從卡地亞珠寶展看「新零售「時代下品牌的自我救贖（下）

嗯，熱點是要蹭的。

上篇從《演員的誕生》看「新零售「時代下品牌的自我救贖（上）里提到，零售回歸本質，這個本質就是人情。

人，就是銷售人員，情就是客戶關係。所以今天這篇我們就說客戶關係。

繼倫敦和紐約之後，卡地亞全新RÉSONANCES DE CARTIER高級珠寶系列於1月19日至27日在上海外灘的藝術文化新地標——復星藝術中心，呈獻一場精彩的高級珠寶交響樂。以稀世寶石為音符，以豐沛創意為曲譜，包括RÉSONANCES DE CARTIER系列在內的逾400件高級珠寶臻品在卡地亞的大師指揮棒下，譜寫出流淌着盎然生命之歌的樂章。

奢侈品牌的高級珠寶展絕對是對客戶關係最直接的檢驗，而且這種檢驗近年來越來越頻繁。

以卡地亞為例，這個1992年在上海設立了首家專櫃的法國品牌，經過在中國市場25年的精耕細作，成為在中國最成功（個人認為，沒有之一，就是最成功的）的高級腕錶珠寶品牌，也是厲峰集團當之無愧的」大兒子」搖錢樹，其與客戶「產生關係」的主要途徑除了遍布全國的直營或經銷商（例如百利建）門店外，就是每年1-2次的全球範圍或區域性的頂級珠寶展。

卡地亞最近一次在上海的高級珠寶展正是一年之前（2016年11月）在上海外灘源壹號的Cartier Magicien系列高級珠寶展。在這期間，仍會有在其他國家的珠寶展，比如2017年4月，在新加坡巴黎美術館進行的則是Etourdissant主題的珠寶展。

珠寶展可不是純粹的一個花好月圓共襄盛舉的「展覽」，她是一場campaign——一場草木皆兵財富收割的戰役，她是一場event——一場銷售數字分配到每家店鋪甚至每個sales頭上的selling event。

以筆者在業內的經驗來說，珠寶展對大多說一線銷售人員就是一場災難，除了每家店鋪個別幾個手中有大客戶的資深銷售人員之外，絕大多數銷售人員想在幾天之內銷售掉單價是其平日里店鋪日常銷售幾十倍甚至上百倍的高級珠寶，幾乎就是不可能完成的任務。其實往往在珠寶展之前，展品已經由掌握大客戶資源的銷售人員通過各種方式讓有購買實力的目標客戶提前預覽，真正最終被寫上邀請名單的客戶都是或多或少有了購買意向的，所以與其說是珠寶展，不如說是一場有珠寶、美食、明星、美景為伴的celebration moments.

沒有耕耘，何來收穫。

卡地亞已經是珠寶展的老司機，無論是規格和流程都是最豪華的，駕輕就熟的珠寶盛宴產生一個過億的銷售數字對這樣的品牌來說不是難事，要麼怎麼說她是令競爭對手望其項背的最成功的品牌呢？這有賴於其數十年如一日的品牌滲透、年復一年的客戶培育和千千萬萬個員工的日常累積，80%的銷售是20%的員工創造的這個理論在珠寶展上體現得最淋漓盡致。

盛名之下，居安思危。

當下的中國畢竟不是那個當年她初相識的中國，消費升級下，越來越多的中產階層消費群體湧現，加上更加年輕一代的在互聯網時代成長的年輕消費群體的崛起，「老一代」的奢華品牌在這個「新零售」時代該如何與消費者繼續「保持關係」，贏在未來呢？

理論有很多，觀點也不少，但總繞不過一件事情，那就是——數字化。

以下來自BOF的一篇題為《Digitising The Sales Associate》的文章在這方面作了闡述。

For one New England woman, an avid shopper in Boston and Manhattan, her friendships with sales associates at luxury boutiques and upscale department stores go back as far as 20 years. 「I have relationships with people that are insane,」 she says, remembering one longstanding sales associate from a major department store — known for having the best Chanel at the best prices — who would open for business early on Saturday mornings for her most loyal shoppers.

對於一位在波士頓和曼哈頓購物的新英格蘭女性來說，她與奢侈品專賣店和高檔百貨公司的銷售助理之間的友誼可以追溯到20年前。「我和那些不可思議的人有關係，」她說，想起了一家大型百貨公司的長期銷售助理——以最好的價格擁有最好的香奈兒(Chanel)——她會在周六早上為她最忠實的顧客開門營業。

Some sales associates get her first access to new deliveries and sales. Some hold items until later in the season when discounts deepen, or alert her when something is returned and immediately jumps to a major discount. 「They send you pictures, 15 to 20 at a time, saying 『This is available on sale,』」 she explains. Now her Millennial daughter, living in California, is developing her own personal relationships with sales associates on both coasts of the country. 「They know what I want and what my style is,」 she says. They also help her score designer pieces at discounts.

一些銷售助理或讓她第一時間收到新品通知，一些銷售會將某些產品「雪藏」到有折扣的時候通知她，或者在即將打折之前打折的時候通知她。她解釋說:「他們每次給你發15到20張圖片，說『這是特價出售』。」現在，她的00後的女兒住在加州，她正在與全國各地的銷售夥伴建立自己的私人關係。「他們知道我想要什麼，我的風格是什麼，」她說。

Clienteling, or the art of developing long-term relationships with key customers based on data about their preferences, behaviours and past purchases, is nothing new, as this mother-daughter duo demonstrate. But as the shopping habits of digitally savvy Millennials — and those who have adopted a Millennial mindset — have evolved, so too have sales associates.

正如這位母女二人所展示的那樣，客戶的喜好、行為和過去的購買行為，都是與關鍵客戶建立長期關係的藝術，這並不是什麼新鮮事。但是，隨着數字時代的千禧一代的購物習慣——以及那些採用了千禧一代思維模式的人——的購物習慣已經發生了變化，銷售顧問們也隨之開始改變起來。

Facing a wave of online competition, traditional brick-and-mortar boutiques and department stores are fighting back by digitising the powerful relationships that often exist between seasoned sales associates and their best customers. Of course, sales associates have long used services like text message — and increasingly WhatsApp, Instagram and WeChat — to engage with customers. But now stores are equipping them with specialised training and clienteling software designed to optimise their efforts.

面對一波網絡競爭，傳統的實體店和百貨商店正在通過數字化的方式來反擊，這種關係通常存在於經驗豐富的銷售人員和他們最好的客戶之間。當然，銷售助理們長期以來都在使用短訊——以及越來越多的WhatsApp、Instagram和微信——來與客戶打交道。但現在，商店正在為他們配備專門的培訓和客戶服務軟件，以優化他們的工作。

「Everyone has to think differently now, and the style advisor is the same thing,」 says Saks Fifth Avenue president Marc Metrick, referring to the New York-based luxury department store』s approximately 4,500 sales associates, which it calls 「style advisors.」

薩克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)總裁Marc Metrick說:「現在每個人都有不同的想法，銷售顧問也是一樣。」他指的是紐約奢侈品百貨公司的大約4500名銷售助理，他們稱之為「時尚顧問」。

「I can spend all day long on tech to try to compete with Amazon and I』ll lose,」 he says. 「Or I can spend all my money on marketing and packaging and try to go after Net-a-Porter, and it would be a tough fight. But what I want to do is take my core competency, which is my style advisors and the relationships they build with their core customers, and I want to extend that into the digital space.」 Indeed, Saks now encourages its sales associates to become 「mini-marketers」 across all platforms.

他說:「我可以花一整天的時間在科技上與亞馬遜競爭，但我一定會輸。」「或者我可以把我所有的錢都花在營銷和包裝上，試着追趕Net-a-Porter，這將是一場艱難的戰鬥。」但我想做的是把我的核心競爭力，也就是我的銷售顧問和他們與核心客戶建立的關係，我想把它延伸到數字空間。事實上，Saks現在鼓勵其銷售助理在所有平台上成為「迷你營銷人員」。

At New York luxury fashion and beauty boutique Fivestory, founder Claire Olshan decided to boost her investment in her sales staff two years ago, replacing three sales associates with personnel with higher experience levels (the team now numbers five including the manager). 「You have to interview a lot of people and find the special ones,」 she says. 「We hit our customers now digitally multiple times a day whether that [is through] our mailers or our Instagram,」 says Olshan. 「They then will respond to their sales person with a screenshot or something and say, 『I just saw this』 or 『Can you hold this for me?』 or 『Can you send this to my house?』」

在紐約奢侈品時尚與美容精品公司Fivestory，創始人克萊爾•奧爾山(Claire Olshan)兩年前決定增加對她的銷售人員的投資，將三名銷售助理替換為擁有更高經驗級別的人員(目前該團隊包括經理在內的5人)。她說:「你必須面試很多人，找到特別的人。」Olshan說:「我們的客戶現在每天都要用數字方式溝通好幾次，不管是通過郵件還是Instagram。」「然後他們會用截圖或其他東西回應他們的銷售人員，然後說『我剛看到這個』或者『你能幫我拿這個嗎?』」或者「你能把這個送到我家嗎?」

In 2016, Fivestory also invested in software from NetSuite to track customers and the sales associates』 message conversations in one database. 「We have more information at our fingertips to understand the customer more, whereas before we had to fill in the gaps,」 she says, adding that her associates can now maintain more relationships with more clients as a result.

2016年，Fivestory還投資了NetSuite軟件，跟蹤客戶和銷售助理在一個數據庫中的信息對話。她說:「我們有更多的信息可以讓我們更了解客戶，而在我們必須填補這些空白之前，」她補充說，她的同事現在可以與更多的客戶保持更多的關係。

At Saks, too, a partnership with retail technology platform Salesfloor, launched almost two years ago, has made its style advisors more efficient. The software connects online shoppers on desktop and mobile with style advisors in their area and at their nearest stores. It』s a way to build human relationships with online shoppers, particularly Millennials, who are 「not used to being clientele,」 says Metrick, and aren』t always aware of the benefits of forging relationships with sales associates.

在Saks，兩年前推出的與零售技術平台Salesfloor的合作，使其銷售顧問更加高效。該軟件將桌面和移動的在線購物者與他們所在地區的銷售顧問和最近的商店聯繫起來。這是一種建立人際關係的方式，尤其是千禧一代，他們「不習慣成為客戶」，Metrick說，他們也不知道與銷售夥伴建立關係的好處。

The results are promising: about 10 percent of online shoppers who interact with associates through Salesfloor end up making a purchase, much higher than Saks.com's overall conversion rate of approximately 1.7 percent. (The website gets about 150 million visitors per year.) Average order values are about double the website』s average of just under $500. And for online shoppers who interact with these style advisors through Salesfloor, who can address fit and sizing, the return rate can be half that of Saks』s online purchases. (Metrick declined to share the overall return rate, but it can be as high as 30 to 40 percent for e-commerce.)

結果是令人充滿希望的：:約有10%的在線購物者通過Salesfloor與同事進行互動，這比Saks.com的總轉化率(約1.7%)要高得多。(該網站每年的訪問量約為1.5億人次。)平均訂單價值大約是網站平均價格不到500美元的兩倍。對於那些通過Salesfloor與這些銷售顧問進行互動的在線購物者來說，他們的回復速度可以是Saks在線購物的一半。(Metrick拒絕分享整體回報率，但電子商務可能高達30% - 40%。) 。

Responding to requests from the sales staff, the company also recently launched an internal app called Saks Connect, which allows sales associates to view an item』s availability across store and online inventory and pull together an order for a client from different sources. As a result, the percentage of Saks Fifth Avenue transactions captured on its clientele system, which is a profile of shoppers and their purchase history, rose to approximately 80 percent from 60 percent. 「Eventually that can go into our recommendation engine and help our styling advisors formulate specific recommendations for that client,」 said Metrick.

為了回應銷售人員的要求，該公司最近還推出了一款名為「Saks Connect」的內部應用程序，該應用程序允許銷售人員在商店和在線目錄中查看商品的銷售狀態，並為來自不同來源的客戶提供訂單。因此，Saks Fifth Avenue的交易占其客戶系統的比例從60%上升到80%，這是購物者和他們購買歷史的一個重要特徵。「最終，這可以進入我們的推薦引擎，幫助我們的造型顧問為客戶制定具體的建議，」Metrick說。

「This is about the style advisor being as smart and as capable as they possibly can… I don』t invest in gimmicky technology,」 he adds. 「The people that work in my stores, they are my technology. They are my differentiator.」

這是讓銷售顧問能夠像他們一樣聰明的話題,可能可以…我不投資噱頭技術,」他補充道。「在我店裡工作的人，他們就是我的技術。他們就是令我與競爭對手有所區別的核心競爭力。」

MTR觀點

此時此刻，在外灘那幢充滿韻律之美的新空間里，也許卡地亞的銷售人員正在與下榻在華爾道夫酒店的尊貴客人們觥籌交錯的談論試戴那些價值連城的美麗寶石，但我想品牌在對這一場珠寶展勝券在握的同時，或許也同樣在思考，如何讓珠寶展現場以外的分佈在全國的卡地亞店鋪里數以千計的銷售人員在未來的每一天更好的與更廣大的客戶產生更持久的關係。

這也是「新零售」時代，擺在每個品牌面前的不可迴避的課題。

本文部分英文原文來自於BOF，由MTR及Terry Tian編譯及創作成文。

Terry Tian：

MTR首席營銷官，新零售專家，10年奢侈品零售管理運營及大客戶維護經驗，先後服務過Hermes，LVMH，Tiffany，Chanel等頂級奢華品牌。