"Acid brushing" is one of the more popular skin care methods recently. Applying chemicals to the surface layer of the skin can control the damage to the skin and promote metabolism (regeneration of new skin).
In skin care acids, fruit acid, citric acid , lactic acid, lactobionic acid , salicylic acid , retinoic acid , tranexamic acid, hyaluronic acid , tranexamic acid... ...Do you know the difference between them?
First of all, it doesnât mean itâs offensive even if it contains an acid word. Common ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid) and tranexamic acid (tranexamic acid) are not considered acidifying. Hyaluronic acid is a macromolecular polysaccharide that moisturizes, promotes skin healing, and resists wrinkles; while tranexamic acid functions as a well-known whitening .
There are four main types of ingredients that can usually be classified as acid products. They are: fruit acids, salicylic acid , A acids and azelaic acid .
Fruit acid is the general name for organic acids derived from fruits. The principle of fruit acid peeling is actually to use high concentrations of fruit acid ingredients to dissolve the aging stratum corneum of the skin, accelerate cell metabolism, and promote the production of collagen in the dermis. , thus making the skin smoother, hydrated and elastic.
The purpose of acid is to exfoliate, remove acne , light spots , remove wrinkles, etc. It has a peeling effect. It is basically a small molecule weak acid, called a first-generation fruit acid (first-generation hydroxy acid, AHA), which is the most commonly used It is glycolic acid , lactic acid, citric acid, etc., with relatively small molecular weight and strong permeability; second-generation fruit acids (PHAs), macromolecular polyhydroxy acids, represented by gluconolactone; third-generation fruit acids, It is lactobionic acid, maltose acid, etc. that are very popular now. This type of fruit acid has high water retention and water absorption, and can form a gel matrix, which has a protective and soothing effect on inflammatory skin, and relieves the symptoms after using the first generation of fruit acid. Dry and peeling skin.
Lactobionic acid, with eight groups of hydroxyl groups in its structure, inherits all the functions of PHAs, is milder in nature, has stronger moisturizing effect, has the effect of reducing pores, is known as a dermabrasion artifact, and also has powerful antioxidant effects.
The effects of different concentrations of fruit acid
1, low concentration of fruit acid (less than 10%): fruit acid can reduce the cohesion between epidermal keratinocytes, effectively remove aging cuticles, change roughness, dullness, and condition skin texture.
2, medium concentration of fruit acid (10%-30%): the effect of fruit acid can reach the true pi tissue, and has good effect on acne , lightening dark spots and smoothing wrinkles.
3. High-concentration fruit acid (more than 30%): It has strong penetrating power, which can peel off aging cuticles at once, accelerating the effect of removing spots and wrinkles. However, high-concentration fruit acids are skin-removing properties, so it is recommended to seek treatment from a professional doctor.
About freckle removal , if the color of the spots is lighter, that is to say, the pigmentation only occurs in the epidermis, fruit acid has a certain effect; but if the pigment is deposited in the true pi layer, there is nothing you can do.
Salicylic acid, unlike fruit acids, is a fat-soluble acid. It is worth noting that a small number of people are not suitable for using salicylic acid at any concentration, so general beauty salons cannot perform it and it is suitable for medical treatment.
Retinoic acid acts on tyrosine kinase , inhibits the formation of melanin, can act on the dermis layer, and has whitening effects. However, oral administration is teratogenic and allergic, and sunlight will aggravate the effects of retinoic acid on the skin. Stimulation leads to the decomposition of retinoic acid, so it is best used at night before going to bed. Sun exposure should also be avoided during treatment. Please use with caution.
