionable clothing by displacing and disrupting its components. In 1993, Amy Spindler continued his discussion of fashion deconstruction in " New York Times " by explaining the origins and specific features of the new fashion movement.
The road to "rebellion" is slightly bitter - a fierce collision with politics and culture!
New things will inevitably not be smooth sailing at the beginning of their growth, and deconstructive fashion is no exception.Initially, this new radical aesthetic divided Western fashion media, and the Washington Post said that this new fashion trend is "very similar to the homeless shopping bag girls sleeping in hot air wells and park benches in winter." This inevitably reminds people of the "Cialis Brother" who was popular on the Internet more than ten years ago in China. His decadent image is impressive.
Deconstructive fashion led to demonstrations outside the Bloomingdale Department Store in New York, where activists present called the outfits "high-priced outfits that mocked the poor." Although politics is largely the core of Yamamoto Yoshiji and Kawakubo's designs, mocking the poor is not the designer's intention. These bold designers use their own fashion language (clothing) to freely discuss the standards of beauty, classism and war, and other topics about society and humanity themselves.
WWIIIn the mid-1970s, under the economic recession and special social and political background, young people were not satisfied with the mainstream rule in power, and spontaneously carried out anti-mainstream resistance, and anti-mainstream consciousness began to emerge. The "anti-fashion" movement was born in this special era. By challenging modern clothing, young people use their clothes to vent their dissatisfaction with mainstream society. Deconstructive fashion is the product of the "anti-fashion" movement. Fashion is a reflection of the culture of the times. The reason why deconstructive fashion can set off a craze is precisely because of the fierce and complex political environment, which allows designers to use fashion language as a weapon to bravely defend the right to self-expression.
In contrast, today's political climate is actually not much different from that of the 1980s, especially the new crown epidemic, which has further exacerbated the uncertainty of the global political environment. So "anti-fashion" designers like Demna Gvasalia have reappeared, with their designs having a strong social and political agenda. Especially Belgian designer Martin Margiela, who boldly questioned the traditional understanding of fashion beauty and rethinked the relationship between fashion forms, functions and ideology constructed by clothing.
"Anti-fashion" trend is a counter-culture inspired by the taboo practices of street culture, punk movements and traditional culture. Designers resist tradition by destroying the original functions of clothing. In addition, structuralist fashion also reflects the cultural, environmental and aesthetic confrontation in society. Fashion reproduces historical changes through deconstructing clothing, and is a cultural reflection of social, economic and political changes.
The idea behind deconstructing fashion makes it more than just a ruined piece of clothing. It represents anti-traditional, anti-authority, and anti-status status quo, and is a "wearable art" that can describe one's actual value.
Deconstructing fashion skills? "Irregular" is my style!
Deconstructing fashion popularity is related to people’s typical stereotypes of fashion clothing. Deconstructive fashion encompasses a vision of asymmetry, elemental composition, style blending and sophisticated detail. The typical characteristics of deconstructive fashion are mainly: "details such as exposed seams, burrs or asymmetry", "deliberately unfinished clothing", and "neutral or anonymous clothing".
By putting forward the idea of disorderly combination and deconstructing clothing, deconstructive fashion designers have further developed a new understanding of fashion beauty. This anti-fashion concept highlights the value of the fashion phenomenon itself—the expectation of not meeting fashion standards and fashion attitudes.
Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela is a pioneering representative who "stands out" in the field of deconstructive fashion after Yoko Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. With his fashion brand Maison Margiela, he advocates a new understanding of beauty and fashion standards, abandons common fashion standards and attitudes to create new meanings of clothing. Margiela reveals the principles of interaction between clothing and the fashionable body. Margiela’s fashion does not require a perfect figure or sexy body, he advocates the body’s confidence in one’s own body and provides freedom to get rid of stereotypes.
Maison Margiela’s brand was born in the mid-1980s, in stark contrast to the heyday when fashion clothing was designed to emphasize as much sexual desire as possible on the female sexual body and the super feminine temperament. The emphasis on the ‘genderization’ of fashion clothing not only reinforces the sexual connotation and gender fashion stereotypes in clothing, but also restricts the creative thinking of clothing stylists. Maison Margiela At this time, she went against the tradition and showed the structuralist fashion series with burrs, exposed linings, sloppy, imperfect, and unfinished clothes on the show.
deconstructive fashion advocates that clothes can not only accompany people, but also express specific ideas. Even when dressing for the body, fashion clothing is an independent object. By deconstructing the body worn, Margiela Constituting a new standard of beauty. In this way, designers rethink the function and significance of fashion clothing and question the origin of beauty standards in traditional fashion. Unlike other deconstructive fashion designers, Margiela continues to question the understanding of fashion beauty and fashionable bodies in Western culture. There are many unformed outlines, intentionally incorrect body proportions and gender-free dresses in his work. Moreover, by creating multi-layer clothing and oversized objects to hide the real body proportions and get rid of the stereotypes of model body shape, Margiela Developed an understanding of neutral and anonymous fashion, enriching the connotation of deconstructive fashion.
In addition to the outstanding Western deconstructive fashion masters, Chinese new designer Wang Fengchen also interprets the deconstructive fashion in her heart in her own way.
Wang Fengchen, who graduated from Beijing Clothing Academy , is the first Chinese men's clothing designer recruited by the Royal Academy of Arts (RCA) in the past century. Perhaps the popular fans of Converse shoes will be more familiar with her. There are many strange-shaped shoes she designed. The straightforward deconstructive design concept is integrated into shoes, which has refreshed the deconstructive fashion.
Wang Fengchen has rich and unique insights into men's clothing. Like Margiela, she refuses to be defined by tradition. Modern and avant-garde style shows men's clothing that is rich in functional significance and details. Wang Fengchen uses the deconstructive form she is good at making the clothing unique. Today, she has grown into a new force that cannot be ignored in today's fashion circle, and her works are also praised by "Vogue" as "the most profound and exciting work." "
is unique and yet high-end. What is the representative item of deconstructive fashion?
sock boots that look like hoof-shaped sock boots are Maison Margiela's most important and well-known fashion items, and are also a typical symbol of Margiela's deconstruction concept.
sock boots were originally traditional Japanese fashion elements, and after being displayed on a personal show by Martin Margiela in 1988, it attracted great attention from fashion followers. The split-toe sock boots were "recreated" by Margiela on the basis of traditional Japanese shoes, and now they have more than 30 Years of history.
Japanese culture and fashion inspired the Belgian designer, using sock boots as a main fashion item in many of his collections. With his very unusual performance at fashion shows, he emphasized the importance of the shoes to his creative art. Through a rethinking of traditional Japanese clothing, Margiela brought sock boots into T Taiwan has reshape the public's understanding of women's shoes. Wearing sock boots has become a fashion and eye-catching way, especially in the circle of fashion enthusiasts. In addition, sock boots have become an indispensable existence in the Margiela clothing series, and a new fashion interpretation can be obtained every time. This is like a "flowing deconstruction" of it, and then a "marvelous rebirth".
Margiela's deconstructive fashion style was once called "ugly fashion" because of its destructive and impactful nature. But if it is generally recognized, it is not fashion. Fashion is an attitude, which ultimately belongs to self-expression, giving every fashion suitor the space to pursue freely.Margiela broke the stereotype of fashion clothing that only has attractive and accurate, established a new sense of beauty, and constructed her own fashion concept.
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